Effect of two separate fibre feed systems in rotor spinning on yarn properties

Opening of the fibres in all industrial rotor spinning units is being done by an opening roller, which intakes the fibres from one feed point. Increasing number of feed rollers from one to two may improve fibre opening on the opening roller by gradual loading of the opening roller, which may improve fibre orientation in the final yarn and yarn properties. In this research a modified SE-8 rotor spinning unit of Suessen was used in which two separate fibre feed systems were employed. Raw material used was 38 mm, 1.7 den viscose fibre, to spin a 40 tex yarn. Yarn properties produced with this unit, were compared with that of the original yarn. Yarn properties tested were tenacity, extension, work of rupture, mass irregularity and imperfections, abrasion resistance and hairiness, which were measured on Shirley (SDL) and keisokki yarn testing machines. Test results were analyzed by ANOVA for any difference between the means, and Tukey and Duncan for classification and ranking of the yarn properties. Test results showed that, tenacity, extension and work of rupture of the modified yarn increased in comparison to the original yarn. Its mass irregularity, number of thin places and neps, and hairiness decreased. Number of thick places and yarn abrasion didn’t change. According to the test results, it was concluded that increasing the number of feed rollers on the opening roller from one to two has improved yarn properties.     

A theoretical investigation on the generation of strength in staple yarns

In this article, an attempt has been made to explain the failure mechanism of spun yarns. The mechanism includes the aspects of generation and distribution of forces on a fibre under the tensile loading of a yarn, the free body diagram of forces, the conditions for gripping and slipping of a fibre, and the initiation, propagation, and ultimate yarn rupture in its weakest link. A simple mathematical model for the tenacity of spun yarns has been proposed. The model is based on the translation of fibre bundle tenacity into the yarn tenacity.     

Evaluation of flax accessions for high value textile end uses

Due to recent changes in EC subsidies for flax cultivation it has been difficult to grow short fibre flax profitably in the UK. The Texflax project aimed to demonstrate that high quality flax fibre can be produced and processed on short fibre cotton spinning systems. Initially 92 flax accessions were cultivated on test sites in the UK over three growing seasons to explore the range of fibre diameter found in fibre flax. The efficacy of applying a translocating herbicide at different stages of plant maturity for optimum fine fibre production was explored. A range of factors indicated that application at the midpoint of flowering stage is favourable for the desiccation of flax and onset of retting. Fibre was caustic extracted using a laboratory method developed at De Montfort University, and fibre evaluated in terms of diameter, length, consistency and cleanliness. At the end of the project five accessions from the original 92 were chosen as producing optimal quality fibre suitable for high value textile end uses. Improved agronomy and subsequent processing enabled yarns with a 50:50 cotton:flax blend to be spun at 26 N m yarn count, the normal blend ratio for this count being 70:30. The yarn properties show an improvement when compared to standard products and finer quality fabrics have been prepared using the yarns.     

Effect of opening roller speed, drums speed difference and suction air pressure on properties of open-end friction spun polyester and acrylic yarns

The present paper is concerned with the influence of opening roller speed, drum speed difference and suction air pressure on properties of polyester and acrylic open-end friction spun yarns. The results shows that the opening roller speed and the suction air pressure have considerable influence on the characteristics of polyester and acrylic open-end friction spun yarns. In case of polyester yarns the unevenness, imperfection and hairiness decreases and the yarn tenacity increases with the increase in opening roller speed and suction air pressure. However for acrylic yarns the unevenness and imperfections decreases and tenacity increases with the increase in opening roller speed and suction air pressure.     

A new approach of prediction of yarn diameter

In the present study, an attempt has been made to obtain the relationships for prediction of yarn diameter from different fibers and spinning technologies. The Peirce formula is found to give high deviation from the observed values of yarn diameter because it does not take the effect of twist, type of fibre and spinning technology into consideration. A new empirical model has been proposed that takes into account the parameters affecting the yarn diameter to a great extent, namely yarn twist, spinning technology and type of fibre in calculating the yarn diameter. The spinning technology, type of fibre and the proportion of fibre in the yarn have significant effect on yarn diameter. The proposed model is able to predict the yarn diameter more accurately.     

Effect of bio-friendly conditioning agents on jute fibre spinning

From early times, jute fibre has been generally conditioned for easy spinning by adding oil and water in the form of an emulsion. The commonly used oil consists of C₁₂–C₃₁ fractions of mineral oil that sometimes impart different intensities of oily (kerosene) or fishy smell to the end product. In the present work, efforts have been made to find a suitable sustainable substitute of mineral oil based conditioning agent for spinning of jute yarn and for this, three types of vegetable oil (rice bran oil, palmolein oil and castor oil), a silicone emulsion, a mixed enzyme system and glycerine have been used separately or in combinations as conditioning agents for jute fibre before its mechanical processing for making yarn in jute spinning machines. Considering comparable mechanical process performance for spinning of jute fibre (viz., fibre loss as droppings during processing, moisture retention prior to spinning stage and spinning end breakage rate), tensile properties of yarn, and lower yarn hairiness, it may be suggested to use 2.5% castor oil alone, or 2% castor oil in combination with 0.1–0.5% glycerine in the form of oil-in-water emulsion as the most suitable alternatives to conventional mineral oil-based jute conditioning agent to spin ordinary jute yarn.     

Yarn engineering using hybrid artificial neural network-genetic algorithm model

This work aims to manufacture cotton yarns with requisite quality by choice of suitable raw materials for a given spinning system. To fulfill this aim, a hybrid model based on Artificial Neural Network (ANN) and Genetic Algorithm (GA) has been developed which captures both the high prediction power of ANN and global solution searching ability of GA. In an attempt to achieve a yarn having predefined tenacity and evenness, a constrained optimization problem is formulated with the ANN input-output relation between fibre and yarn properties. GA has been used to solve the optimization problem by searching the best combination of fibre properties that can translate into reality a yarn with the desired quality. The model is capable in identifying the set of fibre properties that gives requisite yarn quality with reasonable degree of accuracy.     

Study on the packing density of structurally modified ring spun yarn

Fibres being the structural unit of a yarn, its nature, composition and arrangement can influence structure and properties. The performance of yarn changes with arrangement of its constituent fibres. Arrangement of fibres in a yarn being system specific, different spinning system results different arrangement of fibres causing variation in product performance. A change in the arrangement of fibres in an already formed yarn can be brought about by suitable physical and/or chemical treatment. A treatment to remove a component is expected to cause changes in final arrangement of fibres in a yarn. In the present study, polyester/PVA blended yarn was modified through dissolution of the later component. The resultant change in structural arrangement on dissolution was assessed by the change in radial packing distribution of fibres. Migration index, helped in identifying the location that was influenced more in the redistribution. In the parent yarn, PVA had a preferential tendency to predominate near the core. On dissolution of PVA, creation of open space was expected and collapsing of the structure led to a possible rearrangement of fibres and reduction in diameter of yarn. Fibre denier, blend ratio and twist factor were also found to influence packing density both in parent and modified yarn. Unlike published reports, interestingly, an increase in fibre packing density was observed on dissolution of PVA. Average packing density in parent yarn was found to lie at a yarn radius between 0.07 mm to 0.09 mm while for the modified yarn it was between 0.05 mm to 0.07 mm.     

Studies on structural integrity of polyester-cotton friction spun yarn by cycling extension test

Yarns and fabrics are subjected to a low level of stresses or strains of repetitive nature in processing and actual use which leads to breakage, permanent deformation, bagging and loss of useful life of the product. The ability of the spun yarns and fabrics to withstand such stresses depends upon their structural integrity. A structurally rigid yarn (i.e. yarns in which fibres are tightly bound) would behave more like an elastic solid and consume more energy during deformation as the constituent fibres have to be deformed. Once the strain is released, the recovered energy will also be more. On the other hand if the structural integrity of the same yarn is poor, fibres would easily slip during deformation and would consume much less energy. The recoverable energy also will be much less. The present investigation reports on the structural integrity of friction spun yarns in terms of energy loss or decay by employing cyclic extension test. It has been observed that friction spun yarns in which the core is immediately wrapped by long and strong polyester fibre layer make the structure strongest as polyester is expected to form tight wrappings. The decay in deformation energies during extension cycling depends upon sheath structure i.e. its composition and location of constituent fibres in sheath layers. With increase in core fibre %, the decay has been found to increase. However, the decay values discriminate more between core% differences than between sheath fibre layer arrangements.     

Impact of yarn extension on packing density of ring spun yarn

The present paper deals with a detailed study on the effect of progressive yarn extension on diameter, overall packing fraction, radial packing fraction at different radial positions and partial packing fraction at different segments along the length of a fibre. An image processing based system to characterize and visualize the configuration of fibers in yarn in extended mode has been adopted. It has been observed that with the increase of yarn extension at different intervals, yarn diameter continuously decreases but at different yarn extension intervals, the percentage decrease value in the yarn diameter is different. But the packing density of yarn does not follow the exact trend of yarn diameter with the extension of yarn at different intervals. The yarn packing density initially increases at very high rate, then at very low rate and finally the packing density of yarn rather slightly decreases with the increase in yarn extension. The radial packing density of the yarn is not uniform across the cross-section of the yarn and it is not maximum near the yarn axis, rather it is maximum at some distance from the yarn axis. The location of maximum radial packing densities of yarn changes with the yarn extension. The partial packing density along the length of yarn is not uniform and the results are equally applicable for all level of yarn extension.     

Prediction of strength and weavability of blended spun yarns

In this paper, we report on predicting the strength of polyester/viscose spun yarns made on ring, rotor and air-jet spinning systems. A system has been developed to measure the weavability of yarns. Hamburger’s fibre bundle theory is modified to predict the strength of blended yarns from the strengths of single-fibre component yarns. The modified model predicts blended yarn strength more accurately than the original Hamburger’s model emphasizing the importance of yarn structure on blended yarn strength. The weavability of blended yarns is measured on a CTT instrument incorporating a shedding device which addresses the stresses viz., cycle extension, flex abrasion and beat up occur during weaving. The measured weavability compared well with that obtained on a commercial Sulzer Ruti Reutlingen Webtester. Yarn structure and strength and cohesion of fibres affect the strength and weavability of yarns.     

Examining the effects of balloon control ring on ring spinning

The ring spinning process has been used to produce fine and high quality staple fibre yarns. The stability of the rotating yarn loop (i.e. balloon) between the yarn-guide and the traveller-ring is crucial to the success and economics of this process. Balloon control rings are used to contain the yarn-loop, by reducing the yarn tension and decreasing the balloon flutter instability. Flutter instability here refers to the uncontrolled changes in a ballooning yarn under dynamic forces, including the air drag. Due to the significant variation in the length and radius of the balloon during the bobbin filling process, the optimal location for the balloon control ring is not easily determined. In order to address this difficulty, this study investigates the variation in the radius of a free balloon and examines the effect of balloon control rings of various diameters at different locations on yarn tension and balloon flutter stability. The results indicate that the maximum radius of a free balloon and its corresponding position depend not only on the yarn-length to balloon-height ratio, but also on yarn type and count. A control ring of suitable radius and position can significantly reduce yarn tension and decrease flutter instability of free single-loop balloons. While the balloon control rings are usually fixed to, and move in sinc with, the ring frame, results reported in this study suggest that theoretically, a balloon control ring that always remains approximately half way between the yarn-guide and the ring rail during spinning can lead to significant reduction in yarn tension.     

Effect of fibre cross-sectional shape on the properties of POY continuous filaments yarns

There are various structural parameters (number of filament, cross-sectional shape, linear density, etc.) determined during the production of synthetic fibre and these parameters influence product features. Among these parameters, cross-sectional shape of fibres has a significant importance. Desired features can be added to the products by varying the cross-sectional shape and in this way; new products with improved features or with high added value can be produced. As a consequence, studies on this subject have increased recently. In this study, the effects of different cross-sectional shapes and yarn linear density on the features of polyester partially oriented yarn (POY) have been investigated. Five different cross-sectional shapes named round, trilobal, tetra, hexsa and octolobal and two different linear densities have been used in the study. Tenacity-elongation and unevenness tests have been applied onto yarns. As a result of the study, it was seen that round, tetra and octolobal cross-sectional shapes lead to production of yarn with high tenacity and breaking elongation while trilobal and hexsa leads to production of yarn with low tenacity. In addition, due to its deep-channelled structure, hexsa crosssectional shape led to POY yarn structure with a high unevenness rate. It was also seen that an increase in the rate of linear density decreased the tenacity and breaking elongation rates of yarn and reduced POY unevenness.     

Porosity and capillarity of weft knitted spacer structures

A geometrical model of weft knitted spacer structures made with mono-filament yarn has been analysed to understand the spacer yarn path. Theoretical models have been created to predict the porosity and the radius of the capillaries of a knitted spacer structure depending on their geometrical parameters, such as course spacing, wale spacing, stitch length, fabric thickness, count of yarn and fibre density. Polyester knitted spacer fabrics were produced with different parameters; their porosity was determined by measuring the weight and compared with the theoretical porosity. The validity of the model was confirmed by experimental results. The porosity of knitted spacer structures made out of mono-filament yarn can be maintained above a certain level by adjusting the fabric parameters such as fabric thickness, course spacing and wale spacing.     

A study on coarse Hanji yarn manufacturing and properties of the Hanji fabric

Hanji (Korean traditional paper) yarn displays excellent humidity control, air permeability, and absorbency as well as pleasantness to the touch due to its structural characteristics, and thus, it has been developed as a new eco-friendly fibrous materials. In this study, Hanji, having a basis weight of 8 and 10 g/m², was prepared using mulberry fibers. The prepared Hanji was cut into Hanji tape of 5–10 mm in width using a rotary slitter and then the tape was twisted to manufacture Hanji yarn. To ensure a uniform twist of Hanji yarn and a smooth twisting process, a water supply system was designed to provide water directly at the twisting zone. At a fixed spindle speed, the feeding speed of the delivery roller was varied to provide different twist numbers for the Hanji yarn. The Hanji yarn manufactured with water treatment has higher tensile properties and a softer touch than the Hanji yarn prepared without water treatment. The Hanji yarns have count numbers of 7–11 Ne and tensile strengths of 1.0–1.2 gf/d. Moreover, the fabric from Hanji yarn shows an excellent color fastness of 4.0 grade, staining of 4–5 to washing, and 4–5 grade to dry cleaning.     

Effect of chemical softening of coconut fibres on structure and properties of its blended yarn with jute

Coconut fibres were subjected to chemical treatment to obtain softer and finer fibres, suitable to blend with other finer fibre like jute. The chemical softening recipe was optimized using Box-Behnken design of experiments as 40 % Na₂S, 10 % NaOH and 6 % Na₂CO₃, which notably reduced the fineness (33 %) and flexural rigidity (74 %) and improved tensile property of coconut fibre. Effect of softening of coconut fibre on its process performance was studied in high speed mechanized spinning system at different blend ratios with jute. Blending with jute assists in spinning of coconut fibre to produce yarn of 520 tex at production rate of 5-6 kg/h, as compared to 15 kg/day for hand spun 5300 tex raw coconut fibre yarn in manual system. Analysis of blended yarn structure in terms of packing density, radial distribution of fiber components (SEM) and mass irregularity were investigated. SEM shows yarns made from softened coconut fibre -jute blends are more compact than raw coconut fibre -jute blend yarns. Coconut fibres were preferentially migrated to core of the yarn. Major yarn properties viz., tensile strength, and flexural rigidity of raw and chemically softened blended yarns were compared against their finest possible 100 % coconut fibre yarn properties. Yarn made up to 50:50 chemically softened coconut fibre-jute blend showed much better spinning performance, and having superior property in terms of reduced diameter, higher compactness, strength, initial modulus and less flexural rigidity than 100 % raw, 100 % chemically softened coconut fibre rope, and raw coconut fibre-jute blend yarns.     

Changing porosity of knitted structures by changing tightness

A geometrical model of plain knitted structures is discussed in depth to understand the yarn path in a knitted loop. A theoretical model has been created to predict the porosity of a knitted structure depending on the geometrical parameters, such as course spacing, wale spacing, stitch length, fabric thickness, count of yarn and fibre density. Polyester and nylon plain knitted fabrics were produced to different tightness, and porosity was determined by measuring the weight. The validity of the model was confirmed by experimental results, using different plain knit fabrics. The porosity of a knitted structure can be changed by reducing the yarn thickness and the stitch length; however this would influence the courses and wales per unit length in the structure.     

Optimum drafting conditions of bamboo charcoal-modified fiber blended yarn obtained by drafting behavior analysis

In this work, the effect of optimum drafting condition on the drafting behavior and yarn quality of the bamboo charcoal-modified fiber blended spun yarns were studied. We measured the drafting force and drafting force variance, CV% of the bamboo charcoal-modified Polyester/Cotton (BCP/C) blended roving and bamboo charcoal-modified Rayon/Cotton (BCR/C) blended roving to examine the influence of the roller gauge and drafting ratio on drafting behavior and yarn quality. We understand that the drafting force of the bamboo charcoal-modified fiber blended roving follow the same trend as that for the regular P/C and R/C blend roving. However, the drafting force presents some difference in characteristics between these bamboo charcoal-modified fiber blended rovings. To correlate the drafting force variation, CV% and the bamboo charcoal-modified fiber blended spun yarn properties, we evaluated the yarn quality and investigate the yarn quality index in conjunction with the break drafting ratio. Therefore, in this work, we can obtain the best optimum drafting conditions for bamboo charcoal-modified fiber blended spun yarns; for the 19.7 tex of BCP70/C30 blend spun yarn was under the roller gauge of 54 mm at the draft ratio of 1.3, whereas, for the 19.7 tex of BCR40/C60 blend spun yarn was under the roller gauge of 54 mm at the draft ratio of 1.2.     

Influence of the growth stage of industrial hemp on chemical and physical properties of the fibres

Fibre damages by the decortication process have to be avoided to achieve high quality of hemp fibres (Cannabis sativa L.) for industrial use. In addition, a well-defined separation of the single fibres by the subsequent degumming process is required. The objective of the present study is to determine the growth stage at which bark and shives can be separated from unretted industrial hemp (variety ‘Kompolti’) with as little fibre damage as possible. Furthermore, the chemical composition of the bark and the molecular weight of fibre cellulose have been analysed to estimate the fibre quality that can be achieved after a degumming process. For this, the fibres have been extracted by a standardised chemical degumming process. The investigations were carried out at nine growth stages of the plants reaching from vegetative stages to senescence. Considering only the mechanical decortication of green dry stems without degumming of the bark, the results reveal that a harvest time at the beginning of seed maturity leads to easier decortication without any effect on the tensile strength of the bast. For decortication of fresh stems including a subsequent degumming process, a harvest after the flowering of the male plants results in fibre losses during decortication and to fibres of reduced fineness.     

The environmental impacts of the production of hemp and flax textile yarn

This study aimed to quantify major environmental impacts associated with the production of hemp yarn using Life Cycle Analysis (LCA). A reference scenario of traditional hemp warm water retting was compared to: (1) bio-retting, i.e. hemp green scutching followed by water retting, (2) babyhemp, based on stand retting of pre-mature hemp, (3) dew retting of flax. Overall, neither of the alternative scenarios was unambiguously better than the reference. The impacts of the hemp reference scenario and the flax scenario were similar, except for pesticide use (higher for flax) and water use during processing (higher for hemp). Bio-retting had higher impacts than the reference scenario for climate change and energy use, due to higher energy input in fibre processing. Babyhemp had higher impacts than the reference scenario for eutrophication, land occupation and pesticide use. A reduction of the environmental impacts of hemp yarn should give priority to reduction of energy use in the fibre processing and yarn production stages and to reduction of eutrophication in the crop production phase.