Evaluation of flax accessions for high value textile end uses |
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| Authors: | Jane Harwood Paul McCormick Dennis Waldron Romano Bonadei |
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| Institution: | 1. TEAM Research Group, Room 3.32 Gateway House, De Montfort University, The Gateway, Leicester LE1 9BH, UK;2. Filartex SpA, Via Firenze, I-25030, S. Pancrazio, Brescia, Italy;1. Uganda Industrial Research Institute, Technology Development Centre, P.O Box 7086, Kampala, Uganda;2. University of Georgia, College of Engineering, Driftmier Engineering Center, Athens, GA 30602, USA;3. Makerere University, College of Agricultural & Environmental Sciences, School of Food Technology, Nutrition & Bioengineering, P.O. Box 7062, Kampala, Uganda;1. Department of Electrical Engineering, Indian Institute of Engineering Science and Technology, Shibpur, Howrah 711 103, WB, India;2. Mechanical Processing Division, National Institute of Research on Jute and Allied Fibre Technology (ICAR), 12, Regent Park, Kolkata 700 040, WB, India;1. School of Aerospace Engineering and Applied Mechanics, Tongji University, Shanghai 200092, China;2. Graduate School of Advanced Technology and Science, Tokushima University, 2-1 Minamijosanjima-cho, Tokushima 770-8506, Japan;3. Graduate School of Science and Technology, Tokushima University, 2-1 Minamijosanjima-cho, Tokushima 770-8506, Japan;4. School of Chemical Sciences, The University of Auckland, Auckland 1142, New Zealand;1. Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, The University of Auckland, Auckland Mail Centre, Private Bag 92019, Auckland 1142, New Zealand;2. Department of Mechanical Engineering, The University of Auckland, Auckland Mail Centre, Private Bag 92019, Auckland 1142, New Zealand;1. Department of Chemistry and Industrial Chemistry, University of Genoa, Via Dodecaneso 31, 16146 Genoa, Italy;2. Department of Chemistry, University of Milan, Via Golgi 19, 20133 Milano, Italy;3. Department of Food Technology, Faculty of Agro-Industry, Prince of Songkla University, Hat Yai, Songkhla 90112, Thailand;4. Department of Pharmacy, University of Genoa, Via Brigata Salerno 13, 16147 Genoa, Italy;5. Italian Biocatalysis Center, Viale Taramelli 12, I-27100 Pavia, Italy;6. Department of Biology and Biotechnology “L. Spallanzani”, University of Pavia, Via Ferrata 9, 27100 Pavia, Italy |
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| Abstract: | Due to recent changes in EC subsidies for flax cultivation it has been difficult to grow short fibre flax profitably in the UK. The Texflax project aimed to demonstrate that high quality flax fibre can be produced and processed on short fibre cotton spinning systems. Initially 92 flax accessions were cultivated on test sites in the UK over three growing seasons to explore the range of fibre diameter found in fibre flax. The efficacy of applying a translocating herbicide at different stages of plant maturity for optimum fine fibre production was explored. A range of factors indicated that application at the midpoint of flowering stage is favourable for the desiccation of flax and onset of retting. Fibre was caustic extracted using a laboratory method developed at De Montfort University, and fibre evaluated in terms of diameter, length, consistency and cleanliness. At the end of the project five accessions from the original 92 were chosen as producing optimal quality fibre suitable for high value textile end uses. Improved agronomy and subsequent processing enabled yarns with a 50:50 cotton:flax blend to be spun at 26 N m yarn count, the normal blend ratio for this count being 70:30. The yarn properties show an improvement when compared to standard products and finer quality fabrics have been prepared using the yarns. |
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