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Evaluation of wheat and emmer varieties for artisanal baking,pasta making,and sensory quality
Institution:1. Cornell University, Plant Breeding and Genetics Section, School of Integrative Plant Science, 240 Emerson Hall, Ithaca, NY 14853, USA;2. Organic Growers'' Research and Information-Sharing Network, 1124 County Rd 38, Bainbridge, NY 13733, USA;3. Greenmarket, GrowNYC, 100 Gold Street, Suite 3300, New York, NY 10038, USA;4. Gimme! Coffee, 506 West State Street, Ithaca, NY 14850, USA;5. King Arthur Flour, 135 US Route 5 South, Norwich, VT 05055, USA;6. Bread Alone Bakery, 2121 Ulster Avenue, Lake Katrine, NY 12449, USA;7. Wide Awake Bakery, 4361 Buck Hill Rd. S., Trumansburg, NY 14886, USA;8. Gramercy Tavern, 42 E. 20th Street, New York, NY 10003, USA;9. Pennsylvania State University, Department of Plant Science, College of Agricultural Sciences, 407 Agricultural Sciences and Industries Building, University Park, PA 16802, USA;10. North Dakota State University, Carrington Research and Extension Center, 663 Hwy. 281 NE, PO Box 219, Carrington, ND 58421, USA;11. University of Wisconsin-Madison, Department of Horticulture, 1575 Linden Drive, Madison, WI 53706, USA
Abstract:Identifying varieties best suited to local food systems requires a comprehensive understanding of varietal performance from field to fork. After conducting four years of field trials to test which varieties of ancient, heritage, and modern wheat grow best on organically managed land, we screened a subset of varieties for bread, pastry, pasta, and cooked grain quality. The varieties evaluated were three lines of emmer (T. turgidum L. ssp. dicoccum Schrank ex Schübl) and eleven lines of common wheat (Triticum aestivum L.), including two modern soft wheat varieties, four soft heritage wheat varieties, four hard modern wheat varieties, and one hard heritage wheat variety. A diverse group of bakers, chefs, researchers, and consumers compared varieties for qualities of interest to regional markets. Participants assessed differences in sensory profiles, pasta making ability, and baking quality for sourdough, matzah crackers, yeast bread, and shortbread cookies. In addition to detecting significant differences among varieties for pasta, sourdough, and pastry quality, participants documented variation in texture and flavor for the evaluated products. By demonstrating which varieties perform best in the field, in the bakery, and on our taste buds, these results can support recommendations that strengthen the revival of local grain economies.
Keywords:Wheat  Variety evaluation  Sensory analysis  Baking quality
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