利用大口黑鲈加工上海熏鱼的工艺及风味特点

上海熏鱼是以青鱼或草鱼为原料，经过浸渍和油爆过程制作出的传统中式菜肴。为解决青鱼养殖量下降和草鱼肌间刺多、土腥味重的问题，弥补加工上海熏鱼的不足，以大口黑鲈替代草鱼制作上海熏鱼，采用单因素试验设计和正交试验设计改良上海熏鱼的加工工艺，采用顶空固相微萃取-气相色谱-质谱法（SPME-GC-MS）分别测定油爆后的上海熏鱼、用不含香辛料的油爆后浸渍液处理的上海熏鱼及上海熏鱼成品中的挥发性风味活性物质,通过GC-MS的定性定量分析得出上海熏鱼的主要风味化合物，采用高效液相色谱法(HPLC)测定呈味核苷酸。结果表明，优化工艺参数为油爆时间6 min，油爆后浸渍液中酱油∶白砂糖=4∶3（鱼块质量的20%∶15%）。3个样品中的挥发性化合物分别有37、47和55种，其中醛酮类、醇类、烃类、芳香类和含氮含硫类物质是上海熏鱼的主要风味化合物。肌苷酸是主要鲜味核苷酸。研究表明，高温油爆过程中发生的美拉德反应、热降解、脂肪酸氧化有助于去除鱼腥味，形成上海熏鱼的特色风味。浸渍和油爆是提高鱼肉制品品质的优良加工工艺。

Processing technology and flavor characteristics of Shanghai smoked fish (Micropterus salmoides)

Shanghai smoked fish is a traditional Chinese dish with crispy crust, delicious taste and rich nutrition, belonging to Shanghai cuisine. Traditional Shanghai smoked fish uses Mylopharyngodon piceus or Ctenopharyngodon idella as raw materials. In recent years, the amount of M. piceus farmed has declined, C. idella is a typical herbivorous fish with a strong earthy smell, and both M. piceus and C. idella have intermuscular spines, which is not convenient for the elderly and children to eat.. Micropterus salmoides with abundantly nutritional values is an omnivorous freshwater bass with meat as the main food. The earthy smell of M. salmoides is lighter than that of M. piceus and C. idella. The meat of M. salmoides is tender and has no intermuscular spines, also its mouthfeel and flavor are better than C. idella, which is popular among the public. In this experiment, on the basis of the original technology, better raw materials were selected to develop new processing products for M. salmoides. In order to solve the shortcomings of processing Shanghai smoked fish by M. piceus and C. idella, M. salmoides was used to replace C. idella in processing Shanghai smoked fish. Single factor experimental design and orthogonal experimental design were used to improve the processing technology of Shanghai smoked fish, and the optimized technological parameters were obtained. Using headspace solid phase micro-extraction gas chromatography-mass(SPME-GC-MS) spectrometry to analyze the changes of volatile flavor active substances in deep-fried Shanghai smoked fish, Shanghai smoked fish with no spices in the fried soaking liquor and Shanghai smoked fish (final product), key volatile compounds were detected by qualitative and quantitative analysis of gas chromatography-mass spectrometry and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) was used to determine flavor nucleotides. The result shows, better processing method was frying 6 min, soy sauce: white sugar 4:3 (fish quality 20%:15%) in the fried soaking liquor, soaking 16 min in the fried steep operation. The volatile compounds in three samples were 37, 47 and 55. Aldehydes, ketones, alcohols, hydrocarbons, aromatic and nitrogen, sulfur-containing substances were the main flavor compounds of Shanghai smoked fish. IMP was the main umami nucleotide. In conclusion, first soaking, deep-frying, and soaking after frying were the key processes for removing and concealing the earthy smell of freshwater fish. At the same time, the Maillard reaction in the process of frying can increase the aroma of the fish and make cooked dishes with excellent aroma and rich nutrition. The Maillard reaction, thermal degradation and fatty acid oxidation happened in the deep-frying process helped to reduce fishy smell and form the characteristic flavor of Shanghai smoked fish. Soaking and deep-frying are excellent processing methods to improve the quality of fish products.