乌饭树叶色素作为天然染料用于真丝织物的染色试验

为开发适合于真丝织物染色的天然染料及其染色工艺,以乌饭树叶色素作为染料,研究其用于真丝织物染色的性能及染色工艺条件。测试结果表明,乌饭树叶色素的提取液具有良好的热稳定性,在30～100℃范围内的色光稳定性均较好;在酸性至弱酸性条件下具有稳定的颜色,而在中性至碱性条件下随pH值变化溶液显示不同的颜色。通过单因素试验确定最佳染色工艺条件为:染液pH 2～6或7～8,染色温度98℃,染色时间60 min,染液质量浓度60～80 g/L,染色次数1次。采用以上工艺以乌饭树叶色素提取液对真丝织物染色,不需添加其它化学助剂和金属盐,染色方法简单,在染液的2个pH值范围可分别将织物染成固定的颜色,染色后的真丝织物皂洗色牢度均可达到5级,日晒色牢度可达到3～4级,且保持了真丝织物特有的光泽度,因此认为乌饭树叶色素适用于高档真丝内衣的染色。

A Dyeing Experiment of Pure Silk Fabric Using Leaf Pigment of Vaccinium bracteatum as a Natural Dye

For the purpose of exploiting a natural dye and its dyeing technology for pure silk fabric,the leaf pigment of Vaccinium bracteatum was used to test its dyeing capability and dyeing technological condition.The experimental results showed that the leaf pigment extract of Vaccinium bracteatum had good thermal stability,which had good hue stability within the range of 30~100 ℃.The extract had stable color under acid to weak acid condition,but showed different colors with the change of pH value under neutral to alkaline condition.Through single factor experiments,the best dyeing technological condition was set as follows: dye solution’s pH value 2 ~ 6 or 7 ~ 8,dyeing temperature 98 ℃,dyeing duration 60 min,dye concentration 60 ~ 80 g/L,and dyeing times one.Under this technological condition,dyeing of pure silk fabric with leaf pigment extract of Vaccinium bracteatum did not need other chemical auxiliary agents or metallic salts.Nevertheless,the method of dyeing was simple.The fabric could be dyed into a fixed color when the solution’s pH value was at 2 ~ 6 or 7 ~ 8.After dyeing,soap-washed color fastness of the pure silk fabric was both over grade 5 and sun-shined color fastness of it reached grade 3 ~ 4,while maintaining the special gloss of pure silk fabric.Therefore,the leaf pigment of Vaccinium bracteatum is applicable to dye high-end pure silk underclothes.