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An “Orphan” Creative Industry: Exploring the Institutional Factors Constraining the Canadian Fashion Industry 下载免费PDF全文
In recent years, tier‐two fashion countries have been making gains in the global fashion industry, with hip young brands, buzz‐worthy fashion weeks and export‐oriented designers. The Canadian fashion industry, on the other hand, continues to fall behind and instead has experienced recent high‐profile closures of leading domestic fashion names. This paper explores why this is the case by considering a wide range of factors from a historical and institutional perspective. We argue that Canadian fashion is facing a number of systemic problems relating to wider institutional and policy weaknesses, rather than a lack of talent and know‐how within the entrepreneurs and businesses in the sector. While the fashion industry is indeed global, we argue that it is in fact national and local level factors—political, economic, and cultural—that structure and constrain the Canadian fashion industry for independent designers. Through exploring the experiences of this group of actors—entrepreneurial fashion designers—in this particular context, we not only learn about Canada as an economy but also what is needed in order to develop the fashion industry more broadly. We provide a framework for analysing the range of socio‐economic, historical, and political factors at the national level which affect the performance of the fashion sector and the operation of fashion designers as the entrepreneurial actors at the heart of the industry. 相似文献
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Boulanger Yan Arseneault Dominique Boucher Yan Gauthier Sylvie Cyr Dominic Taylor Anthony R. Price David T. Dupuis Sébastien 《Landscape Ecology》2019,34(1):159-174
Landscape Ecology - Forest landscapes at the boreal–temperate ecotone have been extensively altered. Reducing the gap between current and presettlement forest conditions through... 相似文献
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Fractional extraction of compounds from grape seeds by supercritical fluid extraction and analysis for antimicrobial and agrochemical activities 总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3
Palma M Taylor LT Varela RM Cutler SJ Cutler HG 《Journal of agricultural and food chemistry》1999,47(12):5044-5048
White grape seeds were subjected to sequential supercritical fluid extraction. By increasing the polarity of the supercritical fluid using methanol as a modifier of CO(2), it was possible to fractionate the extracted compounds. Two fractions were obtained; the first, which was obtained with pure CO(2), contained mainly fatty acids, aliphatic aldehydes, and sterols. The second fraction, obtained with methanol-modified CO(2), had phenolic compounds, mainly catechin, epicatechin, and gallic acid. The fractions were bioassayed. Antimicrobial activities were checked on human pathogens, and a high degree of activity was obtained with the lipophilic fraction. Agrochemical activities on phytopathogenic fungi and activities on the etiolated wheat coleoptile bioassay were also checked. The more polar fraction was active in the latter bioassay. 相似文献
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Most of the methods available for plant rooting studies in field soil are very tedious and time-consuming. Several investigations have shown that the core-break technique, in which roots are counted that appear at the faces of a broken core of soil, provides acceptable estimates of root length density in some situations. We investigated the usefulness of the core-break technique for evaluating rooting density of four plant species in two soil types. We encountered several problems, but recommend the core-break method to researchers who wish to quantify root development rapidly under various soil tillage practices. 相似文献
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Kurilich AC Clevidence BA Britz SJ Simon PW Novotny JA 《Journal of agricultural and food chemistry》2005,53(16):6537-6542
The bioavailability of acylated vs nonacylated anthocyanins and the effect of cooking and dose on the comparative bioavailability were investigated in a clinical feeding study using purple carrots as the anthocyanin source. Treatments were purple carrots as follows: 250 g raw (463 micromol of anthocyanins: 400 micromol acylated, 63 micromol nonacylated), 250 g cooked (357 micromol of anthocyanins: 308.5 micromol acylated, 48.5 micromol nonacylated), and 500 g cooked (714 micromol of anthocyanins: 617 micromol acylated, 97 micromol nonacylated). Four of the five carrot anthocyanins were found intact in plasma by 30 min after carrot consumption and peaked between 1.5 and 2.5 h. Acylation of anthocyanins resulted in an 11-14-fold decrease in anthocyanin recovery in urine and an 8-10-fold decrease in anthocyanin recovery in plasma. Cooking increased the recovery of nonacylated anthocyanins but not acylated anthocyanins. Large dose size significantly reduced recovery of both acylated and nonacylated anthocyanins, suggesting saturation of absorption mechanisms. 相似文献
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Static equilibrium headspace was diluted with a stream of nitrogen to study the stability of the volatile headspace concentration. The headspace dilution profile of 18 volatile compounds above aqueous and ethanolic solutions was measured in real time using atmospheric pressure chemical ionization-mass spectrometry. Under dynamic conditions the volatiles headspace concentration above water solutions decreased readily upon dilution. The presence of ethanol helped to maintain the volatile headspace concentration when the ethanol solution concentration was above 50 mL/L. This effect was such that under dynamic conditions the absolute volatile concentration above an ethanolic solution was higher than that above an aqueous solution, contrary to results observed in equilibrium studies. The ratio of the headspace concentration of volatiles above ethanolic 120 mL/L and water solutions was correlated to their air/water partition coefficient. 相似文献
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Varroa destructor (Mesostigmata: Varroidae) is arguably the most damaging parasitic mite that attacks honey bees worldwide. Since its initial host switch from the Asian honey bee (Apis cerana) (Hymenoptera: Apidae) to the Western honey bee (Apis mellifera) (Hymenoptera: Apidae), Varroa has become a widely successful invasive species, attacking honey bees on almost every continent where apiculture is practiced. Two haplotypes of V. destructor (Japanese and Korean) parasitize A. mellifera, both of which vector various honey bee-associated viruses. As the population of Varroa grows within a colony in the spring and summer, so do the levels of viral infections. Not surprisingly, high Varroa parasitization impacts bees at the individual level, causing bees to exhibit lower weight, decreased learning capacity, and shorter lifespan. High levels of Varroa infestation can lead to colony-wide varroosis and eventually colony death, especially when no control measures are taken against the mites. Varroa has become a successful parasite of A. mellifera because of its ability to reproduce within both drone cells and worker cells, which allows populations to expand rapidly. Varroa uses several chemical cues to complete its life cycle, many of which remain understudied and should be further explored. Given the growing reports of pesticide resistance by Varroa in several countries, a better understanding of the mite’s basic biology is needed to find alternative pest management strategies. This review focuses on the genetics, behavior, and chemical ecology of V. destructor within A. mellifera colonies, and points to areas of research that should be exploited to better control this pervasive honey bee enemy. 相似文献