Effects of bending properties and drapability on the hand and appearance of wool-blended Fabrics: Comparison of real clothing with online and 3D virtual garments

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of bending properties and drapability on the hand and appearance of wool-blended fabrics for comparison of real clothing with online and 3D virtual garments. Objective evaluations were performed by measuring mechanical properties of fabrics, while subjective evaluations were performed by subjects evaluating sensory images of fabrics; real clothing evaluations were performed offline and online, and 3D virtual garments were evaluated. Bending properties and drape coefficients of fabrics were affected by wool blending ratio, and fabrics with high wool blending ratio showed low stiffness, warm-cool, weight, and high smoothness, drapability image. In the real clothing evaluation, stiffness image showed many differences with online evaluation with respect to wool blending ratio. Objective bending properties and drape coefficients showed no correlation with subjective sensory images offline. For the online results, objective mechanical properties had good correlations with all sensory images except smoothness. Stiffness and warm-cool online scores were higher than the offline ones and the offline drapability was higher than the online one for 100 % wool fabrics. Thus, clothing was generally evaluated online as more hard and moist than real clothing. For the virtual garment evaluation, sensory images had no difference according to wool blending ratio compared with real clothing. Many differences in subjective sensory images between real clothing and virtual garments were observed, except for smoothness and weight images. The results showed that it is difficult to exactly predict the hand and appearance of clothing according to fabric properties using 3D virtual garment system.     

Drape simulation of three-dimensional virtual garment enabling fabric properties

This study analyzes how the silhouette of virtual garments applied to virtual avatars is altered according to various virtual fabric properties. This study measures the properties of real fabrics that include a charmeuse (#F1) and gabardine (#F2) using the Fabric Analysis by Simple Testing system; in addition, the material properties of different real fabrics were applied to that of the virtual fabric. It then evaluates the drape stiffness and silhouette of the virtual garments according to the different fabrics. This study also compared the virtual garment silhouette of sample fabric #F1-S that changed only the stretch property of the sample fabric #F1 with the virtual garment silhouette of sample fabric #F1. The results show that the fabric properties including bend, thickness, weight, stretch, shear values affect the drape stiffness, silhouette, and fit of the virtual garment simulated on virtual avatars and may be used for the realistic virtual garment technology.     

Effects of loom characteristics on the physical properties of PET fabrics for emotional clothing

The fabric defects complained by garment manufacturers are stop marks, streaky phenomena on the warp direction, thickness variation and color differences between edges on the right and left sides of the fabrics, which are partly due to the tension variation of warp and weft directions. It is well known that these defects are related to the difference of fabric mechanical property according to the loom characteristics and fabric position such as center and both edges parts of the fabric, which affect garment formability and wearing performance of garment. This research is focusing about which factor is dominant for the difference of fabric mechanical properties which affects garment formability and wearing performance between loom characteristic factor and fabric position factor such as center and both edges of the fabric, which is affected by warp and weft tensions. For this purpose, two kinds of looms were selected, and warp and weft tensions during weaving were measured and the mechanical properties of the fabrics woven by two kinds of looms such as tensile, bending, shear, compression and surface properties were also measured according to the positions such as center and both edge parts of the fabric. These fabric mechanical properties were examined with warp and weft tensions according to the looms and were also analyzed according to the positions of the fabric woven by two kinds of looms. The warp tension on the vicinity of center parts of the looms was much higher than those on the vicinity of both edges of looms. It revealed that the warp tension difference makes differences of fabric mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shear and surface properties except compressional property. And the differences of these mechanical properties according to the fabric positions and looms seem to make homogeneity of the fabric hand and tailorability of garment deteriorating.     

Fast garment drape simulation using geometrically constrained particle system

A simulation system for versatile garment drape has been developed. Using this system, the shape of a garment can be simulated in consideration of fabric physical properties as well as the interaction between fabrics and other objects. Each fabric piece in a garment is modeled using a geometrically constrained particle system and its behavior is calculated from an implicit numerical integration algorithm in a relatively short time. The system consists of three modules including a preprocessor for the preparation of fabric patterns and external objects, a postprocessor for the results of three-dimensional visualization, and a drape simulation engine. It can be used for the design process of textile goods, garments, furniture, or upholsteries.     

Transport properties of layered fabric systems based on electrospun nanofibers

Layered fabric systems with electrospun polyurethane fiber web layered on spunbonded nonwoven were developed to examine the feasibility of developing protective textile materials as barriers to liquid penetration using electrospinning. Barrier performance was evaluated for layered fabric systems, using pesticide mixtures that represent a range of surface tension and viscosity. Air permeability and water vapor transmission were assessed as indications of thermal comfort performance. Protection performance and air/moisture vapor transport properties were compared for layered fabric systems and existing materials for personal protective equipment (PPE). Layered fabric systems with electrospun nanofiber web showed barrier performance in the range between microporous materials and nonwovens used for protective clothing. Layered fabric structures with the web area density of 1.0 and 2.0 g/m² exhibited air permeability higher than most PPE materials currently in use; moisture vapor transport was in a range comparable to nonwovens and typical woven work clothing fabrics. Comparisons of layered fabric systems and currently available PPE materials indicate that barrier/transport properties that may not be attainable with existing PPE materials could be achieved from layered fabric systems with electrospun nanofibrous web.     

Investigation on hydrostatic resistance and thermal performance of layered waterproof breathable fabrics

Waterproof breathable layered fabrics allow water vapor passing through, but resist liquid water to pass. This ability of the fabrics to protect rain and snow water while allowing sweat vapor to evaporate from inside to outside atmosphere, leads them to be used as outdoor sportswear or protective clothing. The big challenge of enhanced hydrostatic resistance of these fabrics with proper breathability and thermal comfort has widened the research scope. This study presents an experimental investigation on hydrostatic resistance and thermal behavior of layered waterproof breathable fabrics. Six different types of hydrophobic and hydrophilic membrane laminated layered fabrics were evaluated by varying different fabric parameters in the experiment. Hydrostatic resistance and water vapor permeability of the laminated fabrics were measured by SDL ATLAS Hydrostatic Head Tester and PERMETEST respectively. Thermal properties were evaluated by ALAMBETA instrument. Moreover, FX-3300 air permeability tester was used to measure air permeability which represents the porosity of the fabrics and computer based See System software was used for water contact angle measurement on the outer fabric surface in order to determine the hydrophobic and hydrophilic properties. This experiment clearly discusses the influence of different fabric characteristics and parameters on hydrostatic resistance and thermal properties of the breathable laminated fabrics. The results show that fabric material composition, density, thickness, and hydrophobic and hydrophilic membranes have significant effects on hydrostatic resistance, breathability and thermal properties of different laminated fabrics.     

Handle,fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn woven stretch fabrics

Hybrid yarn was produced by twisting silk with nylon covered lycra yarn. Silk of 20 D in warp and hybrid yarn in weft was woven to develop lustrous woven stretch fabrics for sari blouse. Silk and hybrid yarn fabrics were produced in three different weaves namely plain, crepe and sateen. An in-depth study was carried out to understand the effect of weave on thermal comfort; low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties. Nine blouses (3 samples× 3 figures) were constructed from three different woven stretch materials for fit assessment and objective pressure comfort test. The effect of fabric weave, low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties on fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabrics were analyzed. Sateen weave silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabric shows higher total hand value, stretch properties and better thermal comfort properties. Sateen and crepe weave stretch fabrics provided good fit. Sateen weave fabric exerted lower clothing pressure value in the range of 3-12 mmHg at all body locations in standing position and in different postures.     

Application of artificial neural network (ANN) for prediction of fabrics’ extensibility

In the field of clothing technology, prediction of the fabric properties is very important because the fabric is the basic element of every clothing item. Knowing the fabric properties it is possible to predict fabrics’ behaviour during process of clothing manufacturing (in phase of cutting, sewing and ironing) as well as clothing items’ behaviour during usage. According to the fabrics’ characteristics and model design it is possible to predict appearances of the clothing items and their draping which can be presented with many computer simulations. In this paper extensibility of the fabric which appears during a small forces loading on the fabrics are investigated. Loading of small forces on the fabric appears in each phases of clothing manufacturing processes and during usage of clothing items. Investigations are managed on 50 fabrics which are weaving in twill weave and 100 % wool. The basic characteristics of fabric (density of warp and weft, mass per unit area, thickness) are defined according appropriate standard methods and tensile properties in the warp and weft directions are measured using KES-FB1 measuring system. Using an artificial neural network (ANN) prediction of extensibility properties of the fabrics are done, results are compared with experimental values and deviations are determined. ANN is an adaptive system that changes its structure based on external or internal information that flows through the network during the learning phase. They can be used to model complex relationships between inputs and outputs or to find patterns in data. Based on the implemented investigations, minimal deviations between experimental and predicted values are obtained and can be concluded that ANN can be used for prediction of the fabrics properties.     

Effects of athletic T-shirt designs on thermal comfort

This paper reports on an experimental investigation of the effects of T-shirts design on clothing thermal comfort measured in terms of clothing thermal insulation and moisture vapour resistance. Ten short sleeved T-shirts of varying opening styles and mesh styles were designed and produced for testing on the sweating fabric manikin-Walter. Clothing thermal insulation and moisture vapour resistance of the T-shirts were measured when the manikin simulates walking motion and standing posture. The results showed that, the positions of openings and ventilation panels affects the total thermal insulation and vapour resistance; among the various designs tested, openings applied at two vertical side panels along the side seams can most effectively release heat and moisture from the body.     

Protective performance of thermal protective clothing assemblies exposed to different radiant heat fluxes

Three layered clothing assemblies were constructed from commercial heat protective textile clothing materials for outer, middle and inner layers. Thermal liners, used as middle layer, were prepared from Nomex fibres of two different fineness keeping other parameters constant. Different three layered combinations of fabrics were compared for radiant heat protective performance based on the estimate of burn injury time using Stoll’s curve. Analysis of experimental results showed that characteristics of the outer layer fabric and its interaction with applied heat flux are important factors that affect thermal response of the clothing assemblies. Fineness of the constituent fibres of nonwoven thermal liner was found to significantly affect the protective performance. Thermal properties, porosity, optical properties of the clothing layers found to affect heat protection provided by clothing assembly.     

Effect of enzyme treatment and wood pulp variation on physical characteristics and fabric hand of lyocell fabrics

The purpose of the research was to examine the effect of three different levels of enzyme treatment on the physical characteristics and the end-use suitability of the lyocell fabrics made with four different types of commercial wood pulp. The appropriate enzyme concentration for obtaining an optimum as well as consistent physical characteristics and fabric hand trait was 3 g/l for the concentration levels tested in the present investigation. Weight loss was more affected by higher enzyme concentration than other physical properties. H2 was least affected by enzyme treatment for all three physical properties and fabric hand. 5 g/l concentration exhibited little difference from 3 g/l in the physical characteristics, whereas the KES-FB values indicated a significant loss of fabric hand in most PHVs with the 5 g/l concentration level. Among different garment parameters, all four fabric types were relatively inappropriate for the men’s slacks (MS) fabric due to the lower hand value of koshi required by the MS parameter. However, despite the relatively low koshi values, high fukurami values required for men’s dress shirt (MWDS) resulted in the highest THV among the four garment parmeters. The four fabric types, which represent the usage of four different wood pulps, in general seem to exhibit a higher applicability to women’s winter thin dress (WWTD) than women’s winter suit (WWS) garment parameter.     

Evaluating the cold protective performance (CPP) of an electrically heated garment (EHG) and a chemically heated garment (CHG) in cold environments

This study investigated the cold protective performance (CPP) of two types of heated garments using a Newton manikin operated in constant temperature mode (CT) and thermoregulatory model control (TMC) mode. The effect of two levels of air velocity (i.e., 0.4±0.1 m/s and 1.0±0.1 m/s) on the CPP was discussed. Five scenarios were chosen, the traditional cold protective ensemble (CON), the electrically heated garment (EHG), the non-heated electrically heated garment (EHG_CON, heating was turned off), the chemically heated garment (CHG) and the non-heated chemically heated garment (CHG_CON) (completely oxidized body warmers were used). All experiments were performed at t _a =2.0±0.3 oC and RH=80±5 %. Results demonstrated that both EHG and CHG could provide improved cold protection compared to the nonheated garments, evidenced by the significantly higher thermal insulation in EHG and CHG at both two air velocities (p<0.01). The air velocity has a minor effect on the effective heating power and the heating efficiency, but it significantly reduced the total clothing thermal insulation. EHG exhibited a significantly higher effective heating power and thermal insulation compared to the CHG only under the low air velocity (p<0.05). Additionally, higher skin temperatures and improved whole body and local thermal sensations were observed in both EHG and CHG compared to CON. The EHG compared to CHG, showed similar thermophysiological and psychological responses at 1.0±0.1 m/s (p>0.05). It was thus anticipated that both two heated garments could improve human wear thermal comfort in cold environments.     

Simulation of the weave structural design of synthetic woven fabrics

This study surveys the basic procedure of data base system of the fabric structural design which can be linked with existing pattern design and garment design CAD systems. For this purpose, the theoretical and empirical equations related to the fabric structural design are analyzed and discussed with various fabric specimens. The fabric structural parameters such as weave density coefficient, cover factor and yarn density coefficient of various kinds of fabrics are calculated using the empirical equations. These calculated fabric structural parameters of many kinds of polyester and nylon fabrics are compared and discussed with weave pattern, and materials such as polyester and nylon. Furthermore the difference between fabric structural parameters calculated by empirical equations are analyzed with polyester and nylon fabrics as a basic study for data base system of the fabric structural design. Finally, the weave density coefficients of polyester and nylon fabrics were analysed and discussed with shrinkages of dyeing and finishing processes, and also surveyed according to the weaving company and weave structural parameters such as weave pattern and denier.     

Formability analysis of worsted woven fabrics considering fabric direction

Over years predicting fabric behaviour during garment manufacturing process was considered by researchers in order to reduce manufacturing problems and achieve high quality products. Fabric formability which is affected by bending and tensile behaviour through the application of small loads is a property which can predict fabric performance precisely. However, this property changes regarding fabric direction and is not constant. In this study, fabric formability is examined for worsted woven fabrics in a more detailed way by evaluating this property in various fabric directions. It was concluded that fabric formability could be expressed as a sinusoidal function of sample orientation towards warp direction. Moreover, studying several weave structures with different weft densities reveals that the less the firmness of fabric construction the more the value of fabric formability which indicates the better adaption of fabric to the exerted deformation.     

3D pattern development of tight-fitting dress for an asymmetrical female manikin

Tight-fitting clothing pattern reflecting the accurate information of the 3D body shape has been one of the challenges for garment industry especially for those who have an abnormal body shape. The objective of the paper is to develop the process of making a final 2D pattern from 3D scanned surface with minimum errors that fit tightly to an asymmetrical female manikin and secondly, to verify the proposed pattern development process from the free drawn design line on the specific 3D body. On the continuum of the previous methodology which provided the precise flattening algorithm on the local 3D surface, total pattern making process was investigated step by step. Final 2D pattern was constructed using non-extensible fabric and the accuracy of the pattern was investigated by shell-shell deviation of original 3D nude and clothed image. Area of each pattern block and corresponding 3D surface block was compared, and the detailed view of the triangle arrangements for the final pattern examined, confirming the topology of the concave and convex surface reflected correctly in the pattern. As results, the accuracy of the tight-fit dress pattern was satisfactory even for the asymmetrical female manikin with prominent curvature.     

Flame-Retardant and Wear Comfort Properties of Modacrylic/FR-Rayon/Anti-static PET Blend Yarns and Their Woven Fabrics for Clothing

This study examined the flame retardant, anti-static, and wear comfort properties of woven fabrics from two types of yarns composed of modacrylic, FR-rayon, cotton, and anti-static PET fibers. The FR-rayon-blended modacrylic fabric mixed with anti-static PET fibers exhibited better flame-retardant and anti-static properties than those of the cotton-blended modacrylic fabric. In addition, the absorption and drying properties of the FR-rayon-blended modacrylic fabric were superior to those of the cotton-blended modacrylic fabric. The thermal conductivity of the FR-rayon-blended fabric was lower than that of the cotton-blended one, whereas the water vapor permeability was slightly higher than that of the cotton-blended one. These wear comfort properties of the FR-rayon-blended fabric were attributed to the micro-pores and longer fiber length of the FR-rayon fibers, as well as their yarn and fabric structural parameters. This study suggests that FR-rayon-blended modacrylic fabric has better flame-retardant and anti-static properties in both twill and rip weaves with good warmth keepability, and higher water and vapor transmission properties than cotton-blended one. In addition, the FR-rayon-blended modacrylic clothing exhibited a better wear comfort feel than the cotton-blended one due to the lower microclimate humidity. This means that FR-rayon-blended modacrylic fabric makes it more comfortable to wear than cotton-blended one.     

Evolution of moisture management behavior of high-wicking 3D warp knitted spacer fabrics

Moisture management behavior is a vital factor in evaluating thermal and physiological comfort of functional textiles. This research work studies functional 3 dimensional (3D) warp knitted spacer fabrics containing high-wicking materials characterized by their profiled cross section. These spacer fabrics can be used for protective vest to absorb a user’s sweat, to reduce the humidity and improve user’s thermal comfort. For this reason, different 3D warp knitted spacer fabrics were produced with functional fiber yarns in the back layer of the fabric (close to the body) and polyester in the front and middle layers (outer surface). Comfort properties such as air and water vapor permeability and wicking and other moisture management properties (MMP) of different fabric samples were measured. It is demonstrated that by using profiled fibers such as Coolmax fiber, moisture management properties of spacer fabrics can be improved, enabling them to be use as a snug-fitting shirt worn under protective vests with improved comfort.     

Study of moisture and thermal transfer properties as a function of the fiber material variation

The properties of moisture transfer and the comfort of mesh-structured fabrics with various knit compositions and properties were investigated. The comfort effects of the double knitted fabrics combined with different cross-shaped fibers composed of dyeable-polypropylene (PPd) and regular polyester (PET) double-knitted fabrics were studied. A series of PET, PPd, Coolmax^® (Cm) with single knitted fabrics and PPd/Cm with double knitted fabrics were evaluated to determine the physical properties and wearing performance for comfortable clothing. To compare the structural properties involving the vapor transfer of 4 types of fabrics with different fiber compositions, fiber types, weights, and thicknesses, the surface structure and pore characteristics were evaluated by scanning electron microscopy and a capillary flow porometer. The properties of moisture transfer were tested using vertical wicking and gravimetric absorbent testing system (GATS). In addition, the comfort performance measured by the thermal insulation value (Rt) and moisture permeability index (im) with a thermal manikin in a conditioned walk-in environmental test chamber was predicted. The result showed that the PPd/Cm sample has potential applications as good comfort fabric materials.     

Garment pattern nesting using image analysis and three-dimensional simulation

A software system has been developed that designs garments made of figured fabrics and arranges the flat patterns on the fabric automatically. A series of image analysis techniques were used to find the repeat unit images of figured fabrics. Three-dimensional garment drape simulation was used to design garments using those repeat unit images as texture maps. Finally, a pattern nesting system was developed to arrange numerous flat garment patterns quickly keeping the continuity of the figures on them. This method could contribute to the increase of the reliability as well as the reduction of production cost by eliminating the unnecessary trial-and-error based processes.     

Muscle activity monitoring with fabric stretch sensors

In this paper, development of a fabric stretch sensor embedded system has been proposed for muscle activity monitoring. It is expected that this product will be proper for monitoring a wide range of human activities mainly due to the characteristics of light-weight and high sensitivity. The fabric sensors developed can be easily attached to almost any types of clothing due to their thin and stretchable natures. The mechanism and performance of the sensors have been characterized by measuring the mechanical and electrical performance along with stretch ratio or strain percent. The data collected would be successfully transmitted to mobile phones through low power consumption BLE connection, and thus muscle activities in real time. As expected, the resultant smart muscle pants could achieve realistic goals through monitoring body movements without any significant loss of wear comforts in normal clothing. This work significantly contributed in enhancing the utility of strain/stretch sensors for development of e-textiles and intended to be a starting point for data collection and analysis of smart fabric embedded sensing technologies.