Integrated graphical presentation of fabric sound and mechanical properties

This paper proposes a new model capable of predicting frictional sounds of woven fabrics, knitted fabrics and vapor permeable water repellent fabrics by measuring the relationships between their sound parameters and mechanical properties. We conducted an experiment in which fabric frictional sounds were recorded and analyzed. A total of 217 specimens consisting of woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, and vapor permeable water repellent fabrics were sampled, and their frictional sounds recorded using a Sound Quality System. Sound parameters of fabrics including SPL (Sound Pressure Level), Loudness (Z), Sharpness (Z), and mechanical properties by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) were obtained. The relation between sound parameters and mechanical properties were analyzed by multiple regressions. Specimens were divided into 3 clusters using mechanical properties selected by stepwise selection method, and the mechanical properties of each cluster were investigated. Specimens were classified into clusters having high level of SPL and Loudness (Z), high level of Sharpness (Z), and middle level of Loudness (Z) and Sharpness (Z), which means that sound parameters are well verified by mechanical properties of the specimens. Mechanical properties relevant to each sound parameter were mapped on two dimensional spaces by integrated graphical presentation. SPL showed high positive correlation coefficients with MMD and LT. Loudness (Z) was well predicted by 2HG5 and Sharpness (Z) by MIU.     

Effect of fabric sound and touch on human subjective sensation

In order to investigate the relationship between subjective sensation for fabric sound and touch and the objective measurements, eight different apparel fabrics were selected as specimens. Sound parameters of fabrics including level pressure of total sound (LPT), level range (ΔL), and frequency differences (Δf) and mechanical properties by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) were obtained. For subjective evaluation, seven aspects of the sound (softness, loudness, pleasantness, sharpness, clearness, roughness, and highness) and eight of the touch (hardness, smoothness, fineness, coolness, pliability, crispness, heaviness, and thickness) were rated using semantic differential scale. Polyester ultrasuede was evaluated to sound softer and more pleasant while polyester taffeta to sound louder and rougher than any other fabrics. Wool fabrics such as worsted and woolen showed similar sensation for sound but differed in some touch sensation in that woolen was coarsest, heaviest, and thickest in touch. In the prediction model for sound sensation, LPT affected postively subjective roughness and highness as well as loudness, whileΔL was found as a parameter related positively with softness and pleasantness. Touch sensation was explained by some of mechanical properties such as surface, compressional, shear, and bending properties implying that a touch sensation could be expressed by a variety of properties.     

Using artificial neural network to predict colour properties of laser-treated 100% cotton fabric

In this paper, artificial neural network (ANN) model was used for predicting colour properties of 100 % cotton fabrics, including colour yield (in terms of K/S value) and CIE L, a, and b values, under the influence of laser engraving process with various combination of laser processing parameters. Variables examined in the ANN model included fibre composition, fabric density (warp and weft direction), mass of fabric, fabric thickness and linear density of yarn (warp and weft direction). The ANN model was compared with a linear regression model where the ANN model produced superior results in prediction of colour properties of laser engraved 100 % cotton fabrics. The relative importance of the examined factors influencing colour properties was also investigated. The analysis revealed that laser processing parameters played an important role in affecting the colour properties of the treated 100 % cotton fabrics.     

A comparative study of finer conventional and modified cotton yarns and their resultant woven fabrics

A modified ring spinning technique has been recently developed by incorporating false twisting devices into the conventional ring frame. Its application on the coarser yarn counts (7–32 Ne) showed notable advantages in modified yarn and fabric performance. More recently, it was noted that this technique can also be applied for producing finer cotton yarns. Thus this paper aims to carry out a systematic study of the physical properties of the finer modified yarns (80 Ne) and woven fabrics with respect to the conventional ones. Physical properties of conventional and modified single yarns were evaluated and compared. These two types of single yarn were used for the production of woven fabrics. Moreover, the above two types of single yarn were also plied and used for the production of woven fabrics under a commercial condition. All woven fabrics were assessed in terms of fabric tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, fabric weight, and air-permeability as well as other fabric performance measured by the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES). Experimental results showed that finer modified yarns and fabrics exhibit higher strength, lower hairiness, and improved abrasion resistance, slightly better compression property, and smoother surface with relatively larger thickness.     

Investigating ballistic impact on fabric targets with gripping yarns

The purpose of the research is to investigate the fabric structure (with gripping yarns) in influencing ballistic performance aiming to improve the ballistic performance of the currently used body armour materials. Thirteen different fabrics having gripping yarn were designed along fabric warp and/or weft directions. Their ballistic performance in terms of energy absorption has been studied and comparisons made among the single layered fabrics and between the two double layered fabrics, as well as to the conventional used a plain woven fabric for both cases. It was found that fabrics with gripping yarns have improved fabric ballistic performance. The inter-jointed two-layer fabric performed better than the un-jointed two-layer fabric, and it showed a 16.6 % increase in the energy absorption. The implication of the research is that body armour can be made lighter without reducing ballistic impact performance by using gripping yarns.     

The effect of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness of polyester fabrics

The effects of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness values of textured polyester woven fabrics with different constructional parameters were investigated. The warp yarn properties (type, count and warp density) were kept constant while the effect of variation in weft yarn density and weave pattern were studied. Measurements were conducted on pre-treated white fabric samples and the results assessed in relation to their constructional properties. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness values of polyester fabrics affected by fabric balance and fabric cover and the effects were related to fabric thickness, yarn densities, yarn crimp, positioning of yarns in fabric structure. A change in weave pattern from sateen to plain increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased the surface roughness. Similarly, an increase in weft density increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased surface roughness. In order to produce fabrics with smooth surface properties yarn density should be increased, yarn float lengths decreased, cover of fabrics increased and fabric balance improved.     

Tear properties and meso-scale mechanism of multi-axial warp-knitted fabric from various architectures: Studied by photography

Tear properties tests of three kinds of multi-axial warp-knitted (MWK) fabric: triaxial fabrics (?45 °/90 °/+45 ° and ?45 °/0 °/+45 °) and biaxial fabric (?45 °/+45 °) were respectively implemented along the orientations of 0 °, 45 ° and 90 °. Load-displacement curves were well obtained. The high-speed camera was employed to observe the whole tear damage process and series of still images were picked up to analyze the meso-scale mechanism of the extension and displacement of tows on oriented layers. The results indicated the tear properties of MWK fabric are closely related to the orientations of the layers and the deformation mechanism of the layers. Stitching yarns incarnated significant effects in restricting the deformation procedures of tows.     

Assessment of the surface roughness of cotton fabrics through different yarn and fabric structural properties

The effects of some yarn properties (i.e. type, count, twist level, ply number, unevenness and crimp) and fabric constructional properties (i.e. cover, thickness and balance) on surface roughness values of cotton woven fabrics were investigated. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness values of fabrics were affected from yarn and fabric properties and the effects were related to fabric balance, fabric cover (not cover factor), fabric thickness and crimp values of yarns in fabric structures. Surface roughness values of fabrics decreased as yarn fineness and yarn twist levels increased but as yarn ply number decreased. Also, surface roughness values gradually decreased from open-end yarn constituting fabrics to combed yarn constituting fabrics. Results showed that different properties of yarns caused changes in yarn crimps in fabric structure and also governed the changes in fabric balance, as well as changes in roughness of fabric surfaces. The changing properties of yarns and impact of these properties on fabric construction affected the formation of cotton fabric surfaces from smooth to coarse.     

Effects of sample dimensions on pull-out properties of woven fabric structures

The aim of this study was to understand the effects of fabric sample dimensions on pull-out properties of fabric weaves. Polyester woven fabrics were used to conduct the pull-out tests. A yarn pull-out fixture was developed and data generated from this research. Yarn pull-out forces depend on sample dimensions, fabric density, fabric weave, and number of pulled ends in the fabric. Results showed that multiple and single yarn pull-out forces of long samples were higher than those of short samples, and the multiple yarn pull-out force was higher than that of the single yarn pull-out force, and dense fabric has high pull-out force. Plain fabric weave showed high single and multiple pull-out forces compared to ribs and satin fabric weaves. The regression model could be used in this study as a viable and reliable tool. This research could be valuable for development of multifunctional fabrics in technical textile applications.     

Drape simulation of three-dimensional virtual garment enabling fabric properties

This study analyzes how the silhouette of virtual garments applied to virtual avatars is altered according to various virtual fabric properties. This study measures the properties of real fabrics that include a charmeuse (#F1) and gabardine (#F2) using the Fabric Analysis by Simple Testing system; in addition, the material properties of different real fabrics were applied to that of the virtual fabric. It then evaluates the drape stiffness and silhouette of the virtual garments according to the different fabrics. This study also compared the virtual garment silhouette of sample fabric #F1-S that changed only the stretch property of the sample fabric #F1 with the virtual garment silhouette of sample fabric #F1. The results show that the fabric properties including bend, thickness, weight, stretch, shear values affect the drape stiffness, silhouette, and fit of the virtual garment simulated on virtual avatars and may be used for the realistic virtual garment technology.     

Comparison of bending properties Co-woven-knitted and Multi-layered biaxial Weft-knitted fabric reinforced composites

Co-woven-knitted (CWK) fabrics and multi-layered biaxial weft knitted (MBWK) fabrics were prepared using glass filaments as both the warp and weft yarns and high tenacity polyesters as the stitch yarns with the same stitch length. Then the polyethylene resin was injected into the fabrics by vacuum assisted resin transfer molding to produce composites. Specific bending stress-displacement curves in the course and wale directions of the CWK fabric reinforced composites and the MBWK fabric reinforced composites were analyzed and their bending properties were also compared. Results indicate that the initial segments of all the specific bending stress-displacement curves for the CWK and the MBWK fabric reinforced composites are linear; then the specific bending stresses decrease with the displacements in a wave-like manner until sample destruction. The CWK fabric reinforced composites show plastic failure in course and wale directions, while the MBWK fabric reinforced composites show first fragile failure then plastic failure in course direction and show plastic failure in wale direction. Bending properties in the course direction of the CWK and the MBWK fabric reinforced composites are different from those in their wale direction, respectively. The CWK fabric reinforced composites are of smaller anisotropy than the MBWK fabric reinforced composites. By designing the buckling and distribution of the warp and weft yarns, the axial properties difference can be shortened.     

Cotton fabric mechanical properties affected by post-finishing processes

Following the work done previously [1]. In this paper, the effect of various post-finishing agents on the low stress mechanical and surface properties of dyed cotton fabrics, as well as their handle value have been studied. The mechanical properties of the treated cotton fabrics were measured by the famous KES-FB system. It has been found that cotton fabric mechanical properties and fabric handle can be modified by not only the external finishing agents but also the internal finishing agents which are used for correcting the inherent defect of the fabrics. The results in this report will inform the textile industry in engineering required fabric properties with appropriate finishing processes.     

Study on heat and moisture vapour transmission characteristics through multilayered fabric ensembles

A detailed study on the heat and moisture vapour transmission characteristics of different types of single and multi-layered fabric ensemble by using sweating guarded hot plate (SGHP) has been reported in the present paper. A comparison has been made on thermal and moisture vapour transmission properties of five different insulative fabrics, namely, knitted-raised fabric, needle punched nonwoven, through air bonded nonwoven, spunbonded-through air bonded sandwich nonwoven and warp knitted spacer fabric and three different coated fabrics, namely, plain woven rubber coated, plain woven polyester polymer coated and plain woven polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) coated fabric, used for thermal insulation purpose. ANOVA has been conducted to analyse the significance of type of insulative and coated fabrics used. Sandwich nonwoven fabric which has higher thickness and porosity shows higher thermal resistance followed by through air bonded fabric, raised fabric, needle punched fabric and spacer fabric. Spacer fabric shows lesser evaporative resistance due to its lesser thickness and larger aperture size, which increases the diffusion of moisture vapour. Needle punched fabric shows slightly higher evaporative resistance than spacer fabric, followed by raised fabric, through air bonded fabric and sandwich nonwoven fabric. Permeability index of different multilayered fabric ensembles are also compared.     

Seam pucker and formability of the worsted fabrics

The purpose of this study is to objectively evaluate the seam pucker as a fabric formability and to analyze the effects of the fabric structural and sewing parameters to the seam pucker properties of the worsted and wool/polyester blend fabrics. The seam pucker of the worsted and wool/polyester blend fabrics according to the different types of fibre composition were surveyed by measuring fabric mechanical property using KES-FB and FAST systems and also seam puckering test was conducted by objective and subjective methods. In addition, the effects of fabric structural and sewing parameters to the seam pucker were investigated using statistical analysis. It was revealed that the effects of fabric structural parameters to the seam pucker were dominant than those of sewing machine conditions. It was shown that low pressor foot pressure and shuttle tension make good seam pucker, and high sewing speed and shuttle tension make bad seam pucker. And it was also shown that the precision on estimating of the seam pucker by KES-FB system was much higher than that of FAST system. And seam pucker values between objective and subjective methods showed good correlation.     

Measurement of fuzz fibers on fabric surface using image analysis methods

Fuzz on the fabrics, which is the fibers protruded from the fabric surface, is very important in view of appearance quality, since it causes unpleasant appearance on the fabrics and also leads to pilling which makes fabric appearance and softness worse. However, fuzz on fabric surface is measured mostly by subjective methods (human vision) rather than objective methods. Thus, in this study, objective method using image analysis techniques has been developed for the measurement of fuzz on fabric surface. Fuzz on the fabric has also been ranked and rated by experts in order to see the reliability of the results obtained from the fuzz measurement. It was observed that correlation coefficient (r) between rating value and objective measurement value was 0.9 and this correlation coefficient value confirmed the reliability of this method.     

Properties of stick-slip stage of yarn pull-out in para-aramid woven fabric

The aim of this study was to understand stick-slip properties of para-aramid woven fabrics. For this reason, pullout test was conducted on para-aramid Kevlar®29 and Kevlar®129 woven fabrics. The stick-slip and accumulative retraction force regions were defined based on the force-displacement curve. It was found that the stick-slip force and accumulative retraction force depended on fabric density and the number of pulled ends in the fabric. Stick-slip force in the multiple yarn pull-out test was higher than those of the single yarn pull-out test. Stick-slip force in single and multiple yarn pull-out tests in the dense K29 fabric were higher than those of the loose K129 fabric. In addition, long fabric samples showed high stick-slip force compared to that of the short fabric samples. On the other hand, the amount of stick-slip force was related to the number of interlacement points in the fabric whereas the amount of accumulative retraction force was related to fabric structural response.     

Durable multifunctional properties on acrylic fabric using nano TiO2 and polysiloxane

Producing fabric with multifunctional properties has been recently a center of research and utilizing nanoparticles is an efficient approach to gain this purpose. Here, nano TiO₂ photo catalyst and polysiloxane softener were utilized as stabilizer on the acrylic fabric to obtain soft handle, hydrophilic, and self-cleaning features on the fabric. The effect of various concentrations of nano TiO₂ and polysiloxane on the fabric handle, water droplet absorption time, and self-cleaning properties of the fabric has been mathematically modeled based on the response surface methodology (RSM). The optimized treatment conditions indicated that treated acrylic fabric with 2.19 % polysiloxane and 0.68 % nano TiO₂ produced the rigidity of 26.8 g.cm, water absorption time of 15.8 s and self-cleaning of ΔE _T *=18.1. Also increasing the concentration of polysiloxane enhanced both wettability and photoactive properties of nano TiO₂ treated acrylic fabrics. Further, the nano TiO₂/polysiloxane treated acrylic fabrics is significantly enable to absorb the light with wavelength lower than 400 nm and improve discoloration of C.I. Reactive Yellow 1.     

Mechanical properties of uniaxial natural fabric Grewia tilifolia reinforced epoxy based composites: Effects of chemical treatment

The effects of chemical treatment on the mechanical, morphological, and chemical resistance properties of uniaxial natural fabrics, Grewia tilifolia/epoxy composites, were studied. In order to enhance the interfacial bonding between the epoxy matrix and the Grewia tilifolia fabrics, two different types of treatment: alkali treatment (5 % NaOH) and (3-aminopropyl)-triethoxysilane coupling agent (CA), were used. The epoxy composites containing 0–15 wt% of Grewia tilifolia fabric were prepared by hand lay-up technique, at room temperature. The tensile and flexural properties of the untreated, alkali-treated and coupling agent treated Grewia tilifolia reinforced epoxy composites were determined as a function of fabric loading. The 9 % wt Grewia tilifolia fabric reinforced epoxy composites showed improved tensile and flexural modulii when compared to the neat epoxy matrix. Significant improvement in the mechanical properties was obtained when both alkali and coupling agent treated fabrics were used as reinforcement. Morphological studies demonstrated that better adhesion between the fabrics and the matrix was achieved especially when the alkali-treated and coupling agent treated Grewia tilifolia fabrics were used in the composites. For the water absorption and chemical resistance studies, various solvents, acids and alkalis were used on the epoxy composites. This study has shown that Grewia tilifolia fabric/epoxy composites are promising candidates for structural applications, where high strength and stiffness are required.     

The impact of dry and wet cleaning on fabric electromagnetic field shield effect

The aim of this research is to investigate shield effect properties of the fabrics with inox yarns included in the construction, which are used for special professional garments and should protect from electromagnetic microwave irradiation. The investigation was done prior to and after the professional care procedures of dry and wet cleaning in ten cleaning cycles. Shield effect measurements were done on the face and on the back of the fabric, weftwise and warpwise, prior to and after the first, third, fifth, seventh and tenth cycles of dry and wet cleaning, at the frequencies from 0.9 to 2.4 GHz. The results obtained indicated that shield effect of the fabric tested was reduced after professional care procedures, especially so after 5 cycles. The investigations also revealed that shield effect could be considerably enhanced if the inox yarns were incorporated into the fabric in the direction of the warp.