Psychological and physiological responses to the rustling sounds of Korean traditional silk fabrics

The objectives of this study were to investigate physiological and psychological responses to the rustling sound of Korean traditional silk fabrics and to figure out objective measurements such as sound parameters and mechanical properties determining the human responses. Five different traditional silk fabrics were selected by cluster analysis and their sound characteristics were observed in terms of FFT spectra and some calculated sound parameters including level pressure of total sound (LPT), Zwicker’s psychoacoustic parameters — loudness(Z), sharpness(Z), roughness(Z), and fluctuation strength(Z), and sound color factors such as ΔL and Δf. As physiological signals, the ratio of low frequency to high frequency (LF/HF) from the power spectrum of heart rate variability, pulse volume (PV), heart rate (HR), and skin conductance level (SCL) evoked by the fabric sounds were measured from thirty participants. Also, seven aspects of psychological state including softness, loudness, sharpness, roughness, clearness, highness, and pleasantness were evaluated when each sound was presented. The traditional silk fabric sounds were likely to be felt as soft and pleasant rather than clear and high, which seemed to evoke less change of both LF/HF and SCL indicating a negative sensation than other fabrics previously reported. As fluctuation strength(Z) were higher and bending rigidity (B) values lower, the fabrics tended to be perceived as sounding softer, which resulted in increase of PV changes. The higher LPT was concerned with higher rating for subjective loudness so that HR was more increased. Also, compression linearity (LC) affected subjective pleasantness positively, which caused less changes of HR. Therefore, we concluded that such objective measurements as LPT, fluctuation strength(Z), bending rigidity (B), and compression linearity (LC) were significant factors affecting physiological and psychological responses to the sounds of Korean traditional silk fabrics.     

Effect of fabric sound and touch on human subjective sensation

In order to investigate the relationship between subjective sensation for fabric sound and touch and the objective measurements, eight different apparel fabrics were selected as specimens. Sound parameters of fabrics including level pressure of total sound (LPT), level range (ΔL), and frequency differences (Δf) and mechanical properties by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) were obtained. For subjective evaluation, seven aspects of the sound (softness, loudness, pleasantness, sharpness, clearness, roughness, and highness) and eight of the touch (hardness, smoothness, fineness, coolness, pliability, crispness, heaviness, and thickness) were rated using semantic differential scale. Polyester ultrasuede was evaluated to sound softer and more pleasant while polyester taffeta to sound louder and rougher than any other fabrics. Wool fabrics such as worsted and woolen showed similar sensation for sound but differed in some touch sensation in that woolen was coarsest, heaviest, and thickest in touch. In the prediction model for sound sensation, LPT affected postively subjective roughness and highness as well as loudness, whileΔL was found as a parameter related positively with softness and pleasantness. Touch sensation was explained by some of mechanical properties such as surface, compressional, shear, and bending properties implying that a touch sensation could be expressed by a variety of properties.     

Prediction models for audible distance using mechanical and psychoacoustic parameters of combat uniform fabrics

A short audible distance for the rustling sound of combat uniform fabric helps to reduce soldiers’ exposure to the enemy forces. The objectives of this study were to evaluate mechanical properties and sound characteristics of combat uniform fabrics, to investigate their influence on audible distance at which fabric’s rustling sound can be reached to human ear, and to establish prediction models for audible distance using mechanical and psychoacoustic parameters. Six types of combat uniform fabrics were used as test specimen. Mechanical properties of the specimens were measured according to the KES-FB system and the acoustic characteristics of the fabrics were analyzed by the Sound Quality System. Audible distances of the fabric sounds were assessed by 30 male soldiers. The audible distances were determined by the distance of which the participants walked away from a starting point in a straight line until they could not hear the sound. Water repellent finished fabric (W-WR), which showed the highest values of bending rigidity, shear stiffness, sound pressure level, loudness(Z) and sharpness(Z) among all fabrics, had the longist audible distance. Fabric for summer season (W-S) had the shortest audible distance in all frictional speed levels, which indicates the best auditory camouflage performance. Coefficient of friction was chosen as the variable affecting loudness(Z) of fabric sounds. Loudness(Z) was finally chosen as the prediction parameter for the audible distance by path analysis.     

Effect of frictional sound of combat uniform fabrics on Autonomic Nervous System (ANS) responses

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effect of frictional sound of Korean combat uniform fabrics on the human responses of ANS and to relate them to the mechanical properties of fabrics in order to find out the way to reduce frictional sound of combat uniform fabrics. Three different frictional sounds of combat uniform fabrics were selected by cluster analysis and their sound characteristics were calculated using Sound Quality System. Ten participants’ ANS responses such as heart rate (HR), the ratio of LF/HF, skin conductance level (SCL), and pulse volume (PV) were measured during presenting the frictional sound as stimuli. Mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. Response differences (ANS responses after stimuli — those before stimuli) of HR and LF/HF significantly were positive to all of the fabric sounds, while the differences of pulse volume (PV) were negative. This phenomenon explains that sympathetic nerve system of all participants stimulated and they might feel nervous or bad with the frictional sound of fabric. WC, MMD, SMD and weight of fabric were negatively correlated with ANS, but RT, B and RC were positively correlated. They appeared to be influential factors affecting ANS responses.     

Integrated graphical presentation of fabric sound and mechanical properties

This paper proposes a new model capable of predicting frictional sounds of woven fabrics, knitted fabrics and vapor permeable water repellent fabrics by measuring the relationships between their sound parameters and mechanical properties. We conducted an experiment in which fabric frictional sounds were recorded and analyzed. A total of 217 specimens consisting of woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, and vapor permeable water repellent fabrics were sampled, and their frictional sounds recorded using a Sound Quality System. Sound parameters of fabrics including SPL (Sound Pressure Level), Loudness (Z), Sharpness (Z), and mechanical properties by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) were obtained. The relation between sound parameters and mechanical properties were analyzed by multiple regressions. Specimens were divided into 3 clusters using mechanical properties selected by stepwise selection method, and the mechanical properties of each cluster were investigated. Specimens were classified into clusters having high level of SPL and Loudness (Z), high level of Sharpness (Z), and middle level of Loudness (Z) and Sharpness (Z), which means that sound parameters are well verified by mechanical properties of the specimens. Mechanical properties relevant to each sound parameter were mapped on two dimensional spaces by integrated graphical presentation. SPL showed high positive correlation coefficients with MMD and LT. Loudness (Z) was well predicted by 2HG5 and Sharpness (Z) by MIU.     

Analysis of acoustic characteristics of fabrics in terms of mechanical properties

The purpose of this study was to classify various fabrics into some meaningful groups and to predict the fabrics’ acoustic characteristics using their mechanical properties. Two hundred seventeen fabrics, fifty one knitted fabrics, fifty nine woven fabrics and one hundred and seven vapor permeable water repellent fabrics, were used as test specimen. Fabric frictional sounds of the specimen were measured with a MAFN(Measuring Apparatus for Fabric Noise, Patent: No, 2001-73360). Sound Pressure Level(SPL), psychoacoustic parameters such as Loudness(z) and Sharpness(z) of the specimen were obtained by the sound quality system. KES-FB system was used for mechanical property measurements. Cluster analysis was used to classify the specimen and discriminant analysis was used to predict the clusters. Linear regression analysis was used to suggest the equations to predict the acoustic properties using mechanical properties.     

Cross-cultural study of color sensation and sensibility for Korean traditional fabrics with natural indigo dyeing

This study focused on fabric planning for environment-friendly fashion products for the international market. In order to achieve this objective, some Korean traditional fabrics (Mosee and Myungjoo) with natural indigo dye were selected and they were evaluated in terms of subjective color sensation and sensibility by two cultural groups (Korean and American college students). Also, color preference for the natural dye fabrics by each cultural group was predicted by colorimetric properties, color sensation, and color sensibility factors. Most bluish fabrics dyed with natural indigo colorants were likely to provide a cold and strong sensation. There were partially significant differences in terms of color sensation among six fabrics. The color sensibility for the naturally dyed fabrics was classified into three factors: ‘Classic’, Romantic’, and ‘Unique’. The color sensibility factor ‘Classic’ was the dominant factor for the naturally dyed fabrics with indigo colorant. There were cultural differences in terms of color sensation and color sensibility factors between Korean and American university students. Color preference of dyed fabrics with natural indigo was found to be influenced mainly by the color sensibility factors among colorimetric properties, color sensation, and color sensibility.     

Intergenerational differences of color sensation and preference for naturally dyed fabrics

This study was performed in order to evaluate subjective color sensation and preference for yellowish and reddish natural dye fabrics and to provide meaningful objective colorimetric properties which can quantify the sensation and preference focused on intergenerational differences. Among lots of natural dye silk fabrics, four differently dyed fabrics for each hue were used as specimens by cluster analysis. College students as younger generation and high school teachers as middle-aged evaluated them subjectively in terms of eight aspects color sensation such as clearness, lightness, depth, warmth, strength, brightness, hardness, and fragrance. Intergenerational differences appeared more frequently as for the lightest and the most saturated yellowish fabrics dyed with amur cork than any other fabrics. All of sensation and preference were significantly explained by some colorimetric properties for each generation. Color lightness, L* was the only positive predictor for color preference of younger generation’s preference whereas color saturation, C* illustrated negatively for that of middle-aged.     

Sensory evaluation of fabric touch by free modulus magnitude estimation

Fabric touch was evaluated psychophysically in order to determine the relationship between mechanical properties and subjective sensation. For subjective touch sensation, eight aspects such as hardness, smoothness, coarseness, coolness, pliability, crispness, heaviness and thickness were evaluated using free modulus magnitude estimation (FMME) technique. KES-FB was used to measure the mechanical properties of fabrics. Woolen fabric with the highest values of WC and weight was evaluated as the coarsest, heaviest and thickest. While silk crepe de chine with the lowest LT, G, 2HG, thickness and weight was rated as smoother and more pliable than any other fabrics. And flax with the highest values of LT and SMD was evaluated as hard, cool and crisp. Fabric touch and satisfaction were predicted well from the mechanical properties, especially from SMD, by regression analysis. Satisfaction for touch increased as smoothness increased.     

A cross-cultural comparison of image perception and preferences for cotton fabrics between Korea and the United States

The purpose of this research was to perform an international comparison of image perception and preferences for cotton fabrics, specifically examining the inter-cultural differences that exist between Koreans and Americans. Respondents were asked to rate 55 different fabrics, produced in Korea, relative to eight different characterizations: feminine, masculine, casual, classic, new, old, ambiguous and orderly. Then they were asked to rate their level of preference for each fabric, using 7-point scales. Both Koreans and Americans evaluated thin and soft fabrics with pale colors high relative to feminine image and evaluated slightly thick, coarse and stiff fabrics with low chromatics high relative to masculine image. However, Koreans tended to categorize fabrics as feminine or masculine using color characteristics, while Americans tended to use surface characteristics. For the casual image, Denim and Chambray were rated highly, both in Korea and in the US. There were no fabrics which both countries rated highly for the classic image. New image was rated significantly above average in Korea, but average in the US. The old image perceptions fell below average in both countries. Most fabrics were evaluated above average with respect to being orderly, but fell below the average for ambiguous image, both in Korea and the US. Koreans showed higher preferences for the chosen fabrics than Americans, but the preference tendencies were similar in the two countries.     

Psychoacoustic characteristics of fibers

In order to investigate psychoacoustic characteristics of fibers, and to compare them with sound physical parameters, each sound of 25 different fabrics consisted of a single fiber such as wool, cotton, silk, polyester, and nylon was recorded. Sounds of specimens were transformed into critical band diagram and psychoacoustic characteristics including loudness and sharpness for each sound were calculated based on Zwicker’s models. Physical parameters such as the level pressure of total sound (LPT), level ranges (ΔL), frequency differences (Δf), AR coefficients (ARC, ARF, ARE) were obtained in fast fourier transform (FFT) spectrum. Nylon taffeta showed higher values for loudness than 2.5 sone corresponding to human low conversation, while most silk fibers generated less louder showing lower values for loudness than 1.0 sone. Wool fibers had higher loudness mean value than that of cotton, while the two fibers didn’t differ in LPT. Loudness showed high positive correlation coefficients with both LPT and ARC. Sharpness values were higher for wool fiber group than other fibers. Sharpness was not concerned with loudness, LPT, and ARC, but the fabrics with higher values for sharpness tended to show higherΔL.     

Key Characteristics of a Novel Silk Yarn from Fresh Cocoons

We studied the key characteristics of a novel silk yarn reeled from fresh cocoons. Compared with traditional silk yarn, this novel silk yarn displayed better mechanical properties, especially in terms of a higher breaking stress and toughness, and exhibited a different surface morphology. A cross-sectional observation and the sericin content results illustrated that different sericin coatings on the silk yarn reeled from fresh cocoons surface did not improve the mechanical properties. The degumming and tensile testing analysis indicated that degummed silk fibroin of novel silk yarn is able to resist deformation and fracture better than silk fibroin of traditional silk yarn. The FTIR results revealed that the selected techniques is an important contributor to the silk fibroin mechanical properties, because novel technique brought higher percentage beta-sheet structures in novel silk yarn fibroin than traditional silk yarn. The new technique that using novel silk yarn has improved its mechanical properties and it is expected that the silk yarn with superior mechanical properties could be used in fabrics transistors, electrodes and reinforced biomaterials.     

Handle,fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn woven stretch fabrics

Hybrid yarn was produced by twisting silk with nylon covered lycra yarn. Silk of 20 D in warp and hybrid yarn in weft was woven to develop lustrous woven stretch fabrics for sari blouse. Silk and hybrid yarn fabrics were produced in three different weaves namely plain, crepe and sateen. An in-depth study was carried out to understand the effect of weave on thermal comfort; low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties. Nine blouses (3 samples× 3 figures) were constructed from three different woven stretch materials for fit assessment and objective pressure comfort test. The effect of fabric weave, low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties on fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabrics were analyzed. Sateen weave silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabric shows higher total hand value, stretch properties and better thermal comfort properties. Sateen and crepe weave stretch fabrics provided good fit. Sateen weave fabric exerted lower clothing pressure value in the range of 3-12 mmHg at all body locations in standing position and in different postures.     

Physiological signal analyses of frictional sound by structural parameters of warp knitted fabrics

The purpose of this study is to offer acoustical database of warp knitted fabrics by investigating frictional sound properties and physiological responses according to structural parameters such as construction, lap form, and direction of mutual guide bar movement. Fabric sounds of seven warp knitted fabrics are recorded, and Zwicker’s psychoacoustic parameters — loudness(Z), sharpness(Z), roughness(Z), and fluctuation strength(Z) — are calculated. Also, physiological responses evoked by frictional sounds of warp knitted fabrics are measured such as electroencephalogram (EEG), the ratio of high frequency to low frequency (HF/LF), respiration rate (RESP), skin conductance level (SCL), and photoplethysmograph (PPG). In case of constructions, frictional sound of sharkskin having higher loudness(Z) and fluctuation strength(Z) increases RESP. By lap form, open lap has louder and larger fluctuating sound than closed lap, but there aren’t significant difference of physiological responses between open lap and closed lap. In direction of mutual guide bar movement, parallel direction evokes bigger changes of beta wave than counter direction because of its loud, rough, and fluctuating sound. Fluctuation strength(Z) and roughness(Z) are defined as important factors for predicting physiological responses in construction and mutual guide bar movement, respectively.     

Minimizing frictional sound of PU-Nanoweb and PTFE film laminated vapor permeable water repellent fabrics

To investigate sound characteristics of PU-Nanoweb (NW) and PTFE film (PTFE) laminated vapor permeable water repellent fabrics, their frictional sounds by walking, jogging, and running speeds were recorded and sound characteristics such as SPL, loudness (Z), sharpness (Z), roughness (Z), and fluctuation strength (Z) were calculated. Mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. SPL and fluctuation strength (Z) were significantly increased by increasing speed. Roughness (Z) was generated to be the highest by jogging and running speeds. However, sharpness (Z) was decreased by increasing speeds. NW had significantly lower SPL, loudness (Z), but had higher roughness (Z) than PTFE. NW significantly had less B (bending rigidity), G (shear stiffness), WC (compressional energy), and W (weight). These distinctions influenced the sound characteristics to have the different sound between NW and PTFE. The sound would be low by controlling the mechanical properties and laminated nanoweb and film conditions. The crucial factors were RC and laminated nanoweb and film weight to minimize SPL and loudness (Z) of NW and PTFE at all speeds.     

A new consolidation system for aged silk fabrics: Interaction between ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether,silk Fibroin and Artificial Aged Silk Fabrics

Consolidation of fragile historic silks is of great importance for further displays and researches. An effective and convenient method to consolidate aged silk fabric has been proposed by using a silk fibroin (SF)/ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether (EGDE) consolidation system. Artificial aged silk fabrics treated with SF/EGDE show great improvement in mechanical properties. The chemical reaction between EGDE and silk fabrics has been proved in previous paper. And in this paper, mechanical test, field emission scanning electron microscopy (FESEM), Fourier transform infrared spectrum (FTIR) test and amino acid analysis (AAA) were applied to illustrate the interactions between SF and silk fabric, EGDE and SF. Results show that SF takes part in the consolidation in the form of adhesions on the surface of silk fibers. The chemical reactions and film adhesion are both responsible for the improvements of mechanical properties in the consolidation.     

Mechanical properties and tactile sensation of naturally colored organic cotton fabrics

This study was carried out to investigate mechanical properties of naturally colored organic cotton (NaCOC) fabrics, to evaluate tactile sensory perceptions, and finally to identify the related mechanical parameters with the sensory perceptions. Two species, coyote-brown and green NaCOC fiber, commercially available, were selected and woven into plain and twill fabrics. Seventeen mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. Then, primary hand value (PHV) and total hand value (THV) were calculated by KN-203-LDY and KN-302-SUMMER, respectively. For sensory perception evaluation, 30 participants answered the questionnaire consisted of nine different bipolar adjectives dealing with tactile sensation using the semantic differential scale (SDS). As the result of mechanical properties, there were meaningful differences in shear, surface, compression properties, thickness, and weight of 4 NaCOC fabrics. For hand value, a coyotebrown twill fabric was evaluated as the most appropriate for lady’s summer dress applications. In sensory perception evaluation, meaningful differences of sensory perception were shown among 4 specimens except ‘fineness’ and ‘wetness’ perceptions. Prediction models for sensory perceptions of NaCOC fabrics were extracted by regression analysis in ‘softness’, ‘fineness’, ‘warmth’, ‘pliability’, ‘limpness’, ‘thinness’ and ‘wetness’ perceptions.     

Empirical modelling of tensile strength of woven fabrics

Aesthetic properties of fabrics have been considered as the most important fabric attribute for years. However, recently there has been a paradigm shift in the domain of textile material applications and consequently more emphasis is now being given on the mechanical and functional properties of fabrics rather than its aesthetic appeal. Moreover, in certain woven fabrics used for technical applications, strength is a decisive quality parameter. In this work, tensile strength of plain woven fabrics has been predicted by using two empirical modelling methods namely artificial neural network (ANN) and linear regression. Warp yarn strength, warp yarn elongation, ends per inch (EPI), picks per inch (PPI) and weft count (Ne) were used as input parameters. Both the models were able to predict the fabric strength with reasonably good precision although ANN model demonstrated higher prediction accuracy and generalization ability than the regression model. The warp yarn strength and EPI were found to be the two most significant factors influencing fabric strength in warp direction.     

Colorimetric properties and color sensibility of naturally colored organic cotton fabrics

This study was done to propose color conditions and fabrics that satisfy the particular sensibilities of consumers and producers through an analysis of color sensibility factors for an environmentally-friendly material, i.e., naturally colored organic cotton (NaCOC) fabrics. Toward that end, the colorimetric properties of eight NaCOC fabrics were measured, and the fabrics?? subjective color sensibilities were evaluated. In addition, based on the relationship between the colorimetric properties and subjective color sensibilities, the prediction models for color sensibilities of NaCOC fabrics were developed. According to the established models, hard-soft, cool-warm, deep-pale, vague-distinct, plain-showy, and subdued-vivid sensibilities can be predicted by some variables of colorimetric properties such as L*, a*, C*, and h. As another ultimate goal of this study, suitable NaCOC fabrics to evoke certain sensibilities were proposed by multidimensional scaling method. The proposed fabrics and color sensibility factors are believed to offer an important guideline for those who design clothing products made of NaCOC.     

Application of <Emphasis Type="Italic">Sterculia Foetida</Emphasis> Fruit Shell Waste Biomolecules on Silk for Aesthetic and Wellness Properties

There has been growing interest in the use of bioresource waste for natural dyeing and finishing. This paper discusses dye extraction from the novel source fruit shell waste of Sterculia foetida and its application on mulberry silk fabric to confer aesthetic coloration and wellness properties such as ultra-violet (UV) protection and antibacterial properties. Treated fabrics showed a substantial increase in color depth and adequate wash, light, and rubbing fastness properties for dyed silk fabrics with and without mordanting. Pre-and post-mordanting of silk fabrics were carried out using mordants such as alum, harda (myrobalan), and copper sulfate. UV-visible spectrophotometric analysis of fruit shell extract (FSE) at different pHs and FSE with three different mordants at neutral pH was used to understand the phenomena of dye-fiber interaction. The treated fabrics characterised by ATR-FTIR, SEM-EDS, and XRD analysis indicate the nature of dye fiber interaction justifying the multifunctional properties. The treated fabric also showed very good ultraviolet protection property and antibacterial properties both against S. aureus and E. coli bacteria even after ten washes. The results indicate that Sterculia foetida fruit shell extract offers an excellent potential as coloration, antibacterial, and ultraviolet protective agent for mulberry silk fabric.