Exploring the potential uses of <Emphasis Type="Italic">Vitis vinifera</Emphasis> L. leaves as raw material for textile dyeing without metal mordants

This paper explores the potential uses of the aqueous extract of Vitis vinifera L. leaves in dyeing linen and silk fabrics without a metal mordant. The focus will be on investigating the tinctorial potential of Vitis vinifera L. leaves and its dyeing properties. The anthocyanins amounts of leaves from different Vitis vinifera L. varieties were determined by the spectrophotometry method. The effect of the main dyeing parameters (pH of the dye bath, temperature, and dyeing duration) on the dyeing quality results has been studied. Tannic acid and pomegranate peel extract have been used as a natural mordant. Experimental results have shown that fastness properties of dyed fabrics ranged from average to very good.     

Extraction, identification and dyeing studies of Isosalipurposide, a natural chalcone dye from Acacia cyanophylla flowers on wool

A chalcone compound Isosalipurposide 1 was qualitatively isolated from Acacia cyanophylla yellow flowers. The dyeing of wool fabrics with this chalcone compound as a natural dye has been studied. The effect of dye bath pH and dyeing temperature were investigated. The obtained shades were bright with generally a good fastness. A post-mordanting method was used in the dyeing of wool with this chalcone dye. It was found that, generally, mordanting improved light fastness especially in the case of zinc sulphate.     

<Emphasis Type="Italic">Limoniastrum monopetalum</Emphasis> stems as a new source of natural colorant for dyeing wool fabrics

In the present study, an attempt has been made to dye the wool fabric with Limoniastrum monopetalum stems, as a source of natural dye, which has not been exploited so far. Optimization of extraction parameters was done. Optimum results of extraction process were obtained with a dye concentration of 60 g/l, a temperature of 90 °C during 100 min. The study of different factors effecting dyeability of wool fabrics by aqueous L. monopetalum stems extract showed that the pH of dye bath and dyeing temperature and time affected considerably the color yield. The best results were obtained at the following conditions; pH 2, 100 °C, and 60 min. Metal mordants, when used in conjunction with L. monopetalum dye, allowed to obtain various shades. The determination of phenolic contents of aqueous L. monopetalum stems extract showed a high amount of phenolic components. Based on RP-HPLC, the coloring extract of L. monopetalum stems contains tannins and polyphenols. The major identified phenolic compounds were procatechuic, Trans-cinnamic and gallic acids. Hence, aqueous L. monopetalum stems extract could be successfully exploited for dyeing wool fabrics with high color yield (K/S).     

Dyeing of synthetic fabrics in water using azoic dyes based on boronic acid derivatives

Development of water-soluble dyes for the dyeing of different textile fabrics is essential for the textile industry due to ecological and economical reasons. In this study, a series of new azoic dyes were prepared by diazotization reaction between the phenyl boronic acid and different aniline derivatives, and their dyeing capacity in aqueous solution was evaluated. The synthesized boronic azo dyes present good water solubility and can dye polyamide (nylon), wool, silk, and cellulose acetate fabrics. The effect of factors such as concentration of dye, dyeing temperature, and pH on the level of color strength (K/S) was studied. The dyeing results showed that higher color strength K/S (about 16) and fastness properties (about 4/5) with boronic acid dyes were achieved at higher temperatures avoiding the use of surface agents, mordants, and other polluting chemical additives.     

Dyeing, fastness, and deodorizing properties of cotton, silk, and wool fabrics dyed with gardenia, coffee sludge, Cassia tora. L., and pomegranate extracts

Four kinds of natural dying solutions (natural colorant extracts) were obtained by extraction from gardenia, coffee sludge, Cassia tora. L., and pomegranate using water at 90°C for 90 min with a liquor ratio (solid natural colorant material/solvent water, weight ratio) of 1/10. The dyeing, colour fastness, and deodorizing properties of cotton, silk, and wool fabrics dyed with natural colorant extracts were compared. It was found that these properties were significantly dependent on the concentration of extracts, the structure of colorant, and the kind of fabrics. The order of colour strength (K/S) is Cassia tora. L., pomegranate, coffee sludge, and gardenia. Colour fastness (light, water, and perspiration fastness) was in the range of 2nd–5th grades. The deodorizing performance of fabrics dyed with various natural colorant extracts was in the range of 50–99 %. The deodorizing performance increased in the order of gardenia < Cassia tora. L. < coffee sludge < pomegranate. Especially, the deodorizing performance of all fabrics dyed with pomegranate was found to be highest at 99 %.     

Study on the natural dyeing of wool modified with enzyme

In this study, the natural pigment from sappan was used for the dyeing of wool fabrics after treatment with the protease and transglutaminase. The influences of protease and transglutaminase on the UV/visible absorption spectrum of aqueous extract of sappan were studied. The enzymatic modified wool was compared with non-modified wool in K/S value and fastness after direct dyeing and mordant dyeing. It was shown that protease and transglutaminase made the absorbance at the λ _max 540 nm in visible region increase. It suggested that there might be some interaction between the enzymes and sappan dye and the residual enzyme on wool fabric might affect the color of following dyeing. Compared to untreated wool, treatments with protease and transglutaminase enhance K/S value of wool dyed subsequently with sappan. Modification of protease led to some decrease in wet rubbing fastness, whereas transglutaminase had almost no influence on rubbing fastness. Enzymatic treatments have no influence on the washing fastness for samples dyed with sappan.     

Extraction,Dyeing, and Antibacterial Properties of <Emphasis Type="Italic">Crataegus Elbursensis</Emphasis> Fruit Natural Dye on Wool Yarn

Fruits obtained from shrubs of the Crataegus elbursensis (C. elbursensis) plant demonstrate significant antioxidant and antibacterial properties. In this study, natural dye was sono-extracted from fresh and dried fruits and applied in dyeing and antibacterial finishing of wool. The maximum sono-extraction yield was obtained when optimal conditions of ethanol/ water (4/1 v/v) as extracting solvent, time 30 min, pH 4, temperature 50 oC, and C. elbursensis concentration 10 g/l were used. When wool yarns were dyed with the extracted natural dye, the maximum dye uptake was achieved using dye concentration 75 % owf, and dyeing condition of 100 oC, 60 min, pH 4, and LR 100:1. Different metal salts like aluminum sulfate, copper sulfate, and tin chloride were applied on wool by pre-mordanting method and their effects on dye uptake, color variation, and color fastness were examined. Results showed that the natural dye itself had relatively high uptake and good color fastness on un-mordanted wool. Further, each mordant had different effect on dye uptake, color variation, and color fastness properties depending on its coordination ability with dye molecules and wool chains. Moreover, dyed yarns showed good antibacterial activity against Escherichia coli (E. coli) and Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) bacteria.     

One-Bath Union Dyeing of Wool/Acrylic Blend Fabric with Cationic Reactive Dyes Based on Azobenzene

Three unreported cationic reactive dyes based on azobenzene were synthesized using a novel synthetic route. Synthesized dyestuffs containing three primary color dyes were characterized by FTIR, H-NMR, LC-MS, Element Analysis and UV-vis spectroscopic techniques. The absorption spectra of dyes were measured in three solvents with different polarities. The dyeing and color fastness properties of three cationic reactive dyes on wool, acrylic and wool/acrylic blend fabrics were determined. The optimum pH for wool and acrylic fabrics were 6 and 5, respectively. Effect of temperature, time on dyeing properties and color fastness properties on wool fabric showed the same tendency with acrylic fabric. The K/S value of wool fabric dyed with three dyes was similar to that of acrylic fabric when both fabrics were dyed simultaneously in the same dyebath using low dye concentration. Wool/acrylic blend fabric dyed with three cationic reactive dyes using onebath one-step method achieved good union dyeing property and excellent color fastness.     

Study on the dyeing of wool fabrics with Phytolacca berry natural dyes

Dyeing of wool fabrics with natural dyes from Phytolacca berries has been studied. The effect of dye concentration, dye bath pH, dyeing time and temperature were discussed. The influence of chitosan application on the dyeing properties of wool fabrics was investigated. The SEM photographs of chitosan treated wool fabrics clearly depict the deposition of chitosan on the fibers. The effect of chitosan concentration, dye bath pH, dyeing time and temperature has been studied by orthogonal experiment. It has been proved that the dyed wool samples pretreated by chitosan have higher color fastness, faster dyeing rate, and better antibacterial properties compared with untreated ones.     

Meta-mordant Dyeing with <Emphasis Type="Italic">Camellia sinensis</Emphasis> (L.) O. Ktze var. <Emphasis Type="Italic">waldensae</Emphasis> (S.Y.Hu) Chang (Yellow-bud Tea) Extract for Wool Fabrics Treated by UV Radiation

The wool fabrics were treated by ultraviolet (UV) radiation and then dyed with Camellia sinensis (L.) O. Ktze var. waldensae (S.Y.Hu) Chang (yellow-bud tea) extract using meta-mordant dyeing method. The results indicated that the hydrophilicity of wool fabrics was improved after UV radiation treatment, which was conducive in improving color performance for the meta-mordant dyeing with yellow-bud tea extract of wool fabrics. The optimal dyeing process was that the powdered extract (5.0 % o.w.f) and the CuSO₄ (2.0 % o.w.f) were added to the dyeing liquor, the pH value was adjusted to 3.5-4.0 by HCOOH, the wool fabrics treated by UV radiation for 10 min and then were dyed at a bath ratio of 1:50 under 95 °C for 70 min. By means of three-factor quadratic current rotation revolving design (TQCRRD) method, the computation results of the mathematical equations and models indicated that UV radiation was the most important factor for meta-CuSO₄ dyeing with yellow-bud tea extract for wool fabrics.     

Dyeing and fastness properties of natural dyes extracted from eucalyptus leaves using padding techniques

A natural dye extracted from eucalyptus leaves was applied to a silk and wool fabric by the use of two padding techniques, namely the pad-batch and pad-dry techniques under different conditions. Silk and wool fabrics dyed in a solution composed of eucalyptus extract from leaves showed a shade of pale yellow to brown. The exception was when the fabric was dyed with ferrous mordant, resulting in a shade of dark grayish-brown. The fastness properties ranged from good to excellent, while light fastness was fair to good.     

Deodorizing and antibacterial performance of cotton, silk and wool fabrics dyed with Punica granatum L. extracts

Natural dye extracts were obtained by extraction from Punica granatum L. using water as an extractant at 90 °C for 90 min with various liquor ratios (solid Punica granatum L.(wt.): solvent water(wt.); 1:100–1:5). Dyeing was carried out using a 1:50 dyeing bath ratio at 80 °C for 60 min by exhaustion method. This study focused on the effect of liquor ratio on dyeing properties and deodorizing/antibacterial performance of various fabrics (cotton, silk and wool) dyed with Punica granatum L. extract without mordants. The optimum liquor ratio was found to be 1:10. By IR, UV-visible spectroscopies and HPLC analysis, the main component in Punica granatum L. extract and the yellow colorant component were found to be ellagic acid. By GC/MS analysis, the major volatile components of pristine Punica granatum L. powder were found to be acetic acid (area: 25.84 %), ethanol (area: 17.97 %), acetoin (area: 13.11 %), acetaldehyde (area: 8.96 %), isobutanal (area: 4.90 %). All dyed fabrics (cotton, silk and wool fabrics) displayed outstanding deodorizing performance (99 %) against ammonia gas and excellent antibacterial performance (bacteriostatic reduction rate: 99.9 %) against Staphylococcu aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae.     

Natural dyeing of cotton with <Emphasis Type="Italic">Xylocarpus granatum</Emphasis> bark extract: Dyeing,fastness, and ultraviolet protection properties

In this research we investigated the dyeing of cotton fabrics with extracts of Xylocarpus granatum, a mangrove plant with a long history of use in leather tanning and textile dyeing. X. granatum bark was extracted and spray-dried, yielding a tannin-rich, reddish-brown powder. This powder proved a suitable colorant for the natural dyeing of cotton with promising color fastness properties to wet treatments (washing, water, sea water, and perspiration), hot pressing, crocking, and light exposure. However, the dye alone produced only weak levels of coloration and therefore metallic salt mordants were employed to improve the color strength, through the formation of insoluble tannate complexes. The resulting fabric K/S values were dependent on the mordant used and exhibited the following trend: ferric sulfate > sodium dichromate > copper sulfate > potassium aluminum sulfate > no mordant, for fabrics exposed to mordants before and after dyeing. Mordanting resulted in slight variations in shade and color fastness. In most cases, the color fastness properties were preserved, except for color fastness to light and hot pressing, for which lowered ratings were found for some mordants. Stiffness and mechanical performance were not greatly affected by dyeing or mordanting, except for sodium dichromate mordanting which significantly stiffened and weakened the fabric. The ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) of all the dyed samples achieved the maximum (50+) level, highlighting the excellent UV shielding properties of the fabric. Overall, X. granatum bark extract is a promising, effective colorant for the natural dyeing of cotton in terms of appearance, fastness, and physical characteristics.     

Application of <Emphasis Type="Italic">Sterculia Foetida</Emphasis> Fruit Shell Waste Biomolecules on Silk for Aesthetic and Wellness Properties

There has been growing interest in the use of bioresource waste for natural dyeing and finishing. This paper discusses dye extraction from the novel source fruit shell waste of Sterculia foetida and its application on mulberry silk fabric to confer aesthetic coloration and wellness properties such as ultra-violet (UV) protection and antibacterial properties. Treated fabrics showed a substantial increase in color depth and adequate wash, light, and rubbing fastness properties for dyed silk fabrics with and without mordanting. Pre-and post-mordanting of silk fabrics were carried out using mordants such as alum, harda (myrobalan), and copper sulfate. UV-visible spectrophotometric analysis of fruit shell extract (FSE) at different pHs and FSE with three different mordants at neutral pH was used to understand the phenomena of dye-fiber interaction. The treated fabrics characterised by ATR-FTIR, SEM-EDS, and XRD analysis indicate the nature of dye fiber interaction justifying the multifunctional properties. The treated fabric also showed very good ultraviolet protection property and antibacterial properties both against S. aureus and E. coli bacteria even after ten washes. The results indicate that Sterculia foetida fruit shell extract offers an excellent potential as coloration, antibacterial, and ultraviolet protective agent for mulberry silk fabric.     

Dyeing and antibacterial properties of <Emphasis Type="Italic">Liriope platyphylla</Emphasis> fruit extracts on silk fabrics

Dyeing and antibacterial properties of a natural dye extracted from Liriope platyphylla fruit applied on silk fabrics have been studied. The total phenolic content (1109.13±69.02 mg), total flavonoid content (530.60±89.44 mg), and total anthocyanin content (492.26±77.79 mg) were measured in 100 g fresh weight of L. platyphylla fruits. In addition, ten anthocyanins and four flavanols were identified in L. platyphylla fruits by high performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection coupled with electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD/ESI-MS). A broad variation in color shade and color depth can be achieved with mixtures of dye extracts and metal mordants. Purple, blue, and pale green were main color shades of silk fabrics dyed with the extracts. The fastness of dyed silk fabrics except for control dyed fabrics against light, washing, and rubbing were acceptable with at least a grey scale rating of 3. The antibacterial activities of L. platyphylla fruit extracts were retained on dyed silk fabrics even after home washing 30 cycles. Mordanting with metal salt mordant had a positive effect on antibacterial activity of dyed silk fabrics in this study. Among them, aluminum and copper were the most effective mordants for improving antibacterial activity of silk fabrics dyed with L. platyphylla fruit extracts. The costs of natural dyeing of per silk fabrics kg by the extracts from L. platyphylla fruit were also calculated on laboratory scale.     

Dyeing properties and colour fastness of wool dyed with indicaxanthin natural dye

This research work involves the dyeing of wool with indicaxanthin, a natural dye extracted from fruits of Opuntia ficus-indica. The optimal conditions for dye extraction were to mix 50 g of Juice from cactus pears with 100 mL of 80% aqueous ethanol as solvent for dye extraction. Liquid chromatography was applied for the separation. Two main dyes were obtained, which were identified as indicaxanthin (75 mg per 50 g) and betanin (5 mg per 50 g). The effect of dye bath pH, salt concentration, dyeing time and temperature were studied. The optimal conditions for wool dyeing with indicaxanthin dye were carried out at 70 °C for 90 min with the pre-treatment of various metal salts as mordant. The colour yields of the dye on the wool were found to be highly dependent of the pH, optimum results being obtained at pH 4. The K/S of wool increased in the order of the dyeing using KAl (SO₄)₂ > MnSO₄ > CoSO₄ > FeSO₄ > none > ZnSO₄ > CuSO₄. Un-mordanted samples have good properties of water and washing fastness. Mordants KAl (SO₄)₂ and CoSO₄ were found to give good light fastness (rating 5).     

Statistical optimization of wool dyeing with Alizarin Red S as a natural dye via central composite design

Recently a revival interest in the use of natural dyes in textile coloration has been growing. The major parts of natural dyes are anthraquinones. Depending on substituents, anthraquinone compounds are dyes, as represented by Alizarin Red S (ARS) which is a major constituent of the natural colorant madder. In this study, colorization of wool fiber by ARS as a natural dye was studied. The progress of the colorization process was followed spectrophotometrically at 500 nm as λ _max. The effective factors on the process were investigated using one factor at a time (OFT) method. Then, the central composite design (CCD) method was applied to design experiments for the evaluation of the interactive effects of the four most important operating variables. The values of the optimized factors for OFT and CCD methods in wool dyeing with ARS were respectively as follow: temperature 70 °C and 55 °C, L/R: 40/1 and 40/2, pH 5.0 and 2.5 and time 60.0 min and 42.0 min. The predicted results by CCD had significantly higher exhaustion percentages and relatively better fastness properties than OFT and were found to be in a good agreement (R²=0.9908) with those obtained by performing experiments. Finally, the obtained results were shown a good wash fastness for dyed wool with ARS.     

Sonicator dyeing of natural polymers with <Emphasis Type="Italic">Symplocos spicata</Emphasis> by metal chelation

Symplocos spicata (local name: Dom sheng) belonging to Family Symplococeae produces yellowish brown natural dye which has been used for dyeing textiles since ancient times by the Monpas tribe of Arunachal Pradesh. Symplocos spicata (Dom Sheng) was found in the Lumla area of Tawang district. Leaves of the plant are used by the Monpas and Tibetans for extraction of dye. Innovative sonicator dyeing with S. spicata showed that pretreatment with 2–4% metal mordant of the weight of the fabric is optimum showing very good fastness properties for dyed natural polymers such as cotton, wool, and silk. CIELab and K/S of the dyed fabrics were also evaluated. The superiority of sonicator dyeing over conventional dyeing has been established through this study.     

Eco-friendly dyeing using natural mordant extracted from <Emphasis Type="Italic">Emblica officinalis G</Emphasis>. Fruit on cotton and silk fabrics with antibacterial activity

Emblica officinalis G. dried fruit tannin was extracted and applied as a natural mordant alone and in combination with metal mordant namely copper sulphate for dyeing on cotton and silk fabrics using natural dyes. The color strength, color-coordinates, wash and light fastness were also evaluated for cotton and silk fabrics with and without mordanting. The pre-mordanted cotton and silk fabrics on dyeing gave better color strength, wash and light fastness than those dyeing obtained without mordanting. The total phenolic content of the extract was calculated. Cotton and silk fabrics resulted in good antibacterial activity using the Emblica officinalis G. mordant. When mordant was used along with 0.5 and 1 % copper sulphate mordant and the activity enhanced and was active up to 20 washes.     

Ultrasound assisted extraction of natural dyes and natural mordants vis a vis dyeing

Most of the natural dyes require mordants for their fixation on textile materials. Natural mordants are thus gaining importance in order to get complete-natural dyeing. In the present work, natural dyes and mordants were extracted using conventional and ultrasound methods and comparative studies were made. The natural mordants namely harda and tamarind seed coat and natural dyes like turmeric, henna were extracted using conventional and ultrasound approaches and various extracts obtained were described in terms of their optical densities. In order to verify the extraction efficiencies, wool fabrics were dyed with extracts of various combinations of mordants/dyes and dyed fabrics were evaluated for their colour strengths and fastness properties. The extent of colour extraction was higher in case of ultrasound assisted extraction as compared to that of conventional method. The fabrics dyed using extracts of ultrasound method showed higher colour values as compared to those dyed using extracts from conventional methods thus confirming ultrasound as more efficient method of extraction.