Analysis and in-plane shear characterization of polyester plain fabric by yarn pull-out method

The aim of this study was to determine the in-plane shear properties of polyester fabric by the pull-out method and analytical relations were developed to calculate the shearing properties. After the yarn in the fabric was pulled from the top ravel region before the start of the crimp extension stage, it was found that fabric shear strength and rigidity increased when the number of pulled ends increased. In addition, when the fabric width and length increased, fabric shear strength and rigidity increased. On the other hand, the shear strength and rigidity values in untreated fabric were high compared to that of treated fabric due to the fabric treatments by softening agent. It was observed that fabric sample dimensions and the number of pull-out ends as well as the fabric treatments influenced fabric shear strength and rigidity. Also, the shear jamming angles were found to be based on the number of pulled ends. Fabric local shearing properties could be identified by pulling the yarn ends in various regions of the fabric. This could be important for the handling of the fabric during formation. The results generated from this study showed that polyester fabric shear could be measured by the yarn pull-out test.     

Pull-out properties of polyester woven fabrics: Effects of softening agent and interlacement on single and multiple yarn pull-out forces and analysis by statistical model

The aim of this study was to understand the effects of softening treatment on pull-out properties of plain, ribs and satin fabrics. Polyester woven fabrics were used to conduct the pull-out tests. Data generated from these tests included pullout force, crimp extension and fabric displacement. A developed yarn pull-out fixture was used to perform single and multiple pull-out tests on treated and untreated polyester fabrics. Yarn pull-out forces depend on fabric treatments, fabric density, fabric weave, and the number of pulled ends in the fabric. The results of regression model showed that multiple and single yarn pull-out forces of treated fabrics were lower than those of untreated fabrics. The multiple yarn pull-out force was higher than that of the single yarn pull-out force, and that dense fabric had a high pull-out force. Treated and untreated plain fabrics had high single and multiple pull-out forces compared to those of treated and untreated ribs and satin fabrics. Yarn crimp extension depends on directional crimp ratios in the fabric and the number of pulled yarn ends. High directional crimp ratio fabric showed high directional yarn crimp extension. Fabric displacement depends on the number of pulled yarn ends and also fabric treatments. Fabric displacement in multiple pull-out tests showed high fabric displacement compared to that of single pull-out tests. On the other hand, the regression model could be used in this study as a viable and reliable tool.     

Properties of stick-slip stage of yarn pull-out in para-aramid woven fabric

The aim of this study was to understand stick-slip properties of para-aramid woven fabrics. For this reason, pullout test was conducted on para-aramid Kevlar®29 and Kevlar®129 woven fabrics. The stick-slip and accumulative retraction force regions were defined based on the force-displacement curve. It was found that the stick-slip force and accumulative retraction force depended on fabric density and the number of pulled ends in the fabric. Stick-slip force in the multiple yarn pull-out test was higher than those of the single yarn pull-out test. Stick-slip force in single and multiple yarn pull-out tests in the dense K29 fabric were higher than those of the loose K129 fabric. In addition, long fabric samples showed high stick-slip force compared to that of the short fabric samples. On the other hand, the amount of stick-slip force was related to the number of interlacement points in the fabric whereas the amount of accumulative retraction force was related to fabric structural response.     

Effects of sample dimensions on pull-out properties of woven fabric structures

The aim of this study was to understand the effects of fabric sample dimensions on pull-out properties of fabric weaves. Polyester woven fabrics were used to conduct the pull-out tests. A yarn pull-out fixture was developed and data generated from this research. Yarn pull-out forces depend on sample dimensions, fabric density, fabric weave, and number of pulled ends in the fabric. Results showed that multiple and single yarn pull-out forces of long samples were higher than those of short samples, and the multiple yarn pull-out force was higher than that of the single yarn pull-out force, and dense fabric has high pull-out force. Plain fabric weave showed high single and multiple pull-out forces compared to ribs and satin fabric weaves. The regression model could be used in this study as a viable and reliable tool. This research could be valuable for development of multifunctional fabrics in technical textile applications.     

Characterizations of stick-slip stage of yarn pull-out in dry and softening treated polyester plain woven fabric

The aim of this study was to understand the stick-slip properties of polyester plain woven fabric. For this reason, pull-out test was conducted on dry and softening treated polyester woven fabrics. It was found that stick-slip force and accumulative retraction force depend on the number of pulled ends in the fabric, fabric sample dimensions and softening treatments. Stick-slip forces of polyester fabric in the multiple yarn pull-out test were higher than those of the single yarn pull-out test. Stick-slip force in single and multiple yarn pull-out tests in the dry polyester plain fabric were generally higher than those of the softening treated polyester plain fabric. On the other hand, the amount of stick-slip force was related to the number of interlacement points in the fabric whereas the amount of accumulative retraction force was related to fabric structural response.     

Effect of surface treatment on the structure and properties of para-aramid fibers by phosphoric acid

The surface of para-aramid fiber was modified by phosphoric acid solutions (H3PO4) based on an orthogonal experimental design and analysis method. Statistical results indicate that treatment temperature is the most significant variable in the modification processing, while treatment time was the least important factor. The structure and morphology of the modified fiber were characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS), X-ray diffraction instrument (XRD), and scanning electron microscope (SEM). The results showed that some polar groups were introduced into the molecular structure of aramid fibers and the physical structure of the treated fibers was not etched obviously. The interfacial properties of aramid fiber/epoxy composites were investigated by the single fiber pull-out test (SFP), and the mechanical properties of aramid fibers were investigated by the tensile strength test. The results showed that the interfacial shear strength (IFSS) of aramid/epoxy composites was remarkably improved and the breaking strength of aramid fibers was not affected appreciably after surface modification.     

Drape simulation of three-dimensional virtual garment enabling fabric properties

This study analyzes how the silhouette of virtual garments applied to virtual avatars is altered according to various virtual fabric properties. This study measures the properties of real fabrics that include a charmeuse (#F1) and gabardine (#F2) using the Fabric Analysis by Simple Testing system; in addition, the material properties of different real fabrics were applied to that of the virtual fabric. It then evaluates the drape stiffness and silhouette of the virtual garments according to the different fabrics. This study also compared the virtual garment silhouette of sample fabric #F1-S that changed only the stretch property of the sample fabric #F1 with the virtual garment silhouette of sample fabric #F1. The results show that the fabric properties including bend, thickness, weight, stretch, shear values affect the drape stiffness, silhouette, and fit of the virtual garment simulated on virtual avatars and may be used for the realistic virtual garment technology.     

Mechanical properties and hand evaluation of hemp woven fabrics treated with liquid ammonia

The effects of liquid ammonia (L/A) treatment on the mechanical properties and hand of 100 % hemp woven fabrics were investigated by the KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric). Tensile energy and tensile resilience were increased by the L/A treatment. Bending and shearing values such as bending rigidity, bending moment, shear stiffness, shear hysteresis of the L/A treated fabrics were lower than those of the untreated ones. Compressional linearity and compressional energy were decreased while the compressional resilience was increased by the L/A treatment. From the hand evaluation, the primary hand values as well as total hand value of the hemp fabric were markedly increased by the L/A treatment, especially when yarn number was fine. Therefore, L/A treatment was found to be an effective method of improving the flexibility and softness of hemp woven fabrics.     

Dimensional properties of low temperature plasma and silicone treated wool fabric

Three different silicone polymer systems, such as aminofunctional, epoxyfunctional, and hydrophilic epoxyfunctional silicone polymers, were applied onto plasma pretreated wool fabric to improve the dimensional properties. The results showed that the plasma pretreatment modified the cuticle surface of the wool fiber and increased the reactivity of wool fabric toward silicone polymers. Felting shrinkage of plasma and silicone treated wool fabric was decreased with different level depending on the applied polymer system. Fabric tear strength and hand were adversely affected by plasma treatment, but these properties were favorably restored on polymer application. Therefore, it has been concluded that the combination of plasma and silicone treatments can achieve the improved dimensional stability, and better performance properties of wool fabric. The surface smoothness appearances of treated fabrics were measured using a new evaluation system, which showed good correspondence with the results of KES-FB4 surface tester.     

Deformation analysis of composite reinforcing fabrics through yarn pull-out, drape and shear tests

This study reveals a new method based on image processing of bias extension test results to determine shear angle that characterizes the shear properties of fabric reinforcements. This way the simple and exact determination of shear angle with conventional devices is solved. The new method was tested on fabric reinforcements made of carbon, aramid and glass fibers and the results were compared with that of two known versions of bias extension tests. The analysis of the relation between shear angle and other deformation properties that characterize spatial deformation behavior involved the comparison of shear test results with yarn pull-out and drape tests carried out with special methods.     

Effect of weaving process on tensile characterization of single and multiple ends of air-entangled textured polyester yarns

The tensile properties of air-entangled textured polyester single and multiple yarn ends before and after weaving were analyzed. The effects of weaving process considering fabric unit cell interlacement and number of yarn ends were evaluated by regression model. For this purpose, plain, ribs and satin woven fabrics were produced. The yarns were raveled from fabrics, and the tensile tests were applied to these yarns. The developed regression model showed that the number of interlacement and crimp ratio on the warp and weft yarns influence their tensile strength. Tensile strength of raveled yarns decreased compared to that of the bobbin yarn due to the effect of weaving process. This property degradation on the ravel yarns considered process degradation. Generally, when the number of warp and weft yarn ends increases, the warp and weft yarn tensile strengths for each fabric type decrease, whereas the warp and weft yarn tensile elongations slightly increase. The results from regression model were compared with the measured values. This study confirmed that the method in the study can be a viable and reliable tool. The research finding could be useful those who work on preform fabrication.     

Analysis and tensile characterization of air-entangled textured polyester woven fabrics depending on interlacement and yarn sets

The aim of this study was to understand the failure mechanism of two dimensional dry fabric structure considering yarn sets and interlacements. For this purpose, data generated on air-entangled textured polyester woven fabric under the simple tensile load and analyzed by developed regression model. The regression model showed that warp and weft directional tensile strengths of satin fabric were higher than those of plain and rib fabrics in unravel sample. This might be related to the number of interlacements of the fabrics. There was not a considerable difference between warp directional tensile strength of ravel and unravel satin fabrics, whereas weft directional tensile strength of ravel satin fabric decreased rapidly with respect to its unravel form. The satin fabric showed the highest warp directional tensile strength among the others. The lowest weft directional tensile strength was received from ribs fabric. In semi-ravel sample, all fabrics showed low warp and weft directional tensile strength values except in plain fabric. Warp directional tensile elongation of plain fabric was the highest in unravel sample. Satin fabric showed the highest warp directional tensile elongation in the ravel sample. Warp directional tensile elongations of all the fabrics in the semi-ravel sample became low. Weft directional tensile elongation of satin fabric was the highest in unravel sample. In addition, satin and plain fabrics showed the highest weft directional tensile elongations in the ravel sample. Weft directional tensile elongations of all the fabrics in the semi-ravel sample became low except in ribs fabric.     

In-situ growth of ZnO particles on bamboo pulp fabric and its anti-UV property

This research presents a simple way to enhance the anti-UV property of bamboo pulp fabric trough in situ synthesis of ZnO particles on the fabric. Bamboo Pulp Fabric was treated by immersion method in Zn(NO₃)₂ and multi-amide compound (RSD) aqueous solution under hydrothermal condition, then the ZnO particles were grown on the surface of bamboo pulp fabric by in-situ method. In this synthesis RSD was applied as a stabilizer, reactant and dispersant agent, the reaction mechanism was investigated. The ZnO particles were characterized by transmission electron microscope (TEM), Xray diffraction (XRD) and ultraviolet/visible light spectrophotometer. The anti-UV property of Bamboo Pulp Fabric was characterized by measuring its UPF. The results indicated that the diameter of ZnO is about 150 nm, the length is about 600 nm. The Bamboo Pulp Fabric treated with ZnO particles showed good anti-UV property and its UPF can reach to 83.59. After washing for 20 times, it can also keep good anti-UV property.     

Sensory evaluation of fabric touch by free modulus magnitude estimation

Fabric touch was evaluated psychophysically in order to determine the relationship between mechanical properties and subjective sensation. For subjective touch sensation, eight aspects such as hardness, smoothness, coarseness, coolness, pliability, crispness, heaviness and thickness were evaluated using free modulus magnitude estimation (FMME) technique. KES-FB was used to measure the mechanical properties of fabrics. Woolen fabric with the highest values of WC and weight was evaluated as the coarsest, heaviest and thickest. While silk crepe de chine with the lowest LT, G, 2HG, thickness and weight was rated as smoother and more pliable than any other fabrics. And flax with the highest values of LT and SMD was evaluated as hard, cool and crisp. Fabric touch and satisfaction were predicted well from the mechanical properties, especially from SMD, by regression analysis. Satisfaction for touch increased as smoothness increased.     

Formability analysis of worsted woven fabrics considering fabric direction

Over years predicting fabric behaviour during garment manufacturing process was considered by researchers in order to reduce manufacturing problems and achieve high quality products. Fabric formability which is affected by bending and tensile behaviour through the application of small loads is a property which can predict fabric performance precisely. However, this property changes regarding fabric direction and is not constant. In this study, fabric formability is examined for worsted woven fabrics in a more detailed way by evaluating this property in various fabric directions. It was concluded that fabric formability could be expressed as a sinusoidal function of sample orientation towards warp direction. Moreover, studying several weave structures with different weft densities reveals that the less the firmness of fabric construction the more the value of fabric formability which indicates the better adaption of fabric to the exerted deformation.     

Taguchi analysis of fabric shrinkage

This article reports on the effects of fabric constructional factors such as fabric sett, warp tension, back rest position, and pick insertion rate, on the warp-way and weft-way shrinkages of a three-up-one-down twill woven fabric using a Taguchi design of experiments. It was observed that the fabric shrinkage in the warp direction was mostly affected by the change in the number of picks per inch, followed by warp tension, number of ends per inch, number of picks per minute, and back rest position, respectively. The fabric shrinkage in the weft direction was found to be mostly affected by the change in number of ends per inch, followed by number of picks per inch, back rest position, number of picks per minute, respectively and least affected by warp tension. It was observed that the aforesaid five factors were able to explain 99.02 % and 82.81 % of the total variation of fabric shrinkage in the warp and weft directions, respectively.     

Flexural stiffness of core spun cotton/spandex weft knitted structures under relaxation and machine washing treatments

In this research work, behavior of flexural stiffness of core spun cotton spandex single jersey, 1x1 rib and interlock fabrics was studied under relaxation and machine washing treatments. Results are compared with similar fabrics made from 100 % cotton. Fabric weight density increased with the progression of treatments and it is proportionate to the fabric tightness factor (stitch length^?1). Even though both types of fabrics had same machine set stitch lengths, cotton/spandex fabrics have shown the higher fabric weight densities than that of 100 % cotton fabrics. Although 1x1 rib and single jersey fabrics knitted with the same machine set stitch lengths, rib fabrics have given higher fabric weight densities than single jersey fabrics. Among the three knitted structures, interlock fabrics with higher machine set stitch lengths gave the higher fabric weights. Fabric stiffness and flexural rigidity have given higher values under the progression of treatments and it was found that higher values of stiffness have given by cotton/spandex knitted fabrics compared to their cotton fabrics. Fabric stiffness and flexural rigidity in wale direction were higher than that in course direction, but it is only observed in single jersey fabrics. However, 1x1 rib and interlock fabrics have shown an opposite behavior. It was also observed a positive correlation between TF (i.e.: stitch length^?1) and bending length/flexural rigidity in both fabric types. Lower flexural rigidities reported with single jersey structures and highest values gave with interlock structures of cotton/spandex and cotton fabrics.     

Prediction models for audible distance using mechanical and psychoacoustic parameters of combat uniform fabrics

A short audible distance for the rustling sound of combat uniform fabric helps to reduce soldiers’ exposure to the enemy forces. The objectives of this study were to evaluate mechanical properties and sound characteristics of combat uniform fabrics, to investigate their influence on audible distance at which fabric’s rustling sound can be reached to human ear, and to establish prediction models for audible distance using mechanical and psychoacoustic parameters. Six types of combat uniform fabrics were used as test specimen. Mechanical properties of the specimens were measured according to the KES-FB system and the acoustic characteristics of the fabrics were analyzed by the Sound Quality System. Audible distances of the fabric sounds were assessed by 30 male soldiers. The audible distances were determined by the distance of which the participants walked away from a starting point in a straight line until they could not hear the sound. Water repellent finished fabric (W-WR), which showed the highest values of bending rigidity, shear stiffness, sound pressure level, loudness(Z) and sharpness(Z) among all fabrics, had the longist audible distance. Fabric for summer season (W-S) had the shortest audible distance in all frictional speed levels, which indicates the best auditory camouflage performance. Coefficient of friction was chosen as the variable affecting loudness(Z) of fabric sounds. Loudness(Z) was finally chosen as the prediction parameter for the audible distance by path analysis.     

Comparative study of cellulase treatment on low stress mechanical properties of cotton denim fabric made by torque-free ring spun yarn

Cellulase is useful for bio-polishing cotton fabrics which enhances their aesthetic performance instead of stonewashing process. Torque-free ring spun process is a widely used technique to produce newly low-twist and balanced torque yarns with soft hand. In this paper, denim fabrics woven with torque-free ring spun yarn and conventional ring spun yarn respectively were treated with cellulase under the same condition and their fabric handle, expressed as low stress mechanical properties, such as tensile strength, bending, shearing, compression and surface performance were investigated by Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F). After cellulase treatment, both denim fabrics revealed better flexibility, elasticity recovery, raised shearing stiffness, fluffier and improved smoothness. While torque-free ring spun yarn made denim fabric showed a better fabric handle than conventional ring spun yarn made denim fabric.     

Transfer printing with disperse dyes on cotton fabric modified with an aqueous tolylene diisocyanate derivative

Transfer printing with disperse dyes on cotton fabric modified with an aqueous tolylene diisocyanate derivative (TDD) was discussed in this paper. The effect of the degree of substitution (DS) on color strength (K/S value) of the modified and transfer printed fabric was investigated. The DS of the cotton fabric increased with increases in TDD concentration and curing temperature and time, while the sample whiteness decreased with the increasing curing temperature and time. And the change of structure of the modified cotton fabric was characterized by FT-IR spectra, DSC curves, and SEM images. All of the factors, such as the concentration and molecular weight of poly(ethylene glycol), the DS of the modified fabric, the transfer printing temperature and time would affect the K/S value of the sample. After transfer printing with disperse dye, the K/S value and printing fastness of TDD-modified cotton fabric were higher than those of cotton control fabric, the change of chromatic difference was not obvious, but the tensile strength of the modified fabric was lower than that of original cotton.