Colorimetric properties and color sensibility of naturally colored organic cotton fabrics

This study was done to propose color conditions and fabrics that satisfy the particular sensibilities of consumers and producers through an analysis of color sensibility factors for an environmentally-friendly material, i.e., naturally colored organic cotton (NaCOC) fabrics. Toward that end, the colorimetric properties of eight NaCOC fabrics were measured, and the fabrics?? subjective color sensibilities were evaluated. In addition, based on the relationship between the colorimetric properties and subjective color sensibilities, the prediction models for color sensibilities of NaCOC fabrics were developed. According to the established models, hard-soft, cool-warm, deep-pale, vague-distinct, plain-showy, and subdued-vivid sensibilities can be predicted by some variables of colorimetric properties such as L*, a*, C*, and h. As another ultimate goal of this study, suitable NaCOC fabrics to evoke certain sensibilities were proposed by multidimensional scaling method. The proposed fabrics and color sensibility factors are believed to offer an important guideline for those who design clothing products made of NaCOC.     

Intergenerational differences of color sensation and preference for naturally dyed fabrics

This study was performed in order to evaluate subjective color sensation and preference for yellowish and reddish natural dye fabrics and to provide meaningful objective colorimetric properties which can quantify the sensation and preference focused on intergenerational differences. Among lots of natural dye silk fabrics, four differently dyed fabrics for each hue were used as specimens by cluster analysis. College students as younger generation and high school teachers as middle-aged evaluated them subjectively in terms of eight aspects color sensation such as clearness, lightness, depth, warmth, strength, brightness, hardness, and fragrance. Intergenerational differences appeared more frequently as for the lightest and the most saturated yellowish fabrics dyed with amur cork than any other fabrics. All of sensation and preference were significantly explained by some colorimetric properties for each generation. Color lightness, L* was the only positive predictor for color preference of younger generation’s preference whereas color saturation, C* illustrated negatively for that of middle-aged.     

Assessment of color strength and color difference values of polyester fabrics containing continuous weft yarns after abrasion

This paper assesses the color difference and color strength values (K/S) obtained for eight disperse-dyed polyester fabric samples with different fabric construction parameters (weft yarn type, weft yarn count, weft density and fabric weave) after four sets of abrasion cycles. Warp yarn type and count, warp density, and warp yarn twist are the same for all fabrics. Fabric samples are dyed in a commercial red disperse dye (C.I. Disperse Red 74:1) and four different abrasion cycles (2500, 5000, 7500, 10000) are used. TheK/S values of the abraided fabrics and color difference values between the control fabric (dyed but not abraided) and abraded fabrics are calculated. The main differences in theK/S and color difference values are observed between 0–2500 abrasion cycles. The high tenacity of the polyester fibers and continuous polyester yarns causes some fuzz but no pilling formation on the fabric surface that lead to increasedK/S values and color differences. Fiber dullness, yarn thickness, yarn density and fabric weave are concluded to have different effects on the appearance after abrasion.     

Investigating the effect of Water-oil repellency finish on baby clothes

In this paper, fuzzy logic method was used to model the effect of stain repellent treatment on plush knitted fabrics intended for baby clothes. In order to reduce the complexity of the models and increase the knowledge and comprehension of the underlying process, a fuzzy sensitivity variation criterion was used to select the most relevant parameters which are taken as inputs of the reduced fuzzy logic models. The outputs are the water-oil contact angles characterizing the stain repellent behavior of fabrics and the percentage of decrease of air permeability to control the change of hygienic comfort. Obtained results showed that the hydrophilic samples were transformed to water-oil repellent ones and some experimental conditions induce a high contact angle without affecting the air permeability.     

A psychophysical approach to color sensory evaluation of yellowish natural dye fabrics

The objectives of this study were to evaluate color sensation for yellowish natural dye fabrics using magnitude estimation to determine physical colorimetric factors significantly related to human sensibility by establishing power function in psychophysical analysis. Fourteen different yellowish fabrics dyed with natural colorants were selected as stimuli. Subjective color sensations including brightness, heaviness, softness, strength, warmth, activeness, classicalness, femininity, and pleasantness for each stimulus were subjectively evaluated by using fixed magnitude estimation. As results, yellowish natural dye fabrics in general seemed to evoke feeling of brightness, femininity, and pleasantness more strongly than that of heaviness and classicalness. Most of color sensations were significantly related with more than one of physical color properties, which leads to establishing reliable power functions between them. Color lightness, L* was found as a dominant physical attribute which affects subjective sensation such as brightness, femininity, and pleasantness. Subjective activeness was explained by physical yellowness, b*, whereas both strength and classicalness were by color saturation, C* even though it described strength positively while it did classicalness negatively. In the power functions, these relationships could be utilized to design color-sensible natural dye textiles.     

Evaluation of scanner capability for measuring the color of fabrics with different textures in different setups

The influence of surface texture on the perceived color by a flatbed scanner is investigated. Knitted fabrics with 8 different textures in variety of colors are prepared and used in scanning trial along with standard chart, i.e. IT8.7/2 from Kodak. According to the results, the scanner detects different RGB values for different textures which are weaved from same colored yarns. The means of R, G and B values are considered as a feature vector which shows the dominant color of each sample. Samples are scanned with different resolutions and it is found that scanning resolution does not change the extracted color feature vector. The IT8.7/2 standard target which benefits from non textural solid surface and fabrics with specific surface texture are used for colorimetric characterization of scanner and the capability of scanner for estimation of color coordinates of samples with different textures is examined. It is found that the characterization of scanner with textured target improves the scanner accuracy for the color of textured materials. It is shown that the texture of media has a great effect on the characterization results and there is relatively good correlation between the structural differences of textures of fabrics used in training and testing steps with the mean of testing color difference values. To achieve a better color reproduction results for fabrics, scanner characterization should be performed for each set of fabrics with specific texture. In this case, increasing the bit depth of captured image in the scanning process leads to decrease of the mean of color difference value for training and testing packages.     

Investigation on the effect of titanium dioxide nano particles on camouflage properties of cotton fabrics

Cotton fabrics were dyed with three commercial vat dyes in order to provide camouflage in Vis-NIR regions and imitate reflectance profile of greenish leaves. To investigate the effect of nano particles on camouflage properties of dyed fabric, nano particles of TiO₂ were applied on dyed fabrics using pad-dry-cure method. The nano TiO₂ padded dyed fabrics were investigated using scanning electron microscopy (SEM). Reflectance curves of coated dyed samples with different concentrations of nano TiO₂ were measured. Results showed that in both of the standard shades, nano TiO₂ increases the reflectance value in NIR region and with increasing the concentration of nano TiO₂, the reflectance curves of samples tend to show the maximum reflection of greenish leaves (deciduous leaves) in NIR region. Chromatic values (CIE1976 L*, a*, and b*) and color difference (according to CIECMC color difference ΔE*cmc (2:1)) of each of the coated samples were measured using the reflection spectrophotometer. By considering the influence of white color of nano TiO₂ on green shade of dyed cotton fabrics and increasing the color difference (between coated samples and the standard shades of the 1948 U.S army pattern) in visible range, optimum concentrations of nano TiO₂ for development of camouflage properties on cotton fabrics in both NIR and visible region were determined. These values for NATO and forest green shades were 0.75 % and 0.5 %, respectively. Fastness results showed that both of the samples have acceptable color fastness. The effect of washing and exposure to light on camouflage properties of coated dyed fabrics in visible (in term of chromatic values) and NIR region (in term of spectral reflectance) was investigated when those were coated in optimum concentrations of nano TiO₂. The results showed that the effect of after treatments (washing and exposure to light) on surface color spectral characteristics and camouflage properties was inconsiderable.     

Investigation of the effect of continuous finishing on the mechanical properties and the handle of wool fabrics

The effect of scouring, bleaching and dyeing on the low stress mechanical and surface properties of wool woven fabrics was studied. Fabric properties were measured by the KES-FB system. In general, mechanical properties of the treated fabrics are greatly affected by scouring, moderately by dyeing and least by bleaching.     

Cross-cultural study of color sensation and sensibility for Korean traditional fabrics with natural indigo dyeing

This study focused on fabric planning for environment-friendly fashion products for the international market. In order to achieve this objective, some Korean traditional fabrics (Mosee and Myungjoo) with natural indigo dye were selected and they were evaluated in terms of subjective color sensation and sensibility by two cultural groups (Korean and American college students). Also, color preference for the natural dye fabrics by each cultural group was predicted by colorimetric properties, color sensation, and color sensibility factors. Most bluish fabrics dyed with natural indigo colorants were likely to provide a cold and strong sensation. There were partially significant differences in terms of color sensation among six fabrics. The color sensibility for the naturally dyed fabrics was classified into three factors: ‘Classic’, Romantic’, and ‘Unique’. The color sensibility factor ‘Classic’ was the dominant factor for the naturally dyed fabrics with indigo colorant. There were cultural differences in terms of color sensation and color sensibility factors between Korean and American university students. Color preference of dyed fabrics with natural indigo was found to be influenced mainly by the color sensibility factors among colorimetric properties, color sensation, and color sensibility.     

The effect of different connections in double layered woven fabrics on comfort properties

With the increasing demand of fabrics for special usage areas, more complex woven structures are designed and from the structural point of view, especially the parameters which affect the comfort properties become more important. This paper reports the effect of structural parameters of double layered woven fabrics, such as number of interlacing picks, period of interlacing and number of weft skips on the basic comfort properties of the fabrics (thickness, air permeability and wicking properties) produced according to Taguchi orthogonal array design. The investigated parameters were determined before and after finishing treatment. According to the results, it is found that period of interlacing has an important effect on the thickness and air permeability of both untreated and treated fabrics whereas in terms of drying coefficient, the effect of the investigated parameters is not statistically important.     

The effect of biodegradable organic acids on the improvement of cotton ink-jet printing and antibacterial activity

In this study, various biodegradable organic acids with varying numbers of carboxylic acid groups were incorporated into the ink formulation both in the presence and absence of sodium hypophosphite (SHP) to investigate the colour yield and antibacterial properties. Ink-jet prints on cotton fabric, which were either pretreated (industry standard practice) or non-pretreated, were analyzed to determine if there is a significant difference in their properties. Antibacterial activities and dye fixation of printed cotton fabrics were also tested. The results indicated that at optimum pH, the non-pre-treated samples printed with ink formulations containing more carboxylic acid groups in their structure (BTCA) in the absence of SHP, demonstrated higher levels of reactive dye fixation and antibacterial properties than pre-treated samples containing no biodegradable organic acid in the ink formulation. The printed cotton fabrics with ink formulation that contained BTCA without dye were characterized by ATR-FTIR and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and their morphology was investigated through the use of SEM to determine if cross-linking had taken place.     

The effect of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness of polyester fabrics

The effects of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness values of textured polyester woven fabrics with different constructional parameters were investigated. The warp yarn properties (type, count and warp density) were kept constant while the effect of variation in weft yarn density and weave pattern were studied. Measurements were conducted on pre-treated white fabric samples and the results assessed in relation to their constructional properties. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness values of polyester fabrics affected by fabric balance and fabric cover and the effects were related to fabric thickness, yarn densities, yarn crimp, positioning of yarns in fabric structure. A change in weave pattern from sateen to plain increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased the surface roughness. Similarly, an increase in weft density increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased surface roughness. In order to produce fabrics with smooth surface properties yarn density should be increased, yarn float lengths decreased, cover of fabrics increased and fabric balance improved.     

A general geometrical model for predicting color mixing of woven fabrics from colored warp and filling yarns

Despite the advances in woven fabrics, CAD systems, and weaving technologies, the process of weave/color selection for each area of a Jacquard pattern still requires the intervention of the CAD system operator and/or designer, who works from color gamut. Relying on the designer subjective assessment, multiple weaving trials may be needed to produce a fabric that matches the target artwork or sample. In this paper, a general geometric model is provided to predict the color contribution of warp and filling yarns of a given woven fabric in terms of warp and pick densities, warp and filling yarns sizes, weave, size of the color repeat of warp and filling yarns, and the number of yarns of different colors. Such geometrical modeling, combined with sound existing color mixing equations, paves the road for the automation of the process of weaves and color selection and thus dramatically reduces the production cycle.     

Using nonwoven fabrics as culture mediums for extensive green roofs: physical properties and cooling effect

Based on the requirements of extensive green roofs, ploylactide (PLA) fibers, cotton fibers, polyester (PET), and low-melting-point LMPET fibers are combined and produced culture mediums for Crassulaceae plants. The resulting mediums are tested for their physical properties and found to be light weight, which is a required condition for plant growth. These features contribute to efficient construction and maintenance. In addition, the optimal cooling effect of the culture mediums is 9.6 °C, which significantly reduces the amount of heat that invades indoor spaces. The decrease in the amount of heat indoors results in a lower demand for air conditioning so as to achieve energy conservation. The results derived from this study help in the promotion of green roofs, thereby slowing down the urban heat island effect and global warming.     

Action of a finishing product in the improvement of the ultraviolet protection provided by modal and modal sun fabrics: Modelisation of the effect

The ultraviolet protection factor of a fabric is a quantitative measurement of the effectiveness of the fabric to protect the human skin against ultraviolet radiation. The protection provided by uncoloured cellulosic fabrics is, in general, too low, but can be improved by the finishing treatment with UV-absorbers. In the present paper Modal and Modal Sun fabrics with different compactness, and hence with different initial Ultraviolet Protection Factor values, are treated with several concentrations of an UV-absorber, according to a predefined experimental plan. The influence of each variable as well as their interaction on the response ultraviolet protection factor is analysed and a statistical model for predictions is proposed.     

Investigating the effect of yarn count and twist factor on the packing density and wicking height of lyocell ring-spun yarns

The moisture transport expressed with wicking is one of the most important aspects in clothing science and strongly effects on the quality of clothes. Wicking is a spontaneous transport of liquid driven into a porous system by capillary forces. Furthermore, the packing density has a direct relation with the yarn structure. At the present work, the effects of yarn count and twist factor on the wicking height and packing density of lyocell ring-spun yarns was investigated. Achieving the objectives of this research, an image processing method was developed to determine the packing density of samples. Experimental results were also used to develop a regression model to predict the wicking height based on the packing density, yarn count, twist factor and rising time. The results demonstrated that the correlation coefficient between the predicted and measured wicking height was 0.98 indicating the capability of the presented model to predict the wicking height of lyocell ring-spun yarns.     

The effect of etching on low-stress mechanical properties of polypropylene fabrics under helium/oxygen atmospheric pressure plasma

Polypropylene nonwoven fabrics were exposed to He/O₂ atmospheric pressure glow discharge plasma. Surface chemical analysis and contact angle measurement revealed the surface oxidation by formation of new functional groups after plasma treatment. Weight loss (%) measurement and scanning electron microscopy analysis showed a significant plasma etching effect. It was investigated in low-stress mechanical properties of the fabrics using Kawabata Evaluation System (KES-FB). The surface morphology change by plasma treatment increased surface friction due to an enhancement of fiber-to-fiber friction, resulting in change of other low-stress mechanical properties of fabric.     

The effect of carbon black nanoparticles on some properties of air plasma printed cotton/polyamide 6 fabrics

In this study, cotton/nylon blended fabrics were treated with atmospheric air plasma at various times (30–60 s) and were subsequently printed with pastes containing carbon black nanoparticles. Properties of plasma treated fabrics such as visible-near infrared (Vis-NIR) reflectance, water contact angle, air permeability, and color fastness were measured. It was shown that increasing plasma treatment time decreases reflection level of treated fabrics in Vis-NIR region. Plasma treatment also enhanced the hydrophobicity of cotton/nylon fabrics observed by an increase in water contact angle. Plasma treated samples for 60 s demonstrated lower air permeability than those treated for 30 s. Furthermore, printed samples possessed acceptable levels of fastness against washing, light and crocking.     

大豆油墨的研究概况

本文简要地介绍了大豆油墨的研发历史、功能特性及应用现状 ,大豆油墨的研发是油脂行业对环保的一份贡献。     

The comparison of the effect of enzyme, peroxide, plasma and chitosan processes on wool fabrics and evaluation for antimicrobial activity

Pretreated (enzymatic and enzymatic+hydrogen peroxide) knitted wool fabrics were treated with atmospheric argon and air plasma to improve their adsorption capacity. After plasma treatments chitosan solution was applied to have antimicrobial effect on wool fabrics. The treated fabrics were evaluated in terms of washing stability as well as antimicrobial activity. The surface morphology was characterised by SEM images and FTIR analysis. From the results it was observed that atmospheric plasma treatment had an etching effect and increased the functionality of a wool surface. Atmospheric plasma treatment also enhanced the adhesion of chitosan to the surface and improved the antimicrobial activity of the wool sample. Argon was found to be more effective than air, since argon radicals played an important role in killing and removing bacteria. No significant difference in washing durability was observed in terms of plasma treatments. The samples of combined pretreatment processes had good washing durability even after 10 washing cycle. From the SEM images it was observed that combination of plasma and the other pre-treatment processes gave less damage than only one process.