Predicting the air permeability of polyester/cotton blended woven fabrics

The aim of this study was to model the air permeability of polyester cotton blended woven fabrics. Fabrics of varying construction parameters i.e. yarn linear densities and thread densities were selected and tested for air permeability, fabric areal density and fabric thickness. A total of 135 different fabric constructions were tested among which 117 were allocated for development of prediction model while the remaining were utilized for its validation. Four variables were selected as input parameters on basis of statistical analysis i.e. warp yarn linear density, weft yarn linear density, ends per 25 mm and picks per 25 mm. Response surface regression was applied on the collected data set in order to develop the prediction model of the selected variables. The model showed satisfactory predictability when applied on unseen data and yielded an absolute average error of 5.1 %. The developed model can be effectively used for prediction of air permeability of the woven fabrics.     

Assessing the relationship among fabric constructional parameters, fractional reflectances and cover factors of polyester fabrics by experimental and mathematical methods

This paper focuses on the assessment of the relation among constructional properties, fractional reflectances and cover factors of fabrics woven from polyester yarns. A novel equation for the calculation of the relation between fractional reflectance and fabric cover factor was proposed and the usage of the equation was assessed by reflectance measurements. 48 polyester fabrics having different constructional parameters were used and the fabrics differed from each other by their cover factors. The warp yarn type and count, warp density and warp yarn twist were the same but weft yarn count, weft yarn fiber count and weft density were different for the fabrics in the experimental sub-groups. The reflectance measurements were conducted on the pretreated but undyed fabric samples as well as on the individual yarn systems of the same fabrics. Fabrics with the same cover factors exhibited different fractional reflectances. Reflectances were found to be dependent on the cover factor as well as on yarn fiber fineness, yarn count, yarn density and fabric weave. The changes in crimp of the yarns according to different construction parameters also governed the changes in fractional reflectances of fabric surfaces. The proposed equation was tested according to different fabric construction parameters and it was concluded that fiber fineness and weave pattern were among the most important parameters which govern the total light reflectances from the fabric surfaces, although they are not incorporated in the calculation of the fabric cover factors. The proposed equation was used to explain the effects of these components on the reflectance behavior of the fabric surfaces and on fabric cover.     

Reflectance prediction of colored polyester fabrics by a novel formula

This paper focuses on the reflectance prediction of colored (unicolored) fabrics considering relationship between fractional reflectance values and cover factors of fabrics woven from polyester yarns. A novel equation for the calculation of relation between fractional reflectance and cover factor was proposed and usage of the equation was assessed by reflectance measurements. 48 dyed polyester fabrics having different constructional parameters were used and fabrics differed from each other by their cover factors. Warp yarn type and count, warp density and warp yarn twist were the same but weft yarn count, weft yarn fiber count and weft density were different for the fabrics in experimental sub-groups. The reflectance measurements were conducted on the dyed fabric samples as well as on the individual yarn systems (warp and weft) of the same fabrics. The proposed equation was tested according to different fabric constructional parameters and reasonable results with the experimental data were obtained. The possibilities of general use of derived mathematical relations between theoretical and measured reflectance values were researched. The relation obtained was used to explain the effects of different constructional parameters on reflectance behavior of fabric surfaces.     

The effect of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness of polyester fabrics

The effects of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness values of textured polyester woven fabrics with different constructional parameters were investigated. The warp yarn properties (type, count and warp density) were kept constant while the effect of variation in weft yarn density and weave pattern were studied. Measurements were conducted on pre-treated white fabric samples and the results assessed in relation to their constructional properties. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness values of polyester fabrics affected by fabric balance and fabric cover and the effects were related to fabric thickness, yarn densities, yarn crimp, positioning of yarns in fabric structure. A change in weave pattern from sateen to plain increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased the surface roughness. Similarly, an increase in weft density increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased surface roughness. In order to produce fabrics with smooth surface properties yarn density should be increased, yarn float lengths decreased, cover of fabrics increased and fabric balance improved.     

Empirical modelling of tensile strength of woven fabrics

Aesthetic properties of fabrics have been considered as the most important fabric attribute for years. However, recently there has been a paradigm shift in the domain of textile material applications and consequently more emphasis is now being given on the mechanical and functional properties of fabrics rather than its aesthetic appeal. Moreover, in certain woven fabrics used for technical applications, strength is a decisive quality parameter. In this work, tensile strength of plain woven fabrics has been predicted by using two empirical modelling methods namely artificial neural network (ANN) and linear regression. Warp yarn strength, warp yarn elongation, ends per inch (EPI), picks per inch (PPI) and weft count (Ne) were used as input parameters. Both the models were able to predict the fabric strength with reasonably good precision although ANN model demonstrated higher prediction accuracy and generalization ability than the regression model. The warp yarn strength and EPI were found to be the two most significant factors influencing fabric strength in warp direction.     

The effect of different connections in double layered woven fabrics on comfort properties

With the increasing demand of fabrics for special usage areas, more complex woven structures are designed and from the structural point of view, especially the parameters which affect the comfort properties become more important. This paper reports the effect of structural parameters of double layered woven fabrics, such as number of interlacing picks, period of interlacing and number of weft skips on the basic comfort properties of the fabrics (thickness, air permeability and wicking properties) produced according to Taguchi orthogonal array design. The investigated parameters were determined before and after finishing treatment. According to the results, it is found that period of interlacing has an important effect on the thickness and air permeability of both untreated and treated fabrics whereas in terms of drying coefficient, the effect of the investigated parameters is not statistically important.     

New insight into compressive shrinkage finishing in a garment company: The effects on physical,mechanical and colorimetric properties of cotton woven fabrics

Compressive shrinkage or compressive shrinkage finishing is one of the most important finishing procedures in the textile industry to improve the dimensional stability of cotton fabrics. Study of the physical and mechanical properties of compressive shrinkage finished fabrics could be useful for optimizing the treatment conditions. This research was carried out in a production line of a recognized garment company on cotton woven fabrics with two different woven patterns (twill and plain). The samples were first dyed with reactive and sulfur dyes in a jigger dyeing machine and finished with a silicone softener. The dried fabrics were then processed in a compressive shrinkage machine. Several physical and mechanical properties of the samples were evaluated including area shrinkage, crimp percentage, thickness, abrasion resistance, drapeability, mechanical and colorimetric properties. The results showed that the thickness of all treated samples increased due to compressive shrinkage. The fabrics were analyzed with a Martindale Abrasion Tester to determine the abrasion resistance. Interestingly, we noted an increase in the abrasion resistance. After the compressive shrinkage process, the strength of the plain woven fabrics decreased in the warp direction, but increased for twill woven cotton fabrics. On the contrary, the strength of all samples increased in the weft direction. Colorimetric evaluation of the samples showed that the effect of compressive shrinkage on the color of all samples was negligible.     

Assessment of the surface roughness of cotton fabrics through different yarn and fabric structural properties

The effects of some yarn properties (i.e. type, count, twist level, ply number, unevenness and crimp) and fabric constructional properties (i.e. cover, thickness and balance) on surface roughness values of cotton woven fabrics were investigated. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness values of fabrics were affected from yarn and fabric properties and the effects were related to fabric balance, fabric cover (not cover factor), fabric thickness and crimp values of yarns in fabric structures. Surface roughness values of fabrics decreased as yarn fineness and yarn twist levels increased but as yarn ply number decreased. Also, surface roughness values gradually decreased from open-end yarn constituting fabrics to combed yarn constituting fabrics. Results showed that different properties of yarns caused changes in yarn crimps in fabric structure and also governed the changes in fabric balance, as well as changes in roughness of fabric surfaces. The changing properties of yarns and impact of these properties on fabric construction affected the formation of cotton fabric surfaces from smooth to coarse.     

Predicting the tensile strength of polyester/cotton blended woven fabrics using feed forward back propagation artificial neural networks

Tensile strength plays a vital role in determining the mechanical behavior of woven fabrics. In this study, two artificial neural networks have been designed to predict the warp and weft wise tensile strength of polyester cotton blended fabrics. Various process and material related parameters have been considered for selection of vital few input parameters that significantly affect fabric tensile strength. A total of 270 fabric samples are woven with varying constructions. Application of nonlinear modeling technique and appreciable volume of data sets for training, testing and validating both prediction models resulted in best fitting of data and minimization of prediction error. Sensitivity analysis has been carried out for both models to determine the contribution percentage of input parameters and evaluating the most impacting variable on fabric strength.     

大麻织物的抗紫外线性能评价

测试了不同厚度、不同覆盖系数、不同组织结构和颜色的大麻织物紫外线透过率和抗紫外指数（UPF值），分析了厚度、覆盖系数、组织结构和颜色对大麻织物的抗紫外线性能的影响，指出大麻织物越厚，其紫外线透过率越小，UPF值愈大；覆盖系数增加，紫外线透过率减小，UPF值随之增大；在厚度和覆盖系数相同时，缎纹组织大麻织物的抗紫外线性能最好，斜纹组织大麻织物次之，平纹组织大麻织物再次之。深色大麻织物的抗紫外线性能好，浅色的较差。随着大麻织物颜色饱和度增加，其紫外线透过率相应减小，UPF值相应增加，抗紫外线性能越好。     

The effects of some machine parameters on the spirality in single jersey fabrics

In this work, the effects of machine parameters on the fabric spirality, which is an important quality problem of single jersey knitted fabrics, are investigated. For this aim, two circular knitting machines with the same gauge, but one of them revolving in the reverse direction, are chosen. Single jersey fabric samples with the same weight per square meter and the same yarn count (Ne 20 Cotton) are knitted on the chosen machines at four different numbers of knitting systems. The effects of the number of the knitting systems and the rotation directions of the machines on the spirality angles are investigated.     

Modelling tearing behavior of durable press finished woven fabric

Tearing strength is one of the most important and critical properties related to durable press finished cotton woven fabric. In the past, modelling of tearing strength of cotton woven fabrics was based on untreated cotton woven fabric but not in durable pressed finished fabric. In this paper, a mathematical model was established to demonstrate the tearing strength mechanism of durable press finished cotton woven fabrics by dimensional analysis based on yarn diameter, cover factor, Young’s modulus and fabric elongation. The proposed model agreed well with experimental results and the proposed model can be used for optimizing durable press finishing process of cotton woven fabric.     

Evaluation of bamboo charcoal/stainless steel/TPU composite woven fabrics

Composite woven fabric satisfies what people require. Bamboo charcoal (BC) has been identified as a multifunctional material that has far-infrared ray, anions, deodorization and etc. BC fibers and yarns were made of bamboo charcoal powders and have further become a pervasive materials used in textile industry. In this study, cotton yarns, stainless steel/cotton (SS/C) complex yarn, bamboo charcoal/cotton (BC/C) complex yarns were woven into the plain, twill and Dobby composite woven fabrics. The warp yarn was composed of cotton yarns, and the weft yarn was made up of BC/C and SS/C complex yarns with a picking ratio of 1:1 and 3:1. Thermoplastic polyurethanes (TPU) film was then attached to the composite woven fabrics, forming the BC/SS/TPU composite woven fabrics. Tests of electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMSE), far-infrared emissivity, anions, water resistance, and water vapor permeability measured the single-layer, two-layer and four-layer composite woven fabrics, obtaining a far-infrared emissivity of 0.95 by 39.8 counts per minute, an anion count of 149 amount/cc, an EMSE of −11.87 dB under frequency of 900 MHz, a surface resistivity of 8×10⁻⁶ Ω/square, a water resistance of −8219 mmH₂O, and water vapor permeability of 989 g/m²·h and 319 g/m²·24 h in accordance with JIS L 1099 A1 and ASTM E96 BW.     

Mechanical properties and tactile sensation of naturally colored organic cotton fabrics

This study was carried out to investigate mechanical properties of naturally colored organic cotton (NaCOC) fabrics, to evaluate tactile sensory perceptions, and finally to identify the related mechanical parameters with the sensory perceptions. Two species, coyote-brown and green NaCOC fiber, commercially available, were selected and woven into plain and twill fabrics. Seventeen mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. Then, primary hand value (PHV) and total hand value (THV) were calculated by KN-203-LDY and KN-302-SUMMER, respectively. For sensory perception evaluation, 30 participants answered the questionnaire consisted of nine different bipolar adjectives dealing with tactile sensation using the semantic differential scale (SDS). As the result of mechanical properties, there were meaningful differences in shear, surface, compression properties, thickness, and weight of 4 NaCOC fabrics. For hand value, a coyotebrown twill fabric was evaluated as the most appropriate for lady’s summer dress applications. In sensory perception evaluation, meaningful differences of sensory perception were shown among 4 specimens except ‘fineness’ and ‘wetness’ perceptions. Prediction models for sensory perceptions of NaCOC fabrics were extracted by regression analysis in ‘softness’, ‘fineness’, ‘warmth’, ‘pliability’, ‘limpness’, ‘thinness’ and ‘wetness’ perceptions.     

Stab-resistant property of the fabrics woven with the aramid/cotton core-spun yarns

Aramid fibers are mainly used for industrial applications and human body protection against ballistic threats. But they are used mostly in forms of composites. And fabrics woven with a high yarn count offer a moderate protection performance against the knife stabbing due to the low shear strength. This research is focused on investigating the effect of the aramid core-spun yarns on the stab resistance of the woven fabrics. With the aramid core-spun yarns with core to sheath weight ratio of 1 to 2.5 the armor specimens having different fabric densities were prepared and the knife edge impact test was conducted. On the impact energy of the knife at the level 1 according to the NIJ standard, the drop tower test results demonstrated that fabric density of the armor specimens affected the stab resistance significantly. The penetration depth of the impactor through the armor specimens was associated with the thickness and mass of the armor sample in different ways. Being the stab resistance introduced by considering the penetration depth of the impactor via thickness and weight per surface area, the effects of the fabric conditions on the anti-stabbing property could be systematically analyzed and turned out that there was an optimal level of the fabric density, showing the most effective stab resistance.     

Moisture and thermal permeability of the hollow textured PET imbedded woven fabrics for high emotional garments

This study examined the effects of the total porosity, pore size, and cover factor on the moisture and thermal permeability of woven fabrics made from DTY (draw textured yarns) and ATY (air jet textured yarns) composite yarns with hollow PET (polyethylene terephthalate) yarns. The wicking of the hollow composite yarn fabrics was found to be superior to that of the high twisted yarn fabrics, which may be due to the high porosity in the hollow composites yarns, but this was not related to the cover factor. The drying characteristics of the hollow composite yarn fabric with high porosity were inferior compared to the high twisted yarn fabrics due to the large amounts of liquid water in the large pores, which resulted in a longer drying time of the fabric. The thermal conductivity of the hollow composite yarn fabrics decreased with increasing measured pore diameter due to the bulky yarn structure. The effects of the hollowness of the yarn on the thermal conductivity were more dominant than those of the yarn structural parameters. The air permeability increased with increasing measured pore diameter but the effects of the cover factor on the air permeability were not observed in the hollow composite yarn fabrics. The effects of porosity on the moisture and thermal permeability of the woven fabrics made from the hollow composite filaments were found to be critical, i.e., wicking and air permeability increase with increasing porosity. In addition, the drying rate increased with increasing porosity and the thermal conductivity decreased with increasing pore diameter, but were independent of the cover factor.     

Analysis of acoustic characteristics of fabrics in terms of mechanical properties

The purpose of this study was to classify various fabrics into some meaningful groups and to predict the fabrics’ acoustic characteristics using their mechanical properties. Two hundred seventeen fabrics, fifty one knitted fabrics, fifty nine woven fabrics and one hundred and seven vapor permeable water repellent fabrics, were used as test specimen. Fabric frictional sounds of the specimen were measured with a MAFN(Measuring Apparatus for Fabric Noise, Patent: No, 2001-73360). Sound Pressure Level(SPL), psychoacoustic parameters such as Loudness(z) and Sharpness(z) of the specimen were obtained by the sound quality system. KES-FB system was used for mechanical property measurements. Cluster analysis was used to classify the specimen and discriminant analysis was used to predict the clusters. Linear regression analysis was used to suggest the equations to predict the acoustic properties using mechanical properties.     

A comparative study of finer conventional and modified cotton yarns and their resultant woven fabrics

A modified ring spinning technique has been recently developed by incorporating false twisting devices into the conventional ring frame. Its application on the coarser yarn counts (7–32 Ne) showed notable advantages in modified yarn and fabric performance. More recently, it was noted that this technique can also be applied for producing finer cotton yarns. Thus this paper aims to carry out a systematic study of the physical properties of the finer modified yarns (80 Ne) and woven fabrics with respect to the conventional ones. Physical properties of conventional and modified single yarns were evaluated and compared. These two types of single yarn were used for the production of woven fabrics. Moreover, the above two types of single yarn were also plied and used for the production of woven fabrics under a commercial condition. All woven fabrics were assessed in terms of fabric tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, fabric weight, and air-permeability as well as other fabric performance measured by the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES). Experimental results showed that finer modified yarns and fabrics exhibit higher strength, lower hairiness, and improved abrasion resistance, slightly better compression property, and smoother surface with relatively larger thickness.     

Effect of thinning flower buds on fruit and seed traits and root yield of Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer

Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer, commonly known as ginseng, is a perennial herb. Agricultural practices have an influence on growth and yield of P. ginseng plants. Effect of thinning flower buds (treatment A (TA) the outermost whorl of flower buds in the umbels was retained while all other buds were excised; treatment B (TB) the two outer whorls of flower buds in the umbels) on fruit traits, which include number of fruits per plant, single fruit: double fruit ratio, fruit weigh (FW) per square meter, weight of 100 fruits, vertical length of fruit (VLF), horizontal diameter of the fruit (HFD) and thickness of the fruit (TF), seed traits, which include number of seeds per square meter, weight of 1000 seeds, number of different seed grading categories (extremely large seeds (ELS), large seeds (LS), medium-sized seeds (MS), small seeds (SS)) per square meter, vertical length of the seed (VLS), horizontal diameter of the seed (HSD), thickness of the seed (TS), and the root yield and total ginsenosides content of root of four- and five-year-old cultivated P. ginseng was studied in Fusong region of north-eastern China. The results showed that the FW and VLF, the weight of 1000 seeds, number of ELS per square meter, VLS and HDS of ELS, HDS and TS of MS and root yield were increased significantly by TA and TB (p < 0.05), whereas the number of MS and SS were significantly reduced (p < 0.05) in four- and five-year-old plants. The number of ELS and LS in TB and control were higher than that of in TA, and not significant was observed between TB and control. The root yield in TB was significantly higher than that in control of five-year-old plants. Number of the seeds per square meter of five-year-old plants was higher than that of four-year-old plants. The results indicated that the method of thinning flower buds, which was the two outer whorls of flower buds in the umbels, on five-year-old cultivated P. ginseng plants was a favourable method to promote the production of high-quality seeds and maximise the root yield.     

Effect of selected metrological parameters of dyed polyester textiles on their UV-barrier properties

This paper presents the results of studies on the effect of some metrological parameters of polyester textiles dyed with a disperse dye, C. I. Disperse Red 54, on the level of their UV-barrier properties. It has been found that the UV-barrier properties of textiles not always depend on fabric parameters such as thickness and tightness/porosity as suggested by many research works. The parameters mentioned above, due to their interaction with a dye applied (that absorbs UV radiation), one may treat as indirect factors. It is the surface weight of a fabric that seems to be the direct factor and the most important metrological parameter in this regard. This is indicated by spectrophotometric measurements of dyed fabrics of different surface weights. Higher values of this parameter result in higher levels of UV-barrier properties. Increase in the barrier properties with increasing dyeing percentage is also higher for fabrics with greater surface weights. To confirm this fact, we presented in this paper a physical-mathematical model accepted for a dyed woven fabric, treated as an optical filter containing a dye. The model is based on Lambert-Beer’s law. The dye plays the part of a UV radiation absorber, occurring in the fiber material in the state of monomolecular dispersion (a solid solution).