Comparative study on the characteristics of knitted fabrics made of vortex-spun viscose yarns

Murata vortex spinning system is based on the air jet spinning system. The vast majority of previous works deal with the properties of vortex spun (VS) yarn and the spinning system. In this study, we investigated knitted fabrics from VS yarn in comparison with fabrics from ring (RS), compact (CS) and open-end rotor (OES) spun yarns made from viscose. The effect of yarn spinning system on dimensional and physical properties of knitted fabrics was explained with specific attention to fabrics from VS yarn. Shrinkage of fabrics from VS yarn has the lowest at widthwise direction, while having the highest at lengthwise direction. It is shown that the order of fabric spirality and twist liveliness for yarns from different spinning systems are quite similar. However, relation between loop shape factor and angle of spirality is inconsistent. Angle of spirality of fabrics from VS yarn is higher than fabrics from OES yarn, but lower than that of others. The bursting strength of fabrics from VS yarn is lower than that of those from RS and CS yarns and higher than that of those from OES yarn. From this study, it is also evident that fabrics from VS yarn have the lowest pilling tendency and highest resistance to abrasion.     

The Effects of Fabric and Conductive Wire Properties on Electromagnetic Shielding Effectiveness and Surface Resistivity of Interlock Knitted Fabrics

Our aim in this study was to investigate the effects of course density, yarn linear density and thickness and type of conductive wire on electromagnetic shielding effectiveness. Metal/cotton conductive composite yarns were produced by the core-spun technique on the ring spinning machine, involving stainless steel, copper and silver coated copper wires with 40 μm, 50 μm, 60 μm thicknesses and Ne10/1 and Ne20/1 count yarns. The interlock fabrics were knitted on a 7G flat knitting machine with the three different machine settings. The EMSE and the surface resistivity of knitted fabrics were measured by the co-axial transmission line method according to the ASTM-D4935-10 standard in the frequency range from 15 to 3000 MHz and by the ASTM D257-07 standard, respectively. It was observed that all fabrics shielded around 95 % of electromagnetic waves at low frequencies, 80 % at medium frequencies and 70 % at high frequencies. Increasing the course density and thickness of conductive wire in interlock knitted fabrics increased the EMSE correspondingly. The knitted fabrics that had been produced with high yarn count showed greater EMSE because there was less isolation. The effect of the metal wire type was highly significant between 15 and 600 MHz.     

Spinning performance and antibacterial activity of SeaCell® active/cotton blended rotor yarns

Microorganisms can lead to functional, hygienic and aesthetic (e.g. deterioration, staining) problems on textile products. Natural fibers especially cotton are more easily affected by microorganisms. Blending of cotton fibers with antimicrobial fibers can enhance the protective properties of products against microorganisms. Demand of antimicrobial performance from the products changes depending on the application area. Therefore determination of suitable antimicrobial fiber quantity for the desired application is important. In this study the spinning performance of SeaCell Active/cotton blended open end rotor yarns and antibacterial activities of fabrics produced by these blended yarns were investigated. Five different cotton/SeaCell Active blended slivers with SeaCell Active content from 3 % up to 53 % were prepared on drawframe machine and all slivers were spun into yarns on open end rotor spinning machine at a yarn count of 20 tex with α_Tt=3827 twist coefficient. The effects of rotor speed, opening roller speed, rotor, opening roller and navel type on the quality parameters of SeaCell Active/cotton blended yarns were investigated. Tensile properties, hairiness, unevenness and IPI values of the yarns were reported. All types of cotton/SeaCell Active blended yarns were knitted on a circular knitting machine. Antibacterial activity of the fabrics was analyzed quantitatively. Antibacterial tests showed that good antibacterial activity can be achieved after several washings even with 3 % of SeaCell Active fibers in fabrics.     

Modeling spun yarns migratory properties using artificial neural network

The mechanical and physical properties of spun yarns and fabrics depend not only on properties of constituent fibers, but also the yarn structure characterized by geometrical arrangement of fibers in the yarn body. Although there are many studies related to analyzing the migratory properties of spun yarns, there are no studies available about predicting yarn migration parameters. Therefore, the main aim of this research is to introduce a new approach to predict migratory properties of different kinds of spun yarns, namely siro, solo, compact and conventional ring-spun yarns. To achieve the objectives of the research, general physical and mechanical properties of spun yarns together with existing standards were thoroughly studied. Spun yarn migratory properties were predicted using intelligent technique of artificial neural network (ANN). Results signified that the ANN models can predict precisely the yarn migratory properties on the basis of a series of yarn physical and mechanical properties.     

Study on characteristics of compact yarns under dynamic state

The dynamic testing conditions simulate actual manufacturing conditions more closely than static testing. In most cases, as results from dynamic tests differ significantly from static tests, dynamic tests are more relevant from the point of view of processing of yarn. The yarns are in motion when they are running on different machines during the production process viz. weaving; knitting etc. Compact ring spun yarns have created a fundamental change how the industry views the ring spinning. The new technology compact yarns such as EliTe® yarns need to be compared with the normal doubled yarns in a dynamic way. This study involves dynamic testing of the EliTe® compact yarns and normal ring spun doubled yarns using CTT (Constant Tension Transport) machine, a versatile test instrument to measure the yarn properties such as dynamic breaking strength, elongation, abrasion, lint, yarn faults (thick, thin places, neps), hairiness etc. EliTe® compact yarns showed higher breaking strength, more elongation, with lesser yarn faults and hairiness, less abrasiveness and less lint generating tendencies during the dynamic testing as compared to the normal ring spun doubled yarns.     

Dimensional and physical properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 50/50 bamboo/cotton blended yarns

In this study, the dimensional and some physical properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 50/50 bamboo/cotton blended yarns are investigated. In order to see the differences and similarities, the results are then compared with those for similar fabrics knitted from 50/50 conventional viscose/cotton and 50/50 modal/cotton blended yarns. Each fabric type was produced with three different stitch lengths. After all fabrics were dyed under identical dyeing conditions, they were subjected to dry and full relaxation treatments. For dimensional properties of fabrics, course, wale and stitch densities were measured. Then, by calculating statistically best-fit lines passing both through the experimental points and the origin, dimensional constants i.e. k values were predicted in terms of the fiber types. The result show that each fabric type knitted from bamboo/cotton, viscose/cotton and modal/cotton blended yarns behaves in a similar manner. However, in both dry and fully relaxed states, the modal/cotton knitted fabrics tend to have slightly higher k values than the bamboo/cotton and viscose/cotton knitted fabrics. For physical properties, fabric weight per unit area, thickness, bursting strength, air permeability and pilling were evaluated. The results show that the weight, thickness and air permeability values are independent of the fiber type. Plain knitted fabrics from modal/cotton blended yarns have the highest bursting strength values. Plain knitted fabrics from bamboo/cotton blended yarns tend to pill less.     

Predicting properties of single jersey fabrics using regression and artificial neural network models

In our previous works, we had predicted cotton ring yarn properties from the fiber properties successfully by regression and ANN models. In this study both regression and artificial neural network has been applied for the prediction of the bursting strength and air permeability of single jersey knitted fabrics. Fiber properties measured by HVI instrument and yarn properties were selected as independent variables together with wales’ and courses’ number per square centimeter. Firstly conventional ring yarns were produced from six different types of cotton in four different yarn counts (Ne 20, Ne 25, Ne 30, and Ne 35) and three different twist multipliers (α _e 3.8, α _e 4.2, and α _e 4.6). All the yarns were knitted by laboratory circular knitting machine. Regression and ANN models were developed to predict the fabric properties. It was found that all models can be used to predict the single jersey fabric properties successfully. However, ANN models exhibit higher predictive power than the regression models.     

Leveraging the Antibacterial Properties of Knitted Fabrics by Admixture of Polyester-Silver Nanocomposite Fibres

Leveraging the antibacterial properties of polyester-cotton knitted fabrics has been attempted in this research by admixture of small proportion of polyester-silver nanocomposite fibres. Polyester-cotton (50:50) yarns were spun by mixing 10, 20 and 30 % (wt.%) polyester-silver nanocomposite fibres with normal polyester fibres so that overall proportion of polyester fibre becomes 50 %. The proportion of cotton fibre was constant (50 %) in all the yarns. Three parameters, namely blend proportion (wt.%) of nanocomposite fibres, yarn count and knitting machine gauge were varied, each at three levels, for producing 27 knitted fabrics. Polyester-cotton knitted fabrics prepared from polyester-silver nanocomposite fibres showed equally good antibacterial activity (65-99 %) against both S. aureus and E. coli bacteria. Antibacterial properties were enhanced with the increase in the proportion of polyester-silver nanocomposite fibres, yarn coarseness and increased compactness of knitted fabrics. Yarn count and blend proportion of nanocomposite fibre were found to have very dominant influence in determining the antibacterial properties of knitted fabrics.     

Study on Spinning triangles in the common ring spinning and Super draft ring spinning systems

In the paper, one kind of super draft ring spinning frame with four drafting rollers and corresponding three drafting zones were introduced. The yarn qualities spun by the super draft ring spinning frame were analyzed by studying the shape of spinning triangles. Using the high speed camera system OLYMPUS i-speed3 and one kind of transparent front top roller, the spinning triangles were captured, and the geometry size of spinning triangle were measured. Then, according to the theoretical model of fiber tension in the spinning triangle, fiber tension distributions in the spinning triangles were presented by using Matlab software. Using the combed roving of 350 tex as raw material, three kinds of cotton yarns, 27.8 tex (21^S), 18.2 tex (32^S) and 14.6 tex (40^S), were spun in the common ring spinning frame with three different suitable spindle speeds, travelers and twist factors. Using the combed roving of 350 tex and 500 tex as raw material, 14.6 tex cotton yarns were spun in the super draft ring spinning frame with three different drafting ratios at back zone. It is shown that with the increasing of spindle speed, a more asymmetric shape of spinning triangle would be produced, and lead to worsen yarn evenness. With the decreasing of traveler weight, the height and horizontal deviation of the spinning triangle is decreased, and may lead to better yarn evenness and less long hairiness. By taking suitable large yarn twist factors, the comprehensive qualities can be improved. Comparing with the common ring spinning, the spinning triangle is larger in the super draft ring spinning. That is, in the super draft ring spinning, the fibers in the strand in the front roller nip are more dispersed, and not benefit for yarn qualities. Therefore, the compact device was introduced into the super draft ring spinning, and the cotton pure yarns and blend yarns were spun, and the yarn qualities were measured and analyzed.     

The effect of spinning parameters on mechanical and physical properties of core-spun yarns produced by the three-strand modified method (TSMM)

The effect of spinning parameters on core-spun yarns properties manufactured using three-strand modified method (TSMM) was analyzed. Of the various spinning parameters, strand spacing, yarn linear density and yarn twist have a crucial effect on core-spun yarn properties. To achieve the objectives of this research, general physical properties of core-spun yarns together with existing standards were thoroughly studied. First of all, the strand spacing and yarn linear density were optimized. Afterwards, the effects of variation of yarn twist and sheath roving linear density on core-spun yarns properties were investigated. Finally, the physical and mechanical properties of TSMM yarns were compared with those of siro and conventional ring core-spun yarns counterparts. It was found that, the best strand spacing and yarn linear density to produce core-spun yarns are 8 mm and 45 tex, respectively. Results showed that, tenacity of TSMM yarns increases up to a certain twist level beyond which it reduces. The result confirmed that 45 tex yarns produced by three rovings of the same count are superior with regards to tenacity and hairiness. The optimized yarns produced by three-strand modified method enjoy superior physical and mechanical properties in comparison to the ring and siro core-spun yarns.     

A comparative study on performance properties of yarns and knitted fabrics made of biodegradable and conventional fibers

Biodegradable products are parts of a natural cycle. The biopolymers and the fibers that can be produced from them are very attractive on the market because of the positive human perception. Therefore, PLA being a well known biodegradable fiber and some conventional fibers were selected for the current study to examine the differences between them and to emphasize the importance of biodegradability beside fabric performance. 14.8 tex (Ne 40/1) combed ring spun yarns produced from biodegradable fiber PLA, new generation regenerated fibers Modal and Tencel, synthetic and blends 50/ 50 % cotton/polyester and 50/50 % viscose/polyester, polyester were selected as yarn types and by using these yarns, six knitted fabrics were produced and some important yarn and fabric properties were compared. In this context, moisture and the tensile behavior of yarns and pilling, bursting strength, air permeability and moisture management properties of the test fabrics are discussed.     

A comparative study of cotton knitted fabrics and garments produced by the modified low twist and conventional ring yarns

Spirality is one of the major potential problems in knitted fabrics and garments. It affects the aesthetics and physical properties of the garment produced, such as the seam displacement, shape retention, pattern distortion and sewing difficulties. In this paper, a comparative study has been carried out to evaluate the physical performance of 100 % cotton knitted fabrics and garments produced by the modified low twist and conventional ring yarns through the actual wearing and washing trials. Experimental results showed that the properties of side seam displacement, fabric spirality, dimensional stability and skewness change of the T-shirts and sweaters made by the modified single yarns are comparable to those of garments made from the control plied yarns but much improved when compared to those from the control single yarns. In addition, the pilling resistance and bursting strength of the knitted fabrics made by the modified single yarns can still maintain a reasonably high level at a low yarn twist.     

Performance of cotton single yarns and knitted fabrics produced by a 2-step spinning method

A low torque spinning method has been recently developed by integrating the ring spinning process with false twisting techniques. As a result of false twist and true twist, a novel single yarn of low torque and soft handle is generated. Based on the similar spinning principle, this paper proposed a 2-step spinning method, which is composed of twisting-anduntwisting operation and can be considered as a variant of the low torque spinning method. The proposed spinning method separates the false twisting process into twisting and untwisting processes which are combined in one step in the low torque spinning method. In this paper, physical properties of yarns produced by the proposed spinning method were evaluated and compared with the conventional yarns. Influences of various spinning parameters on the properties of 2-step yarns were also examined. Furthermore, a systematic study of the physical properties of the 2-step yarns and resultant fabrics with respect to the conventional and low torque ones was carried out. The experimental results showed that the 2-step yarns exhibit slightly higher tenacity, lower wet snarl and much less hairiness than the conventional yarns, which, however, are inferior to the low torque yarns, particularly the evenness. The fabrics made by the 2-step yarns show the softest handle feeling, best airpermeability and moderate spirality angle with acceptable pilling resistance.     

Comparative study of cellulase treatment on low stress mechanical properties of cotton denim fabric made by torque-free ring spun yarn

Cellulase is useful for bio-polishing cotton fabrics which enhances their aesthetic performance instead of stonewashing process. Torque-free ring spun process is a widely used technique to produce newly low-twist and balanced torque yarns with soft hand. In this paper, denim fabrics woven with torque-free ring spun yarn and conventional ring spun yarn respectively were treated with cellulase under the same condition and their fabric handle, expressed as low stress mechanical properties, such as tensile strength, bending, shearing, compression and surface performance were investigated by Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F). After cellulase treatment, both denim fabrics revealed better flexibility, elasticity recovery, raised shearing stiffness, fluffier and improved smoothness. While torque-free ring spun yarn made denim fabric showed a better fabric handle than conventional ring spun yarn made denim fabric.     

Reducing ring spun yarn hairiness via spinning with a contact surface

In this study, spinning with a contact surface was introduced as a simple and energy-saving method to reduce spun yarn hairiness. Theoretical analysis indicated that yarn hairiness could be reduced via a sufficient long contact surface applied in other part of yarn formation zone in addition to spinning triangle. Then, a simple contact apparatus was installed on ring frame to validate the theoretical analysis. Results proved that yarn hairiness was reduced via a contact surface in the yarn formation zone. However, unevenness was deteriorated for most yarns spun with contact apparatus during the spinning, which might be due to fiber mass concentration. Most of yarns spun with contact apparatus had a lower strength than the conventional yarns. This might be because evenness deterioration to decrease yarn strength overpowered hairiness reduction to increase yarn strength for most yarns spun with a contact surface.     

Effect of chemical softening of coconut fibres on structure and properties of its blended yarn with jute

Coconut fibres were subjected to chemical treatment to obtain softer and finer fibres, suitable to blend with other finer fibre like jute. The chemical softening recipe was optimized using Box-Behnken design of experiments as 40 % Na₂S, 10 % NaOH and 6 % Na₂CO₃, which notably reduced the fineness (33 %) and flexural rigidity (74 %) and improved tensile property of coconut fibre. Effect of softening of coconut fibre on its process performance was studied in high speed mechanized spinning system at different blend ratios with jute. Blending with jute assists in spinning of coconut fibre to produce yarn of 520 tex at production rate of 5-6 kg/h, as compared to 15 kg/day for hand spun 5300 tex raw coconut fibre yarn in manual system. Analysis of blended yarn structure in terms of packing density, radial distribution of fiber components (SEM) and mass irregularity were investigated. SEM shows yarns made from softened coconut fibre -jute blends are more compact than raw coconut fibre -jute blend yarns. Coconut fibres were preferentially migrated to core of the yarn. Major yarn properties viz., tensile strength, and flexural rigidity of raw and chemically softened blended yarns were compared against their finest possible 100 % coconut fibre yarn properties. Yarn made up to 50:50 chemically softened coconut fibre-jute blend showed much better spinning performance, and having superior property in terms of reduced diameter, higher compactness, strength, initial modulus and less flexural rigidity than 100 % raw, 100 % chemically softened coconut fibre rope, and raw coconut fibre-jute blend yarns.     

Comparative study on the effect of blend ratio on tensile properties of ring and rotor cotton-polyester blended yarns using concept of the hybrid effect

Study on the characteristics of blended ring and rotor spun yarns is a topic of major interest to the researchers. The overall properties of these blended yarns are affected by the relative proportion, properties of the components and their interactions. The main focus of this work is on comparing and analyzing effects of blend ratio on tensile properties of the yarns produced in different spinning systems using concept of hybrid effects that has not received enough attention from researchers. Various blends of cotton-polyester ring and rotor spun yarns were prepared. Tensile properties of the samples were examined as well. Interactions between cotton and polyester fibers was evaluated through predicting strength and elongation at break of the yarns using simple rule of mixtures (ROM) and hybrid model. Experimental results showed that, the effect of different blend ratios on tensile properties of the samples is different. In comparison with 100 % cotton yarn, promotion in braking strength of the ring and rotor spun samples occurred after increasing fraction of the polyester fiber to 50 and 66.5 % respectively. The prominent finding of the present work is that the trend of change in tensile properties of different yarns versus blend ratio is predictable via hybrid model and migration behavior of the constituent fibers. Coefficients representing the intensity of the interaction and migration index of the fibers were calculated and all results were discussed based on these calculated factors.     

Studies on reduction of yarn hairiness by nozzles in ring spinning and winding by airflow simulation

Reduction of yarn hairiness by nozzles in ring spinning and winding is a new approach. Simulation of the airflow pattern inside the nozzles provides useful information about actual mechanism of hairiness reduction. The swirling air current inside the nozzles is capable of wrapping the protruding hairs around the yarn body, thereby reducing yarn hairiness. Since production rate of winding is very high and the process itself increases yarn hairiness any method to reduce the hairiness of yarns at this stage is a novel approach. A CFD (computational fluid dynamics) model has been developed to simulate the airflow pattern inside the nozzles using Fluent 6.1 software. In this study, both S- and Z-type nozzles having an axial angle of 50° and diameter of 2.2 mm were used for simulation studies. To create a swirling effect, four air holes of 0.4 mm diameter are made tangential to the inner walls of the nozzles. S- and Z-twisted yarns of 30 tex were spun with and without nozzles and were tested for hairiness, tensile and evenness properties. The total number of hairs equal to or exceeding 3 mm (i.e. the S3 values) for yarn spun with nozzle is nearly 49–51 % less than that of ring yarns in case of nozzle-ring spinning, and 15 % less in case of nozzle-winding, while both the yarn types show little difference in evenness and tensile properties. Upward airflow gives best results in terms of hairiness reduction for nozzle-ring and nozzle wound yarns compared to ring yarns. Yarn passing through the centre of the nozzle shows maximum reduction in S3 values.     

苎麻与沟槽纤维混纺织物性能测试与分析

本文对采用纯苎麻纱作经纱及沟槽异形涤纶纤维混纺纱（交捻纱和sirofil纺纱）和其它纱线作为纬纱的不同织物试样的性能进行了测试和对比，分析了沟槽纤维混纺对织物吸湿排湿及其它性能的影响及其机理。     

Effect of ultrasonic laundering on thermophysiological properties of knitted fabrics

The paper focuses on the application of ultrasonic energy in textile laundering. In recent years, there has been an increasing interest in ultrasonic energy application in textile industry; however, the effect of ultrasonic laundering on the thermophysiological properties of knitted fabrics has not been studied yet. This study was conducted by using polylactic acid (PLA), cotton, polyethylene terephthalate (PET), and poly acrylic (PAC) fibres containing yarns and their blends. Knitted fabrics, single pique, were made from these yarns by using weft knitting machine. The fabrics were washed ten times for 15 and 60 minutes under 40 °C by using conventional and ultrasonic washing methods. The main aim was to determine the effect of washing methods on the thermophysiological properties of the fabrics. It is also aimed to analyse and evaluate the thermophysiological properties of the PLA fabrics. The incorporation of 100 % PLA and cotton/PLA yarns into single pique knitted fabrics has been attempted to produce for the first time and studied their thermal comfort properties. The results show that the washing processes have a critical importance for the tested fabrics in terms of thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, thermal absorbtivity, water vapour permeability, and heat loss. It has been also demonstrated that the fabric cleaning by using ultrasonic method enhanced the properties of tested fabrics such as thermal conductivity and % recovery. It was also noted that 15 minutes ultrasonically washed fabrics had significantly lower thermal resistance as compared to conventionally washed fabrics.