Interaction of textile parameters,wash-ageing and fabric conditioner with mechanical properties and correlation with textile-hand. II. Relationship between mechanical properties and textile-hand

In first part of this study, influences of wash-ageing and the use of fabric softener on the different mechanical parameters of textiles were examined. This paper deals with correlation of those mechanical parameters with sensory attributes. We defined the tracking criterion to investigate the relevancy of mechanical parameters with different sensory attributes. An intelligent system based on Fuzzy-Logic was developed in order to predict the sensory attribute score using two most relevant mechanical parameters.     

Antimicrobial treatment properties of Tencel Jacquard fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener

Tencel Jacquard fabric is one of the eco-fabrics used for underwear, sportswear, bedclothes, clothes for aged people, and hospital textiles. It is popular for these uses because it is easy to process into yarns and fabrics alone or in blends, very stable in washing and drying, thermally stable, and easy to dye with deep vibrant colors using direct, reactive, or vat dyes. In order to provide antimicrobial properties for Tencel Jacquard fabrics, they were treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener using two different processes so the results could be compared. One of the processes treated the fabrics with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener simultaneously, and the other process treated the fabrics with these agents sequentially. The treated Tencel Jacquard fabrics were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, and their antimicrobial properties were evaluated. In addition, water repellency, air permeability, water vapor permeability, and yellowness were measured. It was observed that the ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener were present on the surface of the treated fibers, and the quantity of these agents before and after laundering was proportional to the measured antimicrobial activity of the fabrics before and after laundering. Fabrics treated with both agents had stronger water/oil repellency than fabrics treated with only ginkgo biloba extract. As the quantities of the two treating agents on fabrics were increased, their air permeability and water vapor permeability decreased. No significant changes were observed for yellowness based on the amounts of treating agents applied. From these results, it is expected that Tencel fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener are excellent for use as bedclothes.     

Antimicrobial activity of textiles with selected dyes and finishing agents used in the textile industry

It is shown in this paper that cationic dyes and chemical finishing agents for textiles exhibit antimicrobial properties both in solution and when present on textile products. The dye Maxilon Navy 2RM has particularly high antimicrobial activity — its values of the minimum concentration inhibiting the growth of the studied microorganisms (MIC and MBC) are very low, in the range 0.0003–0.06 %. The tested dyes display mainly fungistatic action, while the fiber softener Sapamine OC and the dyeing fixative wet fastness improver Albafix WFF were more active against bacteria. The paper presents sensitivity series of microorganisms with respect to the tested dyes and finishing agents. Fabrics to which the substances had been applied showed reductions in microorganism numbers by 16 % to 99.9 %, depending on the type of substance and the microorganism. The studies showed that in some cases the use of a typical (justified technologically) quantity of dye or finishing agent imparts high antimicrobial activity to the textile materials, with bacteria or fungi reduced by more than 99 %.     

A comprehensive study of silicone-based cosmetic textile agent

In recent years, textile materials have also found applications in the cosmetic field as more and more commercial cosmetic textile agents are now available in the market. In this paper, one commercially available cosmetic textile agent (CTA) for skin caring benefits was used for making the cosmetic textiles. Systematic characterization methods were established to assess their performance in terms of material identification, fabric performance properties as well as biological safety and biological response to human skin. The experimental results showed that after the treatment of cosmetic textile agent, the fiber surface was covered with a thin layer of smooth material, thereby contributing several alterations to fabric properties and providing a better hand feel to human body. The durability of cosmetic textile was considerably satisfactory with respect to the abrasion resistance and washing cycles. The experimental results also illustrated that the cosmetic textiles might probably enhance the replacement of cells with the newly regenerated ones in the skin structure of human body, and thus provided a more efficient turning-over and replacement of skin components.     

Effect of selected metrological parameters of dyed polyester textiles on their UV-barrier properties

This paper presents the results of studies on the effect of some metrological parameters of polyester textiles dyed with a disperse dye, C. I. Disperse Red 54, on the level of their UV-barrier properties. It has been found that the UV-barrier properties of textiles not always depend on fabric parameters such as thickness and tightness/porosity as suggested by many research works. The parameters mentioned above, due to their interaction with a dye applied (that absorbs UV radiation), one may treat as indirect factors. It is the surface weight of a fabric that seems to be the direct factor and the most important metrological parameter in this regard. This is indicated by spectrophotometric measurements of dyed fabrics of different surface weights. Higher values of this parameter result in higher levels of UV-barrier properties. Increase in the barrier properties with increasing dyeing percentage is also higher for fabrics with greater surface weights. To confirm this fact, we presented in this paper a physical-mathematical model accepted for a dyed woven fabric, treated as an optical filter containing a dye. The model is based on Lambert-Beer’s law. The dye plays the part of a UV radiation absorber, occurring in the fiber material in the state of monomolecular dispersion (a solid solution).     

Self-cleaning and handle properties of TiO2-modified textiles

Self-cleaning surfaces based on photocatalysis are an extremely promising nano-technological field of extensive research and development. Recently comprehensive research work has been performed to evaluate the optical, photocatalytic and antimicrobial properties of TiO₂ nano-particles and composites thereof. The aim of this study was to obtain self-cleaning properties for regenerate cellulose surfaces by nano-modification, using TiO₂ nano-coating and to define the impact of the modification on fabrics end-use properties. Two different modified fabrics with self-cleaning effect were prepared and analysed, i.e. the modification efficiency was determined. In addition, the influence of fibre modification on several textile properties was determined. However, a soft handle, good appearance and some other surface properties accompanied by appropriate mechanical properties represent the basis for a high quality fabric therefore the influence of the modification procedure on textiles handle was studied.     

Effect of low temperature plasma treatment on wool fabric properties

Low temperature plasma (LTP) treatment was applied to wool fabric with the use of a non-polymerizing gas, namely oxygen. After the LTP treatment, the fabric properties including low-stress mechanical properties, air permeability and thermal properties, were evaluated. The low-stress mechanical properties were evaluated by means of Kawabata Evaluation System Fabric (KES-F) revealing that the tensile, shearing, bending, compression and surface properties were altered after the LTP treatment. The changes in these properties are believed to be related closely to the inter-fiber and inter-yarn frictional force induced by the LTP. The decrease in the air permeability of the LTP-treated wool fabric was found to be probably due to the plasma action effect on increasing in the fabric thickness and a change in fabric surface morphology. The change in the thermal properties of the LTP-treated wool fabric was in good agreement with the above findings and can be attributed to the amount of air trapped between the yarns and fibers. This study suggested that the LTP treatment can influence the final properties of the wool fabric.     

Ultrasound for efficient emulsification and uniform coating of an anionic lubricant on cotton

In this paper, a softener of aliphatic acid ester was treated with an ultrasonic bath and coated on cotton. The particle size distribution of the softener in water was evaluated by a particle size analyzer. Physical and surface properties of the fabric after coating with the ultrasonic treated softener were compared with a control sample. Different technical measurements were utilized for this purpose including bending lengths measurement (BLM), friction coefficient measurement (FCM), evaluation of crease recovery angle (CRA), moisture regain measurement (MRM), evaluation of contact angle (CA), reflectance spectroscopy (RS), atomic force microscopy (AFM) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). Results showed that ultrasound enhances softener distribution in water and it improves the drapeability, friction behavior, wrinkle recovery and water repellency of cotton due to uniform coating of softener.     

Synthesis and Characterization of Aqueous Chitosan-polyurethanes Dispersion for Textile Applications with Multipurpose Performance Profile

As the use of high performance textiles has grown, the need for chemical finishes to provide the fabric properties required in the special applications has grown accordingly. In this project, a series of water dispersible polyurethanes dispersion (CS-PUs) with multipurpose performance profile was developed using isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI), polyethylene glycol (PEG), 2,2-dimethylol propionic acid (DMPA) and chitosan (CS) for textile applications. In two step synthesis process, NCO functional PU prepolymers prepared by reacting IPDI, PEG, and DMPA were extended with varying molar quantities of chitosan followed by structural characterization through FTIR. The prepared CS-PU dispersions were applied onto the dyed and printed poly-cotton blend fabrics. The performance behavior of the treated fabric in terms of crease recovery, tear strength, tensile strength, and antibacterial properties was evaluated by applying standard test methods. These investigations show that the CS-PU dispersions can be applied as antibacterial textile finishes with significant improvement in the physical and mechanical properties of poly-cotton fabrics.     

Effects of bending properties and drapability on the hand and appearance of wool-blended Fabrics: Comparison of real clothing with online and 3D virtual garments

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of bending properties and drapability on the hand and appearance of wool-blended fabrics for comparison of real clothing with online and 3D virtual garments. Objective evaluations were performed by measuring mechanical properties of fabrics, while subjective evaluations were performed by subjects evaluating sensory images of fabrics; real clothing evaluations were performed offline and online, and 3D virtual garments were evaluated. Bending properties and drape coefficients of fabrics were affected by wool blending ratio, and fabrics with high wool blending ratio showed low stiffness, warm-cool, weight, and high smoothness, drapability image. In the real clothing evaluation, stiffness image showed many differences with online evaluation with respect to wool blending ratio. Objective bending properties and drape coefficients showed no correlation with subjective sensory images offline. For the online results, objective mechanical properties had good correlations with all sensory images except smoothness. Stiffness and warm-cool online scores were higher than the offline ones and the offline drapability was higher than the online one for 100 % wool fabrics. Thus, clothing was generally evaluated online as more hard and moist than real clothing. For the virtual garment evaluation, sensory images had no difference according to wool blending ratio compared with real clothing. Many differences in subjective sensory images between real clothing and virtual garments were observed, except for smoothness and weight images. The results showed that it is difficult to exactly predict the hand and appearance of clothing according to fabric properties using 3D virtual garment system.     

Compression form-fitted athletic wear: Pressure performance,moisture management properties under different tension ratios,and corresponding psychophysical responses

Pressure performance and moisture management properties (MMP) of compression form-fitted athletic wear (CFA) play important role in achieving their mechanical functionality, wearing comfort, and physiological health for athletes during intensive exercises. Based on the 5Ps model, pressure and liquid moisture transfer attributes and their resultant subjective perceptions are analyzed and discussed through adopting objective and subjective measuring methods in this study. The MMP of eight types of fabric specimens were evaluated when the specimens were stretched at tension ratios of 0 %, 10 % and 20 % by applying an innovatively improved moisture management test method. Most of the tested specimens presented satisfied MMP when tested in a relaxed state. Testing under tension status significantly influenced the MMP of the tested specimens. The changes were mainly reflected in the prolonged wetting time, the increased absorption rates at the skin-contacted fabric surface, the reduced wetted radius and spreading speed at outer side of fabric, and the weakened one-way transfer properties. The tested fabrics with stretch of 20 % showed, in general, better performances in MMP than those with a stretch of 10 %. Pressure characteristic values ranging from 1679.88 to 2752.89 Pa on average were extracted from the different six pressure zones around the tested athletes’ bodies. Our improved MMT test method provides a new approach to study the fabric MMP when fabrics are under different tensions. Five sensory dimensions were used to analyze psychophysical responses to the physical stimulus of pressure and MMP, which revealed complex interactive mechanisms existing between pressure action, moisture transfer attributes and comfort perceptions related to compression athletic wear.     

Effect of softeners and crosslinking conditions on the performance of easy-care cotton fabrics with different weave constructions

This study reports an experimental investigation on the effect of softeners, crosslinking conditions, and laundering on the comfort related and low stress mechanical properties of cotton fabrics with different weave constructions. Softeners with different chemical natures, in conjunction with the crosslinking agent and catalyst, were padded onto the cotton fabrics of three types of weave constructions, viz. plain, twill, and a newly developed plant-structured weave design. Two crosslinking conditions, namely dry and moist curing conditions, were compared. Scanning electron microscope (SEM) and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscope were used to visualize and quantify the morphological and chemical changes on fabrics. The experimental results showed that the dry-crosslinking condition is preferable to achieve better comfort and easy-care properties, while moist-crosslinking condition is a better choice when strength-related properties are the main requirement. The study further showed that silicone elastomer softener can be applied to improve fabric strength whereas micro-emulsion of functional amino-polysiloxane plus emulsion containing polyalkylene is beneficial for comfort characteristic. The plant-structured cotton fabric finished in the dry-crosslinking condition with softener in nano-emulsion form can result in superb water absorption, excellent air permeability, good handle, acceptable strength, and improved easycare property.     

Antistatic effect of atmospheric pressure glow discharge cold plasma treatment on textile substrates

Hydrophobic synthetic textile substrates, nylon and polyester fabrics, were continuously treated in an atmospheric-pressure-glow-discharge-cold-plasma reactor using He and air. The samples were evaluated for antistatic properties by measuring the static charge build-up and half charge decay time. The 60 sec air-plasma treated nylon fabric produced only 1.53 kV of charge and showed a significantly smaller half decay time of 0.63 sec compared to static voltage of 2.76 kV and a half decay time of 8.9 sec in the untreated nylon fabric. In comparison, the He plasma treated nylon fabrics showed relatively less improvement by producing static charge built-up of 2.12 kV and half charge decay time of 1.1 sec. Similar improvements were obtained for polyester (PET) fabrics as well. The treated samples showed good antistatic properties even after five laundry wash cycles. The surface characteristics of the samples were investigated using SEM, AFM, and ATR-FTIR. The results revealed that the improvement on antistatic properties are attributable to increase in the surface energy of the fabrics due to the formation of hydrophilic groups and increase in the surface area due to the formation of nano-sized horizontal and vertical channels on the fibre surface. The study suggests that plasma treatment may be used for imparting effective antistatic finish on otherwise hydrophobic substrates.     

Effect of hollow polyester fibres on mechanical properties of knitted wool/polyester fabrics

The physical and mechanical characteristics of hollow polyester fibres were compared with solid polyester fibres in order to establish their processing behaviour and performance characteristics. The effects of hollow fibres on fabric properties were investigated by using microscopy and tests of tensile and bursting strength, pilling, abrasion resistance, water vapour permeability, and handle. The results show that tensile strength of hollow polyester fibres and yarns are negatively affected by the cavity inside the fibre. Hollow fibres also have higher stiffness and resistance to bending at relaxed state. Fabrics made from hollow polyester/wool blends and pure wool fabrics show three distinguishable steps in pilling. During pilling, hollow fibres break before being pulled fully out of the structure, leading to shorter protruding fibres. Microscopy studies showed that the breakdown of hollow fibres started during entanglement by splitting along the helical lines between fibrils. KES results showed that the friction between fibres and the fibre shape are the most important parameters that determine the fabric low stress mechanical properties. However, in some aspects, the hollow structure of the fibre does not have a significant effect.     

Sonicator dyeing of modified cotton, wool and silk with Mahonia napaulensis DC. and identification of the colorant in Mahonia

Mahonia napaulensis DC. (local name—Taming) family Berberidaceae, produces natural dye from its stem which has been used for dyeing textiles by the Apatanis (a tribe of Arunachal Pradesh) since ancient times. Sonicator dyeing with Mahonia napaulensis showed marked improvement in dye uptake. It showed that pretreatment with metal mordant (2%, w/w with respect to the fabric) improved substantially the fastness properties for dyed cotton, silk fabrics and wool yarn. Five fractions were isolated from column chromatography of the stem extract of Mahonia. Attempts have been made to identify these fractions by matching the spectral data which indicated that they were from a well-known isoquinoline alkaloid family.     

Properties of cotton fabric after irradiation with infrared CO2 laser

Thermal effect of interaction between laser beam and fabrics presents a risk of material damage, because strong laser beam energy is applied to a very small area of fabric. At present infrared laser beam is widely applied to decolouration of denim fabrics, cutting of textiles. There were investigated the morphology, color change and mechanical properties of irradiated samples of cotton fabric. Chemical damage of cotton fibers was quantified by copper number and behaviour of dissolved polymer. Results was discussed in connection with practical applications.     

Mechanical properties and tactile sensation of naturally colored organic cotton fabrics

This study was carried out to investigate mechanical properties of naturally colored organic cotton (NaCOC) fabrics, to evaluate tactile sensory perceptions, and finally to identify the related mechanical parameters with the sensory perceptions. Two species, coyote-brown and green NaCOC fiber, commercially available, were selected and woven into plain and twill fabrics. Seventeen mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. Then, primary hand value (PHV) and total hand value (THV) were calculated by KN-203-LDY and KN-302-SUMMER, respectively. For sensory perception evaluation, 30 participants answered the questionnaire consisted of nine different bipolar adjectives dealing with tactile sensation using the semantic differential scale (SDS). As the result of mechanical properties, there were meaningful differences in shear, surface, compression properties, thickness, and weight of 4 NaCOC fabrics. For hand value, a coyotebrown twill fabric was evaluated as the most appropriate for lady’s summer dress applications. In sensory perception evaluation, meaningful differences of sensory perception were shown among 4 specimens except ‘fineness’ and ‘wetness’ perceptions. Prediction models for sensory perceptions of NaCOC fabrics were extracted by regression analysis in ‘softness’, ‘fineness’, ‘warmth’, ‘pliability’, ‘limpness’, ‘thinness’ and ‘wetness’ perceptions.     

Coloration of poly(lactic acid) with disperse dyes. II. Dyeing characteristics and color fastness

In Part 1 of this study, the dyeability, color shade, wash, light fastness and compatibility of homogeneous disperse dyes on PLA fabric and PET fabric were reported. The present paper (Part 2) focuses on the application of commercial disperse dyes to PLA fabric. Specific areas of investigation are the coloration properties of dyes originally intended for the production of high lightfastness polyester fabrics or for application to cellulose diacetate. The compatibility of the eight members of the dye set was investigated. In terms of lightfastness, the ratings were higher than that of conventional disperse dyes. In addition, the use of dye combinations to achieve synergistic uptake on PLA was explored leading to the pronounced synergism with a mixture of CI Disperse Blue 374 and 284.     

Intrinsic differences of sensory analysis from instrumental evaluation on fabric softness by lateral compression

All kinds of instrumental testing methods have been attempted to substitute for sensory analysis of fabric softness, however, the prediction performance is poor. This alone necessitates a deep investigation and understanding of the difference between sensory analysis and instrumental testing under the comparable constrained conditions. By establishing an equivalent biomechanical model to the handling manner in which human fingers sense lateral compression properties of fabric, the mechanistic principle of sensory evaluation on fabric softness property is explored and compared with instrumental testing principle by two proposed indexes, namely the mechanical sensitivity of touch receptors and the sensory sensitivity of human tactile system. The results show that the mechanical sensitivity of human touch receptors leads to the intrinsic difference of sensory analysis from instrumental test on fabric softness by lateral compression. The mechanical sensitivity monotonously changes with the scaling coefficients and the stiffness coefficients of quasi-static and nonlinear compression deformation characterizing both fabric and human skin. The sensory sensitivity depends on both the mechanical sensitivity and the ability of human central system to interpret the information from the peripheral nervous system. The conclusion is that the two-level sensitivity leads to the intrinsic difference between sensory analysis and instrumental evaluation on fabric softness by lateral compression.