Study on characteristics of compact yarns under dynamic state

The dynamic testing conditions simulate actual manufacturing conditions more closely than static testing. In most cases, as results from dynamic tests differ significantly from static tests, dynamic tests are more relevant from the point of view of processing of yarn. The yarns are in motion when they are running on different machines during the production process viz. weaving; knitting etc. Compact ring spun yarns have created a fundamental change how the industry views the ring spinning. The new technology compact yarns such as EliTe® yarns need to be compared with the normal doubled yarns in a dynamic way. This study involves dynamic testing of the EliTe® compact yarns and normal ring spun doubled yarns using CTT (Constant Tension Transport) machine, a versatile test instrument to measure the yarn properties such as dynamic breaking strength, elongation, abrasion, lint, yarn faults (thick, thin places, neps), hairiness etc. EliTe® compact yarns showed higher breaking strength, more elongation, with lesser yarn faults and hairiness, less abrasiveness and less lint generating tendencies during the dynamic testing as compared to the normal ring spun doubled yarns.     

Evolution of moisture management behavior of high-wicking 3D warp knitted spacer fabrics

Moisture management behavior is a vital factor in evaluating thermal and physiological comfort of functional textiles. This research work studies functional 3 dimensional (3D) warp knitted spacer fabrics containing high-wicking materials characterized by their profiled cross section. These spacer fabrics can be used for protective vest to absorb a user’s sweat, to reduce the humidity and improve user’s thermal comfort. For this reason, different 3D warp knitted spacer fabrics were produced with functional fiber yarns in the back layer of the fabric (close to the body) and polyester in the front and middle layers (outer surface). Comfort properties such as air and water vapor permeability and wicking and other moisture management properties (MMP) of different fabric samples were measured. It is demonstrated that by using profiled fibers such as Coolmax fiber, moisture management properties of spacer fabrics can be improved, enabling them to be use as a snug-fitting shirt worn under protective vests with improved comfort.     

Moisture and thermal permeability of the hollow textured PET imbedded woven fabrics for high emotional garments

This study examined the effects of the total porosity, pore size, and cover factor on the moisture and thermal permeability of woven fabrics made from DTY (draw textured yarns) and ATY (air jet textured yarns) composite yarns with hollow PET (polyethylene terephthalate) yarns. The wicking of the hollow composite yarn fabrics was found to be superior to that of the high twisted yarn fabrics, which may be due to the high porosity in the hollow composites yarns, but this was not related to the cover factor. The drying characteristics of the hollow composite yarn fabric with high porosity were inferior compared to the high twisted yarn fabrics due to the large amounts of liquid water in the large pores, which resulted in a longer drying time of the fabric. The thermal conductivity of the hollow composite yarn fabrics decreased with increasing measured pore diameter due to the bulky yarn structure. The effects of the hollowness of the yarn on the thermal conductivity were more dominant than those of the yarn structural parameters. The air permeability increased with increasing measured pore diameter but the effects of the cover factor on the air permeability were not observed in the hollow composite yarn fabrics. The effects of porosity on the moisture and thermal permeability of the woven fabrics made from the hollow composite filaments were found to be critical, i.e., wicking and air permeability increase with increasing porosity. In addition, the drying rate increased with increasing porosity and the thermal conductivity decreased with increasing pore diameter, but were independent of the cover factor.     

Dimensional,physical and thermal properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 50/50 blend of modal viscose fiber in microfiber form with cotton fiber

In this study, the dimensional, physical and thermal comfort properties of the plain knitted fabrics made from 50/50 blend of modal viscose fiber in microfiber form with cotton fiber are compared with those of the similar fabrics made from 50/50 blend of conventional modal viscose fiber with cotton fiber and made from 100 % cotton fiber. All the fabric types are produced in three different stitch lengths. The slight differences among the fabric types are observed in terms of the stitch density results and the dimensional constants calculated in the fully relaxed state. In the fully relaxed state, the dimensional K values of the modal microfiber blended knitted fabrics are found to be more closely resemble those of the cotton fabrics rather than those of the conventional modal fiber blended fabrics. The lowest fabric thickness and bursting strength results are obtained for the modal microfiber blended fabrics. The modal microfiber blended fabrics reveal lower air permeability than the conventional modal fiber blended fabrics and higher air permeability than the cotton fabrics. It is also observed from the thermal comfort results that the modal microfiber blended fabrics have the lowest thermal resistance and the highest thermal absoptivity values. The thermal conductivity results of the modal microfiber blended fabrics are lower than those of the cotton fabrics and higher than those of the conventional modal fiber blended fabrics. Because of the highest thermal absorptivity values, the modal microfiber blended fabrics provide the coolest feeling when compared with the other two fabric types.     

Flame-Retardant and Wear Comfort Properties of Modacrylic/FR-Rayon/Anti-static PET Blend Yarns and Their Woven Fabrics for Clothing

This study examined the flame retardant, anti-static, and wear comfort properties of woven fabrics from two types of yarns composed of modacrylic, FR-rayon, cotton, and anti-static PET fibers. The FR-rayon-blended modacrylic fabric mixed with anti-static PET fibers exhibited better flame-retardant and anti-static properties than those of the cotton-blended modacrylic fabric. In addition, the absorption and drying properties of the FR-rayon-blended modacrylic fabric were superior to those of the cotton-blended modacrylic fabric. The thermal conductivity of the FR-rayon-blended fabric was lower than that of the cotton-blended one, whereas the water vapor permeability was slightly higher than that of the cotton-blended one. These wear comfort properties of the FR-rayon-blended fabric were attributed to the micro-pores and longer fiber length of the FR-rayon fibers, as well as their yarn and fabric structural parameters. This study suggests that FR-rayon-blended modacrylic fabric has better flame-retardant and anti-static properties in both twill and rip weaves with good warmth keepability, and higher water and vapor transmission properties than cotton-blended one. In addition, the FR-rayon-blended modacrylic clothing exhibited a better wear comfort feel than the cotton-blended one due to the lower microclimate humidity. This means that FR-rayon-blended modacrylic fabric makes it more comfortable to wear than cotton-blended one.     

Dimensional and physical properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 50/50 bamboo/cotton blended yarns

In this study, the dimensional and some physical properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 50/50 bamboo/cotton blended yarns are investigated. In order to see the differences and similarities, the results are then compared with those for similar fabrics knitted from 50/50 conventional viscose/cotton and 50/50 modal/cotton blended yarns. Each fabric type was produced with three different stitch lengths. After all fabrics were dyed under identical dyeing conditions, they were subjected to dry and full relaxation treatments. For dimensional properties of fabrics, course, wale and stitch densities were measured. Then, by calculating statistically best-fit lines passing both through the experimental points and the origin, dimensional constants i.e. k values were predicted in terms of the fiber types. The result show that each fabric type knitted from bamboo/cotton, viscose/cotton and modal/cotton blended yarns behaves in a similar manner. However, in both dry and fully relaxed states, the modal/cotton knitted fabrics tend to have slightly higher k values than the bamboo/cotton and viscose/cotton knitted fabrics. For physical properties, fabric weight per unit area, thickness, bursting strength, air permeability and pilling were evaluated. The results show that the weight, thickness and air permeability values are independent of the fiber type. Plain knitted fabrics from modal/cotton blended yarns have the highest bursting strength values. Plain knitted fabrics from bamboo/cotton blended yarns tend to pill less.     

Effect of repeated laundering and Dry-cleaning on the thermo-physiological comfort properties of aramid fabrics

This research investigated the effect of repeated laundering and dry-cleaning on the physical and thermophysiological comfort properties such as air permeability, water vapour resistance and thermal resistance of fabrics made of meta-aramid (Nomex®) fibre. Two different types of fabric were selected for the study and subjected to repeated laundering and dry-cleaning (1, 5 and 10 cycles), which is commercially used for the care and maintenance of these fabrics. The fabric thickness, areal density, thermal resistance and water vapour resistance values increased with the number of laundering cycles, whereas the air permeability decreased due to the fabric shrinkage and swelling. On the other hand, the thickness and air permeability of the dry-cleaned fabric samples increased with the number of cycles; while the water vapour resistance and thermal resistance decreased. The scanning electron microscopy images showed the structural changes as indicated by the longitudinal fibrillation in the fabrics subjected to laundering or dry-cleaning.     

Transport properties of layered fabric systems based on electrospun nanofibers

Layered fabric systems with electrospun polyurethane fiber web layered on spunbonded nonwoven were developed to examine the feasibility of developing protective textile materials as barriers to liquid penetration using electrospinning. Barrier performance was evaluated for layered fabric systems, using pesticide mixtures that represent a range of surface tension and viscosity. Air permeability and water vapor transmission were assessed as indications of thermal comfort performance. Protection performance and air/moisture vapor transport properties were compared for layered fabric systems and existing materials for personal protective equipment (PPE). Layered fabric systems with electrospun nanofiber web showed barrier performance in the range between microporous materials and nonwovens used for protective clothing. Layered fabric structures with the web area density of 1.0 and 2.0 g/m² exhibited air permeability higher than most PPE materials currently in use; moisture vapor transport was in a range comparable to nonwovens and typical woven work clothing fabrics. Comparisons of layered fabric systems and currently available PPE materials indicate that barrier/transport properties that may not be attainable with existing PPE materials could be achieved from layered fabric systems with electrospun nanofibrous web.     

Antimicrobial treatment properties of Tencel Jacquard fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener

Tencel Jacquard fabric is one of the eco-fabrics used for underwear, sportswear, bedclothes, clothes for aged people, and hospital textiles. It is popular for these uses because it is easy to process into yarns and fabrics alone or in blends, very stable in washing and drying, thermally stable, and easy to dye with deep vibrant colors using direct, reactive, or vat dyes. In order to provide antimicrobial properties for Tencel Jacquard fabrics, they were treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener using two different processes so the results could be compared. One of the processes treated the fabrics with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener simultaneously, and the other process treated the fabrics with these agents sequentially. The treated Tencel Jacquard fabrics were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, and their antimicrobial properties were evaluated. In addition, water repellency, air permeability, water vapor permeability, and yellowness were measured. It was observed that the ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener were present on the surface of the treated fibers, and the quantity of these agents before and after laundering was proportional to the measured antimicrobial activity of the fabrics before and after laundering. Fabrics treated with both agents had stronger water/oil repellency than fabrics treated with only ginkgo biloba extract. As the quantities of the two treating agents on fabrics were increased, their air permeability and water vapor permeability decreased. No significant changes were observed for yellowness based on the amounts of treating agents applied. From these results, it is expected that Tencel fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener are excellent for use as bedclothes.     

Dimensional stability of single jersey fabrics of LincLITE® and conventional yarns. I

Dimensional constants (k values) of single jersey fabrics made from LincLITE® and conventional yarns are calculated under dry, steam, full relaxation treatments. Fabrics were made under different tightness factors such as high, medium and low with different twist factors, twist directions and feeder blending. LincLITE® yarns made to get soft and bulkier effects with yarn count of 39 tex and conventional yarns made into 39 tex and 48 tex yarn counts. Various effects on K values are analysed using correlation coefficients. K-values are increased with relaxation progression and have shown some differences between in LincLITE® and conventional fabrics, and feeder blended fabrics. Loop shape factor is highly affected by tightness factor, relaxation and feeder blending in LincLITE® fabrics, whereas twist factor not significantly effects on loop shape factor in conventional fabrics. Stitch density significantly increases with relaxation in conventional fabrics and no significant effect shows with LincLITE® fabrics.     

Investigation on hydrostatic resistance and thermal performance of layered waterproof breathable fabrics

Waterproof breathable layered fabrics allow water vapor passing through, but resist liquid water to pass. This ability of the fabrics to protect rain and snow water while allowing sweat vapor to evaporate from inside to outside atmosphere, leads them to be used as outdoor sportswear or protective clothing. The big challenge of enhanced hydrostatic resistance of these fabrics with proper breathability and thermal comfort has widened the research scope. This study presents an experimental investigation on hydrostatic resistance and thermal behavior of layered waterproof breathable fabrics. Six different types of hydrophobic and hydrophilic membrane laminated layered fabrics were evaluated by varying different fabric parameters in the experiment. Hydrostatic resistance and water vapor permeability of the laminated fabrics were measured by SDL ATLAS Hydrostatic Head Tester and PERMETEST respectively. Thermal properties were evaluated by ALAMBETA instrument. Moreover, FX-3300 air permeability tester was used to measure air permeability which represents the porosity of the fabrics and computer based See System software was used for water contact angle measurement on the outer fabric surface in order to determine the hydrophobic and hydrophilic properties. This experiment clearly discusses the influence of different fabric characteristics and parameters on hydrostatic resistance and thermal properties of the breathable laminated fabrics. The results show that fabric material composition, density, thickness, and hydrophobic and hydrophilic membranes have significant effects on hydrostatic resistance, breathability and thermal properties of different laminated fabrics.     

Application of electrospun polyurethane web to breathable water-proof fabrics

Electrospun web may possibly be widely applied to protective garments or specialty textiles due to its high level of protection as well as comfort. Of particular interest in this study is to develop waterproof-breathable fabric by applying electrospun web of polyurethane directly onto the substrate fabric. The optimal electrospinning condition was examined with regards to the concentration, applied voltage and tip-to-collector distance. Solvent-electospinning of polyurethane was performed at the optimum condition, using N,N-dimethylacetamide as solvent. The thickness of 0.02 mm of electrospun web was applied onto the polyester/nylon blended fabric. For comparison, the polyester/nylon fabrics were coated with 0.02 mm thickness of polyurethane resin membranes adopting four different conditions. The electrospun PU web/fabric was compared to resin coated fabrics in terms of water-proof and breathable properties. The electrospun web applied fabric showed higher air permeability, vapor transmission, and thermal insulation properties than resin coated fabrics, which can be translated as greater comfort sensation of electrospun applied fabrics. However, water resistance value of electrospun web applied fabric did not reach that of resin coated fabrics.     

Study on antibacterial and comfort performances of cotton fabric finished by chitosan-silver for intimate apparel

The fabric used for intimate apparel is widely required to have excellent antibacterial and comfort performances. In order to improve its antibacterial ability, this paper studied chitosan-silver finishing on the cotton knitted fabric. The study indicates that the chitosan-silver attached to the fabric exhibits excellent antibacterial action against the typical bacteria of Escherichia coli (E. coli) and Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureu). The anti-bacterial mechanism of chitosan-silver against E. coli and S. aureu were investigated. To guarantee its prominent comfort performance, measurements were made on the finished fabric of its air permeability, water vapor transmission, hydrophily, surface friction and bending ability against the control fabric, which is currently used for intimate apparel. The antibacterial and comfort performances were compared between the tested fabrics. The results show that the air permeability and the hydrophily of the finished cotton fabric are significantly better than the control one, while the water vapor transmission, the surface friction and the adjustable rate remain similar to each other. The bending rigidity of the finished fabric is slightly better due to the attachment of chitosan within accepted threshold. The dual compounding theory of chitosan-silver proves to be useful for a higher synergistic effect of anti-bacteria, lower whiteness degradation and overall optimization of comfort performance. This dual compounding theory of chitosan-silver is valuable for improving antibacterial and comfort performances of intimate apparel.     

Effect of ultrasonic laundering on thermophysiological properties of knitted fabrics

The paper focuses on the application of ultrasonic energy in textile laundering. In recent years, there has been an increasing interest in ultrasonic energy application in textile industry; however, the effect of ultrasonic laundering on the thermophysiological properties of knitted fabrics has not been studied yet. This study was conducted by using polylactic acid (PLA), cotton, polyethylene terephthalate (PET), and poly acrylic (PAC) fibres containing yarns and their blends. Knitted fabrics, single pique, were made from these yarns by using weft knitting machine. The fabrics were washed ten times for 15 and 60 minutes under 40 °C by using conventional and ultrasonic washing methods. The main aim was to determine the effect of washing methods on the thermophysiological properties of the fabrics. It is also aimed to analyse and evaluate the thermophysiological properties of the PLA fabrics. The incorporation of 100 % PLA and cotton/PLA yarns into single pique knitted fabrics has been attempted to produce for the first time and studied their thermal comfort properties. The results show that the washing processes have a critical importance for the tested fabrics in terms of thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, thermal absorbtivity, water vapour permeability, and heat loss. It has been also demonstrated that the fabric cleaning by using ultrasonic method enhanced the properties of tested fabrics such as thermal conductivity and % recovery. It was also noted that 15 minutes ultrasonically washed fabrics had significantly lower thermal resistance as compared to conventionally washed fabrics.     

Dimensional,physical and thermal comfort properties of plain knitted fabrics made from modal viscose yarns having microfibers and conventional fibers

The dimensional, some physical and thermal comfort properties of the plain knitted fabrics having modal viscose microfibers in three different stitch lengths are investigated in comparison with the similar fabrics having conventional modal viscose fibers. The fabrics made from microfibers and conventional fibers exhibit different dimensional properties. The stitch density results and the dimensional constants calculated at the fully relaxed state reveal that the fabrics with microfibers tend to have lower shrinkage tendency than those with conventional fibers. The statistical results show that the fiber type (or fiber fineness) and the stitch length affect the some physical properties and all of the thermal comfort properties of the fabrics significantly. The bursting strength values of the fabrics with microfibers are observed to be slightly higher than those of the fabrics with conventional fibers. However, the difference between the bursting strength values of these fabrics is found to be statistically unimportant. The fabrics with microfibers reveal lower thickness and air permeability and, higher pilling tendency than those with conventional fibers. It is also observed from the thermal comfort results that the fabrics made from microfibers have higher thermal conductivity, thermal absorptivity and maximum heat flux values and, lower thermal resistance and thermal diffusivity values. Because of the higher thermal absorptivity and maximum heat flux values, the fabrics from microfibers provide cooler feeling when compared with those from conventional fibers.     

Study of moisture and thermal transfer properties as a function of the fiber material variation

The properties of moisture transfer and the comfort of mesh-structured fabrics with various knit compositions and properties were investigated. The comfort effects of the double knitted fabrics combined with different cross-shaped fibers composed of dyeable-polypropylene (PPd) and regular polyester (PET) double-knitted fabrics were studied. A series of PET, PPd, Coolmax^® (Cm) with single knitted fabrics and PPd/Cm with double knitted fabrics were evaluated to determine the physical properties and wearing performance for comfortable clothing. To compare the structural properties involving the vapor transfer of 4 types of fabrics with different fiber compositions, fiber types, weights, and thicknesses, the surface structure and pore characteristics were evaluated by scanning electron microscopy and a capillary flow porometer. The properties of moisture transfer were tested using vertical wicking and gravimetric absorbent testing system (GATS). In addition, the comfort performance measured by the thermal insulation value (Rt) and moisture permeability index (im) with a thermal manikin in a conditioned walk-in environmental test chamber was predicted. The result showed that the PPd/Cm sample has potential applications as good comfort fabric materials.     

Color and whiteness properties of fabrics knitted from different hybrid core-spun yarns containing metal wire

In this study, the color and whiteness properties of fabrics knitted from ring, siro and compact core-spun yarns containing metal wire were investigated. In general, an increase in the metal ratio of yarns causes a decrease in the whiteness and color strengths of fabrics. In our study, spinning method had no statistically significant effect on either the T _w or K/S values of fabrics while the effect of spinning method on the whiteness index of fabrics was briefly observed. Fabrics knitted from siro spun yarns showed higher whiteness properties than those of fabrics knitted from compact and ring spun yarns. This might be explained by the superior covering effectiveness of the siro spinning method on metal wire.     

Comfort and handle related properties of P/V blended air-jet textured yarn fabrics

The effect of blend percentage on comfort and handle related properties of fabrics made from polyester/viscose blended air-jet textured yarn weft were studied and the results were compared with fabrics made from polyester/viscose ring-spun yarn wefts of similar linear densities. It is observed that with increase in polyester content in the blend, the air permeability and water vapour permeability reduces whereas thermal resistance, transverse wicking and shear rigidity increases both in ring-spun yarn and textured yarn fabrics and bending rigidity increases in textured yarn fabrics. Textured yarn fabrics exhibit lower air permeability and extensibility, higher thermal resistance, relative water vapour permeability, transverse wicking values and bending rigidity as compared to the ring-spun yarn fabrics.     

Designing waterproof breathable materials based on electrospun nanofibers and assessing the performance characteristics

To develop waterproof breathable materials for diverse consumer applications, we used electrospinning to fabricate layered fabric systems with varying composite structures. Specifically, we developed layered fabric structures based on electrospun nanofiber webs with different levels of nanofiber web density, as well as different substrates and layer structures, and then examined the breathability and waterproofness of the material. The breathability and waterproofness of the layered fabric systems were compared with those of traditional waterproof breathable fabrics, including densely woven fabric, microporous membrane laminated fabric, and hydrophilic nonporous polyurethane coated fabric. Different breathability and barrier performance levels were achieved by varying the layer structure and substrates in the electrospun nanofiber web layered fabric systems. The uniformity of the nanofiber web and lamination process also affected the barrier and comfort performances. The comparison of waterproofness and breathability performances between the new materials and the traditional waterproof breathable materials revealed that the layered structures based on electrospun nanofiber webs provide a higher level of resistance to water penetration than densely woven fabrics and a higher degree of moisture vapor and air permeability than microporous membrane laminates and coated fabrics, with a proper selection of layer structure, substrate fabric, and lamination process.