Effect of color changes of naturally colored organic cotton fibers on human sensory perception

This study aims to investigate the color changes of Naturally Colored Organic Cotton (NaCOC) fibers after scouring, and to evaluate the human sensory perception for the fibers. Furthermore, it tries to observe the relationship between the color coordinates and the sensory perception. Three colors (ivory, coyote-brown, green) of NaCOC fibers were scoured under four different treatments (boiling water, enzyme, sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide). The color coordinates (L, a, b) were measured in CIELAB using spectrophotometer (SP62, X-Rite), and color differences (ΔL, Δa, Δb, ΔE) were calculated. Human sensory perception for the NaCOCs was evaluated by 27 female participants. The questionnaire consisted of nine pairs of bipolar visual sensory adjectives using the SDS. The values of L and b fell, while the value of a arose after scouring in general. The value of ΔE was the highest when treated with alkali solutions among all treatments. Human sensory perception such as brightness, clearness, lightness and freshness generally decreased, while vividness and strength increased. The meaningful color factors to predict brightness, lightness were L and ΔL, and those to predict vividness and strength sensory were ΔL.     

A study on subjective assessment of knit fabric by ANFIS

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective perception of textures, sensibilities, and preference among consumers. This study, then, aimed to provide useful information with respect to planning and designing knitted fabrics by predicting the subjective characteristics analyzed according to their structural properties. For this purpose, we employed statistical analysis tools, such as factor and regression analysis and an adaptive-network-based fuzzy inference system(ANFIS), thereby combining the merits of fuzzy and neural networks and presupposing a non-linear relationship. Through factor analysis, we also categorized the subjective textures into ‘roughness’, ‘softness’, ‘bulkiness’ and ‘stretch-ability’ with R2=70.32 %: and categorized the sensibilities into ‘Stable/Neat’, ‘Natural/Comfortable’ and ‘Feminine/Elegant’ with R2=68.12 %. We analyzed subjective textures, sensibilities, and preference with ANFIS, assuming non-linear relationships; consequently, we were able to generate three or four fuzzy rules using wool/rayon fiber content and loop length as input data. The textures of roughness and softness exhibited a linear relationship, but other subjective characteristics demonstrated a non-linear input-output relationship. Compared with linear regression analysis, the ANFIS exhibited had higher predictive power with respect to predicting subjective characteristics.     

The psycho-physiological response of polyethylene terephthalate irradiated by ultra-violet: Subjective fabric hand and wear comfort

The purpose of this study was to compare the subjective fabric hand evaluation and wear comfort of PET treated by Ultraviolet and to evaluate the subjective results from the investigation of microclimate temperature. The subjective hand evaluation was performed by 20 subjects (age: 20–25) with 5-point scale questionnaires to investigate the change of PET knit fabrics treated for different times, specifically, 0, 30 and 90 minutes. The questionnaires were composite with 8 questions; roughness, smoothness, wetness, stiffness, coolness, touch, preference, and comfort. In order to evaluate sensations of wear comfort, we made garments with UV treated fabric and five female students were tested. They walked at the speed of 6.7 km/hr for 15 minutes in an environment, which was controlled at 29°C, 75±5 % RH. Before and after exercising, the microclimate under clothing and subjective wear comfort was measured. The results of subjective evaluation of fabric hand were that untreated and treated for 30 minutes PET were recognized as similar and have a good evaluation on comfort, preference, and touch. According to the result of wear comfort, clothing treated by UV for 90 minutes had the lowest value on the thermal and humidity sensations. In addition, the value of tactile and comfort sensation was the highest on the clothing treated by UV for 90 minutes. In the case of objective evaluation, PET treated for 90 minutes was the lowest on microclimate humidity. PET irradiated by UV for 90 minutes was more ‘cool’ in thermal sensation and more ‘dry’ in wet sensation. Accordingly, it was consistent with the result of subjective wear comfort.     

Pomological and Nutraceutical Properties in Apricot Fruit: Cultivation Systems and Cold Storage Fruit Management

We have investigated the effect of cultivation systems and fruit post-harvest management on the antioxidant properties of apricot fruits. Trees of five cultivars ‘Tyrinthos’, ‘Cafona’, ‘Bella d’Italia’, ‘Vitillo’ and ‘Pellecchiella’ were cultivated under integrated and organic systems. Fruits were collected at full maturity stage and analyzed either immediately or after storage at 4±0.5 °C and 85% of relative humidity for seven and 14 days. The main pomological traits (weight, colour, flesh firmness, total soluble sugars, titratable acidity) and antioxidant properties were analyzed. The total antioxidant capacity (TAC by TEAC method), total phenols content (TP by Folin-Ciocalteu method) and carotenoid content by HPLC-DAD were monitored. Cultivar characterization by principal component analysis (PCA) indicated a large variability on pomological and antioxidant properties of apricot fruits. ‘Bella d’Italia’ showed better TAC and TP values compared to the other cultivars. ANOVA interactions between cultivar and cultivation system (organic/integrated) were found for the antioxidant properties. These interactions may help to select a set of genotypes with better performances under organic system, which in our study might be indicated in ‘Cafona’ and ‘Bella d’Italia’.     

Variation in Contents of Total Phenolics and Flavonoids and Antioxidant Activities in the Leaves of 11 <Emphasis Type="Italic">Eriobotrya</Emphasis> Species

Eriobotrya plants are known to have significant amounts of phenolics and flavonoids, and exhibit a strong antioxidant activity. Experiments were conducted to examine variation in the contents of total phenolics and flavonoids, and antioxidant activities in the leaves of 11 Eriobotrya species (Tibet loquat, Daduhe loquat, Hengchun loquat, Taiwan loquat, Oak leaf loquat, Bengal loquat, Fragrant loquat, Guangxi loquat, Obovate loquat, Big flower loquat, and common loquat, the last species include two materials, one is a cultivar ‘Zaozhong 6’, another is a wild tree). In these species, ‘Zaozhong 6′ loquat is a cultivar. The leaf extracts of ‘Tibet’, ‘Obovate’, ‘Taiwan’, ‘Bengal’ and ‘Hengchun’ loquats exhibited significantly higher contents of total flavonoids and total phenolics, compared with those of other species. Of these 11 species, the highest contents of total phenolics and total flavonoids were observed in ‘Tibet’ and ‘Obovatae’ loquats, respectively. The significantly stronger antioxidant abilities assessed by the DPPH radical scavenging activity and reducing power were obtained in the leaf extracts of ‘Taiwan’, ‘Tibet’, ‘Bengal’, ‘Oak leaf’, ‘Hengchun’ and ‘Obovate’ loquats, compared with the other species. In addition, significant correlations were found between the contents of total phenolics or flavonoids and DPPH radical scavenging activity/reducing power. This work indicates that the leaf extracts of the wild Eriobotrya species, ‘Tibet’, ‘Obovatae’, ‘Taiwan’, ‘Bengal’, ‘Oak leaf’ and ‘Hengchun’ loquats, exhibited significantly higher levels of total phenolics and flavonoids, and significantly stronger antioxidant activities, compared with the cultivated species, ‘Zaozhong 6′ loquat, which suggests that these wild species have a better utilization value.     

Colorimetric properties and color sensibility of naturally colored organic cotton fabrics

This study was done to propose color conditions and fabrics that satisfy the particular sensibilities of consumers and producers through an analysis of color sensibility factors for an environmentally-friendly material, i.e., naturally colored organic cotton (NaCOC) fabrics. Toward that end, the colorimetric properties of eight NaCOC fabrics were measured, and the fabrics?? subjective color sensibilities were evaluated. In addition, based on the relationship between the colorimetric properties and subjective color sensibilities, the prediction models for color sensibilities of NaCOC fabrics were developed. According to the established models, hard-soft, cool-warm, deep-pale, vague-distinct, plain-showy, and subdued-vivid sensibilities can be predicted by some variables of colorimetric properties such as L*, a*, C*, and h. As another ultimate goal of this study, suitable NaCOC fabrics to evoke certain sensibilities were proposed by multidimensional scaling method. The proposed fabrics and color sensibility factors are believed to offer an important guideline for those who design clothing products made of NaCOC.     

Effect of selected Egyptian cooking methods on faba bean nutritive value and dietary protein utilization 2: Ability of faba bean products to support hemoglobin response in rats

To evaluate the dietary protein utilization and iron deficiency anemia as affected by the faba bean nutrient intake, a bioassay with rats was carried out with different experimental diets containing four faba bean products (stewed beans ‘Medammis’, deep fried dough ‘Falafel’, boiled germinated beans ‘Nabet Soup’ and poured paste ‘Bissara’) widely consumed in the Middle East. Amino acid composition of all faba bean products was determined and compared to raw beans. Severe heat-processing markedly decreased some essential amino acids, especially phenylalanine, cystine, methionine and tryptophan. Protein scores were 24.6, 19.5, 29.2, 28.2 and 35.6 for raw faba beans, ‘Medammis’, ‘Falafel’, ‘Nabet Soup’ and ‘Bissara’, respectively. ‘Bissara’ possessed the highest nutritional value, since it had the lowest GDR value [Grams consumed of product to cover the daily requirements for adult man in protein (63 g) and in energy (2900 kcal)] for the limiting amino acids (L A A). As indicated by P S/150 values [Satisfaction of the daily requirements of the adult man when 150 g (one can content) are consumed of product] for L A A, i.e. methionine+cystine (lowest P S/150 value), the above-mentioned faba bean products cover about 53, 77, 77 and 97% of the daily requirements of adult man in L A A, respectively. Fecal nitrogen excretion increased and true nitrogen digestibility decreased significantly (p<0.01) with the inclusion of ‘Medammis’ in the diet. ‘Nabet Soup’ exhibited the highest true nitrogen digestibility. In contrast, the biological value of nitrogen was apparently unaffected. Highest blood hemoglobin level was found in rats fed diets containing ‘Bissara’, ‘Falafel’ and ‘Nabet Soup’, whereas the addition of ‘Medammis’ in the diet induced a significant (p<0.05) reduction in blood hemoglobin level of fed rats.     

Dimensional and mechanical characterization of newly developed denim fabrics based on experimentally determined property-structural pattern relations for upholstery applications

The aim of this study was to develop new pattern denim fabrics and characterize the dimensional, the abrasion and pilling properties of these fabrics. Furthermore, tensile and tear strengths of these fabrics were determined. The potential enduses of pattern denim fabrics were evaluated by comparing the test results with traditional denim fabrics. The produced fabrics were classified as ‘Design group I’ and ‘Design group II’. In design group I, the fabrics had small structural patterns whereas the structural patterns of the fabrics of design group II were large. The dimensional properties and weights of developed pattern denim fabrics in both of the design groups were different in terms of weft densities, structural pattern sizes which influenced the numbers, directions and distributions of warp-weft interlacement. The abrasion behaviours of the traditional denim fabrics and the fabrics with large-small structural patterns were similar. However, it was determined that the fabrics with large and small patterns were abraded on the earlier abrasion cycles compared to the traditional denim fabrics. The pilling resistances of the fabrics not only depended on the hairiness levels of the yarns used during weaving, but also on the pattern sizes of the fabrics. The small structural pattern fabrics showed more resistance to pilling than those of the large structural pattern fabrics. There was a decrease on the warp and weft tensile strengths of the large structural pattern fabrics in comparison with the traditional denim fabrics. The average tear strengths of the large structural pattern denim fabrics on the warp course were higher than those of the traditional denim fabrics while the tear strengths of the large pattern and traditional denim fabrics on the weft course were similar to each other. The end-uses of the newly developed structural pattern denim fabrics were recommended as home textile.     

A colorimetric quantification of softened polylactic acid and polyester filament knitted fabrics to ‘Water-spotting’

Water droplets falling onto finished fabrics can create spots which can spoil the appearance of the fabric. This study compares the propensity of softened filament polylactic acid and polyester fabrics to exhibit the adverse affects of ‘water-spotting’, and to identify suitable softeners and methods for their application to minimise and eliminate the problem. The degree of water spotting was greater on softened polylactic acid fabrics than on softened polyester fabrics. Polylactic acid and polyester fabrics with hydrophobic properties did not exhibit any water spotting. Softeners applied by an exhaustion process resulted in a finished fabric which exhibited no water spotting for either dyed polylactic acid or dyed polyester fabrics. The softening active agent was not responsible for the water spotting. The other components in the softener formulation (such as emulsifier, wetting agent), which carries the unfixed dyes with water, were found to be responsible. The water spot halo disappeared after a single machine laundering process.     

Effects of softeners and laundering on the handle of knitted PLA filament fabrics

We have studied the effects of softeners and repeated laundering on the handle of knitted fabrics constructed from poly(lactic acid) (PLA) filament yarns derived from corn-starch. The fabrics were assessed: a) subjectively, via a panel of volunteers, in terms of their perceived softness and ‘scroopiness’; and b) objectively, using a Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F), in terms of their low-stress mechanical properties. The study employed two fabric variants and a range of commercial softeners in an attempt to determine the combination that would provide optimal handle and durability to laundering. We found the standard KES-F parameters B, 2HB, G, 2HG, and SMD to be generally well-correlated with the subjective assessment of softness and scroopiness. Although repeated laundering reduced somewhat the beneficial effects of the softeners, this deterioration was not severe, and we were able to identify specific formulations that can provide good handle coupled with acceptable durability. The fabric handle was seen to be influenced by the chemical nature of the softening agent, the type of emulsion employed and the degree of hydrophobicity (assessed in terms of wettability); on the other hand, the ionicity of the softener appeared not to play a significant role.     

Evaluation of the Biochemical Components and Chromatic Properties of the Juice of <Emphasis Type="Italic">Vaccinium macrocarpon</Emphasis> Aiton and <Emphasis Type="Italic">Vaccinium oxycoccos</Emphasis> L.

Benzoic acid, total anthocyanins, soluble solids, titratable acidity, and colour properties in juice of the American cranberry Vaccinium macrocarpon and the European cranberry Vaccinium oxycoccos were investigated. Berry juices of V. macrocarpon cultivars were distinguished by their higher total anthocyanin and benzoic acid amounts. These cultivars accumulated on average 43.11 mg/l of benzoic acid and 92.45 mg/l of total anthocyanins. The levels of benzoic acid and total anthocyanins in V. oxycoccos cultivars were 17.52 mg/l and 42.54 mg/l, respectively. The V. macrocarpon cultivars ‘Franklin’, ‘Le Munyon’, ‘Searles’, and ‘Early Richard’ were selected as the best according to the enhanced total anthocyanins and benzoic acid amounts. The separation of anthocyanins by HPLC-UV-VIS revealed the presence of six anthocyanins, with peonidin-3-galactoside being the most prevalent. Galactoside together with glucoside conjugates comprised the largest percentage of total anthocyanins in the juices of V. macrocarpon and V. oxycoccos cultivars.     

Beitrag zur Bestimmung der relativen Resistenz gegen Potato Virus X (PVX) an In-vitro-Pflanzen der Kartoffel

Zusammenfassung In-vitro-Pflanzen von PVX-resistenten (‘Schwalbe’, ‘Karella N’) und--anf?lligen Genotypen (‘Turbella N’, ‘Ogonjok’) in unsteriler Kultur auf Kiessubstrat wurden mechanisch inokuliert (Isolat PVX-‘Erstling’, Glasst?bchen). Eine quantitative Absch?tzung der relativen Viruskonzentration mittels ELISA 7...42 Tage nach der Inokulation (dpi) ergab bei den resistenten Genotypen im Mittel von 5 Versuchen mit 82 und 83% (70...90%) einen gegenüber den anf?lligen Formen (19 und 20%, 0...40%) signifikant h?heren Anteil Pflanzen mit gehemmter Virusvermehrung (E_{405 nm}≤1,0). Eine damit übereinstimmende Einstufung erfuhren die 4 geprüften Genotypen bei Absch?tzung der relativen Viruskonzentration an prim?rinfizierten Topf- und sekund?rinfizierten Freilandpflanzen.

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Summary The suitability of in vitro plants for determining relative (quantitative) PVX resistance was examined using resistant (‘Schwalbe’, ‘Karella N’) and susceptible (‘Turbella N’, ‘Ogonjok’) genotypes. They were grown in non-sterile gravel augmented with 2 ml of 0.45% Wopil solution (a mixture of nutrient salts with trace elements; VEB Chemiekombinat, Bitterfeld, DDR) and mechanically inoculated (glass rod) with the ‘Erstling’ isolate of PVX. The relative virus concentration in 10–15 in vitro plantlets of each genotype was estimated quantitatively using ELISA after 7, 14, 21, 28, 35 and 42 days (Fig. 1). The resistant genotypes had significantly higher proportions of plants with restricted virus multiplication (E_{405 nm}≤1.0) than the susceptible ones: means over five experiments were 82 and 83% for the resistant genotypes (70...90%) and 19 and 20% for the susceptible (0...40%)-Fig. 2. Estimation of the virus concentration in primary infected pot and secondary infected field plants of the four tested genotypes showed good agreement with established resistance rankings.

     

The response of potato (Solanum spp.) to photoperiod and light intensity under high temperatures

Summary The growth, development and yield of seven cultivars were evaluated under field conditions with photoperiods from 11.5 to 16 hours and light intensities from full light (≧12 MJ/m²/day) to only 42% light in in 3 experiments in the Philippines. The longer photoperiod significantly delayed and reduced tuberization, promoted profuse haulm growth, resulting in: more branching, increased plant height, more flowering, many secondary stems and delayed plant senescence. ‘DTO-33’ was least affected by long photoperiod, followed by ‘Red Pontiac’ and ‘Désirée’. Shading resulted in delayed tuber initiation, taller plants, thinner stems, smaller leaves but longer canopy duration and a slightly larger canopy. ‘DTO-33’ was least affected by shading followed by ‘Désirée’, ‘LT-2’ and ’Red Pontiac’. ‘LT-5’ and ‘P-3’ suffered the greatest tuber yield reduction through shading.     

New insight into compressive shrinkage finishing in a garment company: The effects on physical,mechanical and colorimetric properties of cotton woven fabrics

Compressive shrinkage or compressive shrinkage finishing is one of the most important finishing procedures in the textile industry to improve the dimensional stability of cotton fabrics. Study of the physical and mechanical properties of compressive shrinkage finished fabrics could be useful for optimizing the treatment conditions. This research was carried out in a production line of a recognized garment company on cotton woven fabrics with two different woven patterns (twill and plain). The samples were first dyed with reactive and sulfur dyes in a jigger dyeing machine and finished with a silicone softener. The dried fabrics were then processed in a compressive shrinkage machine. Several physical and mechanical properties of the samples were evaluated including area shrinkage, crimp percentage, thickness, abrasion resistance, drapeability, mechanical and colorimetric properties. The results showed that the thickness of all treated samples increased due to compressive shrinkage. The fabrics were analyzed with a Martindale Abrasion Tester to determine the abrasion resistance. Interestingly, we noted an increase in the abrasion resistance. After the compressive shrinkage process, the strength of the plain woven fabrics decreased in the warp direction, but increased for twill woven cotton fabrics. On the contrary, the strength of all samples increased in the weft direction. Colorimetric evaluation of the samples showed that the effect of compressive shrinkage on the color of all samples was negligible.     

Effects of bending properties and drapability on the hand and appearance of wool-blended Fabrics: Comparison of real clothing with online and 3D virtual garments

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of bending properties and drapability on the hand and appearance of wool-blended fabrics for comparison of real clothing with online and 3D virtual garments. Objective evaluations were performed by measuring mechanical properties of fabrics, while subjective evaluations were performed by subjects evaluating sensory images of fabrics; real clothing evaluations were performed offline and online, and 3D virtual garments were evaluated. Bending properties and drape coefficients of fabrics were affected by wool blending ratio, and fabrics with high wool blending ratio showed low stiffness, warm-cool, weight, and high smoothness, drapability image. In the real clothing evaluation, stiffness image showed many differences with online evaluation with respect to wool blending ratio. Objective bending properties and drape coefficients showed no correlation with subjective sensory images offline. For the online results, objective mechanical properties had good correlations with all sensory images except smoothness. Stiffness and warm-cool online scores were higher than the offline ones and the offline drapability was higher than the online one for 100 % wool fabrics. Thus, clothing was generally evaluated online as more hard and moist than real clothing. For the virtual garment evaluation, sensory images had no difference according to wool blending ratio compared with real clothing. Many differences in subjective sensory images between real clothing and virtual garments were observed, except for smoothness and weight images. The results showed that it is difficult to exactly predict the hand and appearance of clothing according to fabric properties using 3D virtual garment system.     

Some remarks on the use of TE1 (Solanum chacoense) as a test plant for potato virus Y

Summary All strains investigated of PVY^c, PVYⁿ and PVY^o, even a strain of PVY^o, which did not produce local lesions on ‘A6’, induced pin-point necrotic lesions on detached and non-detached leaflets of TE₁ (Solanum chacoense) 3–4 days after inoculation. However, the local lesion production per cm² on ‘A6’ leaflets was higher than that on leaflets of TE₁ after inoculation with various dilutions of PVY. Moreover, the foliage production of TE₁ was much lower than that of ‘A6’. Therefore TE₁ is less suitable for routine detection of PVY than ‘A6’.     

The effect of weft density on the skewness of the twill weave woven fabric

This experimental study investigates the effect of weft density on the skewness of the twill weave woven fabrics. A total of 12 rolls of woven fabrics - 2/2, 3/3 and 4/4 - twill weave, with 20, 22, 24 and 26 weft densities were produced and their skewness due to relaxation was measured. The measured values show that as the weft density increases from 20 to 26, the skewness decreases from 2.4, 2.9, 3.6 to 1, 1.1 and 1.15 respectively. This decrease supports the idea that the increase in weft density drops the effect of the weave type on skewness. In fact, this experimental work reveals that increase in weft density lowers the free spaces between the floats, shortens the float length and raises the shearing rigidity of the fabric and as a result the ability of the warp floats’ in-plane lever to move and skew is lowered.     

Handle,fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn woven stretch fabrics

Hybrid yarn was produced by twisting silk with nylon covered lycra yarn. Silk of 20 D in warp and hybrid yarn in weft was woven to develop lustrous woven stretch fabrics for sari blouse. Silk and hybrid yarn fabrics were produced in three different weaves namely plain, crepe and sateen. An in-depth study was carried out to understand the effect of weave on thermal comfort; low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties. Nine blouses (3 samples× 3 figures) were constructed from three different woven stretch materials for fit assessment and objective pressure comfort test. The effect of fabric weave, low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties on fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabrics were analyzed. Sateen weave silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabric shows higher total hand value, stretch properties and better thermal comfort properties. Sateen and crepe weave stretch fabrics provided good fit. Sateen weave fabric exerted lower clothing pressure value in the range of 3-12 mmHg at all body locations in standing position and in different postures.     

Comparison of effects of objective properties on subjective sensory images of spring · summer women’s suit fabrics off-line and on-line

The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationships between the fabric textures preferred by consumers for women’s spring·summer suits and the affecting mechanical properties of the fabrics off-line and on-line. Objective evaluations were done by measuring the mechanical properties of the fabrics using Kawabata’s Evaluation System, while subjective estimations were done by having 109 subjects evaluate the sensory image of suit fabrics off-line and on-line. Test results were statistically analyzed by the SPSS Win 11.0 program. The factors of the subjective sensory images for women’s suit fabrics were classified into six categories, and the off-line and on-line sensory image results were generally the same, but showed some differences in order. A t-test was used to compare the off-line and on-line fabric results. The evaluation scores for weight, stiffness, and flexibility off-line were higher than those of on-line. Fabrics were classified in three clusters based on mechanical properties, and each cluster showed differences between the off-line and on-line sensory ratings. In the relationships between objective properties and subjective images, shear and bending properties showed many correlations with subjective off-line results, while surface and compression properties showed correlations to on-line images. By analyzing the effects of mechanical properties on subjective images, it was seen that 2HB property had many effects on offline ratings, while SMD property influenced upon on-line results mostly. Additionally, L of color affected on stiffness for offline ratings and weight for on-line evaluations, in particular.