Handle,fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn woven stretch fabrics

Hybrid yarn was produced by twisting silk with nylon covered lycra yarn. Silk of 20 D in warp and hybrid yarn in weft was woven to develop lustrous woven stretch fabrics for sari blouse. Silk and hybrid yarn fabrics were produced in three different weaves namely plain, crepe and sateen. An in-depth study was carried out to understand the effect of weave on thermal comfort; low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties. Nine blouses (3 samples× 3 figures) were constructed from three different woven stretch materials for fit assessment and objective pressure comfort test. The effect of fabric weave, low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties on fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabrics were analyzed. Sateen weave silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabric shows higher total hand value, stretch properties and better thermal comfort properties. Sateen and crepe weave stretch fabrics provided good fit. Sateen weave fabric exerted lower clothing pressure value in the range of 3-12 mmHg at all body locations in standing position and in different postures.     

Flame resistant modification of silk fabric with vinyl phosphate

The flame resistant finishing of silk fabric is still a challenge because most of the available treatment methods usually result in insufficient laundering durability. In this paper, a vinyl phosphorus-based monomer diethyl-2-(methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphate (DEMEP) was applied onto silk fabrics by graft copolymerization technique using potassium persulfate as an initiator. FT-IR spectra and amino analysis showed the evidence of the reaction between DEMEP and silk. The silk fabrics treated with DEMEP have excellent self-extinguishing property when the DEMEP add-on is over 50 % wt of silk fabrics. The LOI of treated samples is at least 28 % when the weight gain is 10 %. After being subjected to 30 hand wash cycles, DEMEP treated silk fabric can still pass the vertical flammability test. Thermal gravimetric (TGA) and differential thermal analysis (DTA) were applied to explore the thermal decomposition of silk fabrics treated with DEMEP. The initial decomposition temperature of silk fabric treated with DEMEP was shifted to a lower temperature. And at the end of decomposition at 700 °C, the char residue of silk fabric treated with DEMEP was higher than that of the control sample.     

Effect of sericin blending on molecular orientation of regenerated silk fiber

The use of regenerated silk fiber is limited due to its inferior mechanical properties in spite of high potential in a wide variety of applications. Many studies have been conducted in order to improve the mechanical properties of the regenerated silk materials, but no one has so far suggested an obvious solution. Meanwhile, some reports showed evidence that structural development of silk protein can be manipulated by physical interactions between silk fibroin (SF) and silk sericin (SS) during the regeneration process, especially in recrystallization process of SF. Such a hypothesis suggests a promising clue to enhance the mechanical properties of silk-based materials. Therefore, in this study, we tried to elucidate how SS can promote developing the molecular chain orientation of SF, resulting in an improvement of mechanical properties of regenerated silk fiber during spinning process. The tensile properties of the regenerated silk fiber were significantly improved compared to those of pure SF fiber when a proper amount of SS was blend with SF; both tenacity and breaking elongation increased by approximately 30 % and 70 % at three fold draw ratio, respectively. Quantitative analysis of X-ray diffraction and Herman’s orientation coefficient confirmed that such an improvement of tensile property was mainly caused by an increase of molecular orientation induced by sericin during the drawing process.     

Cross-cultural comparison of sound sensation and its prediction models for Korean traditional silk fabrics

In this study, cross-cultural comparison of sound sensation for Korean traditional silk fabrics between Korea and America was performed and prediction models for sound sensation by objective measurements including sound parameters such as level pressure of total sound (LPT), Zwicker’s psychoacoustic characteristics, and mechanical properties by Kawabata Evaluation System were established for each nation to explore the objective parameters explaining sound sensation of the Korean traditional silk. As results, Koreans felt the silk fabric sounds soft and smooth while Americans were revealed as perceiving them hard and rough. Both Koreans and Americans were pleasant with sounds of Gongdan and Newttong and especially Newttong was preferred more by Americans in terms of sound sensation. In prediction models, some of subjective sensation were found as being related mainly with mechanical properties of traditional silk fabrics such as surface and compressional characteristics.     

Reducing silk fibrillation through MMA graft method

Silk fibrillation, one major weakness of silk fibers, can lead to undesirable fabric appearance. In this research, an effective method for reducing the fibrillation of silk fibers through the graft copolymerization with methyl methacrylate (MMA) has been developed. The major copolymerization factors such as the initiator concentration, MMA monomer concentration, reaction time and temperature were investigated. An AATCC Crockmeter was used to rub the fabric to simulate the abrasion in production to generate the fibrillation. The microscope observation and the evaluation of fibrillation index (FI) were applied to assess the degree of fibrillation of silk fibers. The optimum graft copolymerization factors were obtained. Instrumental analyses, such as FTIR, TG and SEM, proved that the silk fabric had been successfully grafted with MMA monomers. The fibrillation of the grafted silk fibers was considerably reduced since the coated PMMA can protect the silk fiber. In addition, the physical properties such as the crease recovery, breaking strength, and the breaking length of the grafted silk fabrics were also improved.     

Characteristics of silver-plated silk fabric with plasma pre-treatment

Plasma gases of oxygen and argon were employed for pre-treating silk fabric before conducting electroless silver plating in this study. The effect of plasma pre-treatment with oxygen and argon gases on the electroless silver-plated silk fabric was investigated. Based on the observation of micro-structure using SEM, it was found that there was an increase in the amount of silver particles deposited on the silk fibre surface after plasma pre-treatment. The functional properties of plasmainduced electroless silver-plated silk fabrics were also evaluated. The increase in weight of the silver-plated silk after plasma pre-treatment was determined. When compared, the oxygen plasma treatment could improve the effect of silver plating on the silk fabric. Additionally, anti-static, anti-bacterial, UV protection and water-repellent properties of the silver-plated silk fabric were determined in this study.     

Effect of acid modification on dyeing properties of Rajshahi silk fabric with different dye classes

In this paper, Rajshahi silk fabric was modified by acetic acid, tannic acid and their mixture. After acid modification, the silk fabric was dyed with three dyes classes namely: Reactive Orange 14, Direct Yellow 29 and Mordant Blue 9. Results revealed that the fabric modified with acid mixture of 30 % acetic acid and 20 % tannic acid improved the colorfastness of the dyed fabric after 7 days exposure on simulated sunlight and washing with hot soap solution. Also, the acid modification could improve the dyed fabrics’ colorfastness properties to acids and alkalis. Optimum dyeing condition was observed at 1.5, 2.0, and 2.0 % dyes for Reactive Orange 14, Direct Yellow 29 and Mordant Blue 9 respectively. The optimum dyeing time was observed 50, 60, and 50 min; and temperature was 90, 100 and 80 °C respectively. Modification of silk fabrics with acids improves the dyeability and colorfastness of Rajshahi silk fabrics. However, the acid modification could reduce the loss in tenacity of silk fabric upon exposure to sunlight.     

Multifunctionalised silk using <Emphasis Type="Italic">Delonix regia</Emphasis> stem shell waste

The use of natural dyes and natural finishes on textiles has become a matter of significant importance because of the increased environmental awareness to avoid some hazardous synthetic dyes and synthetic chemicals. The Delonix regia stem shells were extracted in distilled water methanol and ethanol solvents. Phytochemical analysis was carried out for the presence of bioactive chemical constituents such as saponin, terpenoid, flavonoid, glycoside, phenol and tannin using the standard procedure. All the tests showed positive for the presence of components except saponin in methanol and ethanol extract. The qualitative antibacterial analysis was done by AATCC 147 method with excerpts from three different solvents both against S. aureus (gram-positive) and E. coli (gram-negative) bacteria. Delonix regia stem shell extract (DSE) in distil water was used for natural dyeing of mulberry silk fabric. Pre-mordanting and post-mordanting of silk fabric were carried out using alum and myrobalan mordants. Treated fabrics showed a substantial increase in colour depth (K/S) and adequate wash, light and rubbing fastness properties without and with mordanted and dyed silk fabrics. Quantitative antibacterial analysis by AATCC 100 method was done on dyed silk fabric which showed very good resistance both against bacteria S. aureus and E. coli bacteria. Dyed silk fabric also showed good to very good ultraviolet (UV) protection property. The physicochemical composition of the untreated and without mordant treated silk fabrics were analysed by attenuated total reflection (ATR) Fourier transforms infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, scanning electron microscope (SEM), energy dispersive spectrometry (EDS) and atomic absorption spectrophotometer (AAS). In addition to that wash, durability was also measured of dyed silk fabric for antibacterial and ultraviolet protection (UPF) properties according to AATCC 61 2A washing method.     

Preparation of the silk fabric with ultraviolet protection and yellowing resistance using TiO2/La(III) composite nanoparticles

In order to develop ultraviolet protection and yellowing resistance silk fabric, the silk fabric was treated with dispersive TiO₂/La(III) composite solution. The morphology, microstructure, ultraviolet protection and whiteness of the treated silk fabric were characterized by means of transmission electron microscopy, scanning electron microscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectra, X-ray diffraction and ultraviolet transmittance. Furthermore, the mechanism of the ultraviolet protection was investigated. The results show that the TiO₂/La(III) composite particles disperse uniformly. The TiO₂/La(III) particles can not only be treated onto the surface of the silk fabric but also can be treated into the interior of the silk fabric successfully. The result of Fourier transform infrared spectra and X-ray diffraction demonstrates that there are hydrogen bonds between the silk fabric and composite particles, and crystallinity of the treated silk fabric decrease when compares to the untreated silk fabric. The ultraviolet protection factor of the TiO₂/La (III) treated silk fabric is significantly higher than that of the untreated silk fabric. The main ultraviolet shielding effect of TiO₂ treated silk fabric is absorption. The La(III) treated SF has a bad ultraviolet shielding effect, but it has a certain reflection and absorption.     

Psychological and physiological responses to the rustling sounds of Korean traditional silk fabrics

The objectives of this study were to investigate physiological and psychological responses to the rustling sound of Korean traditional silk fabrics and to figure out objective measurements such as sound parameters and mechanical properties determining the human responses. Five different traditional silk fabrics were selected by cluster analysis and their sound characteristics were observed in terms of FFT spectra and some calculated sound parameters including level pressure of total sound (LPT), Zwicker’s psychoacoustic parameters — loudness(Z), sharpness(Z), roughness(Z), and fluctuation strength(Z), and sound color factors such as ΔL and Δf. As physiological signals, the ratio of low frequency to high frequency (LF/HF) from the power spectrum of heart rate variability, pulse volume (PV), heart rate (HR), and skin conductance level (SCL) evoked by the fabric sounds were measured from thirty participants. Also, seven aspects of psychological state including softness, loudness, sharpness, roughness, clearness, highness, and pleasantness were evaluated when each sound was presented. The traditional silk fabric sounds were likely to be felt as soft and pleasant rather than clear and high, which seemed to evoke less change of both LF/HF and SCL indicating a negative sensation than other fabrics previously reported. As fluctuation strength(Z) were higher and bending rigidity (B) values lower, the fabrics tended to be perceived as sounding softer, which resulted in increase of PV changes. The higher LPT was concerned with higher rating for subjective loudness so that HR was more increased. Also, compression linearity (LC) affected subjective pleasantness positively, which caused less changes of HR. Therefore, we concluded that such objective measurements as LPT, fluctuation strength(Z), bending rigidity (B), and compression linearity (LC) were significant factors affecting physiological and psychological responses to the sounds of Korean traditional silk fabrics.     

Prediction of mechanical properties of aging B.mori silk fabric based on grey neural network model

This paper presents a grey neural network model for the prediction of mechanical properties of aging B.mori silk fabric. In the experiment, we obtained outdoor natural aging breaking strength of B.mori silk fabric from 8 samples. Then, a grey neural network GNNM (1,1) model is proposed by the means of combining GM (1,1) model with BP artificial neural network to predict mechanical properties of B.mori silk fabric. At the same time, this paper analyzed and compared the GM (1,1) model and GNNM (1,1) model by using prediction error such as the relative percentage error (RPE) and the root mean square error (RMSE). The experimental results show that the RMSE of GNNM (1,1) model is 0.0284 well below 6.1786, which is the RMSE of GM (1,1) model. It indicates the GNNM (1,1) model were better than the normal grey GM (1,1) model, when taken the prediction error as evaluation parameter.     

Dyeing properties and antimicrobial activity of silk fabric with extract of unripe Citrus Unshiu fruits

This study was carried out to optimize dyeing conditions of unripe Citrus Unshiu extract on silk fabric and to evaluate antimicrobial activity of the dyed fabric for its potential use as a functional natural dye. Unripe fruits of Citrus Unshiu in Jeju Island, Korea, extracted in 80 % Ethanol solution to final solid dye powder were dyed on silk fabric under a variety of conditions such as dye bath concentrations, temperature, and dyeing duration together with mordanting. Dyeing fastness properties to washing, rubbing, perspiration, and light were tested and the antimicrobial activities of the dyed fabric against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae were investigated quantitatively. As results, the fabric showed the maximum dye uptake (K/S) under the conditions of 80 °C for temperature, 30 min for duration, and 600 % (o.w.f.) for dye concentration. Both pre- and post-mordanting seemed not to be effective on increasing K/S values of the dyed silk fabrics under the optimum dyeing conditions. Fastness ratings to washing, rubbing, and perspiration were all very good (4–5 grades) for both 300 and 600 % dyed silk fabrics. Excellent antimicrobial activities over 99 % reduction rate against two both bacteria were exhibited for all of dyed fabrics undergone more than 300 % of dye concentration. From these results, it was concluded that the dye concentration of 300 % of unripe Citrus Unshiu could be employed to produce antimicrobial silk fabric. Furthermore, to get more saturated shades on the fabric by the citrus, higher dye concentration such as 600 % was available as well.     

Actinomycin X2, an Antimicrobial Depsipeptide from Marine-Derived Streptomyces cyaneofuscatus Applied as a Good Natural Dye for Silk Fabric

Actinomycins as clinical medicine have been extensively studied, while few investigations were conducted to discover the feasibility of actinomycins as antimicrobial natural dye contributing to the medical value of the functional fabrics. This study was focused on the application of actinomycin X2 (Ac.X2), a peptide pigment cultured from marine-derived Streptomyces cyaneofuscatus, in the dyeing and finishing of silk fabric. The dyeing potential of Ac.X2 with silk vs. cotton fabrics was assessed. As a result, the silk fabric exhibited greater uptake and color fastness with Ac.X2. Through Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and X-ray diffraction (XRD) analyses, some changes of chemical property for the dyed fabric and Ac.X2 were studied. The silk fabric dyed with Ac.X2 exhibited good UV protection ability. The antibacterial properties of dyed and finished silk were also evaluated, which exhibited over 90% antibacterial activity even after 20 washing cycles. In addition, the brine shrimp assay was conducted to evaluate the general toxicity of the tested fabric, and the results indicated that the dyed silk fabrics had a good biological safety property.     

Metal ion adsorbability of electrospun wool keratose/silk fibroin blend nanofiber mats

In this study, electrospun wool keratose (WK)/silk fibroin (SF) blend nanofiber was prepared and evaluated as a heavy metal ion adsorbent which can be used in water purification field. The WK, which was a soluble fraction of oxidized wool keratin fiber, was blended with SF in formic acid. The electrospinnability was greatly improved with an increase of SF content. The structure and properties of WK/SF blend nanofibers were investigated by SEM, FTIR, DMTA and tensile test. Among various WK/SF blend ratios, 50/50 blend nanofiber showed an excellent mechanical property. It might be due to some physical interaction between SF and WK molecules although FTIR result did not show any evidence of molecular miscibility. As a result of metal ion adsorption test, WK/SF blend nanofiber mats exhibited high Cu²⁺ adsorption capacity compared with ordinary wool sliver at pH 8.5. It might be due to large specific surface area of nanofiber mat as well as numerous functional groups of WK. Consequently, the WK/SF blend nanofiber mats can be a promising candidate as metal ion adsorption filter.     

Antibacterial properties and color fastness of silk fabric dyed with turmeric extract

The use of non-toxic and eco-friendly natural dyes on textiles has received much attention due to the increased environmental awareness in order to avoid some hazardous synthetic dyes. In the present study, an eco-friendly approach was developed to impart color and antibacterial properties to silk fabrics dyed with turmeric extract as a non-toxic natural colorant. The natural colorant was extracted from Curcuma Longa rhizome. Copper sulfate, ferrous sulfate and potassium aluminium sulfate were applied in a pre-metallization process as mordanting agents. Antibacterial properties of treated fabrics were evaluated against common pathogenic bacteria, Staphylococcus aureus (Gram-positive) and Escherichia coli (Gram-negative). The effects of dye concentration and mordant types on the obtained color hues, antibacterial efficiency and color fastness of the fabrics were investigated. The results indicated that mordanted and dyed fabrics possessed desirable antibacterial properties. Complete antibacterial activity of the treated fabrics was obtained with 3 %owf (on weight of the fabric) copper sulfate. It was also shown that increasing the dye concentration could lead to a more efficient antibacterial activity on the mordanted dyed fabrics. An optimum level of the antibacterial activity was observed in the sample treated with 30 %owf of turmeric. Furthermore, the results of CIE L*, a*, b* values, FTIR, washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of the dyed fabrics were reported. The mordanted dyed silk fabrics exhibited desirable color fastness properties. These studies proved a direct relationship between the degree of antibacterial activity of the fabrics treated with turmeric and the metals ion concentration.     

Dyeing and fastness properties of a reactive disperse dye on PET, nylon, silk and N/P fabrics

Dyeing and color fastness properties of a reactive disperse dye containing an acetoxyethylsulphone group on PET, Nylon, silk and N/P fabrics were examined. The reactive disperse dye exhibited almost the same dyeing properties on PET fabric as a conventional disperse dye except the level of dye uptake. The most appropriate pH and dyeing temperature for the dyeing of Nylon fabric were 7 and 100°C respectively. The build-up on Nylon fabric was good and various color fastnesses were good to excellent due to the formation of the covalent bond. Application of the reactive disperse dye on silk fabric at pH 9 and 80°C yielded optimum color strength. The rate of dyeing on Nylon fabric was faster than that on PET fabric when both fabrics were dyed simultaneously in a dye bath, accordingly color strength of the dyed Nylon was higher. The reactive disperse dye can be applied for one-step and one-bath dyeing of N/P mixture fabric with good color fastness.     

Application of <Emphasis Type="Italic">Sterculia Foetida</Emphasis> Fruit Shell Waste Biomolecules on Silk for Aesthetic and Wellness Properties

There has been growing interest in the use of bioresource waste for natural dyeing and finishing. This paper discusses dye extraction from the novel source fruit shell waste of Sterculia foetida and its application on mulberry silk fabric to confer aesthetic coloration and wellness properties such as ultra-violet (UV) protection and antibacterial properties. Treated fabrics showed a substantial increase in color depth and adequate wash, light, and rubbing fastness properties for dyed silk fabrics with and without mordanting. Pre-and post-mordanting of silk fabrics were carried out using mordants such as alum, harda (myrobalan), and copper sulfate. UV-visible spectrophotometric analysis of fruit shell extract (FSE) at different pHs and FSE with three different mordants at neutral pH was used to understand the phenomena of dye-fiber interaction. The treated fabrics characterised by ATR-FTIR, SEM-EDS, and XRD analysis indicate the nature of dye fiber interaction justifying the multifunctional properties. The treated fabric also showed very good ultraviolet protection property and antibacterial properties both against S. aureus and E. coli bacteria even after ten washes. The results indicate that Sterculia foetida fruit shell extract offers an excellent potential as coloration, antibacterial, and ultraviolet protective agent for mulberry silk fabric.     

Cotton fabric mechanical properties affected by post-finishing processes

Following the work done previously [1]. In this paper, the effect of various post-finishing agents on the low stress mechanical and surface properties of dyed cotton fabrics, as well as their handle value have been studied. The mechanical properties of the treated cotton fabrics were measured by the famous KES-FB system. It has been found that cotton fabric mechanical properties and fabric handle can be modified by not only the external finishing agents but also the internal finishing agents which are used for correcting the inherent defect of the fabrics. The results in this report will inform the textile industry in engineering required fabric properties with appropriate finishing processes.     

Enhanced mechanical properties of silk fibroin-based composite plates for fractured bone healing

We successfully fabricated bacterial cellulose/silk fibroin (BC/SF) composite plates having similar strength to that of human cortical bone (12.8–17.7 GPa). The mechanical properties of the BC/SF composite plates were investigated at various BC nanofiber contents. The BC nanofibers acted as good reinforcements for the stress transfer produced by the interactions between the BC nanofibers and the SF matrix, as confirmed by the molecular deformation of the BC nanofibers. The BC/SF composite plates have a promising potential as a replacement material for existing metal bone plate.     

Effect of Silver Particle size on color and Antibacterial properties of silk and cotton Fabrics

In this study silver nanoparticles with different particle sizes and hence colors were synthesized on silk and cotton fabrics through reduction of silver nitrate. Particle sizes of the silver colloids were measured by dynamic light scattering (DLS). The structure and properties of the treated fabrics were characterized by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDS), X-ray diffraction (XRD), and UV-Vis reflectance spectroscopy. Various characteristics of the treated fabrics including antibacterial activities against a Gram positive (Staphylococcus aureus) and a Gram negative (Escherichia coli) bacteria, color effect, wash and light fastness, water absorption, fabric rigidity, and UV blocking properties were also assessed. The results indicated that the treated fabrics displayed different colors in the presence of silver nanoparticles with different particle sizes and exhibited good and durable fastness properties. Also, the size of the silver particles had a tangible effect on antibacterial activity of treated fabrics and its antibacterial performance was improved by decreasing the size of particles. Moreover, this process imparted significantly UV blocking activity to fabric samples.