Comparison of tensile properties of co-woven-knitted and multi-layered biaxial weft-knitted fabric reinforced composites

The co-woven-knitted (CWK) fabric and multi-layered biaxial weft-knitted (MBWK) fabric were produced using glass filaments as warp and weft inserted yarns and high tenacity polyester as stitched yarns. Vacuum Assisted Resin Transfer Molding process was used to produce the two composites. Tensile tests were carried out in the course, wale and slanting directions of the composites, respectively. Specific stress-strain curves and failure modes of the two composites were investigated and compared. Results reveal that tensile strengths and elastic moduli of the two composites in the course and wale directions are better than those in the bias direction. All the composite samples fracture in the brittle damage mode. Furthermore, the buckling due to different inserted ways of the warp and weft yarns has a few influences on the tensile properties of the two composites. This research may lay a foundation for the establishment of the process windows for the co-woven-knitted reinforced composites.     

Improvement in the fracture toughness (Mode I) of laminated glass fabric composites through air-jet texturing

Delamination is the most common failure mode in laminated composites due to the reduced strength in the through-the-thickness direction. Air-jet texturing was used to provide more surface contact between the fibres and the resin by producing bulk and loops in the yarn. The development and characterization of core-and-effect textured glass yarns and the effect of texturing on the mechanical properties of laminated composites were presented in the previous papers. This paper describes the effect of texturing on the inter-laminar fracture toughness (Mode I) of glass laminated composites. The composites of twill weave fabrics were developed from both the textured and non-textured yarn and fracture toughness is tested in warp and weft directions. Significant improvement was observed in the Mode I fracture toughness of the composites after texturing. The bulkier, loopy structure of the textured yarn provided more surface contact between the fibre and the resin and significantly improved the bonding strength.     

Evaluation of the structural properties of plain fabrics woven from various fibers using Peirce’s model

Peirce’s fabric model has been widely used to predict the structural behavior of various plain woven fabrics. The structure of plain woven fabric can be defined in terms of the warp yarn number, weft yarn number, warp fabric density, weft fabric density, warp crimp, and weft crimp. The warp and weft yarn diameters are calculated from the warp and weft yarn numbers, and the effective coefficient of the yarn diameter is defined by using this model. We have investigated structural properties, such as the effective coefficient of the yarn diameter, yarn crimp, and fabric thickness for two different fabrics in which the constituent yarns are assumed to be either incompressible or compressible. This model is also applied to various plain fabrics woven from cotton, rayon, wool, linen, nylon, acetate, polyester, and silk yarns.     

Crimp analysis of worsted fabrics in the terms of fabric extension behaviour

Inside a woven fabric structure, warp and weft yarns acquire crimp as a result of yarns interlacing according to the weave pattern. Since warp and weft yarns are oriented in two perpendicular directions, applying tensile load in one direction causes extension in the load side and fabric contraction in the opposite direction. This process was investigated in this study by using an image processing procedure and it was found that fabric’s extension is in coincidence with yarn’s de-crimping process in the same direction. After the de-crimping stage, yarns in the load direction will be extended and at the same time crimp in the other direction will be increased, until jamming phenomenon happens in the fabric structure. The crimp interchange between warp and weft yarns follows a three-order polynomial function with a turning point in which the yarns in the load direction have no crimp.     

Effects of loom characteristics on the physical properties of PET fabrics for emotional clothing

The fabric defects complained by garment manufacturers are stop marks, streaky phenomena on the warp direction, thickness variation and color differences between edges on the right and left sides of the fabrics, which are partly due to the tension variation of warp and weft directions. It is well known that these defects are related to the difference of fabric mechanical property according to the loom characteristics and fabric position such as center and both edges parts of the fabric, which affect garment formability and wearing performance of garment. This research is focusing about which factor is dominant for the difference of fabric mechanical properties which affects garment formability and wearing performance between loom characteristic factor and fabric position factor such as center and both edges of the fabric, which is affected by warp and weft tensions. For this purpose, two kinds of looms were selected, and warp and weft tensions during weaving were measured and the mechanical properties of the fabrics woven by two kinds of looms such as tensile, bending, shear, compression and surface properties were also measured according to the positions such as center and both edge parts of the fabric. These fabric mechanical properties were examined with warp and weft tensions according to the looms and were also analyzed according to the positions of the fabric woven by two kinds of looms. The warp tension on the vicinity of center parts of the looms was much higher than those on the vicinity of both edges of looms. It revealed that the warp tension difference makes differences of fabric mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shear and surface properties except compressional property. And the differences of these mechanical properties according to the fabric positions and looms seem to make homogeneity of the fabric hand and tailorability of garment deteriorating.     

Predicting tensile strength of yarns required for producing PET/Cotton blended woven fabrics of a pre-defined tensile strength

This study was aimed at developing statistical models for the prediction of tensile strength of warp and weft yarns required for attaining a pre-defined strength of PET/Cotton blended woven fabrics. The models were developed based on the empirical data obtained from carefully developed 234 fabric samples with different constructions using 15, 20, and 25 tex yarns in warp and weft directions. The prediction ability and accuracy of the developed models were assessed by correlation analyses of the predicted and actual warp and weft yarn strength values of another set of 36 fabric samples. The analyses showed a very strong ability and accuracy of the developed statistical prediction models.     

Mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for emotional garment to the rapier loom characteristics

This study examined the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics woven using various rapier weaving looms. For this purpose, the warp and weft yarn tensions during weaving were measured on the three types of rapier looms, and the fabric mechanical property changes due to the warp and weft tension differences were measured and analyzed according to the fabric position and particular rapier loom using the KES-FB system. The warp tension variation along the loom width direction in P-GTX loom showed the lowest value compared to FAST and THEMA looms. The warp tensions on the central part of the three types of looms were much higher than those on the left and right sides of the looms. The extensibility and bending rigidity of the fabric woven by P-GTX rapier loom showed lower values than those of FAST and THEMA looms, which appears to have originated from the low warp and weft weaving tensions of P-GTX rapier loom. On the other hand, the compressional property and shear modulus showed compromised results due to lateral deformation by compression and constraint deformation of the warp and weft by shear. The friction coefficient of the fabric surface woven by FAST loom showed the lowest value due to the flatter surface by the high warp tension. The mechanical properties of the fabric loaded by a high warp tension on the central part of the loom were also affected by the high weft yarn crimp due to the wider spacing between warp yarns by the higher warp tension during weaving, which makes the surface of the central part of the fabric flatter and smoother than the edge part of the fabric.     

Effect of weaving process on tensile characterization of single and multiple ends of air-entangled textured polyester yarns

The tensile properties of air-entangled textured polyester single and multiple yarn ends before and after weaving were analyzed. The effects of weaving process considering fabric unit cell interlacement and number of yarn ends were evaluated by regression model. For this purpose, plain, ribs and satin woven fabrics were produced. The yarns were raveled from fabrics, and the tensile tests were applied to these yarns. The developed regression model showed that the number of interlacement and crimp ratio on the warp and weft yarns influence their tensile strength. Tensile strength of raveled yarns decreased compared to that of the bobbin yarn due to the effect of weaving process. This property degradation on the ravel yarns considered process degradation. Generally, when the number of warp and weft yarn ends increases, the warp and weft yarn tensile strengths for each fabric type decrease, whereas the warp and weft yarn tensile elongations slightly increase. The results from regression model were compared with the measured values. This study confirmed that the method in the study can be a viable and reliable tool. The research finding could be useful those who work on preform fabrication.     

Enhanced visualization of simulated woven fabrics

The woven fabric graphics designed with available computer aided design (CAD) systems using different colored warp and weft yarns look quite different from the appearance of their actual fabrics. To enhance the visual effects of designed woven fabric graphics, this paper reports a modified CAD woven fabric system, which allows users to design a fabric using parameters including fabric weaves, yarn number, yarn material, fabric count, crimp shape of interwoven yarns, and illumination. This enhanced system can design both yarns and fabrics, and consider the transitional color effect around interweaving points of warp and weft yarns. Its simulation image quality of woven fabrics has been greatly improved, and several textile mills and universities are currently using this woven fabric design system.     

Dimensional and physical properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 50/50 bamboo/cotton blended yarns

In this study, the dimensional and some physical properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 50/50 bamboo/cotton blended yarns are investigated. In order to see the differences and similarities, the results are then compared with those for similar fabrics knitted from 50/50 conventional viscose/cotton and 50/50 modal/cotton blended yarns. Each fabric type was produced with three different stitch lengths. After all fabrics were dyed under identical dyeing conditions, they were subjected to dry and full relaxation treatments. For dimensional properties of fabrics, course, wale and stitch densities were measured. Then, by calculating statistically best-fit lines passing both through the experimental points and the origin, dimensional constants i.e. k values were predicted in terms of the fiber types. The result show that each fabric type knitted from bamboo/cotton, viscose/cotton and modal/cotton blended yarns behaves in a similar manner. However, in both dry and fully relaxed states, the modal/cotton knitted fabrics tend to have slightly higher k values than the bamboo/cotton and viscose/cotton knitted fabrics. For physical properties, fabric weight per unit area, thickness, bursting strength, air permeability and pilling were evaluated. The results show that the weight, thickness and air permeability values are independent of the fiber type. Plain knitted fabrics from modal/cotton blended yarns have the highest bursting strength values. Plain knitted fabrics from bamboo/cotton blended yarns tend to pill less.     

Flexural stiffness of core spun cotton/spandex weft knitted structures under relaxation and machine washing treatments

In this research work, behavior of flexural stiffness of core spun cotton spandex single jersey, 1x1 rib and interlock fabrics was studied under relaxation and machine washing treatments. Results are compared with similar fabrics made from 100 % cotton. Fabric weight density increased with the progression of treatments and it is proportionate to the fabric tightness factor (stitch length^?1). Even though both types of fabrics had same machine set stitch lengths, cotton/spandex fabrics have shown the higher fabric weight densities than that of 100 % cotton fabrics. Although 1x1 rib and single jersey fabrics knitted with the same machine set stitch lengths, rib fabrics have given higher fabric weight densities than single jersey fabrics. Among the three knitted structures, interlock fabrics with higher machine set stitch lengths gave the higher fabric weights. Fabric stiffness and flexural rigidity have given higher values under the progression of treatments and it was found that higher values of stiffness have given by cotton/spandex knitted fabrics compared to their cotton fabrics. Fabric stiffness and flexural rigidity in wale direction were higher than that in course direction, but it is only observed in single jersey fabrics. However, 1x1 rib and interlock fabrics have shown an opposite behavior. It was also observed a positive correlation between TF (i.e.: stitch length^?1) and bending length/flexural rigidity in both fabric types. Lower flexural rigidities reported with single jersey structures and highest values gave with interlock structures of cotton/spandex and cotton fabrics.     

Assessing the relationship among fabric constructional parameters, fractional reflectances and cover factors of polyester fabrics by experimental and mathematical methods

This paper focuses on the assessment of the relation among constructional properties, fractional reflectances and cover factors of fabrics woven from polyester yarns. A novel equation for the calculation of the relation between fractional reflectance and fabric cover factor was proposed and the usage of the equation was assessed by reflectance measurements. 48 polyester fabrics having different constructional parameters were used and the fabrics differed from each other by their cover factors. The warp yarn type and count, warp density and warp yarn twist were the same but weft yarn count, weft yarn fiber count and weft density were different for the fabrics in the experimental sub-groups. The reflectance measurements were conducted on the pretreated but undyed fabric samples as well as on the individual yarn systems of the same fabrics. Fabrics with the same cover factors exhibited different fractional reflectances. Reflectances were found to be dependent on the cover factor as well as on yarn fiber fineness, yarn count, yarn density and fabric weave. The changes in crimp of the yarns according to different construction parameters also governed the changes in fractional reflectances of fabric surfaces. The proposed equation was tested according to different fabric construction parameters and it was concluded that fiber fineness and weave pattern were among the most important parameters which govern the total light reflectances from the fabric surfaces, although they are not incorporated in the calculation of the fabric cover factors. The proposed equation was used to explain the effects of these components on the reflectance behavior of the fabric surfaces and on fabric cover.     

Investigating ballistic impact on fabric targets with gripping yarns

The purpose of the research is to investigate the fabric structure (with gripping yarns) in influencing ballistic performance aiming to improve the ballistic performance of the currently used body armour materials. Thirteen different fabrics having gripping yarn were designed along fabric warp and/or weft directions. Their ballistic performance in terms of energy absorption has been studied and comparisons made among the single layered fabrics and between the two double layered fabrics, as well as to the conventional used a plain woven fabric for both cases. It was found that fabrics with gripping yarns have improved fabric ballistic performance. The inter-jointed two-layer fabric performed better than the un-jointed two-layer fabric, and it showed a 16.6 % increase in the energy absorption. The implication of the research is that body armour can be made lighter without reducing ballistic impact performance by using gripping yarns.     

Porosity and capillarity of weft knitted spacer structures

A geometrical model of weft knitted spacer structures made with mono-filament yarn has been analysed to understand the spacer yarn path. Theoretical models have been created to predict the porosity and the radius of the capillaries of a knitted spacer structure depending on their geometrical parameters, such as course spacing, wale spacing, stitch length, fabric thickness, count of yarn and fibre density. Polyester knitted spacer fabrics were produced with different parameters; their porosity was determined by measuring the weight and compared with the theoretical porosity. The validity of the model was confirmed by experimental results. The porosity of knitted spacer structures made out of mono-filament yarn can be maintained above a certain level by adjusting the fabric parameters such as fabric thickness, course spacing and wale spacing.     

The effect of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness of polyester fabrics

The effects of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness values of textured polyester woven fabrics with different constructional parameters were investigated. The warp yarn properties (type, count and warp density) were kept constant while the effect of variation in weft yarn density and weave pattern were studied. Measurements were conducted on pre-treated white fabric samples and the results assessed in relation to their constructional properties. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness values of polyester fabrics affected by fabric balance and fabric cover and the effects were related to fabric thickness, yarn densities, yarn crimp, positioning of yarns in fabric structure. A change in weave pattern from sateen to plain increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased the surface roughness. Similarly, an increase in weft density increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased surface roughness. In order to produce fabrics with smooth surface properties yarn density should be increased, yarn float lengths decreased, cover of fabrics increased and fabric balance improved.     

Physical and comfort properties of the hoisery knit product containing intermingled nylon elastomeric yarn

There are several studies related with knitted fabric containing elastomeric yarn. These studies have been carried out only on fabrics containing naked elastomeric yarn, i.e., without intermingling. And most of them have focused on dimensional and extension-recovery properties of the fabric. Of course, intermingling yarn parameters such as number of knots and draw-ratio will affect the properties and performance of the fabrics. This paper presents a study about the effect of draw-ratio and number of knots, which are important parameters in intermingled nylon-elastomeric yarns, on the physical and comfort properties of hosiery knit products. To see the relationship and significance, bivariate correlation analysis and analysis of variance have been carried out. It has been seen that increase of draw ratio and number of knots lead to an increase in dimensional change, stitch density, fabric weight, and lead to a decrease in fabric spirality, abrasion, fabric wicking (wickability in course direction is less than that of wale direction). Fabric thickness increases with an increase in draw ratio and a decrease in number of knots. The number of knots and the draw-ratio do not affect the fabric drying rate. However, an increase in the draw ratio and the number of knots result in an increase in initial water content before beginning the drying process. But, an increase in initial water content is not so high as to affect the drying rate.     

Predicting bending rigidity of woven fabrics using artificial neural networks

This paper reports an investigation on the predictability of bending property of woven fabrics from their constructional parameters using artificial neural network (ANN) approach. Number of cotton grey fabrics made of plain and satin weave designs were desized, scoured, and relaxed. The fabrics were then conditioned and tested for bending properties. Thread density in fabric, yarn linear density, twist in yarn, and weave design were accounted as input parameters for the model whereas bending rigidity in warp and weft directions of fabric formed the outputs. Gradient descent with momentum and an adaptive learning rate back-propagation was employed as learning algorithm to train the network. A sensitivity analysis was carried out to study the robustness of the model.     

Development of moisture transition ability on porous complex structured woven fabric with convergence of pattern,porosity, and plasma technology

A porous complex structured woven fabric was manufactured to maximize the moisture transition ability of the prepared fabric by increasing the absorptive property of the fabric through surface modification using plasma, which is a dry modification method. Porous single and complex structured woven fabrics were produced by applying pattern, porosity, and plasma technology, including fabric patterning based on the sheath/core complex structure, the formation of porosity by removing the weft thread or warp thread, and hydrophilic surface treatment using plasma and the improvement in water absorption of different fabrics by the porous and plasma treatment was investigated. Therefore, two different types of fabrics were prepared. One is the porous single structured FAB-SINGLE fabric which was taken out in the direction of the Polyester (PET) warp thread of a general single structure to form a porous. Another is FAB-COMPLEX fabrics that the water-soluble polylactic acid (PLA) yarns with a 1.7 to 2.0 times longer absorption distance than that of PET yarns were inserted into the weft threads, and the PLA yarns were dissolved in a solvent to form the porous complex fabric. And then the physical properties and water absorption of the two types of fabric were compared after the plasma treatment. The results showed that when the FAB-SINGLE fabric, which has porosity induced by the removal of the warp threads in a certain gap, was plasma treated for 5 min, the contact angle was decreased to the extent that a measurement of the contact angle was impossible, whereas the fabric that had not undergone a plasma treatment had a contact angle of 123.6 o. The contact angle of the FABCOMPLEX with porosity caused by the dissolution of the PLA yarns was reduced from 76.8 o to 0 o after 3 minutes of a lowtemperature plasma treatment, indicating that the hydrophilic property was increased. In addition, the water absorption measurements showed that the absorption height was increased from 2.3 cm of the fabric sample that had not been treated with plasma to the highest absorption height of 8.3 cm, suggesting that the water absorption also increased with the improvements in moisture transition ability by the plasma treatment. The physical tensile strength of the fabrics was not changed by the plasma treatment, despite the changes on the fabric surface, suggesting that the combination of double complex structures and the plasma treatment helped improve the water absorption.     

Reflectance prediction of colored polyester fabrics by a novel formula

This paper focuses on the reflectance prediction of colored (unicolored) fabrics considering relationship between fractional reflectance values and cover factors of fabrics woven from polyester yarns. A novel equation for the calculation of relation between fractional reflectance and cover factor was proposed and usage of the equation was assessed by reflectance measurements. 48 dyed polyester fabrics having different constructional parameters were used and fabrics differed from each other by their cover factors. Warp yarn type and count, warp density and warp yarn twist were the same but weft yarn count, weft yarn fiber count and weft density were different for the fabrics in experimental sub-groups. The reflectance measurements were conducted on the dyed fabric samples as well as on the individual yarn systems (warp and weft) of the same fabrics. The proposed equation was tested according to different fabric constructional parameters and reasonable results with the experimental data were obtained. The possibilities of general use of derived mathematical relations between theoretical and measured reflectance values were researched. The relation obtained was used to explain the effects of different constructional parameters on reflectance behavior of fabric surfaces.