Evaluation of the structural properties of plain fabrics woven from various fibers using Peirce’s model

Peirce’s fabric model has been widely used to predict the structural behavior of various plain woven fabrics. The structure of plain woven fabric can be defined in terms of the warp yarn number, weft yarn number, warp fabric density, weft fabric density, warp crimp, and weft crimp. The warp and weft yarn diameters are calculated from the warp and weft yarn numbers, and the effective coefficient of the yarn diameter is defined by using this model. We have investigated structural properties, such as the effective coefficient of the yarn diameter, yarn crimp, and fabric thickness for two different fabrics in which the constituent yarns are assumed to be either incompressible or compressible. This model is also applied to various plain fabrics woven from cotton, rayon, wool, linen, nylon, acetate, polyester, and silk yarns.     

Predicting bending rigidity of woven fabrics using artificial neural networks

This paper reports an investigation on the predictability of bending property of woven fabrics from their constructional parameters using artificial neural network (ANN) approach. Number of cotton grey fabrics made of plain and satin weave designs were desized, scoured, and relaxed. The fabrics were then conditioned and tested for bending properties. Thread density in fabric, yarn linear density, twist in yarn, and weave design were accounted as input parameters for the model whereas bending rigidity in warp and weft directions of fabric formed the outputs. Gradient descent with momentum and an adaptive learning rate back-propagation was employed as learning algorithm to train the network. A sensitivity analysis was carried out to study the robustness of the model.     

Influence of the deformation mode on seam slippage in woven fabrics

In the present study the influence of the deformation mode, of the specimen elongation deformation, of the fabrics?? weave type, of fabrics?? direction and of the position of seam allowances in respect to the stitching line on the seam slippage in the raw plain, twill and combined-twill weave fabrics was investigated. Fabrics were woven with the warp yarn of 20×2 tex 70 % cotton and 30 % PES blended 2-ply spun yarn and the weft yarn of 18 tex 100 % PES folded multifilament yarn using jacquard weaving machine ??Lindaucer DORNER GmbH??. Seam slippage of the investigated woven fabrics was determined using the new simple and compact technical device suitable to test fabrics for seam slippage property within five different deformation modes: an uniaxial tension of seams with opened seam allowances on the surface of metal table; an uniaxial tension of seams with bent to one side allowances in respect to stitching line on the surface of the metal table; an unrestricted uniaxial tension of seams; a bagging of seams with bent to one side allowances in respect to the stitching line using the plastic hollow cylinder; a bagging of seams with opened seam allowances using the plastic hollow cylinder. The results of the research had proved that seam slippage of the investigated woven fabrics was dependent on the deformation mode, on the elongation of sewn specimens, on the location of allowances in respect to the stitching line, on the fabric weave type as well as on the woven fabric direction.     

Electromagnetic shielding characteristics of woven fabrics made of hybrid yarns containing metal wire

In this study, electromagnetic shielding characteristics of woven fabrics made of hybrid yarns are investigated. For this purpose, initially the hybrid yarns containing stainless steel wire are produced with hollow spindle covering technique, and then eight different fabric samples are produced using these hybrid yarns. Electromagnetic shielding values of fabric samples are determined by a test set up based on enclosure measurement technique. Measurements are made in the frequency range of 30 MHz-9.93 GHz. Test results show that woven fabric samples investigated in this study have 25–65 dB electromagnetic shielding effectiveness for incident frequency. It was also shown that the direction, density and settlement type of conductive hybrid yarn in fabric structure are important parameters affecting electromagnetic shielding characteristics of woven fabrics.     

Empirical modelling of tensile strength of woven fabrics

Aesthetic properties of fabrics have been considered as the most important fabric attribute for years. However, recently there has been a paradigm shift in the domain of textile material applications and consequently more emphasis is now being given on the mechanical and functional properties of fabrics rather than its aesthetic appeal. Moreover, in certain woven fabrics used for technical applications, strength is a decisive quality parameter. In this work, tensile strength of plain woven fabrics has been predicted by using two empirical modelling methods namely artificial neural network (ANN) and linear regression. Warp yarn strength, warp yarn elongation, ends per inch (EPI), picks per inch (PPI) and weft count (Ne) were used as input parameters. Both the models were able to predict the fabric strength with reasonably good precision although ANN model demonstrated higher prediction accuracy and generalization ability than the regression model. The warp yarn strength and EPI were found to be the two most significant factors influencing fabric strength in warp direction.     

Compression properties of weft knitted fabrics consisting of shrinkable and non-shrinkable acrylic fibers

High-bulk worsted yarns with different shrinkable and non-shrinkable acrylic fibers blend ratios are produced and then single jersey weft knitted fabrics with three different structures and loop lengths are constructed. The physical properties of produced yarns and compression properties of produced fabrics at eight pressure values (50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, 1500 and 2000 g/cm²) were measured using a conventional fabric thickness tester. Then, weft-knitted fabric compression behavior was analyzed using a two parameters model. It is found that at 40% shrinkable fibre blending ratio the maximum yarn bulk, shrinkage, abrasion resistance and minimum yarn strength are obtained. It is also shown that high-bulk acrylic yarn has the highest elongation at 20% shrinkable fibre blend ratio. The statistical regression analysis revealed that the compression behavior of acrylic weft-knitted fabrics is highly closed to two parameter model proposed for woven fabrics. It is also shown that for weft-knitted structure, there is an incompressible layer (V′) which resists against high compression load. Acrylic weft-knitted fabrics with knit-tuck structure exhibit higher compression rigidity and lower softness than the plain and knitmiss structures. In addition, at 20% shrinkable fibre blend ratio, the high-bulk acrylic weft-knitted fabrics are highly compressible.     

The effect of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness of polyester fabrics

The effects of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness values of textured polyester woven fabrics with different constructional parameters were investigated. The warp yarn properties (type, count and warp density) were kept constant while the effect of variation in weft yarn density and weave pattern were studied. Measurements were conducted on pre-treated white fabric samples and the results assessed in relation to their constructional properties. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness values of polyester fabrics affected by fabric balance and fabric cover and the effects were related to fabric thickness, yarn densities, yarn crimp, positioning of yarns in fabric structure. A change in weave pattern from sateen to plain increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased the surface roughness. Similarly, an increase in weft density increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased surface roughness. In order to produce fabrics with smooth surface properties yarn density should be increased, yarn float lengths decreased, cover of fabrics increased and fabric balance improved.     

Pull-out properties of polyester woven fabrics: Effects of softening agent and interlacement on single and multiple yarn pull-out forces and analysis by statistical model

The aim of this study was to understand the effects of softening treatment on pull-out properties of plain, ribs and satin fabrics. Polyester woven fabrics were used to conduct the pull-out tests. Data generated from these tests included pullout force, crimp extension and fabric displacement. A developed yarn pull-out fixture was used to perform single and multiple pull-out tests on treated and untreated polyester fabrics. Yarn pull-out forces depend on fabric treatments, fabric density, fabric weave, and the number of pulled ends in the fabric. The results of regression model showed that multiple and single yarn pull-out forces of treated fabrics were lower than those of untreated fabrics. The multiple yarn pull-out force was higher than that of the single yarn pull-out force, and that dense fabric had a high pull-out force. Treated and untreated plain fabrics had high single and multiple pull-out forces compared to those of treated and untreated ribs and satin fabrics. Yarn crimp extension depends on directional crimp ratios in the fabric and the number of pulled yarn ends. High directional crimp ratio fabric showed high directional yarn crimp extension. Fabric displacement depends on the number of pulled yarn ends and also fabric treatments. Fabric displacement in multiple pull-out tests showed high fabric displacement compared to that of single pull-out tests. On the other hand, the regression model could be used in this study as a viable and reliable tool.     

Handle,fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn woven stretch fabrics

Hybrid yarn was produced by twisting silk with nylon covered lycra yarn. Silk of 20 D in warp and hybrid yarn in weft was woven to develop lustrous woven stretch fabrics for sari blouse. Silk and hybrid yarn fabrics were produced in three different weaves namely plain, crepe and sateen. An in-depth study was carried out to understand the effect of weave on thermal comfort; low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties. Nine blouses (3 samples× 3 figures) were constructed from three different woven stretch materials for fit assessment and objective pressure comfort test. The effect of fabric weave, low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties on fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabrics were analyzed. Sateen weave silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabric shows higher total hand value, stretch properties and better thermal comfort properties. Sateen and crepe weave stretch fabrics provided good fit. Sateen weave fabric exerted lower clothing pressure value in the range of 3-12 mmHg at all body locations in standing position and in different postures.     

Analysis and off-axis tensile characterization of air-entangled textured polyester woven fabrics depending on unit cell interlacing frequency

The aim of this study is to analyze and determine the off-axis tensile properties of air-entangled textured polyester fabrics based on unit cell interlacing frequency. For this purpose, continuous filament polyester air-entangled textured yarn was used to produce plain, ribs and satin woven fabrics. The fabrics were cut from the warp direction (0°) to weft direction (90°) at every 15° increment, and tensile tests were applied to those of the off-axis samples. The strength and elongation results were introduced to the statistical model developed, and regression analyses were carried out. Hence, the effects of off-axis loading and interlacement on the directional tensile properties of the fabric were investigated. The regression model showed that off-axis loading influences fabric tensile strength. On the other hand, interlacement frequency is the most important factor for fabric tensile elongation. The results from the regression model were compared with the measured values. This study confirmed that the method used in this study as can be a viable and reliable tool. Future research will concentrate on multiaxially directional fabric and the probability that it will result in homogeneous in-plane fabric properties.     

Characterizations of stick-slip stage of yarn pull-out in dry and softening treated polyester plain woven fabric

The aim of this study was to understand the stick-slip properties of polyester plain woven fabric. For this reason, pull-out test was conducted on dry and softening treated polyester woven fabrics. It was found that stick-slip force and accumulative retraction force depend on the number of pulled ends in the fabric, fabric sample dimensions and softening treatments. Stick-slip forces of polyester fabric in the multiple yarn pull-out test were higher than those of the single yarn pull-out test. Stick-slip force in single and multiple yarn pull-out tests in the dry polyester plain fabric were generally higher than those of the softening treated polyester plain fabric. On the other hand, the amount of stick-slip force was related to the number of interlacement points in the fabric whereas the amount of accumulative retraction force was related to fabric structural response.     

Modelling tearing behavior of durable press finished woven fabric

Tearing strength is one of the most important and critical properties related to durable press finished cotton woven fabric. In the past, modelling of tearing strength of cotton woven fabrics was based on untreated cotton woven fabric but not in durable pressed finished fabric. In this paper, a mathematical model was established to demonstrate the tearing strength mechanism of durable press finished cotton woven fabrics by dimensional analysis based on yarn diameter, cover factor, Young’s modulus and fabric elongation. The proposed model agreed well with experimental results and the proposed model can be used for optimizing durable press finishing process of cotton woven fabric.     

Properties of stick-slip stage of yarn pull-out in para-aramid woven fabric

The aim of this study was to understand stick-slip properties of para-aramid woven fabrics. For this reason, pullout test was conducted on para-aramid Kevlar®29 and Kevlar®129 woven fabrics. The stick-slip and accumulative retraction force regions were defined based on the force-displacement curve. It was found that the stick-slip force and accumulative retraction force depended on fabric density and the number of pulled ends in the fabric. Stick-slip force in the multiple yarn pull-out test was higher than those of the single yarn pull-out test. Stick-slip force in single and multiple yarn pull-out tests in the dense K29 fabric were higher than those of the loose K129 fabric. In addition, long fabric samples showed high stick-slip force compared to that of the short fabric samples. On the other hand, the amount of stick-slip force was related to the number of interlacement points in the fabric whereas the amount of accumulative retraction force was related to fabric structural response.     

New production method for a plain weave figured fabric

A new production method for figured fabric has been developed. The figured fabric generated in this study is a plain weave piled fabric and it shows the same figure on both sides unlike those fabrics woven on dobby or jacquard looms. It is woven by a specialty yarn called the chenille yarn which is obtained by separating each warp of a base fabric woven in leno structure. The base fabric is woven by inserting different colored weft each time in a certain sequence arranged according to the target figure image. A CAD software and a computerized controller have been developed to control all the motions of a conventional rapier loom and to handle the numerous weft insertion schedule efficiently.     

Comparative study of cellulase treatment on low stress mechanical properties of cotton denim fabric made by torque-free ring spun yarn

Cellulase is useful for bio-polishing cotton fabrics which enhances their aesthetic performance instead of stonewashing process. Torque-free ring spun process is a widely used technique to produce newly low-twist and balanced torque yarns with soft hand. In this paper, denim fabrics woven with torque-free ring spun yarn and conventional ring spun yarn respectively were treated with cellulase under the same condition and their fabric handle, expressed as low stress mechanical properties, such as tensile strength, bending, shearing, compression and surface performance were investigated by Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F). After cellulase treatment, both denim fabrics revealed better flexibility, elasticity recovery, raised shearing stiffness, fluffier and improved smoothness. While torque-free ring spun yarn made denim fabric showed a better fabric handle than conventional ring spun yarn made denim fabric.     

Selection of yarn for the predefined tensile strength of cotton woven fabrics

In order to meet the required strength of a fabric, selection of yarn is difficult because tensile strength of woven fabric depends upon a number of factors. Still, the manufacturers have to use hit and trial method in order to select the yarn for the required tensile strength of fabric. This study was carried out to develop regression equations for the prediction of yarn tensile strength suitable for the predefined strength of cotton woven fabrics. These equations were developed by using empirical data obtained from two hundred and thirty four fabric samples prepared under a systematic plan with different constructions. Prediction proficiency and precision of these regression equations were evaluated by correlation analysis of the predicted and actual warp and weft yarn strength values of another set of thirty six fabric samples. The results show a very strong prediction precision of the equations.     

Effects of sample dimensions on pull-out properties of woven fabric structures

The aim of this study was to understand the effects of fabric sample dimensions on pull-out properties of fabric weaves. Polyester woven fabrics were used to conduct the pull-out tests. A yarn pull-out fixture was developed and data generated from this research. Yarn pull-out forces depend on sample dimensions, fabric density, fabric weave, and number of pulled ends in the fabric. Results showed that multiple and single yarn pull-out forces of long samples were higher than those of short samples, and the multiple yarn pull-out force was higher than that of the single yarn pull-out force, and dense fabric has high pull-out force. Plain fabric weave showed high single and multiple pull-out forces compared to ribs and satin fabric weaves. The regression model could be used in this study as a viable and reliable tool. This research could be valuable for development of multifunctional fabrics in technical textile applications.     

Reflectance prediction of colored polyester fabrics by a novel formula

This paper focuses on the reflectance prediction of colored (unicolored) fabrics considering relationship between fractional reflectance values and cover factors of fabrics woven from polyester yarns. A novel equation for the calculation of relation between fractional reflectance and cover factor was proposed and usage of the equation was assessed by reflectance measurements. 48 dyed polyester fabrics having different constructional parameters were used and fabrics differed from each other by their cover factors. Warp yarn type and count, warp density and warp yarn twist were the same but weft yarn count, weft yarn fiber count and weft density were different for the fabrics in experimental sub-groups. The reflectance measurements were conducted on the dyed fabric samples as well as on the individual yarn systems (warp and weft) of the same fabrics. The proposed equation was tested according to different fabric constructional parameters and reasonable results with the experimental data were obtained. The possibilities of general use of derived mathematical relations between theoretical and measured reflectance values were researched. The relation obtained was used to explain the effects of different constructional parameters on reflectance behavior of fabric surfaces.     

Assessing the relationship among fabric constructional parameters, fractional reflectances and cover factors of polyester fabrics by experimental and mathematical methods

This paper focuses on the assessment of the relation among constructional properties, fractional reflectances and cover factors of fabrics woven from polyester yarns. A novel equation for the calculation of the relation between fractional reflectance and fabric cover factor was proposed and the usage of the equation was assessed by reflectance measurements. 48 polyester fabrics having different constructional parameters were used and the fabrics differed from each other by their cover factors. The warp yarn type and count, warp density and warp yarn twist were the same but weft yarn count, weft yarn fiber count and weft density were different for the fabrics in the experimental sub-groups. The reflectance measurements were conducted on the pretreated but undyed fabric samples as well as on the individual yarn systems of the same fabrics. Fabrics with the same cover factors exhibited different fractional reflectances. Reflectances were found to be dependent on the cover factor as well as on yarn fiber fineness, yarn count, yarn density and fabric weave. The changes in crimp of the yarns according to different construction parameters also governed the changes in fractional reflectances of fabric surfaces. The proposed equation was tested according to different fabric construction parameters and it was concluded that fiber fineness and weave pattern were among the most important parameters which govern the total light reflectances from the fabric surfaces, although they are not incorporated in the calculation of the fabric cover factors. The proposed equation was used to explain the effects of these components on the reflectance behavior of the fabric surfaces and on fabric cover.