An investigation of continuous finishing and dyeing on the mechanical properties and handle of cotton fabrics

In this paper, the effect of continuous finishing-desizing, scouring, bleaching and dyeing of woven cotton fabrics on the low stress mechanical and surface properties has been studied. The cotton fabric properties were measured by the famous KES-FB system. The handle of the finished fabrics were calculated by the handle evaluation programme. The results showed that the mechanical properties changed significantly by the desizing and gradually by the scouring, bleaching and dyeing processes.     

Comparative study of cellulase treatment on low stress mechanical properties of cotton denim fabric made by torque-free ring spun yarn

Cellulase is useful for bio-polishing cotton fabrics which enhances their aesthetic performance instead of stonewashing process. Torque-free ring spun process is a widely used technique to produce newly low-twist and balanced torque yarns with soft hand. In this paper, denim fabrics woven with torque-free ring spun yarn and conventional ring spun yarn respectively were treated with cellulase under the same condition and their fabric handle, expressed as low stress mechanical properties, such as tensile strength, bending, shearing, compression and surface performance were investigated by Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F). After cellulase treatment, both denim fabrics revealed better flexibility, elasticity recovery, raised shearing stiffness, fluffier and improved smoothness. While torque-free ring spun yarn made denim fabric showed a better fabric handle than conventional ring spun yarn made denim fabric.     

Modelling tearing behavior of durable press finished woven fabric

Tearing strength is one of the most important and critical properties related to durable press finished cotton woven fabric. In the past, modelling of tearing strength of cotton woven fabrics was based on untreated cotton woven fabric but not in durable pressed finished fabric. In this paper, a mathematical model was established to demonstrate the tearing strength mechanism of durable press finished cotton woven fabrics by dimensional analysis based on yarn diameter, cover factor, Young’s modulus and fabric elongation. The proposed model agreed well with experimental results and the proposed model can be used for optimizing durable press finishing process of cotton woven fabric.     

Changes in a knitted fabric’s surface properties due to enzyme treatments

Enzyme treatment technologies in textile processing have become commonly-applied techniques for the modification of fabric-handle appearance, and other surface and mechanical characteristics of fabrics. Most studies have focused on understanding the impact of enzyme treatments on the fabric preparation, dyeing, and finishing processes of woven fabrics, whilst only limited research has been reported regarding any enzymatic effects on the surface and handproperties of knitted fabrics. The aim of this study was to analyze the effects of two different enzymes Trichoderma reesei whole cellulase, and enriched (EGIII) endoglucanase cellulase, at three different enzyme dosages on 100 % cotton interlock knitted fabric. This was in order to evaluate certain surface properties such as pilling, friction. and geometrical roughness. Furthermore, the compression and tactile properties of knitted fabric were also analyzed. The results show that treatment conditions with enzyme Trichoderma reesei whole cellulase had the more pronounced effect on the surface properties compared to the enriched EGIII enzymes. In general, it can be concluded that both types of enzymes improved the surface properties and hand when compared with the silicone softener-treated reference sample of interlock knitted fabric, as is statistically confirmed by one-way analysis of variance.     

Simultaneous application of silver nanoparticles with different crease resistant finishes

Textiles, especially those made of natural fibers, are suitable medium for the growth of microorganisms which causes disease transmission, stink, colorful spots, and reduction in fabric strength. This research focuses on the antimicrobial finishing of cotton fabrics using colloidal solution of silver nanoparticles. Due to the difficulties of adding a new step to the finishing process of cotton textiles, efforts have been made to combine the antimicrobial treatment with the conventional finishing processes. For this purpose two chemical finishes of Fixapret ECO as a crosslinking agent and Cellofix ME as a resin former have been used in anti crease finishing of cotton fabric and their effects were evaluated. The properties of the samples have been investigated by measuring the resistant of samples against bacteria, crease recovery angle, abrasion, and washing fastness. The results showed that treated samples by pad-dry method have the best antibacterial effect with a direct relation between the increase in drying temperature and antibacterial properties. However, the washing and abrasion fastness were not at the acceptable level. Co-application of the colloidal solution of silver nanoparticles with the crease resistant materials improved both fastness properties while at the same time limited the direct contact between the nanoparticles and the bacteria so the antibacterial efficiency was reduced. Subsequently, it was concluded that the antibacterial finishing method should be selected according to the end uses. In addition, antibacterial treatment could be one of the multi-purpose finishes for cotton fabric.     

A mathematical model to compare the handle of PLA and PET knitted fabrics after different finishing steps

We have studied a mathematical model to compare the handle of polylactic acid (PLA) and polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fabrics throughout finishing steps. Mechanical and surface properties at low stress of PLA and PET fabrics and the effects of different finishing treatments on these properties are investigated. The KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics) is used for the measurements of low stress tensile, shear, bending, compression and surface properties. There is no standard method to determine the total handle value for summer knitted fabrics. Therefore a mathematical method i.e. the Weighted Euclidean Distance method was used to indirect determination of total handle value from the KES-system parameters. The results reveal that the mechanical and surface properties as well as handle of PLA and PET fabrics change significantly after different finishing stages. The difference between handle of PLA and PET fabrics has been significantly reduced after dyeing, drying, heat setting and softening processes.     

Properties of anti-UV-finished cotton fabrics cured by blue light irradiation

To decrease the pollution discharge and energy consumption resulting from textile finishing using the conventional pad-dry-cure process, a blue light-curable digital finishing for textile was innovatively proposed. Based on the mechanism of blue light curing technique, a combination of the blue light curing process and anti-UV finishing was established in this study. A blue light-curable anti-UV finishing solution containing oligomers, monomers, photoinitiators, and anti-UV agents was padded onto the surface of the cotton fabrics, and then cured to form a tough film under blue light irradiation. The ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) value of the finished cotton fabrics was 50, the top level of international standards, demonstrating excellent UV resistance. The finished cotton fabrics also showed good rubbing and washing durability, and acceptable handle. The integration of an anti-UV finishing with the blue light curing technique presents some unique advantages in terms of environmental protection and application potential.     

Synthesis and Application of Polyurethane-Modified Silicone as Finishing Agent for Cotton Fabric

The polyurethane modified organic silicone (PU-SA) was successfully synthesized via step-by-step polymerization with isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) and polypropylene glycol (PPG) used as monomers, dibutyltindilaurate (DBTDL) as the catalyst, trimethylolpropane (TMP) and N-methyldiethanolamine (MDEA) as the chain extender, and amino-terminated siloxane (SA) as the blocking agent. The chemical structure of PU-SA was characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR). X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) and scanning electron microscope (SEM) showed that PUSA had been successfully finished on the surface. Additionally, the thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) demonstrated that the PU-SA treated fabrics showed low decomposition temperature and slightly high char residue. As a finishing agent, the effect of PU-SA on the handle of cotton fabrics was also studied by using a Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F). The experimental results found that PU-SA had a significant improvement on the bending properties, surface properties, and compressional properties. Moreover, the mechanical and anti-wrinkle properties of the cotton fabrics were also enhanced.     

Improving Application Performance of <Emphasis Type="Italic">in situ</Emphasis> Polymerization and Crosslinking System of Maleic Acid/Itaconic Acid for Cotton Fabric

Maleic acid (MA) and itaconic acid (IA) used as crosslinking agents for cotton fabrics are more cost-effective than the most efficient nonformaldehyde crosslinker 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA), but poor stability of finishing bath and fabric yellowing are the main disadvantage of MA/IA in situ polymerization and crosslinking system. In this research, the application performance improvement of MA/IA crosslinking system for cotton fabrics was studied. Replacement of the widely used sodium hypophosphite (SHP) with potassium hypophosphite (PHP) as catalyst allowed for obtaining a stable finishing bath under ambient temperature and led to improved final durable press (DP) performance of the treated fabrics. The influences of PHP concentration, curing temperature, and curing time on the performance of finished fabrics were investigated. Cotton fabrics treated by MA/IA/PHP crosslinking system exhibited comparable DP performance and laundering durability to that finished with BTCA. To address the fabric yellowing problem, the residual MA and IA attached on the treated fabrics by single-ended ester linkage was determined by HPLC. The data indicated that the degree of fabric yellowing was linearly related to the unpolymerized carboxylic acid MA and IA concentration on the treated fabrics. Several approaches were explored to improve the whiteness of MA/IA/PHP crosslinked fabrics. It was found that steam drying with 30-50 % humidity could effectively improve fabric whiteness. The findings of this study have significant implications for better application of unsaturated polycarboxylic acids in crosslinking of cellulose.     

Objective measurement of hand properties of plasma pre-treated cotton fabrics subjected to flame-retardant finishing catalyzed by zinc oxide

In the present paper, flame resistance property is imparted to cotton fabrics by N-methylol dimethylphos-phonopropionamide (Pyrovatex CP New, FR), melamine resin (Knittex CHN, CL), phosphoric acid catalyst (PA), and ZnO/nano-ZnO co-catalyst. The study shows that effectiveness of the FR-CL-PA reaction to form a crosslinked structure is enhanced by the co-catalytic reaction, resulting in enhancement of fabric’s compressional recovering ability. However, the low pH reaction weakened the fabrics, resulting in poor tensile strength and toughness, stiffer hand feel, brittle and tendered polymer layers, a less spongy fabric structure, and a roughened fabric surface with fuzzy fibrils. In addition, atmospheric pressure plasma jet (APPJ) was used to enhance materials properties by sputtering or etching effect. The roughening effect of plasma treatment enhances tensile properties of treated specimens. Nevertheless, the positive effect is negligible after post-treatment with flame-retardant agents. Moreover, the increased inter-yarn friction enhances the subjective stiffness of fabric and the rigid effect is even worse for plasma pre-treated cotton specimens subjected to flame-retardant treatment. However, plasma pre-treated specimens have a compressible structure after post-treatment with flame-retardant agents. Moreover, neutralization of flame-retardant-treated specimens helps minimize side effects of acidic finishing, irrespective of tensile and compression properties. The process also minimizes shear and bending rigid effect by removing unattached metal oxides from the fabrics.     

黄麻／棉织物服用性能探讨

本文通过试验测定了黄麻／棉织物的服用性能，并与苎麻／棉，涤／棉，纯棉等织物的服用性能进行比较，结论表明黄麻／棉织物作为服用织物是可行的。     

Superhydrophobic and Antibacterial Properties of Cotton Fabrics Treated with PVDF and nano-ZnO through Phase Inversion Process

Cotton fabrics exhibiting superhydrophobic and antibacterial properties were prepared through a non-solvent induced phase separation method using hydrophobic poly(vinylidene fluoride) (PVDF) and its hybrids with photocatalytic zinc oxide nanoparticles (nano-ZnO) as surface modifying agents for cotton fabric. The effects of coagulating medium and temperature on microstructural morphology and surface hydrophobictity of the cotton fabrics were investigated by FE-SEM observation and contact angle measurement. Superhydrophobic cotton fabrics exhibiting water contact angle higher than 150 ° could be obtained by coating the fabrics with solutions of PVDF and nano-ZnO followed by coagulation in ethanol as non-solvent. This phenomenon is considered to be originated from both chemically hydrophobic PVDF layer and physical micro- and nano-bumps formed on the surface of cotton fabric, which are essential requirements for Lotus effect. Moreover, antibacterial properties could be synergistically obtained by utilizing photocatalytic effect of nano-ZnO.     

Effect of softeners and crosslinking conditions on the performance of easy-care cotton fabrics with different weave constructions

This study reports an experimental investigation on the effect of softeners, crosslinking conditions, and laundering on the comfort related and low stress mechanical properties of cotton fabrics with different weave constructions. Softeners with different chemical natures, in conjunction with the crosslinking agent and catalyst, were padded onto the cotton fabrics of three types of weave constructions, viz. plain, twill, and a newly developed plant-structured weave design. Two crosslinking conditions, namely dry and moist curing conditions, were compared. Scanning electron microscope (SEM) and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscope were used to visualize and quantify the morphological and chemical changes on fabrics. The experimental results showed that the dry-crosslinking condition is preferable to achieve better comfort and easy-care properties, while moist-crosslinking condition is a better choice when strength-related properties are the main requirement. The study further showed that silicone elastomer softener can be applied to improve fabric strength whereas micro-emulsion of functional amino-polysiloxane plus emulsion containing polyalkylene is beneficial for comfort characteristic. The plant-structured cotton fabric finished in the dry-crosslinking condition with softener in nano-emulsion form can result in superb water absorption, excellent air permeability, good handle, acceptable strength, and improved easycare property.     

Effect of finishing treatments on heat resistance of one- and two-layered fabrics

A series of cotton knitted fabrics was produced and finished according to three different recipes in order to compare the changes of their heat resistances. The heat resistance was measured using the sweating guarded hotplate. Measurements were carried out on one layer of produced knitted fabrics, as well as on two layers of fabrics. The results indicated significant influence of all carried finishing treatments to the decrease of heat resistance of knitted fabrics. It was shown that the high influence of finishing treatment to the total heat transfer trough fabric remains if the fabric is worn with additional knitted fabric layer. The presented results and performed statistical analysis indicated significant effect of finishing treatments to the changes of fabric parameters and furthermore to the changes of heat resistance what directly affects the total thermophysiological comfort of knitwear.     

An Eco-Friendly Multifunctional Nano-Finishing of Cellulose/Wool Blends

A new approach for an eco-friendly multi-functionalization of cotton/wool (C/W) and viscose/wool (V/W) blended fabrics was investigated. In this study, Ag-nanoparticle (Ag-NP) and/or ZnO-nanoparticle (ZnO-NP) functional agents were incorporated into the finishing bath along with citric acid (CA) or succinic acid (SA) as ester-crosslinking or esterifying agent, and sodium hypophosphite catalyst using the padding technique. The obtained results indicated that the extent of multi-functionalization expressed as antibacterial activity, UV-blocking functionality and wrinkle recovery ability were determined by kind of nanomaterial, nature of carboxylic acid, i.e., bi- or tri-functional and type of substrate. The results also demonstrated that blended fabrics finished with Ag-NP/ZnO-NP/CA/SHP nano-finishing formulation exhibited outstanding durable multi-functional properties even after 10 washing cycles. In addition, the change in surface morphology and the existence of Ag and/or Zn onto the selected V/W fabric surfaces have been confirmed by SEM and EDX analysis respectively.     

New insight into compressive shrinkage finishing in a garment company: The effects on physical,mechanical and colorimetric properties of cotton woven fabrics

Compressive shrinkage or compressive shrinkage finishing is one of the most important finishing procedures in the textile industry to improve the dimensional stability of cotton fabrics. Study of the physical and mechanical properties of compressive shrinkage finished fabrics could be useful for optimizing the treatment conditions. This research was carried out in a production line of a recognized garment company on cotton woven fabrics with two different woven patterns (twill and plain). The samples were first dyed with reactive and sulfur dyes in a jigger dyeing machine and finished with a silicone softener. The dried fabrics were then processed in a compressive shrinkage machine. Several physical and mechanical properties of the samples were evaluated including area shrinkage, crimp percentage, thickness, abrasion resistance, drapeability, mechanical and colorimetric properties. The results showed that the thickness of all treated samples increased due to compressive shrinkage. The fabrics were analyzed with a Martindale Abrasion Tester to determine the abrasion resistance. Interestingly, we noted an increase in the abrasion resistance. After the compressive shrinkage process, the strength of the plain woven fabrics decreased in the warp direction, but increased for twill woven cotton fabrics. On the contrary, the strength of all samples increased in the weft direction. Colorimetric evaluation of the samples showed that the effect of compressive shrinkage on the color of all samples was negligible.     

Synthesis and properties of silicone polyetheramine block copolymer surfactant

In the presence of Pt catalyst, α,ω-hydrogenpolysiloxane reacted with allyl glycidyl ether, and an intermediate α,ω-diepoxysiloxane was formed. The epoxy cyclic-opening reaction was conducted between the intermediate and polyetheramine in isopropanol solution, the silicone polyetheramine block copolymer (BPEAS) was thus made. The chemical structures of BPEAS were characterized using IR and ¹H-NMR separately. Then cotton fabric was treated with BPEAS for application purpose. The finishing effects were tested in terms of film morphology, hydrophilic ability, softness and mechanical properties. The recorded results showed that BPEAS can be used directly to treat cotton fabrics without adding any emulsifier at the viscosity of 6700 mPa·s and amino value of 0.6009 mmol/g. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the treated fabric decreased by 53.53 % and 67.39 %, the drape coefficient dropped by 15 %, whereas the wrinkle recovery angle increased by 57.14 %. The treated cotton fabric is hydrophilic, and has a bulky soft hand, better anti-wrinkle property compared to the untreated one.     

Antimicrobial,UV-protective and self-cleaning properties of cotton fabrics coated by dip-coating and solvothermal coating methods

Multifunctional textiles have been widely investigated with antimicrobial, self-cleaning, UV-protective properties, etc. Especially sol-gel coating doped with bioactive agents and special agents provides to produce multifunctional textiles. In this study, dip-coating (pad-dry) and solvothermal (exhaustion) sol-gel processes were used for coating of cotton fabric with silica and titania sols to achieve the properties mentioned above. A quaternary ammonium salt and silver salts as antimicrobial doping agent were embedded in titania sols with or without silica. Antimicrobial properties against Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) of the coated fabrics were characterized. The effect of precursors, doping agents and different sol-gel processes were also compared on performance properties of the fabric samples.     

Fabric objective measurement of the plasma-treated cotton fabric subjected to wrinkle-resistant finishing with BTCA and TiO<Subscript>2</Subscript> system

Handle is an important factor when designing the end-uses of fabric as it is also a critical factor for purchasing decision. In the present study, the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F) was used for measuring the fabric handle of BTCA-TiO₂ treated cotton fabric with or without plasma pre-treatment. The results revealed that the BTCA-TiO₂ treated cotton fabrics without plasma pre-treatment had a negative effect on tensile, shearing, compressional, and surface properties while the bending properties were improved. On the other hand, the plasma pre-treatment improved the tensile and compressional properties, but not the bending, shearing, and surface properties.     

Silver containing sol-gel coatings on polyamide fabrics as antimicrobial finish-description of a technical application process for wash permanent antimicrobial effect

This paper reports on an antimicrobial finishing for polyamide with high washfastness. As antimicrobial agent modified silica sols containing silver components are used as coating agent and are applied to the polyamide fabric by using a semi-industrial procedure. The antimicrobial properties of coated polyamide fabrics are determined against the bacteria E. coli. Significant antimicrobial effects are observed even after 40 washing cycles. The amount of silver on the polyamide fabrics was measured by using ICP-OES. Besides this, samples are investigated by means of UV/Vis-spectroscopy and scanning electron microscopy. Furthermore textile properties as, e.g., air permeability and mechanical properties were measured. Due to high antimicrobial effect and the strong washfastness of this finishing, this reported method could be of high interest for industrial production processes.