A new approach for numerical identification of bending behavior of plain woven fabric

There is a variety of approaches for investigating bending behavior of woven fabrics. Some of them are based on fabric deformation with one edge fixed; the others are based on measurement of force, moment or energy producing bending deformation. In all methods, bending properties is acquired after testing prepared fabric samples. Therefore, in this work an attempt is made by a mechanical model and a novel calculation technique to determine bending characteristics of the plain woven fabrics before sample production. Theoretical data including bending length, bending rigidity and bending modulus were directly determined for supposed fabric samples with a given yarn count and yarn density using Peirce’s structural model for plain woven fabric and a especial code written in Maple12. Besides, fabric samples with the defined characteristics were woven on a Sulzer-Ruti weaving machine. Then, these fabrics were tested for bending behavior using Shirley bending tester. Comparison showed good agreement between predicted and measured bending characteristics of the fabrics. However, theoretical bending rigidities of the samples were more than experimental values.     

Formability analysis of worsted woven fabrics considering fabric direction

Over years predicting fabric behaviour during garment manufacturing process was considered by researchers in order to reduce manufacturing problems and achieve high quality products. Fabric formability which is affected by bending and tensile behaviour through the application of small loads is a property which can predict fabric performance precisely. However, this property changes regarding fabric direction and is not constant. In this study, fabric formability is examined for worsted woven fabrics in a more detailed way by evaluating this property in various fabric directions. It was concluded that fabric formability could be expressed as a sinusoidal function of sample orientation towards warp direction. Moreover, studying several weave structures with different weft densities reveals that the less the firmness of fabric construction the more the value of fabric formability which indicates the better adaption of fabric to the exerted deformation.     

A new catalyst for glyoxal durable press finish of cotton fabrics

Aluminum ammonium sulfate was used as a new catalyst for glyoxal to minimize the decrease of physical properties of durable press cotton fabrics, and the optimum treatment conditions such as the concentration of glyoxal, molar ratio of catalyst to glyoxal, curing temperature and time were investigated. The retention of tensile strength and the whiteness of fabrics treated with glyoxal/aluminum ammonium sulfate was increased as much as to the degree of that obtained with glyoxal/aluminum sulfate while wrinkle recovery angles were as good as those of the latter. Some additives such as DEG, polyurethane and softener were used to improve the physical properties. When DEG or polyurethane was added to the glyoxal padding solution, wrinkle recovery angle (WRA) significantly increased while tensile strength and whiteness were not influenced. DEG added to the glyoxal padding solution increased the durability of DP finish. The softener added to the glyoxal padding solution increased the WRA of treated fabrics while it decreased the tensile strength slightly. The whiteness of fabrics treated with glyoxal alone increased while the WRA decreased slightly.     

The effect of twist liveliness on the woven fabric distortion

This paper deals with the grey fabric deformation during relaxation. It investigates the effect of twist direction and twist liveliness on the 2/2 twill weave woven fabric distortion, during relaxation This experimental work shows that twist liveliness increases the natural tendency of the twill weave woven fabric to skew. In addition when the twist direction of the warp and weft is opposite to each other the bias curling occurs too.     

Automatic recognition of woven fabric patterns based on pattern database

In traditional method, the woven fabric pattern can not be easily recognized because of the error judgments of float type. To solve this problem, a novel method based on the pattern database was proposed to detect the woven fabric pattern in this study. FCM algorithm was used to classify the floats in the fabric image into two categories, warp floats and weft floats. The classification result then was then compared with the standard patterns in the pattern database, and the similar coefficients between them were calculated. The pattern which has the largest similar coefficient with the classification result was considered as the correct woven pattern, and its diagram and name were output in the system. The test for actual fabric images indicated that the method proposed can recognize the fabric patterns effectively, and the diagram and name of the fabric pattern can be recognized simultaneously. The experiments can also prove that the algorithm which is based on pattern database has good fault tolerant ability, and it can recognize the fabric patterns with a range of error judgments.     

Evaluation of anti-stabbing performance of fabric layers woven with various hybrid yarns under different fabric conditions

Various types of special fibers are used for human body protection, mostly in the form of fiber-reinforced composites. These composites are made of special fibers and matrix resin; however, they are often not comfortable for the wearer due to the lack of flexibility and air permeability. This study focuses on an evaluation of human body protective performance against stabbing for various special fibers such as aramid, basalt, and steel fibers, being utilized in cotton hybrid forms. These hybrid forms are designed to improve wearer comfort, while maintaining adequate anti-stab resistance. Specimens prepared with various fabric densities are tested in terms of anti-stabbing performance, according to the NIJ standard. In addition, we investigate the influence of factors such as fiber type, the number of fabric layers, fabric weight, and fabric density on anti-stabbing performance. Results show that the penetration depth of the impactor, which punctures and protrudes through the specimens, decreases with the number of layers, the thickness, and the mass of the armor sample; however, these factors have different relationships according to the material type. Consequently an objective evaluation of anti-stabbing performance is needed. We suggest an anti-stabbing index that can be applied as a criterion to evaluate the antistabbing performance of various specimens woven with special fibers under different fabric conditions. Using the new index, anti-stabbing performances of various specimens can be compared and raw material and fabric conditions that offer the most efficient anti-stabbing performance can be selected.     

Investigating seamed woven fabric drape using experimental and virtual approaches

The aim of this study was to investigate the drape properties of seamed woven fabric using experimental and virtual approaches. Firstly, the influence of different seams on the fabric drape parameters was analyzed based on bending and draping experiments. Then, a preliminary drape simulation method for seamed fabric was presented using shell finite elements. The models with seams were simplified and separated into shell fabric partitions and seam partitions. The projection images of all models were extracted for calculating the drape coefficient and average radius. Through contrasting of drape profiles and correlate analysis of drape parameters, it shows that the drape properties between simulating and testing are very similar and correlated. Furthermore, their regression formulas of drape coefficient and average radius were given by regression analysis. The work has some helps for further study on evaluating and simulating the garment aesthetic performance in considering of seam’s mechanical properties.     

Properties of stick-slip stage of yarn pull-out in para-aramid woven fabric

The aim of this study was to understand stick-slip properties of para-aramid woven fabrics. For this reason, pullout test was conducted on para-aramid Kevlar®29 and Kevlar®129 woven fabrics. The stick-slip and accumulative retraction force regions were defined based on the force-displacement curve. It was found that the stick-slip force and accumulative retraction force depended on fabric density and the number of pulled ends in the fabric. Stick-slip force in the multiple yarn pull-out test was higher than those of the single yarn pull-out test. Stick-slip force in single and multiple yarn pull-out tests in the dense K29 fabric were higher than those of the loose K129 fabric. In addition, long fabric samples showed high stick-slip force compared to that of the short fabric samples. On the other hand, the amount of stick-slip force was related to the number of interlacement points in the fabric whereas the amount of accumulative retraction force was related to fabric structural response.     

Effects of sample dimensions on pull-out properties of woven fabric structures

The aim of this study was to understand the effects of fabric sample dimensions on pull-out properties of fabric weaves. Polyester woven fabrics were used to conduct the pull-out tests. A yarn pull-out fixture was developed and data generated from this research. Yarn pull-out forces depend on sample dimensions, fabric density, fabric weave, and number of pulled ends in the fabric. Results showed that multiple and single yarn pull-out forces of long samples were higher than those of short samples, and the multiple yarn pull-out force was higher than that of the single yarn pull-out force, and dense fabric has high pull-out force. Plain fabric weave showed high single and multiple pull-out forces compared to ribs and satin fabric weaves. The regression model could be used in this study as a viable and reliable tool. This research could be valuable for development of multifunctional fabrics in technical textile applications.     

Analysis of woven fabric structure using image analysis and artificial intelligence

An integrated hardware and software system has been developed that can automate the analysis process of various woven fabric structures. Although the analysis of woven structure is one of the most important steps in the fabric design and quality control process, it has been dependent only on human skills with primitive devices. In this study, a dedicated hardware system has been developed to obtain an ultra-high resolution fabric images. Then a series of image analysis technique was applied to locate the intersecting regions of warps and wefts on those images. Finally, an artificial neural network was formed to determine the woven structure of fabric based on the two shape parameters extracted from those regions.     

Dyeing and fastness properties of vat dyes on meta-aramid woven fabric

meta-Aramid fibers have an excellent heat-resistant property and are widely used for protective clothings such as fire-fighter suit and racing suit. They can also be used as military uniforms such as flight suit or army uniform. Vat dyes are specially used for military uniforms owing to outstanding fastness properties, earth tone shade, and near infrared (NIR) camouflage. In this study, 100 % meta-aramid woven fabric was dyed with three vat dyes using an exhaustion method and their dyeing and fastness properties were investigated. Color yields of the vat dyes on the meta-aramid fabric were found to be dependent upon dyeing temperature, liquor ratio, amount of reducing agent, and amount of salt. Dyeing behavior of the vat dye on the meta-aramid fiber was very similar to that on cellulose fibers. It was found that the meta-aramid fabric dyed with 1% owf of C.I. Vat Green 1 satisfied the tolerance of the reflectance spectrum of forest green color in the Korean military standard. Thermal stability and mechanical property of the meta-aramid fabric did not significantly affected by the vat dyeing process. Wash and perspiration fastness was generally good but rubbing and light fastness was unsatisfied.     

全球棉花及棉纺织品和服装零售的趋势

1全球棉价走势 全球棉价的长期平均值为每磅72美分。自1995年WTO农业协议生效以来，全球棉价持续走低，2001年跌至每磅42美分左右，是29年以来的最低水平（见图1）。仅在2003年11月棉价才在短期内突破76美分（见图2）。随后又急剧下跌，于2004年12月跌至每磅43美分。棉价上涨的主要原因是棉价触底后。全球棉花库存持续减少，供需失衡造成的。近期棉价（2005年11月17日）维持在每磅56美分左右。     

Applying image analysis to automatic inspection of fabric density for woven fabrics

The gray line-profile method is introduced to find fabric density. Some patterned fabrics like stripe design as well as solid fabrics of basic weave structures are used to verify the efficiency and accuracy of the method. The approach is compared with Fourier transform method. Although the gray line-profile method is concise, it shows good results in both solid and patterned fabrics. In addition, it does not require a pre-processing or filtering technique in space or frequency domain to enhance the image suitable for the analysis. However, the approach is slightly influenced by the filter size for finding the local minimums of profile graph.     

Automatic classification of woven fabric structure based on texture feature and PNN

In today’s textile industry, the classification of woven fabrics is usually manual which requires considerable human efforts and a long time. With the rapid development of computer vision, the automatic and efficient methods for woven fabric classification are desperately needed. This paper proposes an automatic and real-time classification method to analyze three woven fabrics: plain, twill and satin weave. The methodology involves two approaches to extract texture features, that is, gray-level co-occurrence matrix (GLCM) and Gabor wavelet. Then, principal component analysis (PCA) is utilized to deal with the texture feature vectors to gain minimize redundancy and maximize principal component feature vectors. Finally, in the classification phase, probabilistic neural network (PNN) is applied to classify three basic woven fabrics. With strong realtime, fault-tolerance and non-linear classification capability, PNN can be a promising tool for classification of woven fabrics. The experimental results show that PNN classifier with faster training speed can classify woven fabrics accurately and efficiently. Besides, compared with GLCM method and Gabor wavelet method, the fusion of the two feature vectors obtains the best classification result (95 %).     

Effect of heat-treatment on stretch of poly(trimethylene terephthalate) woven fabric

The properties of a woven fabric made of poly(trimethylene terephthalate) (PTT) were investigated. The PTT fabric of draw textured yarn (DTY) showed excellent stretch as good as a fabric containing spandex. However, the unique stretch of the PTT fabric reduced dramatically by simple heat-treatment even at as low as 80 °C. To understand the phenomenon, the crimp rigidity of the DTY was observed by SEM. It was found that the drastic reduction of stretch was caused by irreversible uncrimping of PTT DTY after heat-treatment. Conclusively, it is of importance to optimize the texturing conditions for PTT DTY to make the crimp more stable.     

Study on antibacterial and comfort performances of cotton fabric finished by chitosan-silver for intimate apparel

The fabric used for intimate apparel is widely required to have excellent antibacterial and comfort performances. In order to improve its antibacterial ability, this paper studied chitosan-silver finishing on the cotton knitted fabric. The study indicates that the chitosan-silver attached to the fabric exhibits excellent antibacterial action against the typical bacteria of Escherichia coli (E. coli) and Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureu). The anti-bacterial mechanism of chitosan-silver against E. coli and S. aureu were investigated. To guarantee its prominent comfort performance, measurements were made on the finished fabric of its air permeability, water vapor transmission, hydrophily, surface friction and bending ability against the control fabric, which is currently used for intimate apparel. The antibacterial and comfort performances were compared between the tested fabrics. The results show that the air permeability and the hydrophily of the finished cotton fabric are significantly better than the control one, while the water vapor transmission, the surface friction and the adjustable rate remain similar to each other. The bending rigidity of the finished fabric is slightly better due to the attachment of chitosan within accepted threshold. The dual compounding theory of chitosan-silver proves to be useful for a higher synergistic effect of anti-bacteria, lower whiteness degradation and overall optimization of comfort performance. This dual compounding theory of chitosan-silver is valuable for improving antibacterial and comfort performances of intimate apparel.     

Durable press finish of cotton fabric using malic acid as a crosslinker

It has been considered that malic acid,α-hydroxy succinic acid, could not form crosslinks in the cellulosic materials unless activated by other polycarboxylic acids such as butanetetracarboxylic acid or citric acid because there are only two carboxylic acids per molecule available for the formation of one anhydride intermediate. However we found that the dicarboxylic malic acid with sodium hypophosphite catalyst without the addition of other crosslinkers was able to improve wrinkle resistance of cotton up to 294° (dry WRA) and 285° (wet WRA), which is a measure of crosslinking level in cotton.¹H FT-NMR, FT-IR and GPC analysis indicated the in-situ formation of an trimericα, β-malic acid with a composition of 1:3 through the esterification between hydroxyl group and one of carboxylic groups in malic acid during curing. The crosslinking of cotton was attributed to the trimericα, β-malic acid, a tetracarboxylic acid, which can form two anhydride rings during curing. The influence of crosslinking conditions such as concentrations of malic acid and catalyst, pH of the formulation bath, and curing temperature were investigated in terms of imparted wrinkle resistance and whiteness. The addition of reactive polyurethane resin in the formulation slightly increased the mechanical strength retention of crosslinked fabric coupled with additional increase in wrinkle resistance.     

The effect of weft density on the skewness of the twill weave woven fabric

This experimental study investigates the effect of weft density on the skewness of the twill weave woven fabrics. A total of 12 rolls of woven fabrics - 2/2, 3/3 and 4/4 - twill weave, with 20, 22, 24 and 26 weft densities were produced and their skewness due to relaxation was measured. The measured values show that as the weft density increases from 20 to 26, the skewness decreases from 2.4, 2.9, 3.6 to 1, 1.1 and 1.15 respectively. This decrease supports the idea that the increase in weft density drops the effect of the weave type on skewness. In fact, this experimental work reveals that increase in weft density lowers the free spaces between the floats, shortens the float length and raises the shearing rigidity of the fabric and as a result the ability of the warp floats’ in-plane lever to move and skew is lowered.     

Facile process for the fabrication of durable superhydrophobic fabric with oil/water separation property

A durable superhydrophobic fabric with oil/water separation property has been successfully prepared by introducing the modified silica nanoparticles and polysiloxane. The as-prepared fabric shows liquid repellency not only to water but also to coffee, milk and tea droplets, which are normal in daily life. Furthermore, the treated fabric shows simultaneous superhydrophobicity and superoleophilicity, which could be utilized as materials to separate oil/water mixture with high efficiency. It is important to note that the obtained fabric kept stable superhydrophobicity even after it suffered severe friction damage. The surface morphologies of untreated/treated fabrics were characterized by the scanning electron microscopy. The chemical compositions were characterized by X-ray photoelectric energy spectroscopy and Fourier transform infrared spectrum. This functionalized fabric will be helpful for developing superhydrophobic and selective oil adsorption materials.