Mechanical properties and hand evaluation of hemp woven fabrics treated with liquid ammonia

The effects of liquid ammonia (L/A) treatment on the mechanical properties and hand of 100 % hemp woven fabrics were investigated by the KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric). Tensile energy and tensile resilience were increased by the L/A treatment. Bending and shearing values such as bending rigidity, bending moment, shear stiffness, shear hysteresis of the L/A treated fabrics were lower than those of the untreated ones. Compressional linearity and compressional energy were decreased while the compressional resilience was increased by the L/A treatment. From the hand evaluation, the primary hand values as well as total hand value of the hemp fabric were markedly increased by the L/A treatment, especially when yarn number was fine. Therefore, L/A treatment was found to be an effective method of improving the flexibility and softness of hemp woven fabrics.     

Pull-out properties of polyester woven fabrics: Effects of softening agent and interlacement on single and multiple yarn pull-out forces and analysis by statistical model

The aim of this study was to understand the effects of softening treatment on pull-out properties of plain, ribs and satin fabrics. Polyester woven fabrics were used to conduct the pull-out tests. Data generated from these tests included pullout force, crimp extension and fabric displacement. A developed yarn pull-out fixture was used to perform single and multiple pull-out tests on treated and untreated polyester fabrics. Yarn pull-out forces depend on fabric treatments, fabric density, fabric weave, and the number of pulled ends in the fabric. The results of regression model showed that multiple and single yarn pull-out forces of treated fabrics were lower than those of untreated fabrics. The multiple yarn pull-out force was higher than that of the single yarn pull-out force, and that dense fabric had a high pull-out force. Treated and untreated plain fabrics had high single and multiple pull-out forces compared to those of treated and untreated ribs and satin fabrics. Yarn crimp extension depends on directional crimp ratios in the fabric and the number of pulled yarn ends. High directional crimp ratio fabric showed high directional yarn crimp extension. Fabric displacement depends on the number of pulled yarn ends and also fabric treatments. Fabric displacement in multiple pull-out tests showed high fabric displacement compared to that of single pull-out tests. On the other hand, the regression model could be used in this study as a viable and reliable tool.     

Assessment of the surface roughness of cotton fabrics through different yarn and fabric structural properties

The effects of some yarn properties (i.e. type, count, twist level, ply number, unevenness and crimp) and fabric constructional properties (i.e. cover, thickness and balance) on surface roughness values of cotton woven fabrics were investigated. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness values of fabrics were affected from yarn and fabric properties and the effects were related to fabric balance, fabric cover (not cover factor), fabric thickness and crimp values of yarns in fabric structures. Surface roughness values of fabrics decreased as yarn fineness and yarn twist levels increased but as yarn ply number decreased. Also, surface roughness values gradually decreased from open-end yarn constituting fabrics to combed yarn constituting fabrics. Results showed that different properties of yarns caused changes in yarn crimps in fabric structure and also governed the changes in fabric balance, as well as changes in roughness of fabric surfaces. The changing properties of yarns and impact of these properties on fabric construction affected the formation of cotton fabric surfaces from smooth to coarse.     

Transglutaminase treatment for improving wool fabric properties

The microbial transglutaminase (mTGase) is used as a bio-catalyst to repair the wool damages caused by chemical or enzymatic treatments. In this paper, the effect of mTGase on the degree of yarn strength, area shrinkage, wettability, and the dyeing properties of wool was investigated. Through mTGase treatment, the yarn strength was improved about 22.2 %. The knitted wool fabrics treated with mTGase after pretreatment of H₂O₂ and protease displayed 7.5 % of area shrinkage and about 22.3 % recovery in tensile strength when compared with those treated without mTGase. Also, mTGase treatment could improve the wettability and dyeing properties of wool fabrics. With the increase of mTGase concentration, the initial dye exhaustion increased significantly and the time to reach the dyeing equilibrium was shortened. It was evident that the improvement of dyeing properties was closely related to the improvement of wettability performance of wool fabric by using transglutaminase.     

The effect of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness of polyester fabrics

The effects of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness values of textured polyester woven fabrics with different constructional parameters were investigated. The warp yarn properties (type, count and warp density) were kept constant while the effect of variation in weft yarn density and weave pattern were studied. Measurements were conducted on pre-treated white fabric samples and the results assessed in relation to their constructional properties. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness values of polyester fabrics affected by fabric balance and fabric cover and the effects were related to fabric thickness, yarn densities, yarn crimp, positioning of yarns in fabric structure. A change in weave pattern from sateen to plain increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased the surface roughness. Similarly, an increase in weft density increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased surface roughness. In order to produce fabrics with smooth surface properties yarn density should be increased, yarn float lengths decreased, cover of fabrics increased and fabric balance improved.     

Characterizations of stick-slip stage of yarn pull-out in dry and softening treated polyester plain woven fabric

The aim of this study was to understand the stick-slip properties of polyester plain woven fabric. For this reason, pull-out test was conducted on dry and softening treated polyester woven fabrics. It was found that stick-slip force and accumulative retraction force depend on the number of pulled ends in the fabric, fabric sample dimensions and softening treatments. Stick-slip forces of polyester fabric in the multiple yarn pull-out test were higher than those of the single yarn pull-out test. Stick-slip force in single and multiple yarn pull-out tests in the dry polyester plain fabric were generally higher than those of the softening treated polyester plain fabric. On the other hand, the amount of stick-slip force was related to the number of interlacement points in the fabric whereas the amount of accumulative retraction force was related to fabric structural response.     

Comparative study of cellulase treatment on low stress mechanical properties of cotton denim fabric made by torque-free ring spun yarn

Cellulase is useful for bio-polishing cotton fabrics which enhances their aesthetic performance instead of stonewashing process. Torque-free ring spun process is a widely used technique to produce newly low-twist and balanced torque yarns with soft hand. In this paper, denim fabrics woven with torque-free ring spun yarn and conventional ring spun yarn respectively were treated with cellulase under the same condition and their fabric handle, expressed as low stress mechanical properties, such as tensile strength, bending, shearing, compression and surface performance were investigated by Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F). After cellulase treatment, both denim fabrics revealed better flexibility, elasticity recovery, raised shearing stiffness, fluffier and improved smoothness. While torque-free ring spun yarn made denim fabric showed a better fabric handle than conventional ring spun yarn made denim fabric.     

Compression properties of weft knitted fabrics consisting of shrinkable and non-shrinkable acrylic fibers

High-bulk worsted yarns with different shrinkable and non-shrinkable acrylic fibers blend ratios are produced and then single jersey weft knitted fabrics with three different structures and loop lengths are constructed. The physical properties of produced yarns and compression properties of produced fabrics at eight pressure values (50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, 1500 and 2000 g/cm²) were measured using a conventional fabric thickness tester. Then, weft-knitted fabric compression behavior was analyzed using a two parameters model. It is found that at 40% shrinkable fibre blending ratio the maximum yarn bulk, shrinkage, abrasion resistance and minimum yarn strength are obtained. It is also shown that high-bulk acrylic yarn has the highest elongation at 20% shrinkable fibre blend ratio. The statistical regression analysis revealed that the compression behavior of acrylic weft-knitted fabrics is highly closed to two parameter model proposed for woven fabrics. It is also shown that for weft-knitted structure, there is an incompressible layer (V′) which resists against high compression load. Acrylic weft-knitted fabrics with knit-tuck structure exhibit higher compression rigidity and lower softness than the plain and knitmiss structures. In addition, at 20% shrinkable fibre blend ratio, the high-bulk acrylic weft-knitted fabrics are highly compressible.     

Effects of sample dimensions on pull-out properties of woven fabric structures

The aim of this study was to understand the effects of fabric sample dimensions on pull-out properties of fabric weaves. Polyester woven fabrics were used to conduct the pull-out tests. A yarn pull-out fixture was developed and data generated from this research. Yarn pull-out forces depend on sample dimensions, fabric density, fabric weave, and number of pulled ends in the fabric. Results showed that multiple and single yarn pull-out forces of long samples were higher than those of short samples, and the multiple yarn pull-out force was higher than that of the single yarn pull-out force, and dense fabric has high pull-out force. Plain fabric weave showed high single and multiple pull-out forces compared to ribs and satin fabric weaves. The regression model could be used in this study as a viable and reliable tool. This research could be valuable for development of multifunctional fabrics in technical textile applications.     

Surface Modification of Wool Fabric with POSS® Nanomaterial

Wool fabrics, without any surface treatment, can undergo undesirable and irreversible structural changes of wool fiber during washing under heat and mechanical agitation, leading to high shrinkage of wool garments. The traditional method based on polyamide resin can prevent felting and/or shrinkage of wool textiles, but adversely affect the surface hydrophobicity. In the present study, a treatment solution was developed based on TriSilanolIsooctyl POSS® and 3- mercaptopropyl trimethoxysilane, which created wool surface with increased hydrophobicity and highly resistant to shrinkage or felting, as measured after 3×5A wash cycles (equivalent to 24 domestic washes). After the treatment, the wool fabric appeared to be superhydrophobic with a water contact angle of above 150°, compared to the untreated fabric. The treatment has marginal effect on mechanical performance as observed in tensile properties. Scanning electron microscopic images revealed a coating of POSS® on the wool surface. The dyeing of untreated and treated fabrics appeared to be uniform to the naked eye, though spectrophotometric analysis indicated a difference in the extent of dyeing performance. This research showed that POSS®-based treatment is a potentially effective approach for developing shrink-resistant wool textiles with enhanced surface hydrophobicity, in contrast to traditional chlorine/polyamide resin treatment.     

The antimicrobial characteristic study of acrylic fiber treated with metal salts and direct dyes

Acrylic fabric was treated with direct dyes in combination with copper and zinc sulfates as mordanting agents and then tested for their antimicrobial activity against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria. The metal salts used were also studied for their likely effects on the antimicrobial property of fabrics dyed with C.I. Direct Yellow 12, C.I. Direct Red 23, C.I. Direct Red 31, and C.I. Direct Black 38. Untreated (control) acrylic fabric exhibited no antibacterial behavior whilst dyed and mordanted fabrics revealed considerable antimicrobial properties. It was found that the fabric treated with C.I. Direct Yellow 12 and copper sulfate as mordant achieved the highest antimicrobial activity with good washing fastness. Finally, FT-IR analysis, light, and washing fastnesses of the treated samples were evaluated.     

Electromagnetic interference shielding effectiveness of SS/PET hybrid yarn incorporated woven fabrics

A detailed study of electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMSE) of woven fabrics made of polyester and stainless steel/polyester blended conductive yarn was presented in this research work. Fabrics with different structures were analyzed and their shielding behavior was reported under different frequencies. Shielding efficiency of fabric was analyzed by vector network analyzer in the frequency range of 300 kHz to 1.5 GHz using coaxial transmission line holder. The effects of different fabric parameters such as weft density, proportion of conductive weft yarn, proportion of stainless steel content, grid openness, weave pattern and number of fabric layers on EMSE of fabrics were studied. The EMSE of fabric was found to be increased with increase in proportion of conductive yarn in the weft way. With increase in overall stainless-steel content in the fabric, the EMSE of fabric was increased. As such weave is considered, it did not have significant effect on EMSE of fabrics. But fabric with lower openness and aperture ratio showed better conducting network, hence better shielding. With increase in number of layers of fabric and ply yarns, EMSE of fabric was increased.     

Comparison of composites made from fungal defibrated hemp with composites of traditional hemp yarn

Aligned epoxy-matrix composites were made from hemp fibres defibrated with the fungi Phlebia radiata Cel 26 and Ceriporiopsis subvermispora previously used for biopulping of wood. The fibres produced by cultivation of P. radiata Cel 26 were more cellulose rich (78%, w/w) than water-retted hemp due to more degradation of pectin and lignin. The defibrated hemp fibres had higher fibre stiffness (88–94 GPa) than the hemp yarn (60 GPa), which the fibre twisting in hemp yarn might explain. Even though mild processing was applied, the obtained fibre strength (643 MPa) was similar to the strength of traditionally produced hemp yarn (677 MPa). The fibre strength and stiffness properties are derived from composite data using the rule of mixtures model. The fibre tensile strength increased linearly with cellulose content to 850 MPa for pure cellulose. The fibre stiffness increased also versus the cellulose content and cellulose crystallinity and reached a value of 125 GPa for pure crystalline cellulose.     

Sound absorption and viscoelastic property of acoustical automotive nonwovens and their plasma treatment

Sound absorption property, viscoelastic property and the effect of plasma treatment of four automotive nonwoven fabrics on these properties are discussed in this research paper. Needle-punched fabrics used for vehicle headliner include 2 polyester fabrics made of hollow polyester fibers or solid polyester fibers, and 2 polypropylene-composite cellulose fabrics made of jute fibers or kenaf fibers, manufactured with the same web structure of apparent fabric density and fabric thickness. Hollow polyester fiber fabric has the highest sound absorption and the highest loss factor, the second highest is jute fiber fabric. The viscoelastic property is found to be related to the sound absorption property of fabric. The plasma treatment on nonwoven fabrics changes their sound absorption and viscoelastic property as well as their fabric weight and pore size. Hollow polyester fabric shows the increased sound absorption and viscoelastic property after the treatment with the increased pore sizes, while regular polyester fabric displays insignificant changes. The cellulose fabrics are more affected by plasma treatment compared to the polyester fabrics in terms of fabric weight loss and pore size, and jute fabric is more affected than kenaf fabric due to fiber weakness. The jute fabric demonstrates the decreased sound absorption and viscoelastic property, while kenaf fabric shows the increased sound absorption with the unchanged viscoelastic property after the treatment.     

Using artificial neural network to predict colour properties of laser-treated 100% cotton fabric

In this paper, artificial neural network (ANN) model was used for predicting colour properties of 100 % cotton fabrics, including colour yield (in terms of K/S value) and CIE L, a, and b values, under the influence of laser engraving process with various combination of laser processing parameters. Variables examined in the ANN model included fibre composition, fabric density (warp and weft direction), mass of fabric, fabric thickness and linear density of yarn (warp and weft direction). The ANN model was compared with a linear regression model where the ANN model produced superior results in prediction of colour properties of laser engraved 100 % cotton fabrics. The relative importance of the examined factors influencing colour properties was also investigated. The analysis revealed that laser processing parameters played an important role in affecting the colour properties of the treated 100 % cotton fabrics.     

Properties of stick-slip stage of yarn pull-out in para-aramid woven fabric

The aim of this study was to understand stick-slip properties of para-aramid woven fabrics. For this reason, pullout test was conducted on para-aramid Kevlar®29 and Kevlar®129 woven fabrics. The stick-slip and accumulative retraction force regions were defined based on the force-displacement curve. It was found that the stick-slip force and accumulative retraction force depended on fabric density and the number of pulled ends in the fabric. Stick-slip force in the multiple yarn pull-out test was higher than those of the single yarn pull-out test. Stick-slip force in single and multiple yarn pull-out tests in the dense K29 fabric were higher than those of the loose K129 fabric. In addition, long fabric samples showed high stick-slip force compared to that of the short fabric samples. On the other hand, the amount of stick-slip force was related to the number of interlacement points in the fabric whereas the amount of accumulative retraction force was related to fabric structural response.     

Assessment of color strength and color difference values of polyester fabrics containing continuous weft yarns after abrasion

This paper assesses the color difference and color strength values (K/S) obtained for eight disperse-dyed polyester fabric samples with different fabric construction parameters (weft yarn type, weft yarn count, weft density and fabric weave) after four sets of abrasion cycles. Warp yarn type and count, warp density, and warp yarn twist are the same for all fabrics. Fabric samples are dyed in a commercial red disperse dye (C.I. Disperse Red 74:1) and four different abrasion cycles (2500, 5000, 7500, 10000) are used. TheK/S values of the abraided fabrics and color difference values between the control fabric (dyed but not abraided) and abraded fabrics are calculated. The main differences in theK/S and color difference values are observed between 0–2500 abrasion cycles. The high tenacity of the polyester fibers and continuous polyester yarns causes some fuzz but no pilling formation on the fabric surface that lead to increasedK/S values and color differences. Fiber dullness, yarn thickness, yarn density and fabric weave are concluded to have different effects on the appearance after abrasion.     

Selection of yarn for the predefined tensile strength of cotton woven fabrics

In order to meet the required strength of a fabric, selection of yarn is difficult because tensile strength of woven fabric depends upon a number of factors. Still, the manufacturers have to use hit and trial method in order to select the yarn for the required tensile strength of fabric. This study was carried out to develop regression equations for the prediction of yarn tensile strength suitable for the predefined strength of cotton woven fabrics. These equations were developed by using empirical data obtained from two hundred and thirty four fabric samples prepared under a systematic plan with different constructions. Prediction proficiency and precision of these regression equations were evaluated by correlation analysis of the predicted and actual warp and weft yarn strength values of another set of thirty six fabric samples. The results show a very strong prediction precision of the equations.     

Knitted fabric relaxation by ultrasound and its characterization with yarn-pullout force

An investigation on the dimensional properties of plain knitted fabric produced from cotton yarn and subjected to different relaxation treatments is presented in this paper. The main aim of this research is to characterize the internal energy of fabric by using yarn-pullout test method in ultrasonic relaxation state and compare it with other common mechanical relaxation treatments. A comprehensive experimental analysis showed that, by using ultrasonic waves, the area geometry constant value (k _s) achieved was higher than the conventional relaxation methods. Then, we introduced residual-energy forming and loss-energy uniforming. The former appeared due to fabric shrinkage and the later one appeared due to release of fabric loops from extra forces which imposed during knitting process. The results also indicated that ultrasonic waves energy causes more uniformity on loop and consequently, the fabric reaches to a less internal energy than washing treatment.     

Moisture and thermal permeability of the hollow textured PET imbedded woven fabrics for high emotional garments

This study examined the effects of the total porosity, pore size, and cover factor on the moisture and thermal permeability of woven fabrics made from DTY (draw textured yarns) and ATY (air jet textured yarns) composite yarns with hollow PET (polyethylene terephthalate) yarns. The wicking of the hollow composite yarn fabrics was found to be superior to that of the high twisted yarn fabrics, which may be due to the high porosity in the hollow composites yarns, but this was not related to the cover factor. The drying characteristics of the hollow composite yarn fabric with high porosity were inferior compared to the high twisted yarn fabrics due to the large amounts of liquid water in the large pores, which resulted in a longer drying time of the fabric. The thermal conductivity of the hollow composite yarn fabrics decreased with increasing measured pore diameter due to the bulky yarn structure. The effects of the hollowness of the yarn on the thermal conductivity were more dominant than those of the yarn structural parameters. The air permeability increased with increasing measured pore diameter but the effects of the cover factor on the air permeability were not observed in the hollow composite yarn fabrics. The effects of porosity on the moisture and thermal permeability of the woven fabrics made from the hollow composite filaments were found to be critical, i.e., wicking and air permeability increase with increasing porosity. In addition, the drying rate increased with increasing porosity and the thermal conductivity decreased with increasing pore diameter, but were independent of the cover factor.