Investigation of air permeability of core spun cotton/spandex weft knitted structures under relaxation

In this research work, air permeability variations of core spun cotton/spandex single jersey and 1×1 rib knitted structures were studied under relaxation treatments. Results are compared with similar fabrics made from 100 % cotton material. Even though cotton/spandex fabrics knitted with same stitch lengths, their structural spacing and stitch densities vary with the progression of treatments. Similar behavior was also observed with 100 % cotton knitted structures. Under higher machine set stitch lengths (i.e., lower fabric tightness factor), higher structural spacing and lower stitch densities were resulted and those variations significantly affected on the air permeability variations of knitted structures. 1×1 rib knitted structures showed significantly higher air permeability than single jersey structures and it is more prominent with cotton rib structures. However, cotton/spandex 1×1 rib and single jersey structures have not showed such significant deviations. Air permeability of cotton/spandex and 100 % cotton rib and single jersey knitted structures decreased with lower machine set stitch lengths (i.e., at higher fabric tightness factors). There was a correlation with fabric tightness, air permeability, areal density and fabric thickness such as knitted fabrics became tighter, their weight and thickness were higher, while their air permeability was lower. Thus, fabric areal density and fabric thickness are positively correlates to machine set stitch length^?1 (fabric tightness factor). Air permeability of a knitted structure depends on material type, knitted structure, stitch length, relaxation treatment, structural spacing and stitch density.     

Effect of washing cycles on behavior of core spun cotton/spandex interlock structures

Effect of machine washing on structural behavior of core spun cotton/spandex interlock fabrics made with high, medium and low tightness factors has been investigated. Results are compared with those for similar fabrics knitted from 100 % cotton. Structural behavior of cotton/spandex and cotton fabric samples was observed under full relaxation and washing treatments up to 10th cycle. Based on these data, dimensional constants (U-values) were predicted under 95 % significance level. Higher course and wale densities, stitch densities, dimensional constant values, linear and area dimensional shrinkages are reported with cotton/spandex interlocks. After treatment levels, cotton/spandex showed the dimensional constants with lesser CV %. With increasing fabric tightness, decreasing of length shrinkages and area shrinkages and increasing of width shrinkages are reported in cotton/spandex interlock structures. Cotton/spandex interlocks showed longitudinally and highly deformed shapes after treatments. Fabric tightness affects significantly on structural behavior of cotton/ spandex and cotton structures during relaxation.     

Dimensional stability of cotton-spandex interlock structures under relaxation

In this study, dimensional characteristics of core spun cotton/spandex interlock structures with high, medium and low tightness factors were studied under dry-, wet-, and full relaxation conditions. Results are compared with those for similar fabrics knitted from 100 % cotton. Dimensional characteristics of samples of core-spun cotton/spandex and cotton are measured by considering the changing of course-, wale- densities and stitch densities under dry, wet and full relaxation conditions. Based on these data, dimensional constants (U-values) were predicted under 95 % significance level. Higher U-values are reported with cotton/spandex interlocks than 100 % cotton and under full relaxation, cotton/spandex shows the U-values with lesser CV%. Stitch density growth is linearly correlated with tightness factor for both interlock material structures. Excellent resiliency property of cotton/spandex yarns increases tightness factors at machine off state and during relaxation states. Cotton/spandex interlock structures show more prominent co-relationship with their tightness factors on their dimensional parameters.     

Dimensional and physical properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 50/50 bamboo/cotton blended yarns

In this study, the dimensional and some physical properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 50/50 bamboo/cotton blended yarns are investigated. In order to see the differences and similarities, the results are then compared with those for similar fabrics knitted from 50/50 conventional viscose/cotton and 50/50 modal/cotton blended yarns. Each fabric type was produced with three different stitch lengths. After all fabrics were dyed under identical dyeing conditions, they were subjected to dry and full relaxation treatments. For dimensional properties of fabrics, course, wale and stitch densities were measured. Then, by calculating statistically best-fit lines passing both through the experimental points and the origin, dimensional constants i.e. k values were predicted in terms of the fiber types. The result show that each fabric type knitted from bamboo/cotton, viscose/cotton and modal/cotton blended yarns behaves in a similar manner. However, in both dry and fully relaxed states, the modal/cotton knitted fabrics tend to have slightly higher k values than the bamboo/cotton and viscose/cotton knitted fabrics. For physical properties, fabric weight per unit area, thickness, bursting strength, air permeability and pilling were evaluated. The results show that the weight, thickness and air permeability values are independent of the fiber type. Plain knitted fabrics from modal/cotton blended yarns have the highest bursting strength values. Plain knitted fabrics from bamboo/cotton blended yarns tend to pill less.     

Investigation and modeling of air permeability of Cotton/Polyester blended double layer interlock knitted fabrics

The aim of this study was to analyze and model the effect of knitting parameters on the air permeability of Cotton/Polyester double layer interlock knitted fabrics. Fabric samples of areal densities ranging from 315–488 g/m² were knitted using yarns of three different cotton/polyester blends, each of two different linear densities by systematically varying knitting loop lengths for achieving different cover factors. It was found that by changing the polyester content in the inner and outer fabric layer from 52 to 65 % in the double layer knitted fabric did not have statistically significant effect on the fabric air permeability. Air permeability sharply increased with increase in knitting loop length owing to decrease in fabric areal density. Decrease in yarn linear density (tex) resulted in increase in air permeability due to decrease in areal density as well as the fabric thickness. It was concluded that response surface regression modeling could adequately model the effect of knitting parameters on the double layer knitted fabric air permeability. The model was validated by unseen data set and it was found that the actual and predicted values were in good agreement with each other with less than 10 % absolute error. Sensitivity analysis was also performed to find out the relative contribution of each input parameter on the air permeability of the double layer interlock knitted fabrics.     

Dimensional stability of single jersey fabrics of lincLITE® and conventional yarns. II. Fabric dimensional changes

Dimensional changes of single jersey fabrics made from LincLITE® and conventional yarns (39 tex and 48 tex) with different twist factors and fabric tightness factors are investigated under dry-, steam- and full- relaxation treatments. Results showed that linear and area shrinkages, fabric density and stitch density values were affected by tightness factors, relaxation treatment, yarn twist and feeder blending. Generally, higher length shrinkages and width increases were reported with LincLITE® and conventional fabrics. Tightness factors and twist factors significantly affected LincLITE® and insignificantly affected conventional fabrics in concern of change of shape and area shrinkages. Thus, fabric density values and reciprocal of stitch lengths showed linear correlations with intercepts, which decreased on full relaxation. Also, it showed higher regression correlation coefficient factors from LincLITE® and conventional fabrics.     

Dimensional,physical and thermal properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 50/50 blend of modal viscose fiber in microfiber form with cotton fiber

In this study, the dimensional, physical and thermal comfort properties of the plain knitted fabrics made from 50/50 blend of modal viscose fiber in microfiber form with cotton fiber are compared with those of the similar fabrics made from 50/50 blend of conventional modal viscose fiber with cotton fiber and made from 100 % cotton fiber. All the fabric types are produced in three different stitch lengths. The slight differences among the fabric types are observed in terms of the stitch density results and the dimensional constants calculated in the fully relaxed state. In the fully relaxed state, the dimensional K values of the modal microfiber blended knitted fabrics are found to be more closely resemble those of the cotton fabrics rather than those of the conventional modal fiber blended fabrics. The lowest fabric thickness and bursting strength results are obtained for the modal microfiber blended fabrics. The modal microfiber blended fabrics reveal lower air permeability than the conventional modal fiber blended fabrics and higher air permeability than the cotton fabrics. It is also observed from the thermal comfort results that the modal microfiber blended fabrics have the lowest thermal resistance and the highest thermal absoptivity values. The thermal conductivity results of the modal microfiber blended fabrics are lower than those of the cotton fabrics and higher than those of the conventional modal fiber blended fabrics. Because of the highest thermal absorptivity values, the modal microfiber blended fabrics provide the coolest feeling when compared with the other two fabric types.     

Changes in a knitted fabric’s surface properties due to enzyme treatments

Enzyme treatment technologies in textile processing have become commonly-applied techniques for the modification of fabric-handle appearance, and other surface and mechanical characteristics of fabrics. Most studies have focused on understanding the impact of enzyme treatments on the fabric preparation, dyeing, and finishing processes of woven fabrics, whilst only limited research has been reported regarding any enzymatic effects on the surface and handproperties of knitted fabrics. The aim of this study was to analyze the effects of two different enzymes Trichoderma reesei whole cellulase, and enriched (EGIII) endoglucanase cellulase, at three different enzyme dosages on 100 % cotton interlock knitted fabric. This was in order to evaluate certain surface properties such as pilling, friction. and geometrical roughness. Furthermore, the compression and tactile properties of knitted fabric were also analyzed. The results show that treatment conditions with enzyme Trichoderma reesei whole cellulase had the more pronounced effect on the surface properties compared to the enriched EGIII enzymes. In general, it can be concluded that both types of enzymes improved the surface properties and hand when compared with the silicone softener-treated reference sample of interlock knitted fabric, as is statistically confirmed by one-way analysis of variance.     

Compression properties of weft knitted fabrics consisting of shrinkable and non-shrinkable acrylic fibers

High-bulk worsted yarns with different shrinkable and non-shrinkable acrylic fibers blend ratios are produced and then single jersey weft knitted fabrics with three different structures and loop lengths are constructed. The physical properties of produced yarns and compression properties of produced fabrics at eight pressure values (50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, 1500 and 2000 g/cm²) were measured using a conventional fabric thickness tester. Then, weft-knitted fabric compression behavior was analyzed using a two parameters model. It is found that at 40% shrinkable fibre blending ratio the maximum yarn bulk, shrinkage, abrasion resistance and minimum yarn strength are obtained. It is also shown that high-bulk acrylic yarn has the highest elongation at 20% shrinkable fibre blend ratio. The statistical regression analysis revealed that the compression behavior of acrylic weft-knitted fabrics is highly closed to two parameter model proposed for woven fabrics. It is also shown that for weft-knitted structure, there is an incompressible layer (V′) which resists against high compression load. Acrylic weft-knitted fabrics with knit-tuck structure exhibit higher compression rigidity and lower softness than the plain and knitmiss structures. In addition, at 20% shrinkable fibre blend ratio, the high-bulk acrylic weft-knitted fabrics are highly compressible.     

The effects of some machine parameters on the spirality in single jersey fabrics

In this work, the effects of machine parameters on the fabric spirality, which is an important quality problem of single jersey knitted fabrics, are investigated. For this aim, two circular knitting machines with the same gauge, but one of them revolving in the reverse direction, are chosen. Single jersey fabric samples with the same weight per square meter and the same yarn count (Ne 20 Cotton) are knitted on the chosen machines at four different numbers of knitting systems. The effects of the number of the knitting systems and the rotation directions of the machines on the spirality angles are investigated.     

Predicting properties of single jersey fabrics using regression and artificial neural network models

In our previous works, we had predicted cotton ring yarn properties from the fiber properties successfully by regression and ANN models. In this study both regression and artificial neural network has been applied for the prediction of the bursting strength and air permeability of single jersey knitted fabrics. Fiber properties measured by HVI instrument and yarn properties were selected as independent variables together with wales’ and courses’ number per square centimeter. Firstly conventional ring yarns were produced from six different types of cotton in four different yarn counts (Ne 20, Ne 25, Ne 30, and Ne 35) and three different twist multipliers (α _e 3.8, α _e 4.2, and α _e 4.6). All the yarns were knitted by laboratory circular knitting machine. Regression and ANN models were developed to predict the fabric properties. It was found that all models can be used to predict the single jersey fabric properties successfully. However, ANN models exhibit higher predictive power than the regression models.     

A novel method based on loop shape for simulating knitted fabric using mass spring model

Fabric simulation is result of combining various methods that have been dramatically evolved during the decade. However, there still exist some limitations. One of the limitations in fabric simulation is lack of using fabric properties such as material, weave structure, density and so on in mass spring modeling. In knitted fabrics, this issue is more important due to their different fabric structures. In this paper, a new mesh based on loop shape for simulating 1×1 rib fabric is proposed which is called Loop mesh. By using the Loop and common meshes, 3D model of drape behavior in 18 types of knitted fabric are simulated. Results of simulation are compared with 3D shape of actual drape behavior in fabric samples which are achieved by depth camera. Results show that the Loop mesh is able to predict the drape behavior of knitted fabric with error value of 5 percent as compared with the real result. It can be found that the Loop mesh produced a closest drape shape to the actual fabric drape than other mesh models.     

The Effects of Fabric and Conductive Wire Properties on Electromagnetic Shielding Effectiveness and Surface Resistivity of Interlock Knitted Fabrics

Our aim in this study was to investigate the effects of course density, yarn linear density and thickness and type of conductive wire on electromagnetic shielding effectiveness. Metal/cotton conductive composite yarns were produced by the core-spun technique on the ring spinning machine, involving stainless steel, copper and silver coated copper wires with 40 μm, 50 μm, 60 μm thicknesses and Ne10/1 and Ne20/1 count yarns. The interlock fabrics were knitted on a 7G flat knitting machine with the three different machine settings. The EMSE and the surface resistivity of knitted fabrics were measured by the co-axial transmission line method according to the ASTM-D4935-10 standard in the frequency range from 15 to 3000 MHz and by the ASTM D257-07 standard, respectively. It was observed that all fabrics shielded around 95 % of electromagnetic waves at low frequencies, 80 % at medium frequencies and 70 % at high frequencies. Increasing the course density and thickness of conductive wire in interlock knitted fabrics increased the EMSE correspondingly. The knitted fabrics that had been produced with high yarn count showed greater EMSE because there was less isolation. The effect of the metal wire type was highly significant between 15 and 600 MHz.     

Effect of finishing treatments on heat resistance of one- and two-layered fabrics

A series of cotton knitted fabrics was produced and finished according to three different recipes in order to compare the changes of their heat resistances. The heat resistance was measured using the sweating guarded hotplate. Measurements were carried out on one layer of produced knitted fabrics, as well as on two layers of fabrics. The results indicated significant influence of all carried finishing treatments to the decrease of heat resistance of knitted fabrics. It was shown that the high influence of finishing treatment to the total heat transfer trough fabric remains if the fabric is worn with additional knitted fabric layer. The presented results and performed statistical analysis indicated significant effect of finishing treatments to the changes of fabric parameters and furthermore to the changes of heat resistance what directly affects the total thermophysiological comfort of knitwear.     

Pull-out properties of polyester woven fabrics: Effects of softening agent and interlacement on single and multiple yarn pull-out forces and analysis by statistical model

The aim of this study was to understand the effects of softening treatment on pull-out properties of plain, ribs and satin fabrics. Polyester woven fabrics were used to conduct the pull-out tests. Data generated from these tests included pullout force, crimp extension and fabric displacement. A developed yarn pull-out fixture was used to perform single and multiple pull-out tests on treated and untreated polyester fabrics. Yarn pull-out forces depend on fabric treatments, fabric density, fabric weave, and the number of pulled ends in the fabric. The results of regression model showed that multiple and single yarn pull-out forces of treated fabrics were lower than those of untreated fabrics. The multiple yarn pull-out force was higher than that of the single yarn pull-out force, and that dense fabric had a high pull-out force. Treated and untreated plain fabrics had high single and multiple pull-out forces compared to those of treated and untreated ribs and satin fabrics. Yarn crimp extension depends on directional crimp ratios in the fabric and the number of pulled yarn ends. High directional crimp ratio fabric showed high directional yarn crimp extension. Fabric displacement depends on the number of pulled yarn ends and also fabric treatments. Fabric displacement in multiple pull-out tests showed high fabric displacement compared to that of single pull-out tests. On the other hand, the regression model could be used in this study as a viable and reliable tool.     

Comparative study of cellulase treatment on low stress mechanical properties of cotton denim fabric made by torque-free ring spun yarn

Cellulase is useful for bio-polishing cotton fabrics which enhances their aesthetic performance instead of stonewashing process. Torque-free ring spun process is a widely used technique to produce newly low-twist and balanced torque yarns with soft hand. In this paper, denim fabrics woven with torque-free ring spun yarn and conventional ring spun yarn respectively were treated with cellulase under the same condition and their fabric handle, expressed as low stress mechanical properties, such as tensile strength, bending, shearing, compression and surface performance were investigated by Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F). After cellulase treatment, both denim fabrics revealed better flexibility, elasticity recovery, raised shearing stiffness, fluffier and improved smoothness. While torque-free ring spun yarn made denim fabric showed a better fabric handle than conventional ring spun yarn made denim fabric.     

Physical and comfort properties of the hoisery knit product containing intermingled nylon elastomeric yarn

There are several studies related with knitted fabric containing elastomeric yarn. These studies have been carried out only on fabrics containing naked elastomeric yarn, i.e., without intermingling. And most of them have focused on dimensional and extension-recovery properties of the fabric. Of course, intermingling yarn parameters such as number of knots and draw-ratio will affect the properties and performance of the fabrics. This paper presents a study about the effect of draw-ratio and number of knots, which are important parameters in intermingled nylon-elastomeric yarns, on the physical and comfort properties of hosiery knit products. To see the relationship and significance, bivariate correlation analysis and analysis of variance have been carried out. It has been seen that increase of draw ratio and number of knots lead to an increase in dimensional change, stitch density, fabric weight, and lead to a decrease in fabric spirality, abrasion, fabric wicking (wickability in course direction is less than that of wale direction). Fabric thickness increases with an increase in draw ratio and a decrease in number of knots. The number of knots and the draw-ratio do not affect the fabric drying rate. However, an increase in the draw ratio and the number of knots result in an increase in initial water content before beginning the drying process. But, an increase in initial water content is not so high as to affect the drying rate.     

Effect of ultrasonic laundering on thermophysiological properties of knitted fabrics

The paper focuses on the application of ultrasonic energy in textile laundering. In recent years, there has been an increasing interest in ultrasonic energy application in textile industry; however, the effect of ultrasonic laundering on the thermophysiological properties of knitted fabrics has not been studied yet. This study was conducted by using polylactic acid (PLA), cotton, polyethylene terephthalate (PET), and poly acrylic (PAC) fibres containing yarns and their blends. Knitted fabrics, single pique, were made from these yarns by using weft knitting machine. The fabrics were washed ten times for 15 and 60 minutes under 40 °C by using conventional and ultrasonic washing methods. The main aim was to determine the effect of washing methods on the thermophysiological properties of the fabrics. It is also aimed to analyse and evaluate the thermophysiological properties of the PLA fabrics. The incorporation of 100 % PLA and cotton/PLA yarns into single pique knitted fabrics has been attempted to produce for the first time and studied their thermal comfort properties. The results show that the washing processes have a critical importance for the tested fabrics in terms of thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, thermal absorbtivity, water vapour permeability, and heat loss. It has been also demonstrated that the fabric cleaning by using ultrasonic method enhanced the properties of tested fabrics such as thermal conductivity and % recovery. It was also noted that 15 minutes ultrasonically washed fabrics had significantly lower thermal resistance as compared to conventionally washed fabrics.     

Dimensional,physical and thermal comfort properties of plain knitted fabrics made from modal viscose yarns having microfibers and conventional fibers

The dimensional, some physical and thermal comfort properties of the plain knitted fabrics having modal viscose microfibers in three different stitch lengths are investigated in comparison with the similar fabrics having conventional modal viscose fibers. The fabrics made from microfibers and conventional fibers exhibit different dimensional properties. The stitch density results and the dimensional constants calculated at the fully relaxed state reveal that the fabrics with microfibers tend to have lower shrinkage tendency than those with conventional fibers. The statistical results show that the fiber type (or fiber fineness) and the stitch length affect the some physical properties and all of the thermal comfort properties of the fabrics significantly. The bursting strength values of the fabrics with microfibers are observed to be slightly higher than those of the fabrics with conventional fibers. However, the difference between the bursting strength values of these fabrics is found to be statistically unimportant. The fabrics with microfibers reveal lower thickness and air permeability and, higher pilling tendency than those with conventional fibers. It is also observed from the thermal comfort results that the fabrics made from microfibers have higher thermal conductivity, thermal absorptivity and maximum heat flux values and, lower thermal resistance and thermal diffusivity values. Because of the higher thermal absorptivity and maximum heat flux values, the fabrics from microfibers provide cooler feeling when compared with those from conventional fibers.