Pull-out properties of polyester woven fabrics: Effects of softening agent and interlacement on single and multiple yarn pull-out forces and analysis by statistical model

The aim of this study was to understand the effects of softening treatment on pull-out properties of plain, ribs and satin fabrics. Polyester woven fabrics were used to conduct the pull-out tests. Data generated from these tests included pullout force, crimp extension and fabric displacement. A developed yarn pull-out fixture was used to perform single and multiple pull-out tests on treated and untreated polyester fabrics. Yarn pull-out forces depend on fabric treatments, fabric density, fabric weave, and the number of pulled ends in the fabric. The results of regression model showed that multiple and single yarn pull-out forces of treated fabrics were lower than those of untreated fabrics. The multiple yarn pull-out force was higher than that of the single yarn pull-out force, and that dense fabric had a high pull-out force. Treated and untreated plain fabrics had high single and multiple pull-out forces compared to those of treated and untreated ribs and satin fabrics. Yarn crimp extension depends on directional crimp ratios in the fabric and the number of pulled yarn ends. High directional crimp ratio fabric showed high directional yarn crimp extension. Fabric displacement depends on the number of pulled yarn ends and also fabric treatments. Fabric displacement in multiple pull-out tests showed high fabric displacement compared to that of single pull-out tests. On the other hand, the regression model could be used in this study as a viable and reliable tool.     

Characterizations of stick-slip stage of yarn pull-out in dry and softening treated polyester plain woven fabric

The aim of this study was to understand the stick-slip properties of polyester plain woven fabric. For this reason, pull-out test was conducted on dry and softening treated polyester woven fabrics. It was found that stick-slip force and accumulative retraction force depend on the number of pulled ends in the fabric, fabric sample dimensions and softening treatments. Stick-slip forces of polyester fabric in the multiple yarn pull-out test were higher than those of the single yarn pull-out test. Stick-slip force in single and multiple yarn pull-out tests in the dry polyester plain fabric were generally higher than those of the softening treated polyester plain fabric. On the other hand, the amount of stick-slip force was related to the number of interlacement points in the fabric whereas the amount of accumulative retraction force was related to fabric structural response.     

Properties of stick-slip stage of yarn pull-out in para-aramid woven fabric

The aim of this study was to understand stick-slip properties of para-aramid woven fabrics. For this reason, pullout test was conducted on para-aramid Kevlar®29 and Kevlar®129 woven fabrics. The stick-slip and accumulative retraction force regions were defined based on the force-displacement curve. It was found that the stick-slip force and accumulative retraction force depended on fabric density and the number of pulled ends in the fabric. Stick-slip force in the multiple yarn pull-out test was higher than those of the single yarn pull-out test. Stick-slip force in single and multiple yarn pull-out tests in the dense K29 fabric were higher than those of the loose K129 fabric. In addition, long fabric samples showed high stick-slip force compared to that of the short fabric samples. On the other hand, the amount of stick-slip force was related to the number of interlacement points in the fabric whereas the amount of accumulative retraction force was related to fabric structural response.     

Handle,fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn woven stretch fabrics

Hybrid yarn was produced by twisting silk with nylon covered lycra yarn. Silk of 20 D in warp and hybrid yarn in weft was woven to develop lustrous woven stretch fabrics for sari blouse. Silk and hybrid yarn fabrics were produced in three different weaves namely plain, crepe and sateen. An in-depth study was carried out to understand the effect of weave on thermal comfort; low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties. Nine blouses (3 samples× 3 figures) were constructed from three different woven stretch materials for fit assessment and objective pressure comfort test. The effect of fabric weave, low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties on fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabrics were analyzed. Sateen weave silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabric shows higher total hand value, stretch properties and better thermal comfort properties. Sateen and crepe weave stretch fabrics provided good fit. Sateen weave fabric exerted lower clothing pressure value in the range of 3-12 mmHg at all body locations in standing position and in different postures.     

Determination of para-aramid single fabric shear by yarn pull-out and analysis by statistical model

The aim of this study was to determine the para-aramid fabric shear by the pull-out method. The fabric sample dimensions and the number of pull-out ends were identified as important parameters. Fabric shear depended on fabric density. Fabric shear strength increased when the number of pulled ends increased. When the fabric length increased, fabric shear strength generally increased. The number of pulled ends and the fabric sample dimensions influenced the fabric shear rigidity. Shear jamming angles were found based on the number of pulled ends. The results showed that para-aramid fabric shear could be measured by yarn pull-out test.     

The effect of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness of polyester fabrics

The effects of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness values of textured polyester woven fabrics with different constructional parameters were investigated. The warp yarn properties (type, count and warp density) were kept constant while the effect of variation in weft yarn density and weave pattern were studied. Measurements were conducted on pre-treated white fabric samples and the results assessed in relation to their constructional properties. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness values of polyester fabrics affected by fabric balance and fabric cover and the effects were related to fabric thickness, yarn densities, yarn crimp, positioning of yarns in fabric structure. A change in weave pattern from sateen to plain increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased the surface roughness. Similarly, an increase in weft density increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased surface roughness. In order to produce fabrics with smooth surface properties yarn density should be increased, yarn float lengths decreased, cover of fabrics increased and fabric balance improved.     

Analysis and in-plane shear characterization of polyester plain fabric by yarn pull-out method

The aim of this study was to determine the in-plane shear properties of polyester fabric by the pull-out method and analytical relations were developed to calculate the shearing properties. After the yarn in the fabric was pulled from the top ravel region before the start of the crimp extension stage, it was found that fabric shear strength and rigidity increased when the number of pulled ends increased. In addition, when the fabric width and length increased, fabric shear strength and rigidity increased. On the other hand, the shear strength and rigidity values in untreated fabric were high compared to that of treated fabric due to the fabric treatments by softening agent. It was observed that fabric sample dimensions and the number of pull-out ends as well as the fabric treatments influenced fabric shear strength and rigidity. Also, the shear jamming angles were found to be based on the number of pulled ends. Fabric local shearing properties could be identified by pulling the yarn ends in various regions of the fabric. This could be important for the handling of the fabric during formation. The results generated from this study showed that polyester fabric shear could be measured by the yarn pull-out test.     

Prediction of the fabric’s crease recovery property with Taguchi design of experiment

The creasing characteristic of fabrics is affected by many factors like yarn twist, fabric density, fabric constructions, fabric thickness apart from the fiber type. In the first part of this study, the effect of yarn fineness, yarn twist, fabric tightness and weave construction factors on crease recovery was studied. In the second part of the study, in order to improve the creasing recovery of the fabrics, shape memory alloy (SMA) wires were used and the effect of shape memory alloy (SMA) wire on the crease recovery of cotton fabrics produced with different types of weave constructions were determined. Due to the high cost of SMA wire and the weaving operation adversity the two experimental plans were designed according to Taguchi design of experiment (TDOE). From the analysis of the first part, it was found that the yarn linear density had the greatest effect on fabric crease recovery compare to others. Twist coefficient was the second, weft density was third and the weave construction had the least significant effect on the crease recovery. The fabrics produced with coarser and low twisted yarns with high tightness and longer floats in the weave construction have higher crease recovery property. In the second part of the study, the application of the SMA wire significantly increased the crease recovery angle of the fabrics. The thickness of the SMA wire is very important and the effect depends on the wire thickness. The increase of the SMA wire thickness increases the crease recovery significantly. However it must be appropriate with the yarn and fabric properties. The distance between the SMA wire distances was expected to increase the crease recovery however the effect was found not significant. The fabrics produced with coarser yarns with longer floats in the weave construction have higher crease recovery property. However, statistically the effects of these parameters were found not significant due to the dominant effect of the wire thickness.     

Photoilluminance of different woven structures by treatment with phosphorescent pigment

The work is focused on study of photoilluminance of woven fabrics. Plain, twill, and matt woven structures are investigated after application of the phosphorescent agent. Samples were kept under observation for different periods of time in completely sealed box where light couldn’t enter from any side. Lux meter was used to measure the intensity of light. As the charging time increases, glowing time also increases and the weave structure having greater capacity to absorb light radiations from the source, glows for a longer duration of time. The weave having larger number of intersections facilitates greater absorption of light photons and the weaves having relatively lower number of intersections have a smaller capacity to absorb light radiations. Longer yarn floats in the fabric, tend to reflect higher portion of light, which in turn causes less charging of the phosphorescent fabric. Thus a shorter glow time is observed. Tensile and tear strength was mesaured for all fabric samples before and after application of phosphorescent pigment so as to observe the effect of treatment on mechanical properties.     

Electromagnetic interference shielding effectiveness of SS/PET hybrid yarn incorporated woven fabrics

A detailed study of electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMSE) of woven fabrics made of polyester and stainless steel/polyester blended conductive yarn was presented in this research work. Fabrics with different structures were analyzed and their shielding behavior was reported under different frequencies. Shielding efficiency of fabric was analyzed by vector network analyzer in the frequency range of 300 kHz to 1.5 GHz using coaxial transmission line holder. The effects of different fabric parameters such as weft density, proportion of conductive weft yarn, proportion of stainless steel content, grid openness, weave pattern and number of fabric layers on EMSE of fabrics were studied. The EMSE of fabric was found to be increased with increase in proportion of conductive yarn in the weft way. With increase in overall stainless-steel content in the fabric, the EMSE of fabric was increased. As such weave is considered, it did not have significant effect on EMSE of fabrics. But fabric with lower openness and aperture ratio showed better conducting network, hence better shielding. With increase in number of layers of fabric and ply yarns, EMSE of fabric was increased.     

Assessment of color strength and color difference values of polyester fabrics containing continuous weft yarns after abrasion

This paper assesses the color difference and color strength values (K/S) obtained for eight disperse-dyed polyester fabric samples with different fabric construction parameters (weft yarn type, weft yarn count, weft density and fabric weave) after four sets of abrasion cycles. Warp yarn type and count, warp density, and warp yarn twist are the same for all fabrics. Fabric samples are dyed in a commercial red disperse dye (C.I. Disperse Red 74:1) and four different abrasion cycles (2500, 5000, 7500, 10000) are used. TheK/S values of the abraided fabrics and color difference values between the control fabric (dyed but not abraided) and abraded fabrics are calculated. The main differences in theK/S and color difference values are observed between 0–2500 abrasion cycles. The high tenacity of the polyester fibers and continuous polyester yarns causes some fuzz but no pilling formation on the fabric surface that lead to increasedK/S values and color differences. Fiber dullness, yarn thickness, yarn density and fabric weave are concluded to have different effects on the appearance after abrasion.     

Assessing the relationship among fabric constructional parameters, fractional reflectances and cover factors of polyester fabrics by experimental and mathematical methods

This paper focuses on the assessment of the relation among constructional properties, fractional reflectances and cover factors of fabrics woven from polyester yarns. A novel equation for the calculation of the relation between fractional reflectance and fabric cover factor was proposed and the usage of the equation was assessed by reflectance measurements. 48 polyester fabrics having different constructional parameters were used and the fabrics differed from each other by their cover factors. The warp yarn type and count, warp density and warp yarn twist were the same but weft yarn count, weft yarn fiber count and weft density were different for the fabrics in the experimental sub-groups. The reflectance measurements were conducted on the pretreated but undyed fabric samples as well as on the individual yarn systems of the same fabrics. Fabrics with the same cover factors exhibited different fractional reflectances. Reflectances were found to be dependent on the cover factor as well as on yarn fiber fineness, yarn count, yarn density and fabric weave. The changes in crimp of the yarns according to different construction parameters also governed the changes in fractional reflectances of fabric surfaces. The proposed equation was tested according to different fabric construction parameters and it was concluded that fiber fineness and weave pattern were among the most important parameters which govern the total light reflectances from the fabric surfaces, although they are not incorporated in the calculation of the fabric cover factors. The proposed equation was used to explain the effects of these components on the reflectance behavior of the fabric surfaces and on fabric cover.     

Weavability limit of yarns with thickness variation in shuttleless weaving

Theoretical weavability limit relationships of fabrics from regular warp yarns and fancy filling yarns with thickness variation in shuttleless weaving are reviewed. The relationships correlate maximum warp and filling cover factors, warp and filling yarn characteristics, the distribution of thick and thin places of filling yarn over the fabric surface, and the warp and filling weave factor. The research considers single filling feeder and multiple feeders cases. Additionally, comparisons between the weavability limit of regular yarns and fancy yarns in shuttle and shuttleless weaving are given.     

A new approach for numerical identification of bending behavior of plain woven fabric

There is a variety of approaches for investigating bending behavior of woven fabrics. Some of them are based on fabric deformation with one edge fixed; the others are based on measurement of force, moment or energy producing bending deformation. In all methods, bending properties is acquired after testing prepared fabric samples. Therefore, in this work an attempt is made by a mechanical model and a novel calculation technique to determine bending characteristics of the plain woven fabrics before sample production. Theoretical data including bending length, bending rigidity and bending modulus were directly determined for supposed fabric samples with a given yarn count and yarn density using Peirce’s structural model for plain woven fabric and a especial code written in Maple12. Besides, fabric samples with the defined characteristics were woven on a Sulzer-Ruti weaving machine. Then, these fabrics were tested for bending behavior using Shirley bending tester. Comparison showed good agreement between predicted and measured bending characteristics of the fabrics. However, theoretical bending rigidities of the samples were more than experimental values.     

Simulation of the weave structural design of synthetic woven fabrics

This study surveys the basic procedure of data base system of the fabric structural design which can be linked with existing pattern design and garment design CAD systems. For this purpose, the theoretical and empirical equations related to the fabric structural design are analyzed and discussed with various fabric specimens. The fabric structural parameters such as weave density coefficient, cover factor and yarn density coefficient of various kinds of fabrics are calculated using the empirical equations. These calculated fabric structural parameters of many kinds of polyester and nylon fabrics are compared and discussed with weave pattern, and materials such as polyester and nylon. Furthermore the difference between fabric structural parameters calculated by empirical equations are analyzed with polyester and nylon fabrics as a basic study for data base system of the fabric structural design. Finally, the weave density coefficients of polyester and nylon fabrics were analysed and discussed with shrinkages of dyeing and finishing processes, and also surveyed according to the weaving company and weave structural parameters such as weave pattern and denier.     

Enhanced visualization of simulated woven fabrics

The woven fabric graphics designed with available computer aided design (CAD) systems using different colored warp and weft yarns look quite different from the appearance of their actual fabrics. To enhance the visual effects of designed woven fabric graphics, this paper reports a modified CAD woven fabric system, which allows users to design a fabric using parameters including fabric weaves, yarn number, yarn material, fabric count, crimp shape of interwoven yarns, and illumination. This enhanced system can design both yarns and fabrics, and consider the transitional color effect around interweaving points of warp and weft yarns. Its simulation image quality of woven fabrics has been greatly improved, and several textile mills and universities are currently using this woven fabric design system.     

A general geometrical model for predicting color mixing of woven fabrics from colored warp and filling yarns

Despite the advances in woven fabrics, CAD systems, and weaving technologies, the process of weave/color selection for each area of a Jacquard pattern still requires the intervention of the CAD system operator and/or designer, who works from color gamut. Relying on the designer subjective assessment, multiple weaving trials may be needed to produce a fabric that matches the target artwork or sample. In this paper, a general geometric model is provided to predict the color contribution of warp and filling yarns of a given woven fabric in terms of warp and pick densities, warp and filling yarns sizes, weave, size of the color repeat of warp and filling yarns, and the number of yarns of different colors. Such geometrical modeling, combined with sound existing color mixing equations, paves the road for the automation of the process of weaves and color selection and thus dramatically reduces the production cycle.     

Influence of the deformation mode on seam slippage in woven fabrics

In the present study the influence of the deformation mode, of the specimen elongation deformation, of the fabrics?? weave type, of fabrics?? direction and of the position of seam allowances in respect to the stitching line on the seam slippage in the raw plain, twill and combined-twill weave fabrics was investigated. Fabrics were woven with the warp yarn of 20×2 tex 70 % cotton and 30 % PES blended 2-ply spun yarn and the weft yarn of 18 tex 100 % PES folded multifilament yarn using jacquard weaving machine ??Lindaucer DORNER GmbH??. Seam slippage of the investigated woven fabrics was determined using the new simple and compact technical device suitable to test fabrics for seam slippage property within five different deformation modes: an uniaxial tension of seams with opened seam allowances on the surface of metal table; an uniaxial tension of seams with bent to one side allowances in respect to stitching line on the surface of the metal table; an unrestricted uniaxial tension of seams; a bagging of seams with bent to one side allowances in respect to the stitching line using the plastic hollow cylinder; a bagging of seams with opened seam allowances using the plastic hollow cylinder. The results of the research had proved that seam slippage of the investigated woven fabrics was dependent on the deformation mode, on the elongation of sewn specimens, on the location of allowances in respect to the stitching line, on the fabric weave type as well as on the woven fabric direction.     

Predicting bending rigidity of woven fabrics using artificial neural networks

This paper reports an investigation on the predictability of bending property of woven fabrics from their constructional parameters using artificial neural network (ANN) approach. Number of cotton grey fabrics made of plain and satin weave designs were desized, scoured, and relaxed. The fabrics were then conditioned and tested for bending properties. Thread density in fabric, yarn linear density, twist in yarn, and weave design were accounted as input parameters for the model whereas bending rigidity in warp and weft directions of fabric formed the outputs. Gradient descent with momentum and an adaptive learning rate back-propagation was employed as learning algorithm to train the network. A sensitivity analysis was carried out to study the robustness of the model.     

A comparative study of finer conventional and modified cotton yarns and their resultant woven fabrics

A modified ring spinning technique has been recently developed by incorporating false twisting devices into the conventional ring frame. Its application on the coarser yarn counts (7–32 Ne) showed notable advantages in modified yarn and fabric performance. More recently, it was noted that this technique can also be applied for producing finer cotton yarns. Thus this paper aims to carry out a systematic study of the physical properties of the finer modified yarns (80 Ne) and woven fabrics with respect to the conventional ones. Physical properties of conventional and modified single yarns were evaluated and compared. These two types of single yarn were used for the production of woven fabrics. Moreover, the above two types of single yarn were also plied and used for the production of woven fabrics under a commercial condition. All woven fabrics were assessed in terms of fabric tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, fabric weight, and air-permeability as well as other fabric performance measured by the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES). Experimental results showed that finer modified yarns and fabrics exhibit higher strength, lower hairiness, and improved abrasion resistance, slightly better compression property, and smoother surface with relatively larger thickness.