Astaxanthin Delivery Systems for Skin Application: A Review

Astaxanthin (AST) is a biomolecule known for its powerful antioxidant effect, which is considered of great importance in biochemical research and has great potential for application in cosmetics, as well as food products that are beneficial to human health and medicines. Unfortunately, its poor solubility in water, chemical instability, and low oral bioavailability make its applications in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical field a major challenge for the development of new products. To favor the search for alternatives to enhance and make possible the use of AST in formulations, this article aimed to review the scientific data on its application in delivery systems. The search was made in databases without time restriction, using keywords such as astaxanthin, delivery systems, skin, cosmetic, topical, and dermal. All delivery systems found, such as liposomes, particulate systems, inclusion complexes, emulsions, and films, presented peculiar advantages able to enhance AST properties, among which are stability, antioxidant potential, biological activities, and drug release. This survey showed that further studies are needed for the industrial development of new AST-containing cosmetics and topical formulations.     

Applicability of lignins from different sources as antioxidants based on the protective effects on lipid peroxidation induced by oxygen radicals

Increasing evidence suggest that excessive concentrations of reactive oxygen species in the human body are involved in a number of pathological events and that oxidative damage to cell components may play an important pathophysiological role in many types of human diseases. Several studies have shown the possible benefits of antioxidants from plant sources in altering, reversing or forestalling the negative effects of oxidative stress.The study was designed to evaluate whether lignins prevent H₂O₂-induced lipid peroxidation. The protective effect of industrial lignins obtained from different sources against hydrogen peroxide induced oxidation was investigated in normal human red blood cells (RBCs). RBCs, preincubated with different amounts of lignins and challenged with hydrogen peroxide were analyzed for lipid peroxidation. The high molecular weight can be considered as one of the main factors decreasing the radical scavenging activity. When comparing different lignins the inhibitory effects against lipid peroxidation were notably related to their molecular weights. In this sense bagasse with the lowest Mn was the greatest antioxidant and lignosulfonate with the highest Mn was the lowest antioxidant lignin.These results open the possibility of new applications of lignins. The potential health benefits and industrial applications of lignins make them a promising research resource.     

Exploring the Potential of Icelandic Seaweeds Extracts Produced by Aqueous Pulsed Electric Fields-Assisted Extraction for Cosmetic Applications

A growing concern for overall health is driving a global market of natural ingredients not only in the food industry but also in the cosmetic field. In this study, a screening on potential cosmetic applications of aqueous extracts from three Icelandic seaweeds produced by pulsed electric fields (PEF) was performed. Produced extracts by PEF from Ulva lactuca, Alaria esculenta and Palmaria palmata were compared with the traditional hot water extraction in terms of polyphenol, flavonoid and carbohydrate content. Moreover, antioxidant properties and enzymatic inhibitory activities were evaluated by using in vitro assays. PEF exhibited similar results to the traditional method, showing several advantages such as its non-thermal nature and shorter extraction time. Amongst the three Icelandic species, Alaria esculenta showed the highest content of phenolic (mean value 8869.7 µg GAE/g dw) and flavonoid (mean value 12,098.7 µg QE/g dw) compounds, also exhibiting the highest antioxidant capacities. Moreover, Alaria esculenta extracts exhibited excellent anti-enzymatic activities (76.9, 72.8, 93.0 and 100% for collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase, respectively) for their use in skin whitening and anti-aging products. Thus, our preliminary study suggests that Icelandic Alaria esculenta-based extracts produced by PEF could be used as potential ingredients for natural cosmetic and cosmeceutical formulations.     

Carrageenan: Drug Delivery Systems and Other Biomedical Applications

Marine resources are today a renewable source of various compounds, such as polysaccharides, that are used in the pharmaceutical, medical, cosmetic, and food fields. In recent years, considerable attention has been focused on carrageenan-based biomaterials due to their multifunctional qualities, including biodegradability, biocompatibility, and non-toxicity, in addition to bioactive attributes, such as their antiviral, antibacterial, antihyperlipidemic, anticoagulant, antioxidant, antitumor, and immunomodulating properties. They have been applied in pharmaceutical formulations as both their bioactive and physicochemical properties make them suitable biomaterials for drug delivery, and recently for the development of tissue engineering. This article provides a review of recent research on the various types of carrageenan-based biomedical and pharmaceutical applications.     

An Overview of Potential Seaweed-Derived Bioactive Compounds for Pharmaceutical Applications

Nowadays, seaweeds are widely involved in biotechnological applications. Due to the variety of bioactive compounds in their composition, species of phylum Ochrophyta, class Phaeophyceae, phylum Rhodophyta and Chlorophyta are valuable for the food, cosmetic, pharmaceutical and nutraceutical industries. Seaweeds have been consumed as whole food since ancient times and used to treat several diseases, even though the mechanisms of action were unknown. During the last decades, research has demonstrated that those unique compounds express beneficial properties for human health. Each compound has peculiar properties (e.g., antioxidant, antimicrobial, antiviral activities, etc.) that can be exploited to enhance human health. Seaweed’s extracted polysaccharides are already involved in the pharmaceutical industry, with the aim of replacing synthetic compounds with components of natural origin. This review aims at a better understanding of the recent uses of algae in drug development, with the scope of replacing synthetic compounds and the multiple biotechnological applications that make up seaweed’s potential in industrial companies. Further research is needed to better understand the mechanisms of action of seaweed’s compounds and to embrace the use of seaweeds in pharmaceutical companies and other applications, with the final scope being to produce sustainable and healthier products.     

A comprehensive study of silicone-based cosmetic textile agent

In recent years, textile materials have also found applications in the cosmetic field as more and more commercial cosmetic textile agents are now available in the market. In this paper, one commercially available cosmetic textile agent (CTA) for skin caring benefits was used for making the cosmetic textiles. Systematic characterization methods were established to assess their performance in terms of material identification, fabric performance properties as well as biological safety and biological response to human skin. The experimental results showed that after the treatment of cosmetic textile agent, the fiber surface was covered with a thin layer of smooth material, thereby contributing several alterations to fabric properties and providing a better hand feel to human body. The durability of cosmetic textile was considerably satisfactory with respect to the abrasion resistance and washing cycles. The experimental results also illustrated that the cosmetic textiles might probably enhance the replacement of cells with the newly regenerated ones in the skin structure of human body, and thus provided a more efficient turning-over and replacement of skin components.     

Microalgae Encapsulation Systems for Food,Pharmaceutical and Cosmetics Applications

Microalgae are microorganisms with a singular biochemical composition, including several biologically active compounds with proven pharmacological activities, such as anticancer, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, among others. These properties make microalgae an interesting natural resource to be used as a functional ingredient, as well as in the prevention and treatment of diseases, or cosmetic formulations. Nevertheless, natural bioactives often possess inherent chemical instability and/or poor solubility, which are usually associated with low bioavailability. As such, their industrial potential as a health-promoting substance might be severely compromised. In this context, encapsulation systems are considered as a promising and emerging strategy to overcome these shortcomings due to the presence of a surrounding protective layer. Diverse systems have already been reported in the literature for natural bioactives, where some of them have been successfully applied to microalgae compounds. Therefore, this review focuses on exploring encapsulation systems for microalgae biomass, their extracts, or purified bioactives for food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic purposes. Moreover, this work also covers the most common encapsulation techniques and types of coating materials used, along with the main findings regarding the beneficial effects of these systems.     

From Sea to Skin: Is There a Future for Natural Photoprotectants?

In the last few decades, the thinning of the ozone layer due to increased atmospheric pollution has exacerbated the negative effects of excessive exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR), and skin cancer has become a major public health concern. In order to prevent skin damage, public health advice mainly focuses on the use of sunscreens, along with wearing protective clothing and avoiding sun exposure during peak hours. Sunscreens present on the market are topical formulations that contain a number of different synthetic, organic, and inorganic UVR filters with different absorbance profiles, which, when combined, provide broad UVR spectrum protection. However, increased evidence suggests that some of these compounds cause subtle damage to marine ecosystems. One alternative may be the use of natural products that are produced in a wide range of marine species and are mainly thought to act as a defense against UVR-mediated damage. However, their potential for human photoprotection is largely under-investigated. In this review, attention has been placed on the molecular strategies adopted by marine organisms to counteract UVR-induced negative effects and we provide a broad portrayal of the recent literature concerning marine-derived natural products having potential as natural sunscreens/photoprotectants for human skin. Their chemical structure, UVR absorption properties, and their pleiotropic role as bioactive molecules are discussed. Most studies strongly suggest that these natural products could be promising for use in biocompatible sunscreens and may represent an alternative eco-friendly approach to protect humans against UV-induced skin damage.     

Agarose Stearate-Carbomer940 as Stabilizer and Rheology Modifier for Surfactant-Free Cosmetic Formulations

Some commonly used surfactants in cosmetic products raise concerns due to their skin-irritating effects and environmental contamination. Multifunctional, high-performance polymers are good alternatives to overcome these problems. In this study, agarose stearate (AS) with emulsifying, thickening, and gel properties was synthesized. Surfactant-free cosmetic formulations were successfully prepared from AS and carbomer₉₄₀ (CBM₉₄₀) mixed systems. The correlation of rheological parameter with skin feeling was determined to study the usability of the mixed systems in cosmetics. Based on rheological analysis, the surfactant-free cosmetic cream (SFC) stabilized by AS-carbomer₉₄₀ showed shear-thinning behavior and strongly synergistic action. The SFC exhibited a gel-like behavior and had rheological properties similar to commercial cosmetic creams. Scanning electron microscope images proved that the AS-CBM₉₄₀ network played an important role in SFC’s stability. Oil content could reinforce the elastic characteristics of the AS-CBM₉₄₀ matrix. The SFCs showed a good appearance and sensation during and after rubbing into skin. The knowledge gained from this study may be useful for designing surfactant-free cosmetic cream with rheological properties that can be tailored for particular commercial cosmetic applications. They may also be useful for producing medicine products with highly viscous or gel-like textures, such as some ointments and wound dressings.     

Marine Ingredients for Sensitive Skin: Market Overview

Marine ingredients are a source of new chemical entities with biological action, which is the reason why they have gained relevance in the cosmetic industry. The facial care category is the most relevant in this industry, and within it, the sensitive skin segment occupies a prominent position. This work analyzed the use of marine ingredients in 88 facial cosmetics for sensitive skin from multinational brands, as well as their composition and the scientific evidence that supports their efficacy. Marine ingredients were used in 27% of the cosmetic products for sensitive skin and included the species Laminaria ochroleuca, Ascophyllum nodosum (brown macroalgae), Asparagopsis armata (red macroalgae), and Chlorella vulgaris (microalgae). Carotenoids, polysaccharides, and lipids are the chemical classes highlighted in these preparations. Two ingredients, namely the Ascophyllum nodosum extract and Asparagopsis armata extracts, present clinical evidence supporting their use for sensitive skin. Overall, marine ingredients used in cosmetics for sensitive skin are proposed to reduce skin inflammation and improve the barrier function. Marine-derived preparations constitute promising active ingredients for sensitive skin cosmetic products. Their in-depth study, focusing on the extracted metabolites, randomized placebo-controlled studies including volunteers with sensitive skin, and the use of extraction methods that are more profitable may provide a great opportunity for the cosmetic industry.     

Preparation,Optimization, and Investigation of Naringenin-Loaded Microemulsion for Topical Application

Background:Flavonoids are a large group of phenolic compounds possessing anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. NAR is a flavonoid with various pharmacological properties. Using pharmaceutical compounds on skin is one of the routes of administration to achieve local and systemic effects. The aim of this study was to develop a topical formulation of NAR by the preparation of a NAR ME, which was further tested its skin permeability in rats. Methods:Eight 0.5% NAR MEs were prepared by mixing appropriate amounts of surfactant (Tween 80 and Labrasol), cosurfactant (Capryol 90) and the oil phase (oleic acid-Transcutol P in a ratio of 1:10). The drug was dissolved in the oil phase. The physicochemical properties of MEs such as droplet size, viscosity, release, and skin permeability were assessed using Franz Cells diffusion. Results:Based on the results, the droplet size of MEs ranged between 5.07 and 35.15 nm, and their viscosity was 164-291 cps. Independent factors exhibited a strong relationship with both permeability and drop size. The permeability findings revealed that the diffusion coefficient of NAR by the ME carrier increased compared to the drug saturation solution. Conclusion: The most validated results were obtained for Jss and particle size. Optimal formulations containing MEs with Jss and particle sizes varying between minimum and maximum amounts are suitable for topical formulations of NAR. Key Words: Naringenin-Loaded Microemulsion, Topical Application, Treatment     

Cosmetic powder suspensions in compliant, fingerprintlike contacts

Cosmetic powders are regularly employed in skin creams and cosmetic formulations to improve performance and enhance skin feel. A previous study investigated the effect of particle concentration and size on the lubricating properties of powder suspensions in smooth, compliant contacts [Timm et al., Tribol. Int. (2011)]. In this paper the tribological properties of cosmetic powder suspensions are investigated in compliant contacts having model fingerprintlike surface topography. Friction coefficients were measured for a series of powder suspensions with varying particle size and concentration in a polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS)/PDMS contact. A commercial tribometer (MTM, PCS Instruments) was employed to measure friction as a function of rubbing time (20 min), under pure sliding (50 mm/s) and low load (0.5 N) conditions. Compared to results using smooth surfaces, it was clear that surface topography has a pronounced affect on the time-dependent tribological behavior of the cosmetic powder suspensions studied. A two-stage friction coefficient versus time curve was observed. By varying the particle size and concentration it was shown that the duration and magnitude of each stage can be controlled.     

Exploring the Potential of Nannochloropsis sp. Extract for Cosmeceutical Applications

Recently, there has been emerging interest in various natural products with skin protective effects as they are recognized as safe and efficient. Microalgae have developed chemical defense systems to protect themselves against oxidative stress caused by UV radiation by producing various bioactive compounds including a number of secondary metabolites, which have potential for cosmeceutical applications. In addition, microalgae have various advantages as a sustainable source for bioactive compounds with diverse functions due to their rapid growth rate, high productivity, and use of non-arable land. In this study, we aimed to investigate the cosmeceutical potential of ethanol extract from Nannochloropsis sp. G1-5 (NG15) isolated from the southern West Sea of the Republic of Korea. It contained PUFAs (including EPA), carotenoids (astaxanthin, canthaxanthin, β-carotene, zeaxanthin, violaxanthin), and phenolic compounds, which are known to have various skin protective functions. We confirmed that the NG15 extract showed various skin protective functions with low cytotoxicity, specifically anti-melanogenic, antioxidant, skin-moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkling, and UV protective function, by measuring tyrosinase inhibition activity; melanin content; DPPH radical scavenging activity; expression of HAS-2, MMP-1, and Col1A1 genes; and elastase inhibition activity as well as cell viability after UV exposure. Our results indicated that the NG15 extract has the potential to be used for the development of natural cosmetics with a broad range of skin protective functions.     

Marine Collagen: A Promising Biomaterial for Wound Healing,Skin Anti-Aging,and Bone Regeneration

Marine organisms harbor numerous bioactive substances that can be utilized in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Scientific research on various applications of collagen extracted from these organisms has become increasingly prevalent. Marine collagen can be used as a biomaterial because it is water soluble, metabolically compatible, and highly accessible. Upon review of the literature, it is evident that marine collagen is a versatile compound capable of healing skin injuries of varying severity, as well as delaying the natural human aging process. From in vitro to in vivo experiments, collagen has demonstrated its ability to invoke keratinocyte and fibroblast migration as well as vascularization of the skin. Additionally, marine collagen and derivatives have proven beneficial and useful for both osteoporosis and osteoarthritis prevention and treatment. Other bone-related diseases may also be targeted by collagen, as it is capable of increasing bone mineral density, mineral deposition, and importantly, osteoblast maturation and proliferation. In this review, we demonstrate the advantages of marine collagen over land animal sources and the biomedical applications of marine collagen related to bone and skin damage. Finally, some limitations of marine collagen are briefly discussed.     

Protective Effects of Topical Administration of Laminarin in Oxazolone-Induced Atopic Dermatitis-like Skin Lesions

Laminarin is a polysaccharide isolated from brown marine algae and has a wide range of bioactivities, including immunoregulatory and anti-inflammatory properties. However, the effects of laminarin on atopic dermatitis have not been demonstrated. This study investigated the potential effects of topical administration of laminarin using a Balb/c mouse model of oxazolone-induced atopic dermatitis-like skin lesions. Our results showed that topical administration of laminarin to the ear of the mice improved the severity of the dermatitis, including swelling. Histological analysis revealed that topical laminarin significantly decreased the thickening of the epidermis and dermis and the infiltration of mast cells in the skin lesion. Serum immunoglobulin E levels were also significantly decreased by topical laminarin. Additionally, topical laminarin significantly suppressed protein levels of oxazolone-induced proinflammatory cytokines, such as interleukin-1β, tumor necrosis factor-α, monocyte chemoattractant protein-1, and macrophage inflammatory protein-1α in the skin lesion. These results indicate that topical administration of laminarin can alleviate oxazolone-induced atopic dermatitis by inhibiting hyperproduction of IgE, mast cell infiltration, and expressions of proinflammatory cytokines. Based on these findings, we propose that laminarin can be a useful candidate for the treatment of atopic dermatitis.     

Topical anti-inflammatory plant species: Bioactivity of Bryonia dioica, Tamus communis and Lonicera periclymenum fruits

The practice of rubbing different plant material juices or extracts into the skin to relieve pain and rheumatic symptoms is deeply rooted in folk medicine and has been used for a long time. Several common species, usually available in agroecosystems of the Iberian Peninsula, were/are used for topical medicinal preparations as reported in recent ethnobotanical surveys. Based on these studies, the fruits of three relevant species (Bryonia dioica or white-bryony, Lonicera periclymenum or common honeysuckle and Tamus communis or black-bryony) were gathered and different analyses and assays were performed in order to characterize their phytochemical composition and to find biologically active compounds for pharmaceutical application. Black-bryony ripened fruits revealed the highest antioxidant properties which are in agreement to its highest concentration in phenolics, flavonoids, ascorbic acid, tocopherols and lycopene. The studied fruits revealed interesting antioxidant properties and bioactive phytochemicals that could provide scientific evidence for their folk uses as anti-inflammatory species.     

Marine Demospongiae: A Challenging Treasure of Bioactive Compounds

In the last decades, it has been demonstrated that marine organisms are a substantial source of bioactive compounds with possible biotechnological applications. Marine sponges, in particular those belonging to the class of Demospongiae, have been considered among the most interesting invertebrates for their biotechnological potential. In this review, particular attention is devoted to natural compounds/extracts isolated from Demospongiae and their associated microorganisms with important biological activities for pharmacological applications such as antiviral, anticancer, antifouling, antimicrobial, antiplasmodial, antifungal and antioxidant. The data here presented show that this class of sponges is an exciting source of compounds, which are worth developing into new drugs, such as avarol, a hydroquinone isolated from the marine sponge Disidea avara, which is used as an antitumor, antimicrobial and antiviral drug.     

Anti-Photoaging and Potential Skin Health Benefits of Seaweeds

The skin health benefits of seaweeds have been known since time immemorial. They are known as potential renewable sources of bioactive metabolites that have unique structural and functional features compared to their terrestrial counterparts. In addition, to the consciousness of green, eco-friendly, and natural skincare and cosmetics products, their extracts and bioactive compounds such as fucoidan, laminarin, carrageenan, fucoxanthin, and mycosporine like amino acids (MAAs) have proven useful in the skincare and cosmetic industries. These bioactive compounds have shown potential anti-photoaging properties. Furthermore, some of these bioactive compounds have been clinically tested and currently available in the market. In this contribution, the recent studies on anti-photoaging properties of extracts and bioactive compounds derived from seaweeds were described and discussed.     

Marine carotenoids and cardiovascular risk markers

Marine carotenoids are important bioactive compounds with physiological activities related to prevention of degenerative diseases found principally in plants, with potential antioxidant biological properties deriving from their chemical structure and interaction with biological membranes. They are substances with very special and remarkable properties that no other groups of substances possess and that form the basis of their many, varied functions and actions in all kinds of living organisms. The potential beneficial effects of marine carotenoids have been studied particularly in astaxanthin and fucoxanthin as they are the major marine carotenoids. Both these two carotenoids show strong antioxidant activity attributed to quenching singlet oxygen and scavenging free radicals. The potential role of these carotenoids as dietary anti-oxidants has been suggested to be one of the main mechanisms for their preventive effects against cancer and inflammatory diseases. The aim of this short review is to examine the published studies concerning the use of the two marine carotenoids, astaxanthin and fucoxanthin, in the prevention of cardiovascular diseases.