Predicting bending rigidity of woven fabrics using artificial neural networks

This paper reports an investigation on the predictability of bending property of woven fabrics from their constructional parameters using artificial neural network (ANN) approach. Number of cotton grey fabrics made of plain and satin weave designs were desized, scoured, and relaxed. The fabrics were then conditioned and tested for bending properties. Thread density in fabric, yarn linear density, twist in yarn, and weave design were accounted as input parameters for the model whereas bending rigidity in warp and weft directions of fabric formed the outputs. Gradient descent with momentum and an adaptive learning rate back-propagation was employed as learning algorithm to train the network. A sensitivity analysis was carried out to study the robustness of the model.     

Pull-out properties of polyester woven fabrics: Effects of softening agent and interlacement on single and multiple yarn pull-out forces and analysis by statistical model

The aim of this study was to understand the effects of softening treatment on pull-out properties of plain, ribs and satin fabrics. Polyester woven fabrics were used to conduct the pull-out tests. Data generated from these tests included pullout force, crimp extension and fabric displacement. A developed yarn pull-out fixture was used to perform single and multiple pull-out tests on treated and untreated polyester fabrics. Yarn pull-out forces depend on fabric treatments, fabric density, fabric weave, and the number of pulled ends in the fabric. The results of regression model showed that multiple and single yarn pull-out forces of treated fabrics were lower than those of untreated fabrics. The multiple yarn pull-out force was higher than that of the single yarn pull-out force, and that dense fabric had a high pull-out force. Treated and untreated plain fabrics had high single and multiple pull-out forces compared to those of treated and untreated ribs and satin fabrics. Yarn crimp extension depends on directional crimp ratios in the fabric and the number of pulled yarn ends. High directional crimp ratio fabric showed high directional yarn crimp extension. Fabric displacement depends on the number of pulled yarn ends and also fabric treatments. Fabric displacement in multiple pull-out tests showed high fabric displacement compared to that of single pull-out tests. On the other hand, the regression model could be used in this study as a viable and reliable tool.     

大麻织物的抗紫外线性能评价

测试了不同厚度、不同覆盖系数、不同组织结构和颜色的大麻织物紫外线透过率和抗紫外指数（UPF值），分析了厚度、覆盖系数、组织结构和颜色对大麻织物的抗紫外线性能的影响，指出大麻织物越厚，其紫外线透过率越小，UPF值愈大；覆盖系数增加，紫外线透过率减小，UPF值随之增大；在厚度和覆盖系数相同时，缎纹组织大麻织物的抗紫外线性能最好，斜纹组织大麻织物次之，平纹组织大麻织物再次之。深色大麻织物的抗紫外线性能好，浅色的较差。随着大麻织物颜色饱和度增加，其紫外线透过率相应减小，UPF值相应增加，抗紫外线性能越好。     

Image analysis of the luster of fabrics with modified cross-section fibers

We have investigated the luster of modified cross-sectional fiber fabrics as one of the essential quality estimates for clothing development. We have confirmed an objective evaluation method, and have determined the experimental luster characteristics of modified cross-section fibers. The cross-section of the fibers in a fabric affects the appearance of a textile. We used the image analysis method to investigate the luster to determine the critical factors influencing the appearance of modified cross-section fiber fabrics. For similarly structured textiles in a component fabric, clear differences were observed in the fabric weave, density, percentage, and total area of blobs, which is image region. Color played a decisive role in the luster of the textiles, and luster was not significantly influenced by the modified cross-section fabric weave. In addition, the degree of luster did not increase in the order plain to twill to satin for modified cross-sectional fiber fabrics. All the split-type microfibers exhibited higher numerical luster values (percentage of pixels, and number and total area of blobs) than sea-island microfibers did. The degree of luster of the modified cross-sectional fiber fabrics was not high at specular reflection angles.     

Analysis and tensile characterization of air-entangled textured polyester woven fabrics depending on interlacement and yarn sets

The aim of this study was to understand the failure mechanism of two dimensional dry fabric structure considering yarn sets and interlacements. For this purpose, data generated on air-entangled textured polyester woven fabric under the simple tensile load and analyzed by developed regression model. The regression model showed that warp and weft directional tensile strengths of satin fabric were higher than those of plain and rib fabrics in unravel sample. This might be related to the number of interlacements of the fabrics. There was not a considerable difference between warp directional tensile strength of ravel and unravel satin fabrics, whereas weft directional tensile strength of ravel satin fabric decreased rapidly with respect to its unravel form. The satin fabric showed the highest warp directional tensile strength among the others. The lowest weft directional tensile strength was received from ribs fabric. In semi-ravel sample, all fabrics showed low warp and weft directional tensile strength values except in plain fabric. Warp directional tensile elongation of plain fabric was the highest in unravel sample. Satin fabric showed the highest warp directional tensile elongation in the ravel sample. Warp directional tensile elongations of all the fabrics in the semi-ravel sample became low. Weft directional tensile elongation of satin fabric was the highest in unravel sample. In addition, satin and plain fabrics showed the highest weft directional tensile elongations in the ravel sample. Weft directional tensile elongations of all the fabrics in the semi-ravel sample became low except in ribs fabric.     

Mechanical properties and tactile sensation of naturally colored organic cotton fabrics

This study was carried out to investigate mechanical properties of naturally colored organic cotton (NaCOC) fabrics, to evaluate tactile sensory perceptions, and finally to identify the related mechanical parameters with the sensory perceptions. Two species, coyote-brown and green NaCOC fiber, commercially available, were selected and woven into plain and twill fabrics. Seventeen mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. Then, primary hand value (PHV) and total hand value (THV) were calculated by KN-203-LDY and KN-302-SUMMER, respectively. For sensory perception evaluation, 30 participants answered the questionnaire consisted of nine different bipolar adjectives dealing with tactile sensation using the semantic differential scale (SDS). As the result of mechanical properties, there were meaningful differences in shear, surface, compression properties, thickness, and weight of 4 NaCOC fabrics. For hand value, a coyotebrown twill fabric was evaluated as the most appropriate for lady’s summer dress applications. In sensory perception evaluation, meaningful differences of sensory perception were shown among 4 specimens except ‘fineness’ and ‘wetness’ perceptions. Prediction models for sensory perceptions of NaCOC fabrics were extracted by regression analysis in ‘softness’, ‘fineness’, ‘warmth’, ‘pliability’, ‘limpness’, ‘thinness’ and ‘wetness’ perceptions.     

Effect of softeners and crosslinking conditions on the performance of easy-care cotton fabrics with different weave constructions

This study reports an experimental investigation on the effect of softeners, crosslinking conditions, and laundering on the comfort related and low stress mechanical properties of cotton fabrics with different weave constructions. Softeners with different chemical natures, in conjunction with the crosslinking agent and catalyst, were padded onto the cotton fabrics of three types of weave constructions, viz. plain, twill, and a newly developed plant-structured weave design. Two crosslinking conditions, namely dry and moist curing conditions, were compared. Scanning electron microscope (SEM) and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscope were used to visualize and quantify the morphological and chemical changes on fabrics. The experimental results showed that the dry-crosslinking condition is preferable to achieve better comfort and easy-care properties, while moist-crosslinking condition is a better choice when strength-related properties are the main requirement. The study further showed that silicone elastomer softener can be applied to improve fabric strength whereas micro-emulsion of functional amino-polysiloxane plus emulsion containing polyalkylene is beneficial for comfort characteristic. The plant-structured cotton fabric finished in the dry-crosslinking condition with softener in nano-emulsion form can result in superb water absorption, excellent air permeability, good handle, acceptable strength, and improved easycare property.     

Handle,fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn woven stretch fabrics

Hybrid yarn was produced by twisting silk with nylon covered lycra yarn. Silk of 20 D in warp and hybrid yarn in weft was woven to develop lustrous woven stretch fabrics for sari blouse. Silk and hybrid yarn fabrics were produced in three different weaves namely plain, crepe and sateen. An in-depth study was carried out to understand the effect of weave on thermal comfort; low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties. Nine blouses (3 samples× 3 figures) were constructed from three different woven stretch materials for fit assessment and objective pressure comfort test. The effect of fabric weave, low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties on fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabrics were analyzed. Sateen weave silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabric shows higher total hand value, stretch properties and better thermal comfort properties. Sateen and crepe weave stretch fabrics provided good fit. Sateen weave fabric exerted lower clothing pressure value in the range of 3-12 mmHg at all body locations in standing position and in different postures.     

The psycho-physiological response of polyethylene terephthalate irradiated by ultra-violet: Subjective fabric hand and wear comfort

The purpose of this study was to compare the subjective fabric hand evaluation and wear comfort of PET treated by Ultraviolet and to evaluate the subjective results from the investigation of microclimate temperature. The subjective hand evaluation was performed by 20 subjects (age: 20–25) with 5-point scale questionnaires to investigate the change of PET knit fabrics treated for different times, specifically, 0, 30 and 90 minutes. The questionnaires were composite with 8 questions; roughness, smoothness, wetness, stiffness, coolness, touch, preference, and comfort. In order to evaluate sensations of wear comfort, we made garments with UV treated fabric and five female students were tested. They walked at the speed of 6.7 km/hr for 15 minutes in an environment, which was controlled at 29°C, 75±5 % RH. Before and after exercising, the microclimate under clothing and subjective wear comfort was measured. The results of subjective evaluation of fabric hand were that untreated and treated for 30 minutes PET were recognized as similar and have a good evaluation on comfort, preference, and touch. According to the result of wear comfort, clothing treated by UV for 90 minutes had the lowest value on the thermal and humidity sensations. In addition, the value of tactile and comfort sensation was the highest on the clothing treated by UV for 90 minutes. In the case of objective evaluation, PET treated for 90 minutes was the lowest on microclimate humidity. PET irradiated by UV for 90 minutes was more ‘cool’ in thermal sensation and more ‘dry’ in wet sensation. Accordingly, it was consistent with the result of subjective wear comfort.     

Effects of sample dimensions on pull-out properties of woven fabric structures

The aim of this study was to understand the effects of fabric sample dimensions on pull-out properties of fabric weaves. Polyester woven fabrics were used to conduct the pull-out tests. A yarn pull-out fixture was developed and data generated from this research. Yarn pull-out forces depend on sample dimensions, fabric density, fabric weave, and number of pulled ends in the fabric. Results showed that multiple and single yarn pull-out forces of long samples were higher than those of short samples, and the multiple yarn pull-out force was higher than that of the single yarn pull-out force, and dense fabric has high pull-out force. Plain fabric weave showed high single and multiple pull-out forces compared to ribs and satin fabric weaves. The regression model could be used in this study as a viable and reliable tool. This research could be valuable for development of multifunctional fabrics in technical textile applications.     

Dimensional,physical and thermal properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 50/50 blend of modal viscose fiber in microfiber form with cotton fiber

In this study, the dimensional, physical and thermal comfort properties of the plain knitted fabrics made from 50/50 blend of modal viscose fiber in microfiber form with cotton fiber are compared with those of the similar fabrics made from 50/50 blend of conventional modal viscose fiber with cotton fiber and made from 100 % cotton fiber. All the fabric types are produced in three different stitch lengths. The slight differences among the fabric types are observed in terms of the stitch density results and the dimensional constants calculated in the fully relaxed state. In the fully relaxed state, the dimensional K values of the modal microfiber blended knitted fabrics are found to be more closely resemble those of the cotton fabrics rather than those of the conventional modal fiber blended fabrics. The lowest fabric thickness and bursting strength results are obtained for the modal microfiber blended fabrics. The modal microfiber blended fabrics reveal lower air permeability than the conventional modal fiber blended fabrics and higher air permeability than the cotton fabrics. It is also observed from the thermal comfort results that the modal microfiber blended fabrics have the lowest thermal resistance and the highest thermal absoptivity values. The thermal conductivity results of the modal microfiber blended fabrics are lower than those of the cotton fabrics and higher than those of the conventional modal fiber blended fabrics. Because of the highest thermal absorptivity values, the modal microfiber blended fabrics provide the coolest feeling when compared with the other two fabric types.     

Electromagnetic interference shielding effectiveness of SS/PET hybrid yarn incorporated woven fabrics

A detailed study of electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMSE) of woven fabrics made of polyester and stainless steel/polyester blended conductive yarn was presented in this research work. Fabrics with different structures were analyzed and their shielding behavior was reported under different frequencies. Shielding efficiency of fabric was analyzed by vector network analyzer in the frequency range of 300 kHz to 1.5 GHz using coaxial transmission line holder. The effects of different fabric parameters such as weft density, proportion of conductive weft yarn, proportion of stainless steel content, grid openness, weave pattern and number of fabric layers on EMSE of fabrics were studied. The EMSE of fabric was found to be increased with increase in proportion of conductive yarn in the weft way. With increase in overall stainless-steel content in the fabric, the EMSE of fabric was increased. As such weave is considered, it did not have significant effect on EMSE of fabrics. But fabric with lower openness and aperture ratio showed better conducting network, hence better shielding. With increase in number of layers of fabric and ply yarns, EMSE of fabric was increased.     

Comparative study of cellulase treatment on low stress mechanical properties of cotton denim fabric made by torque-free ring spun yarn

Cellulase is useful for bio-polishing cotton fabrics which enhances their aesthetic performance instead of stonewashing process. Torque-free ring spun process is a widely used technique to produce newly low-twist and balanced torque yarns with soft hand. In this paper, denim fabrics woven with torque-free ring spun yarn and conventional ring spun yarn respectively were treated with cellulase under the same condition and their fabric handle, expressed as low stress mechanical properties, such as tensile strength, bending, shearing, compression and surface performance were investigated by Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F). After cellulase treatment, both denim fabrics revealed better flexibility, elasticity recovery, raised shearing stiffness, fluffier and improved smoothness. While torque-free ring spun yarn made denim fabric showed a better fabric handle than conventional ring spun yarn made denim fabric.     

Self-organizing map network for automatically recognizing color texture fabric nature

The method of recognizing color texture brought forth in the present study is to employ unsupervised learning network to automatically recognize the fabric type and the main texture types. Firstly, the color scanner is adopted to extract fabric image which is afterwards saved as the digital image. Secondly,CIE-Lab color model is taken to obtain the feature value and wavelet transform is utilized to display the texture of the fabric image. Thirdly, co-occurrence matrix is employed to figure out the feature values of the texture structure such as angular second moment, entropy, homogeneity, contrast. Finally, self-organizing map (SOM) network is used as the classifier. The experiment result shows that the study can automatically and accurately classify the fabric types (including shuttle-woven fabric, jersey fabric and non-woven fabric) and main texture type of the fabric (such as plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, single jersey, double jersey and non-woven fabric).     

Automatic classification of woven fabric structure based on texture feature and PNN

In today’s textile industry, the classification of woven fabrics is usually manual which requires considerable human efforts and a long time. With the rapid development of computer vision, the automatic and efficient methods for woven fabric classification are desperately needed. This paper proposes an automatic and real-time classification method to analyze three woven fabrics: plain, twill and satin weave. The methodology involves two approaches to extract texture features, that is, gray-level co-occurrence matrix (GLCM) and Gabor wavelet. Then, principal component analysis (PCA) is utilized to deal with the texture feature vectors to gain minimize redundancy and maximize principal component feature vectors. Finally, in the classification phase, probabilistic neural network (PNN) is applied to classify three basic woven fabrics. With strong realtime, fault-tolerance and non-linear classification capability, PNN can be a promising tool for classification of woven fabrics. The experimental results show that PNN classifier with faster training speed can classify woven fabrics accurately and efficiently. Besides, compared with GLCM method and Gabor wavelet method, the fusion of the two feature vectors obtains the best classification result (95 %).     

Influence of the deformation mode on seam slippage in woven fabrics

In the present study the influence of the deformation mode, of the specimen elongation deformation, of the fabrics?? weave type, of fabrics?? direction and of the position of seam allowances in respect to the stitching line on the seam slippage in the raw plain, twill and combined-twill weave fabrics was investigated. Fabrics were woven with the warp yarn of 20×2 tex 70 % cotton and 30 % PES blended 2-ply spun yarn and the weft yarn of 18 tex 100 % PES folded multifilament yarn using jacquard weaving machine ??Lindaucer DORNER GmbH??. Seam slippage of the investigated woven fabrics was determined using the new simple and compact technical device suitable to test fabrics for seam slippage property within five different deformation modes: an uniaxial tension of seams with opened seam allowances on the surface of metal table; an uniaxial tension of seams with bent to one side allowances in respect to stitching line on the surface of the metal table; an unrestricted uniaxial tension of seams; a bagging of seams with bent to one side allowances in respect to the stitching line using the plastic hollow cylinder; a bagging of seams with opened seam allowances using the plastic hollow cylinder. The results of the research had proved that seam slippage of the investigated woven fabrics was dependent on the deformation mode, on the elongation of sewn specimens, on the location of allowances in respect to the stitching line, on the fabric weave type as well as on the woven fabric direction.     

The effect of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness of polyester fabrics

The effects of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness values of textured polyester woven fabrics with different constructional parameters were investigated. The warp yarn properties (type, count and warp density) were kept constant while the effect of variation in weft yarn density and weave pattern were studied. Measurements were conducted on pre-treated white fabric samples and the results assessed in relation to their constructional properties. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness values of polyester fabrics affected by fabric balance and fabric cover and the effects were related to fabric thickness, yarn densities, yarn crimp, positioning of yarns in fabric structure. A change in weave pattern from sateen to plain increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased the surface roughness. Similarly, an increase in weft density increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased surface roughness. In order to produce fabrics with smooth surface properties yarn density should be increased, yarn float lengths decreased, cover of fabrics increased and fabric balance improved.     

Analysis and off-axis tensile characterization of air-entangled textured polyester woven fabrics depending on unit cell interlacing frequency

The aim of this study is to analyze and determine the off-axis tensile properties of air-entangled textured polyester fabrics based on unit cell interlacing frequency. For this purpose, continuous filament polyester air-entangled textured yarn was used to produce plain, ribs and satin woven fabrics. The fabrics were cut from the warp direction (0°) to weft direction (90°) at every 15° increment, and tensile tests were applied to those of the off-axis samples. The strength and elongation results were introduced to the statistical model developed, and regression analyses were carried out. Hence, the effects of off-axis loading and interlacement on the directional tensile properties of the fabric were investigated. The regression model showed that off-axis loading influences fabric tensile strength. On the other hand, interlacement frequency is the most important factor for fabric tensile elongation. The results from the regression model were compared with the measured values. This study confirmed that the method used in this study as can be a viable and reliable tool. Future research will concentrate on multiaxially directional fabric and the probability that it will result in homogeneous in-plane fabric properties.     

Dimensional and physical properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 50/50 bamboo/cotton blended yarns

In this study, the dimensional and some physical properties of plain knitted fabrics made from 50/50 bamboo/cotton blended yarns are investigated. In order to see the differences and similarities, the results are then compared with those for similar fabrics knitted from 50/50 conventional viscose/cotton and 50/50 modal/cotton blended yarns. Each fabric type was produced with three different stitch lengths. After all fabrics were dyed under identical dyeing conditions, they were subjected to dry and full relaxation treatments. For dimensional properties of fabrics, course, wale and stitch densities were measured. Then, by calculating statistically best-fit lines passing both through the experimental points and the origin, dimensional constants i.e. k values were predicted in terms of the fiber types. The result show that each fabric type knitted from bamboo/cotton, viscose/cotton and modal/cotton blended yarns behaves in a similar manner. However, in both dry and fully relaxed states, the modal/cotton knitted fabrics tend to have slightly higher k values than the bamboo/cotton and viscose/cotton knitted fabrics. For physical properties, fabric weight per unit area, thickness, bursting strength, air permeability and pilling were evaluated. The results show that the weight, thickness and air permeability values are independent of the fiber type. Plain knitted fabrics from modal/cotton blended yarns have the highest bursting strength values. Plain knitted fabrics from bamboo/cotton blended yarns tend to pill less.     

Prediction of the fabric’s crease recovery property with Taguchi design of experiment

The creasing characteristic of fabrics is affected by many factors like yarn twist, fabric density, fabric constructions, fabric thickness apart from the fiber type. In the first part of this study, the effect of yarn fineness, yarn twist, fabric tightness and weave construction factors on crease recovery was studied. In the second part of the study, in order to improve the creasing recovery of the fabrics, shape memory alloy (SMA) wires were used and the effect of shape memory alloy (SMA) wire on the crease recovery of cotton fabrics produced with different types of weave constructions were determined. Due to the high cost of SMA wire and the weaving operation adversity the two experimental plans were designed according to Taguchi design of experiment (TDOE). From the analysis of the first part, it was found that the yarn linear density had the greatest effect on fabric crease recovery compare to others. Twist coefficient was the second, weft density was third and the weave construction had the least significant effect on the crease recovery. The fabrics produced with coarser and low twisted yarns with high tightness and longer floats in the weave construction have higher crease recovery property. In the second part of the study, the application of the SMA wire significantly increased the crease recovery angle of the fabrics. The thickness of the SMA wire is very important and the effect depends on the wire thickness. The increase of the SMA wire thickness increases the crease recovery significantly. However it must be appropriate with the yarn and fabric properties. The distance between the SMA wire distances was expected to increase the crease recovery however the effect was found not significant. The fabrics produced with coarser yarns with longer floats in the weave construction have higher crease recovery property. However, statistically the effects of these parameters were found not significant due to the dominant effect of the wire thickness.