The development of an automatic pattern-making system for made-to-measure clothing

This study developed a system that automatically created individually customized patterns by combining the two methods of “automatic drafting by pattern formulae” and “grading”. The system reads four kinds of information: body measurements; basic size pattern; grading values of the pattern’s points; and an alteration rule. Using the files, the system automatically generated a grading pattern first, and then modified it according to the alteration rule to make individually customized patterns. The clothing produced from the customized pattern fit the subject better than the clothing produced from the grading method.     

Parametric body model generation for garment drape simulation

A parametric body model generation system has been developed. Using various mathematic and geometric algorithms of this system, a three-dimensionally scanned human body can be converted into a resizable body model. Once a parametric body model is formed, its size and shape can be modified instantaneously by providing appropriate anthropometric data. To facilitate the subsequent pattern arrangement process for garment drape simulation, a bounding box generation algorithm has been developed in this study. Also the model can be converted into a set of parametric surfaces that it can also be used for three-dimensional garment pattern design system.     

Development of a platform for realistic garment drape simulation

An integrated platform for garment drape simulation system has been developed. In this system, garment patterns from conventional two-dimensional CAD systems can be assembled into a three-dimensional garment on a parametrically resizable realistic human body model. A fast and robust particle-based physical calculation engine has been developed for garment shape generation. Then a series of geometric and graphical techniques were applied to create realistic impressions on simulated garments. This system can be used as the rapid prototyping tool for garments in the future quick-response system.     

3D pattern construction and its application to tight-fitting garments for comfortable pressure sensation

Tight-fitting clothing pattern reflecting the accurate information of the 3D body shape has been one of the challenges for garment industry, however, fitting problems still exist. The objectives of the paper is to develop a 2D pattern which fits tightly to the 3D human scan data for sports suits that need comfort and function for maximum performance. In this study, the user graphic interface application software for the semi-automatic garment pattern generation has been implemented using the triangle simplification scheme together with 2D projections of free-falling of 3D surface polygons keeping the original 3D surface area preservation. A typical application of the developed pattern to the functional body suits is presented and verification of the proposed method is also provided.     

Effect of clothing constructions on core temperature during exercise and recovery at an ambient temperature

In this paper we investigated the human thermoregulatory responses, especially core temperature behavior during exercise and recovery at ambient temperature of 10 °C and 50 % R.H. under the conditions of wearing three kinds of clothing with same weight and different constructions. Six healthy men wore three kinds of clothing: one insulating the upper half of the body thinly and the lower half of the body heavily (clothing A, the weights in the upper and lower halves of the body were 489 g and 1278 g, respectively.), the second one insulating the upper half of the body heavily and the lower half of the body thinly (clothing B, 1212 g and 559 g, respectively.), and the third one insulating the upper and lower halves of the body moderately (clothing C, 899 g and 879 g, respectively.). The level of rectal temperature was the greatest during exercise in clothing C and the lowest during recovery in clothing A. The increasing and decreasing rates of core temperature during exercise and recovery, respectively, were the smallest in clothing B. These findings are discussed in terms of different cooling efficiency from the lower extremities and disfunction of counter current heat exchange system among clothing A, B, and C.     

A new experimental study of influence of fabric permeability, clothing sizes, openings and wind on regional ventilation rates

In this study, a local ventilation rates (VR) measuring system based on stead-state method was developed. This system can measure the local VR of the right arm, the left arm, the chest and the back locations of the upper body garment simultaneously. The whole clothing VR can also be computed. To study the influence of fabric permeability, clothing sizes, hem opening, and wind on local VR of the right arm, the chest and the back of the working garments, 9 jackets with different sizes and fabric permeability (permeable, semi-permeable and impermeable) were made. The results showed that the local VR for each garment location were significantly different. The chest had the largest local VR. Clothing ventilation rates were not liner with garment sizes. Closing garment bottom decreased more air exchange for chest and back comparatively. Wind increased both local and whole VR significantly. But the impacts were different according to different locations.     

3D pattern development of tight-fitting dress for an asymmetrical female manikin

Tight-fitting clothing pattern reflecting the accurate information of the 3D body shape has been one of the challenges for garment industry especially for those who have an abnormal body shape. The objective of the paper is to develop the process of making a final 2D pattern from 3D scanned surface with minimum errors that fit tightly to an asymmetrical female manikin and secondly, to verify the proposed pattern development process from the free drawn design line on the specific 3D body. On the continuum of the previous methodology which provided the precise flattening algorithm on the local 3D surface, total pattern making process was investigated step by step. Final 2D pattern was constructed using non-extensible fabric and the accuracy of the pattern was investigated by shell-shell deviation of original 3D nude and clothed image. Area of each pattern block and corresponding 3D surface block was compared, and the detailed view of the triangle arrangements for the final pattern examined, confirming the topology of the concave and convex surface reflected correctly in the pattern. As results, the accuracy of the tight-fit dress pattern was satisfactory even for the asymmetrical female manikin with prominent curvature.     

A new approach to evaluate the effect of body motion on heat transfer of thermal protective clothing during flash fire exposure

The effect of dynamic change of air gap between protective clothing and skin caused by continuous human body motion on thermal protective performance of protective fabric cannot be simulated in current bench-top test. In this study, a newly modified TPP test apparatus with a dynamic air gap manufacturing system was applied to investigate the effect of body motion on heat transfer of fabrics exposed to flash fires. Three different velocities of body motion were simulated respectively. The results indicated that the dynamic air gap with variation range of 0–25 mm significantly improved thermal protection of fabric comparing with no air gap, but approximated to static air gap of 6.4 mm width for different heat transfer modes. It was manifested that thermal protection had no linear relationship with the air gap width variation frequency due to convection heat in microclimate, and the TPP values was shown as 0.5 rps < 0.25 rps, 0.5 rps < 1 rps and uncertain for 0.25 rps with 1 rps. The amplitude of simulate epidermis surface temperature fluctuation had a negative correlation with air gap variation frequency. Most of the temperature curves rose smoothly along with periodical variation, only the temperature fluctuation of 0.25 rps could be observed in a variation cycle.     

Enhanced visualization of simulated woven fabrics

The woven fabric graphics designed with available computer aided design (CAD) systems using different colored warp and weft yarns look quite different from the appearance of their actual fabrics. To enhance the visual effects of designed woven fabric graphics, this paper reports a modified CAD woven fabric system, which allows users to design a fabric using parameters including fabric weaves, yarn number, yarn material, fabric count, crimp shape of interwoven yarns, and illumination. This enhanced system can design both yarns and fabrics, and consider the transitional color effect around interweaving points of warp and weft yarns. Its simulation image quality of woven fabrics has been greatly improved, and several textile mills and universities are currently using this woven fabric design system.     

The analysis of the apparel supply chain systems with specific reference to the Korean apparel organisations of the overseas and domestic brand products

Case studies of apparel organisations, in two broadly distinguishable market groups in South Korea have been conducted for this research. One of the case study organisations,company A, sells high fashion knit wear products manufactured by a foreign supplier and the other,company B, deals fashionable ladies wear supplied by 8 to 10 domestic apparel manufacturers. The study identifies common issues and differences between these dissimilar apparel companies in their respective supply chain systems. The selected apparel systems were analysed and categorised into four sectors, i.e.: production management, product distribution management, customer buying behaviour analysis and the evaluation of business performance in terms of both quantity and quality. The analysis was conducted as a pre-cursor to simulation studies to investigate the effects of apparel supply chain control parameters on the relevant business performance. The predominant costs are the product cost and the outlet rent, both of which reflect the product volumes ordered. The forecast errors are high for both apparel companies. Therefore, improving the forecasting techniques should significantly reduce the costs and improve the profits. The data derived from the case studies can contribute new information on the globalised supply chain study area, especially the approach to compare the international to domestic apparel entrepreneurs’ activities/finances will be a useful guideline to compare relevant supply chain systems in other countries as well as in Korea.     

An investigation of color fading of sulfur-dyed cotton fabric by plasma treatment

Popularity of clothing with different kinds of faded color effects has been growing in recent years, leading to development of several technologies and techniques for imparting the vintage and old-fashion look. However, most color fading technologies and processes involve use of significant quantities of chemicals and water, raising concerns about environmental pollution, and other related problems. It is quite difficult to control the color fading effect on textile products. Plasma treatment has been used for color fading of cotton apparel quite successfully in the last few years. Air is used as the color fading agent and therefore no chemical effluents are generated. This study examines color fading of sulfur dyed cotton fabrics with plasma treatment. Cotton fabrics (yellow color) dyed with sulfur dyes were plasma treated under varying conditions and the resultant color fading effect was evaluated instrumentally. The color fading effect was found to be quite controllable if the treatment parameters were properly selected. Besides, evenness of the end product was excellent.     

The physiological response on wear comfort of polyethylene terephthalate irradiated by ultra-violet

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the comfort of PET clothing treated by UV. The physiological responses of the human body were investigated. Mean skin temperature and physiological signals such as Electroencephalogram (EEG), and heart rate (Electrocardiogram, (ECG)) were examined for 20 minutes during stable wearing conditions. Mean skin temperature was measured every two seconds using Ramanathan’s method. Physiological responses were measured using Biopac MP100 series and analyzed using the software, Acqknowledge 3.5.2. Psychological effects were analyzed every five minutes. Comfort of untreated PET clothing decreased with the passage of time. Compared with PET clothing untreated, treated for 30 minutes, and treated for 90 minutes, the analysis of EEG showed that PET clothing treated for 90 minutes was the most comfortable after 20 minutes. In addition, the interval of the heart rate shown on the ECG was the highest in PET clothing treated for 90 minutes. Skin temperature was the lowest in PET treated for 90 minutes. We thus conclude that suitable UV irradiation would improve comfort.     

Research on digital intelligent recognition method of the weave pattern of fabric based on the redundant information

Digital intelligent recognition for the weave pattern of fabric plays an important role to improve automation and artificial intelligence in textile production process. In order to improve the data processing efficiency and minimize the negative influence such as human error in the conventional methods, a rapid, automatic and accurate method for the surface structure analysis and the fabric weave pattern recognition is proposed. First of all, an imaging system was designed to obtain the double-faced images of fabric samples, and then the captured images were treated by projection algorithm in both warp and weft directions to generate a grid net which splits the image into massive nodes. In the following step, the nodes were preliminary classified based on the intensity of the node’s quadrilateral boundary and at the same time, the color of the nodes was calculated by using the color clustering method. To improve the accuracy of node classification, the types and color information of the adjacent nodes, together with double-faced image information, were utilized for error correction. At last, the node information acquired was encoded and expressed digitally by a basic matrix, two one-dimension matrices (row and column) and a color mapping table. Following the procedure above, the digital model of the weave pattern of the sample fabric is established. Experiments have been conducted and show the performance of the proposed method.     

海南岛南繁区棉花根结线虫病发生情况调查及综合防治

用5点法调查海南岛南繁区棉花根结线虫病,并采集棉花根结线虫病样本。运用形态学观察和同工酶分析鉴定棉花根结线虫。结果表明：(1)南繁区的南滨农场和师部农场的棉花根结线虫病发病率达40%,发病程度最高为3级,根结指数最高为29;(2)鉴定该棉花根结线虫为南方根结线虫。初步提出棉花根结线虫病的防治方法主要是农业防治、生物防治、物理防治和化学防治相结合的综合防治方法。     

自动化炒青绿茶生产线的设计与应用

以国产茶叶机械为主体,采用面向对象多层体系结构技术的Delphi7.0研制开发出一套炒青绿茶自动化示范生产线及其控制系统。整套设备实现了茶叶加工参数精准控制、加工状态实时显示、加工数据自动存储、自动控制与手动控制自由切换四大目标。在炒青绿茶自动化生产线平台上,对杀青、揉捻、干燥等工艺进行了标准化研究,初步提出一套适合我国炒青绿茶的自动化加工标准工艺参数。     

Comparison of efficiency between differential evolution and evolution strategy: application of the LST model to the Be River catchment in Vietnam

Parameter calibration is an important step in the development of rainfall–runoff models. Recently, there has been a significant focus on automatic calibration. In this paper, two evolutionary optimization algorithms were applied to calibration of the long- and short-term runoff model (LST model) to simulate the daily rainfall–runoff process in the Be River catchment located in southern Vietnam. The differential evolution (DE) and evolution strategy (ES) algorithms were employed to optimize three objective functions: the Nash–Sutcliffe efficiency coefficient, root mean square error, and mean absolute error, which are indices for evaluating the simulation accuracy of the LST model. Hydrometeorological data for the periods 1985–1989 and 1990–1991 were used for calibration and validation, respectively. The LST model was calibrated for each objective function using five different parent and offspring population conditions. The results show that both the DE and ES algorithms are efficient methods for automatic calibration of the LST model. After 1000 generations, the best values of the fitness indices found by the DE technique were slightly better and more stable than those found by the ES technique in both calibration and validation. The average computation time for each generation using the DE algorithm was approximately two-thirds as long as that using the ES algorithm.     

Muscle activity monitoring with fabric stretch sensors

In this paper, development of a fabric stretch sensor embedded system has been proposed for muscle activity monitoring. It is expected that this product will be proper for monitoring a wide range of human activities mainly due to the characteristics of light-weight and high sensitivity. The fabric sensors developed can be easily attached to almost any types of clothing due to their thin and stretchable natures. The mechanism and performance of the sensors have been characterized by measuring the mechanical and electrical performance along with stretch ratio or strain percent. The data collected would be successfully transmitted to mobile phones through low power consumption BLE connection, and thus muscle activities in real time. As expected, the resultant smart muscle pants could achieve realistic goals through monitoring body movements without any significant loss of wear comforts in normal clothing. This work significantly contributed in enhancing the utility of strain/stretch sensors for development of e-textiles and intended to be a starting point for data collection and analysis of smart fabric embedded sensing technologies.     

Evaluation of Laundering Durability of Electro-conductive Textile Dip-coated on Para Aramid Knit with Graphene/Waterborne Polyurethane Composite

This study aims to fabricate an electro-conductive textile dip-coated with graphene/waterborne polyurethane (WPU) composite, and an evaluation of the laundering durability of this composite was conducted in order to confirm the application of the protective clothing. Samples were coated five times on the para-aramid knit with the graphene/WPU composite by the dip-coating method, and then hot-pressed processes were applied with various temperatures. The samples were washed 5, 10, 15, and 20 times, and then, morphology, surface resistance, and surface temperature were measured. After five laundering cycles, control and hot-pressed samples maintained surface resistivity from 10 kΩ/sq to 100 kΩ/sq. The surface resistivity of the control sample, however, was gradually increased up to 20 laundering cycles. The sample that was hot-pressed at 120 °C showed the lowest value of about 15 kΩ/sq with almost no variation from zero laundering cycles to 20, thus, it is the most stable sample up to 20 laundering cycles. When applied voltage at 50V, the surface temperature of the nonlaundering samples was presented as over 40.0 °C. In the case of the control sample, there was almost no electrical heating performance remaining after the fifth laundering test, but the hot-pressed samples maintained 40.0 °C or more at 50 V after the 10th laundering test. The sample that was hot-pressed at 120 °C in particular could maintain electrical heating performance at about an 80 % level up to the 10th laundering cycle. Therefore, the sample that was hot-pressed at 120 °C was the most stable in terms of electrical properties after 20 laundering cycles, and its electrical heating performance could be maintained even after 10 laundering cycles. It is expected that this process can be applied and used to make functional clothes for apparel and other applications.     

Static lateral compression of hemp/filament hybrid yarn knitted fabrics

The novel designed hemp/filament hybrid yarns were used to produce knitted fabrics in order to investigate the influence of the unique internal structure of hybrid yarns on compressional behavior of clothing textile materials. The knitted fabrics are subjected to successive compression-release cycles and the compression-release curves obtained made it possible to calculate the particular compression parameters such as recoverable and irrecoverable compression. By using the parameters the non-elastic deformation components (viscoelastic and plastic deformation) are determined. In spite of generally accepted fact that van Wyk’s theory has some limitations, since it does not explain the hysteresis caused by fiber slippage and friction effects, the two-parameter mechanical model derived from van Wyk’s compression theory is applied successfully to determine the compression hysteresis.     

扁形绿茶自动化生产线构建和控制研究

根据扁形绿茶鲜叶原料、加工工艺等特点,以现有国产茶叶加工机械为主,结合新研制的连续理条、连续做形设备,按照模块化设计思路,构建了1条扁形绿茶自动化生产线。自动化生产线的控制软件基于Windows XP操作系统开发,采用Advantech Web Access软件,通过CC-Link（Control and Communication link）现场总线与各模块进行功能交互,实现了茶叶加工参数的准确控制,操作简单明了。