A study of comfort performance in cotton and polyester blended fabrics. I. Vertical wicking behavior

Vertical wicking model was developed based on Darcy’s law. In the model, permeability coefficient, capillary pressure and fabric thickness were used as the key parameters to describe wicking behavior. For the simulation and test, fiber type and fabric structure were chosen as variables. In a highly porous knit fabric, gravitational effect during the wicking process was significant. The higher the capillary pressure was, the higher was the wicking rise. Surface wetting tension, i.e., the specific fluid affinity of material, was newly defined to characterize different capillary pressures in various types of fabric structures. The model, the methodology and the results could provide an insight into fabric design to produce fabric with an optimum wicking performance.     

The mechanical properties and abrasion behavior of warp knitted fabrics for footwear

The abrasion behavior of three kinds of warp knitted fabrics, which are normally used for upper sole of footwear, was evaluated. We measured the changes of mechanical and structural properties of each sample as abrasion cycle increased. Each sample showed similar trends in compression and surface properties but there were significant differences in abrasion rate among the samples. The mechanical properties showed remarkable differences with directions. The frictional coefficient (MIU) of fabric surface increased at the beginning of abrasion and decreased as abrasion cycles increased. The weight and thickness of the fabric linearly decreased with abrasion cycles. The surface roughness (SMD) and the compressional resilience (RC) decreased as abrasion cycles increased while compressional energy (WC) increased.     

Evolution of moisture management behavior of high-wicking 3D warp knitted spacer fabrics

Moisture management behavior is a vital factor in evaluating thermal and physiological comfort of functional textiles. This research work studies functional 3 dimensional (3D) warp knitted spacer fabrics containing high-wicking materials characterized by their profiled cross section. These spacer fabrics can be used for protective vest to absorb a user’s sweat, to reduce the humidity and improve user’s thermal comfort. For this reason, different 3D warp knitted spacer fabrics were produced with functional fiber yarns in the back layer of the fabric (close to the body) and polyester in the front and middle layers (outer surface). Comfort properties such as air and water vapor permeability and wicking and other moisture management properties (MMP) of different fabric samples were measured. It is demonstrated that by using profiled fibers such as Coolmax fiber, moisture management properties of spacer fabrics can be improved, enabling them to be use as a snug-fitting shirt worn under protective vests with improved comfort.     

Effect of ultrasonic laundering on thermophysiological properties of knitted fabrics

The paper focuses on the application of ultrasonic energy in textile laundering. In recent years, there has been an increasing interest in ultrasonic energy application in textile industry; however, the effect of ultrasonic laundering on the thermophysiological properties of knitted fabrics has not been studied yet. This study was conducted by using polylactic acid (PLA), cotton, polyethylene terephthalate (PET), and poly acrylic (PAC) fibres containing yarns and their blends. Knitted fabrics, single pique, were made from these yarns by using weft knitting machine. The fabrics were washed ten times for 15 and 60 minutes under 40 °C by using conventional and ultrasonic washing methods. The main aim was to determine the effect of washing methods on the thermophysiological properties of the fabrics. It is also aimed to analyse and evaluate the thermophysiological properties of the PLA fabrics. The incorporation of 100 % PLA and cotton/PLA yarns into single pique knitted fabrics has been attempted to produce for the first time and studied their thermal comfort properties. The results show that the washing processes have a critical importance for the tested fabrics in terms of thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, thermal absorbtivity, water vapour permeability, and heat loss. It has been also demonstrated that the fabric cleaning by using ultrasonic method enhanced the properties of tested fabrics such as thermal conductivity and % recovery. It was also noted that 15 minutes ultrasonically washed fabrics had significantly lower thermal resistance as compared to conventionally washed fabrics.     

Static lateral compression of hemp/filament hybrid yarn knitted fabrics

The novel designed hemp/filament hybrid yarns were used to produce knitted fabrics in order to investigate the influence of the unique internal structure of hybrid yarns on compressional behavior of clothing textile materials. The knitted fabrics are subjected to successive compression-release cycles and the compression-release curves obtained made it possible to calculate the particular compression parameters such as recoverable and irrecoverable compression. By using the parameters the non-elastic deformation components (viscoelastic and plastic deformation) are determined. In spite of generally accepted fact that van Wyk’s theory has some limitations, since it does not explain the hysteresis caused by fiber slippage and friction effects, the two-parameter mechanical model derived from van Wyk’s compression theory is applied successfully to determine the compression hysteresis.     

Comparative study on the characteristics of knitted fabrics made of vortex-spun viscose yarns

Murata vortex spinning system is based on the air jet spinning system. The vast majority of previous works deal with the properties of vortex spun (VS) yarn and the spinning system. In this study, we investigated knitted fabrics from VS yarn in comparison with fabrics from ring (RS), compact (CS) and open-end rotor (OES) spun yarns made from viscose. The effect of yarn spinning system on dimensional and physical properties of knitted fabrics was explained with specific attention to fabrics from VS yarn. Shrinkage of fabrics from VS yarn has the lowest at widthwise direction, while having the highest at lengthwise direction. It is shown that the order of fabric spirality and twist liveliness for yarns from different spinning systems are quite similar. However, relation between loop shape factor and angle of spirality is inconsistent. Angle of spirality of fabrics from VS yarn is higher than fabrics from OES yarn, but lower than that of others. The bursting strength of fabrics from VS yarn is lower than that of those from RS and CS yarns and higher than that of those from OES yarn. From this study, it is also evident that fabrics from VS yarn have the lowest pilling tendency and highest resistance to abrasion.     

Compression properties of weft knitted fabrics consisting of shrinkable and non-shrinkable acrylic fibers

High-bulk worsted yarns with different shrinkable and non-shrinkable acrylic fibers blend ratios are produced and then single jersey weft knitted fabrics with three different structures and loop lengths are constructed. The physical properties of produced yarns and compression properties of produced fabrics at eight pressure values (50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, 1500 and 2000 g/cm²) were measured using a conventional fabric thickness tester. Then, weft-knitted fabric compression behavior was analyzed using a two parameters model. It is found that at 40% shrinkable fibre blending ratio the maximum yarn bulk, shrinkage, abrasion resistance and minimum yarn strength are obtained. It is also shown that high-bulk acrylic yarn has the highest elongation at 20% shrinkable fibre blend ratio. The statistical regression analysis revealed that the compression behavior of acrylic weft-knitted fabrics is highly closed to two parameter model proposed for woven fabrics. It is also shown that for weft-knitted structure, there is an incompressible layer (V′) which resists against high compression load. Acrylic weft-knitted fabrics with knit-tuck structure exhibit higher compression rigidity and lower softness than the plain and knitmiss structures. In addition, at 20% shrinkable fibre blend ratio, the high-bulk acrylic weft-knitted fabrics are highly compressible.     

The effects of wool surface characteristic on fuzzing and pilling of knitted fabrics

The fuzzing and pilling of untreated, chlorinated and oxidized wool knitted fabrics were compared with frictional coefficients measured by capstan method, surface modification observed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), the surface roughness and the scale height assessed by atomic force microscopy (AFM), and hairiness imaged on the three-dimensional rotational microscopy. The pilling comparative experiments of the corresponding knitted fabrics were conducted by means of Pillbox method. Experimental results showed that some scales on the oxidized fiber surface were partially cleaved and some grooves generated. With oxidization treatment, the anti- and with-scale of friction coefficient increase with decreasing the thickness of scales and the yarn hairiness. There is good correlation between the result of AFM and the change in frictional coefficients. The pilling grade of knitted fabric comprised of oxidization wool is 2.5, and the average numbers of pills per 25 cm² is 25. It is postulated that the surface topography, the frictional properties of oxidized wool fibers and surface hairs of corresponding yarns may limit the ability of those surface fibers to form fuzz and of those fuzz for pill formation.     

Effects of softeners and laundering on the handle of knitted PLA filament fabrics

We have studied the effects of softeners and repeated laundering on the handle of knitted fabrics constructed from poly(lactic acid) (PLA) filament yarns derived from corn-starch. The fabrics were assessed: a) subjectively, via a panel of volunteers, in terms of their perceived softness and ‘scroopiness’; and b) objectively, using a Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F), in terms of their low-stress mechanical properties. The study employed two fabric variants and a range of commercial softeners in an attempt to determine the combination that would provide optimal handle and durability to laundering. We found the standard KES-F parameters B, 2HB, G, 2HG, and SMD to be generally well-correlated with the subjective assessment of softness and scroopiness. Although repeated laundering reduced somewhat the beneficial effects of the softeners, this deterioration was not severe, and we were able to identify specific formulations that can provide good handle coupled with acceptable durability. The fabric handle was seen to be influenced by the chemical nature of the softening agent, the type of emulsion employed and the degree of hydrophobicity (assessed in terms of wettability); on the other hand, the ionicity of the softener appeared not to play a significant role.     

Physiological signal analyses of frictional sound by structural parameters of warp knitted fabrics

The purpose of this study is to offer acoustical database of warp knitted fabrics by investigating frictional sound properties and physiological responses according to structural parameters such as construction, lap form, and direction of mutual guide bar movement. Fabric sounds of seven warp knitted fabrics are recorded, and Zwicker’s psychoacoustic parameters — loudness(Z), sharpness(Z), roughness(Z), and fluctuation strength(Z) — are calculated. Also, physiological responses evoked by frictional sounds of warp knitted fabrics are measured such as electroencephalogram (EEG), the ratio of high frequency to low frequency (HF/LF), respiration rate (RESP), skin conductance level (SCL), and photoplethysmograph (PPG). In case of constructions, frictional sound of sharkskin having higher loudness(Z) and fluctuation strength(Z) increases RESP. By lap form, open lap has louder and larger fluctuating sound than closed lap, but there aren’t significant difference of physiological responses between open lap and closed lap. In direction of mutual guide bar movement, parallel direction evokes bigger changes of beta wave than counter direction because of its loud, rough, and fluctuating sound. Fluctuation strength(Z) and roughness(Z) are defined as important factors for predicting physiological responses in construction and mutual guide bar movement, respectively.     

Effect of hollow polyester fibres on mechanical properties of knitted wool/polyester fabrics

The physical and mechanical characteristics of hollow polyester fibres were compared with solid polyester fibres in order to establish their processing behaviour and performance characteristics. The effects of hollow fibres on fabric properties were investigated by using microscopy and tests of tensile and bursting strength, pilling, abrasion resistance, water vapour permeability, and handle. The results show that tensile strength of hollow polyester fibres and yarns are negatively affected by the cavity inside the fibre. Hollow fibres also have higher stiffness and resistance to bending at relaxed state. Fabrics made from hollow polyester/wool blends and pure wool fabrics show three distinguishable steps in pilling. During pilling, hollow fibres break before being pulled fully out of the structure, leading to shorter protruding fibres. Microscopy studies showed that the breakdown of hollow fibres started during entanglement by splitting along the helical lines between fibrils. KES results showed that the friction between fibres and the fibre shape are the most important parameters that determine the fabric low stress mechanical properties. However, in some aspects, the hollow structure of the fibre does not have a significant effect.     

Effect of filament size on the water transport of weft and warp knitted fabrics

Warp and weft knitted fabrics comprising polyethylene terephthalate/Co-PET sea-island bicomponent fibers were fabricated in this study. The knitted fabrics were treated in alkali solution to develop knitted fabrics composed of nano-scale filaments. The structural change and water transport behavior of the alkali-treated knitted fabrics were then compared. Results revealed that the filament diameters decreased from 20 µm to 850 nm after alkali treatment. The porosities of warp and weft knitted fabrics decreased by 4.8 % and 10.1 %, respectively, whereas their area densities increased by 68.8 % and 67.2 %, respectively. The wicking height and wicking rate of both types of fabric composed of microfilaments increased with prolonged alkali-treatment time. However, the water absorption properties such as absorption capacity and absorption rate of the knitted fabrics composed of nano-scale filaments significantly increased because of their low porosity and high area density.     

The influence of corona discharge treatment on the properties of cotton and polyester-cotton knitted fabrics

In this study, the effect of corona discharge treatment on the physical and mechanical properties of bleached cotton and polyester-cotton fabrics were investigated. For this purpose, the samples were treated by corona discharge at two levels of voltage 5 and 10 kV, and at various duration times of plasma, ca. 1.4, 2.1 and 3.5 min. The corona discharge treatment was applied on the fabric samples before and after bleaching treatment. The results show that the corona influences on the surface morphology, breaking strength, air permeability, abrasion resistance, and pilling of cotton and polyester-cotton fabrics. Moreover, the levels of voltage and duration of plasma have a different effect on the properties of fabrics.     

Performance of cotton single yarns and knitted fabrics produced by a 2-step spinning method

A low torque spinning method has been recently developed by integrating the ring spinning process with false twisting techniques. As a result of false twist and true twist, a novel single yarn of low torque and soft handle is generated. Based on the similar spinning principle, this paper proposed a 2-step spinning method, which is composed of twisting-anduntwisting operation and can be considered as a variant of the low torque spinning method. The proposed spinning method separates the false twisting process into twisting and untwisting processes which are combined in one step in the low torque spinning method. In this paper, physical properties of yarns produced by the proposed spinning method were evaluated and compared with the conventional yarns. Influences of various spinning parameters on the properties of 2-step yarns were also examined. Furthermore, a systematic study of the physical properties of the 2-step yarns and resultant fabrics with respect to the conventional and low torque ones was carried out. The experimental results showed that the 2-step yarns exhibit slightly higher tenacity, lower wet snarl and much less hairiness than the conventional yarns, which, however, are inferior to the low torque yarns, particularly the evenness. The fabrics made by the 2-step yarns show the softest handle feeling, best airpermeability and moderate spirality angle with acceptable pilling resistance.     

Color and whiteness properties of fabrics knitted from different hybrid core-spun yarns containing metal wire

In this study, the color and whiteness properties of fabrics knitted from ring, siro and compact core-spun yarns containing metal wire were investigated. In general, an increase in the metal ratio of yarns causes a decrease in the whiteness and color strengths of fabrics. In our study, spinning method had no statistically significant effect on either the T _w or K/S values of fabrics while the effect of spinning method on the whiteness index of fabrics was briefly observed. Fabrics knitted from siro spun yarns showed higher whiteness properties than those of fabrics knitted from compact and ring spun yarns. This might be explained by the superior covering effectiveness of the siro spinning method on metal wire.     

Investigation and modeling of air permeability of Cotton/Polyester blended double layer interlock knitted fabrics

The aim of this study was to analyze and model the effect of knitting parameters on the air permeability of Cotton/Polyester double layer interlock knitted fabrics. Fabric samples of areal densities ranging from 315–488 g/m² were knitted using yarns of three different cotton/polyester blends, each of two different linear densities by systematically varying knitting loop lengths for achieving different cover factors. It was found that by changing the polyester content in the inner and outer fabric layer from 52 to 65 % in the double layer knitted fabric did not have statistically significant effect on the fabric air permeability. Air permeability sharply increased with increase in knitting loop length owing to decrease in fabric areal density. Decrease in yarn linear density (tex) resulted in increase in air permeability due to decrease in areal density as well as the fabric thickness. It was concluded that response surface regression modeling could adequately model the effect of knitting parameters on the double layer knitted fabric air permeability. The model was validated by unseen data set and it was found that the actual and predicted values were in good agreement with each other with less than 10 % absolute error. Sensitivity analysis was also performed to find out the relative contribution of each input parameter on the air permeability of the double layer interlock knitted fabrics.     

Evaluation of comfort properties of polyester knitted spacer fabrics finished with water repellent and antimicrobial agents

In order to impart barrier properties against water and microorganisms on breathable three dimensional spacer fabrics as medical or technical textiles, fabric samples were treated with two water repellent agents and a quaternary ammonium salt namely cetyltrimethylammonium bromide (CTAB), using pad-dry-cure method. Two different water repellent agents based on hydrocarbon and acrylic copolymer were used. The water repellent property of samples was tested by Bundesmann and contact angle tests. Antimicrobial activity of samples was analyzed quantitatively according to AATCC 100. Simultaneous finishing of samples was done with 3 % CTAB and 4 % fluoroalkyl acrylic copolymer. To study the effect of various treatments on comfort related properties, air and water vapor permeability, water repellency and compression were measured. The results showed that the antimicrobial and water repellent spacer fabrics can be achieved applying selected material without significant changes on their comfort properties. Also a regression model was presented to predict the water vapour permeability of knitted spacer fabrics based on course density (CPC) changing.     

Comparison of regression and adaptive neuro-fuzzy models for predicting the bursting strength of plain knitted fabrics

The aim of this study was to compare the response surface regression and adaptive neuro-fuzzy models for predicting the bursting strength of plain knitted fabrics. The prediction models are based on the experimental data comprising yarn tenacity, knitting stitch length and fabric GSM as input variables and fabric bursting strength as output/response variable. The models quantitatively characterize the non-linear relationship and interactions between the input and output variables exhibiting very good prediction ability and accuracy, with ANFIS model being slightly better in performance than the regression model.