Weavability limit of yarns with thickness variation in shuttleless weaving

Theoretical weavability limit relationships of fabrics from regular warp yarns and fancy filling yarns with thickness variation in shuttleless weaving are reviewed. The relationships correlate maximum warp and filling cover factors, warp and filling yarn characteristics, the distribution of thick and thin places of filling yarn over the fabric surface, and the warp and filling weave factor. The research considers single filling feeder and multiple feeders cases. Additionally, comparisons between the weavability limit of regular yarns and fancy yarns in shuttle and shuttleless weaving are given.     

Enhanced visualization of simulated woven fabrics

The woven fabric graphics designed with available computer aided design (CAD) systems using different colored warp and weft yarns look quite different from the appearance of their actual fabrics. To enhance the visual effects of designed woven fabric graphics, this paper reports a modified CAD woven fabric system, which allows users to design a fabric using parameters including fabric weaves, yarn number, yarn material, fabric count, crimp shape of interwoven yarns, and illumination. This enhanced system can design both yarns and fabrics, and consider the transitional color effect around interweaving points of warp and weft yarns. Its simulation image quality of woven fabrics has been greatly improved, and several textile mills and universities are currently using this woven fabric design system.     

Engineering design of woven fabrics using non-traditional optimization methods: A comparative study

This work aims to design woven fabrics with desired quality at optimum manufacturing cost by choice of suitable weaving parameters such as count, crimp and thread spacing of warp and weft yarns. To fulfill this goal, we endeavor to devise search based non-traditional optimization methods such as genetic algorithm, particle swarm optimization and simulated annealing for efficiently finding the appropriate combination of weave parameters. The quick response capability of the non-traditional optimization methods would benefit the fabric manufacturers for efficient determination of the required weaving parameters to produce the engineered fabrics. The experimental validation confirms that the particle swarm optimization is most suitable technique for engineering design of woven fabrics.     

Effect of weaving process on tensile characterization of single and multiple ends of air-entangled textured polyester yarns

The tensile properties of air-entangled textured polyester single and multiple yarn ends before and after weaving were analyzed. The effects of weaving process considering fabric unit cell interlacement and number of yarn ends were evaluated by regression model. For this purpose, plain, ribs and satin woven fabrics were produced. The yarns were raveled from fabrics, and the tensile tests were applied to these yarns. The developed regression model showed that the number of interlacement and crimp ratio on the warp and weft yarns influence their tensile strength. Tensile strength of raveled yarns decreased compared to that of the bobbin yarn due to the effect of weaving process. This property degradation on the ravel yarns considered process degradation. Generally, when the number of warp and weft yarn ends increases, the warp and weft yarn tensile strengths for each fabric type decrease, whereas the warp and weft yarn tensile elongations slightly increase. The results from regression model were compared with the measured values. This study confirmed that the method in the study can be a viable and reliable tool. The research finding could be useful those who work on preform fabrication.     

Crimp analysis of worsted fabrics in the terms of fabric extension behaviour

Inside a woven fabric structure, warp and weft yarns acquire crimp as a result of yarns interlacing according to the weave pattern. Since warp and weft yarns are oriented in two perpendicular directions, applying tensile load in one direction causes extension in the load side and fabric contraction in the opposite direction. This process was investigated in this study by using an image processing procedure and it was found that fabric’s extension is in coincidence with yarn’s de-crimping process in the same direction. After the de-crimping stage, yarns in the load direction will be extended and at the same time crimp in the other direction will be increased, until jamming phenomenon happens in the fabric structure. The crimp interchange between warp and weft yarns follows a three-order polynomial function with a turning point in which the yarns in the load direction have no crimp.     

Mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for emotional garment to the rapier loom characteristics

This study examined the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics woven using various rapier weaving looms. For this purpose, the warp and weft yarn tensions during weaving were measured on the three types of rapier looms, and the fabric mechanical property changes due to the warp and weft tension differences were measured and analyzed according to the fabric position and particular rapier loom using the KES-FB system. The warp tension variation along the loom width direction in P-GTX loom showed the lowest value compared to FAST and THEMA looms. The warp tensions on the central part of the three types of looms were much higher than those on the left and right sides of the looms. The extensibility and bending rigidity of the fabric woven by P-GTX rapier loom showed lower values than those of FAST and THEMA looms, which appears to have originated from the low warp and weft weaving tensions of P-GTX rapier loom. On the other hand, the compressional property and shear modulus showed compromised results due to lateral deformation by compression and constraint deformation of the warp and weft by shear. The friction coefficient of the fabric surface woven by FAST loom showed the lowest value due to the flatter surface by the high warp tension. The mechanical properties of the fabric loaded by a high warp tension on the central part of the loom were also affected by the high weft yarn crimp due to the wider spacing between warp yarns by the higher warp tension during weaving, which makes the surface of the central part of the fabric flatter and smoother than the edge part of the fabric.     

A study on the structural properties of plain fabrics using the lenticular model

The structural properties of a plain fabric were considered using the lenticular model. The structure of a plain woven fabric can be defined in terms of warp yarn number, weft yarn number, warp fabric density, weft fabric density, warp crimp, and weft crimp. Many structural variables of the plain fabric could be calculated by the lenticular model using these terms. Also, this model can be used to explain the geometry of the flattened yarns that occur during the weaving process. Flattening factors of threads for various types of fibers were calculated, compared, and explained with the number of yarn twist. Flattening factors were found to affect the structural variables of the fabric such as fabric thickness, air permeability, and yarn crimp. Yarn crimp was also studied with variation of the structural variables of the fabric.     

New production method for a plain weave figured fabric

A new production method for figured fabric has been developed. The figured fabric generated in this study is a plain weave piled fabric and it shows the same figure on both sides unlike those fabrics woven on dobby or jacquard looms. It is woven by a specialty yarn called the chenille yarn which is obtained by separating each warp of a base fabric woven in leno structure. The base fabric is woven by inserting different colored weft each time in a certain sequence arranged according to the target figure image. A CAD software and a computerized controller have been developed to control all the motions of a conventional rapier loom and to handle the numerous weft insertion schedule efficiently.     

Evaluation of the structural properties of plain fabrics woven from various fibers using Peirce’s model

Peirce’s fabric model has been widely used to predict the structural behavior of various plain woven fabrics. The structure of plain woven fabric can be defined in terms of the warp yarn number, weft yarn number, warp fabric density, weft fabric density, warp crimp, and weft crimp. The warp and weft yarn diameters are calculated from the warp and weft yarn numbers, and the effective coefficient of the yarn diameter is defined by using this model. We have investigated structural properties, such as the effective coefficient of the yarn diameter, yarn crimp, and fabric thickness for two different fabrics in which the constituent yarns are assumed to be either incompressible or compressible. This model is also applied to various plain fabrics woven from cotton, rayon, wool, linen, nylon, acetate, polyester, and silk yarns.     

Assessing the relationship among fabric constructional parameters, fractional reflectances and cover factors of polyester fabrics by experimental and mathematical methods

This paper focuses on the assessment of the relation among constructional properties, fractional reflectances and cover factors of fabrics woven from polyester yarns. A novel equation for the calculation of the relation between fractional reflectance and fabric cover factor was proposed and the usage of the equation was assessed by reflectance measurements. 48 polyester fabrics having different constructional parameters were used and the fabrics differed from each other by their cover factors. The warp yarn type and count, warp density and warp yarn twist were the same but weft yarn count, weft yarn fiber count and weft density were different for the fabrics in the experimental sub-groups. The reflectance measurements were conducted on the pretreated but undyed fabric samples as well as on the individual yarn systems of the same fabrics. Fabrics with the same cover factors exhibited different fractional reflectances. Reflectances were found to be dependent on the cover factor as well as on yarn fiber fineness, yarn count, yarn density and fabric weave. The changes in crimp of the yarns according to different construction parameters also governed the changes in fractional reflectances of fabric surfaces. The proposed equation was tested according to different fabric construction parameters and it was concluded that fiber fineness and weave pattern were among the most important parameters which govern the total light reflectances from the fabric surfaces, although they are not incorporated in the calculation of the fabric cover factors. The proposed equation was used to explain the effects of these components on the reflectance behavior of the fabric surfaces and on fabric cover.     

The effect of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness of polyester fabrics

The effects of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness values of textured polyester woven fabrics with different constructional parameters were investigated. The warp yarn properties (type, count and warp density) were kept constant while the effect of variation in weft yarn density and weave pattern were studied. Measurements were conducted on pre-treated white fabric samples and the results assessed in relation to their constructional properties. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness values of polyester fabrics affected by fabric balance and fabric cover and the effects were related to fabric thickness, yarn densities, yarn crimp, positioning of yarns in fabric structure. A change in weave pattern from sateen to plain increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased the surface roughness. Similarly, an increase in weft density increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased surface roughness. In order to produce fabrics with smooth surface properties yarn density should be increased, yarn float lengths decreased, cover of fabrics increased and fabric balance improved.     

Assessment of color strength and color difference values of polyester fabrics containing continuous weft yarns after abrasion

This paper assesses the color difference and color strength values (K/S) obtained for eight disperse-dyed polyester fabric samples with different fabric construction parameters (weft yarn type, weft yarn count, weft density and fabric weave) after four sets of abrasion cycles. Warp yarn type and count, warp density, and warp yarn twist are the same for all fabrics. Fabric samples are dyed in a commercial red disperse dye (C.I. Disperse Red 74:1) and four different abrasion cycles (2500, 5000, 7500, 10000) are used. TheK/S values of the abraided fabrics and color difference values between the control fabric (dyed but not abraided) and abraded fabrics are calculated. The main differences in theK/S and color difference values are observed between 0–2500 abrasion cycles. The high tenacity of the polyester fibers and continuous polyester yarns causes some fuzz but no pilling formation on the fabric surface that lead to increasedK/S values and color differences. Fiber dullness, yarn thickness, yarn density and fabric weave are concluded to have different effects on the appearance after abrasion.     

The effect of twist liveliness on the woven fabric distortion

This paper deals with the grey fabric deformation during relaxation. It investigates the effect of twist direction and twist liveliness on the 2/2 twill weave woven fabric distortion, during relaxation This experimental work shows that twist liveliness increases the natural tendency of the twill weave woven fabric to skew. In addition when the twist direction of the warp and weft is opposite to each other the bias curling occurs too.     

Behaviour of the twill weave woven fabrics during relaxation

This work looks into the behaviour of the twill weave woven fabrics during relaxation (when the weaving tension is released). Ten, 50-metre rolls of twill weave woven fabrics were produced. The fabrics were marked in a rectangular form at the weaving loom. After 48 hours of relaxation, the new shapes and sizes were recorded. The shapes of almost all of the samples were changed to parallelogram, even though they differed in size. The work showed that the manner of fabric deformation during relaxation depends upon the fabric structure. It indicates that contraction due to relaxation of the twill weave causes the woven fabric to skew. in the direction of the twill. The quantity of the skewness is related to the float length andthe twill type. Fabrics with longer float length have higher skewness.     

Application of one-quarter fractional and full factorial design to study set mark phenomenon of multifilament polyester fabrics

Set marks are fabric defects in weft direction which are caused by an interruption of the weaving process. In this study, based on one-quarter fractional factorial design, among eight parameters of weaving machine, i.e. horizontal and vertical position of back rest roller, horizontal position of warp stop motion, shed crossing degree, shed crossing point position, warp tension, stoppage position of machine, and stoppage time, four most effective parameters was determined. These parameters were stoppage position of machine, vertical position of back rest roller, shed crossing point, and horizontal position of warp stop motion. Then using full factorial design effectiveness of these parameters was evaluated statistically at 99 % confidence level and effect of them on set mark studied in detail. Statistical evaluations showed that the stoppage position of machine was the most effective parameters on intensity of set mark of multifilament polyester fabric. A specific image capturing device for using on weaving machine based on CCD camera was designed. Image processing technique was used to measure the pickspacing in stop zone objectively. Five picks before and five picks after stoppage was considered as stop zone and the standard deviation of pickspacing was used as a criterion which interpret this defect. Dynamic loading of warp yarns were execute to evaluate the relaxation behavior of polyester multifilament warp yarns.     

Predicting tensile strength of yarns required for producing PET/Cotton blended woven fabrics of a pre-defined tensile strength

This study was aimed at developing statistical models for the prediction of tensile strength of warp and weft yarns required for attaining a pre-defined strength of PET/Cotton blended woven fabrics. The models were developed based on the empirical data obtained from carefully developed 234 fabric samples with different constructions using 15, 20, and 25 tex yarns in warp and weft directions. The prediction ability and accuracy of the developed models were assessed by correlation analyses of the predicted and actual warp and weft yarn strength values of another set of 36 fabric samples. The analyses showed a very strong ability and accuracy of the developed statistical prediction models.     

Influence of the deformation mode on seam slippage in woven fabrics

In the present study the influence of the deformation mode, of the specimen elongation deformation, of the fabrics?? weave type, of fabrics?? direction and of the position of seam allowances in respect to the stitching line on the seam slippage in the raw plain, twill and combined-twill weave fabrics was investigated. Fabrics were woven with the warp yarn of 20×2 tex 70 % cotton and 30 % PES blended 2-ply spun yarn and the weft yarn of 18 tex 100 % PES folded multifilament yarn using jacquard weaving machine ??Lindaucer DORNER GmbH??. Seam slippage of the investigated woven fabrics was determined using the new simple and compact technical device suitable to test fabrics for seam slippage property within five different deformation modes: an uniaxial tension of seams with opened seam allowances on the surface of metal table; an uniaxial tension of seams with bent to one side allowances in respect to stitching line on the surface of the metal table; an unrestricted uniaxial tension of seams; a bagging of seams with bent to one side allowances in respect to the stitching line using the plastic hollow cylinder; a bagging of seams with opened seam allowances using the plastic hollow cylinder. The results of the research had proved that seam slippage of the investigated woven fabrics was dependent on the deformation mode, on the elongation of sewn specimens, on the location of allowances in respect to the stitching line, on the fabric weave type as well as on the woven fabric direction.     

Handle,fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn woven stretch fabrics

Hybrid yarn was produced by twisting silk with nylon covered lycra yarn. Silk of 20 D in warp and hybrid yarn in weft was woven to develop lustrous woven stretch fabrics for sari blouse. Silk and hybrid yarn fabrics were produced in three different weaves namely plain, crepe and sateen. An in-depth study was carried out to understand the effect of weave on thermal comfort; low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties. Nine blouses (3 samples× 3 figures) were constructed from three different woven stretch materials for fit assessment and objective pressure comfort test. The effect of fabric weave, low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties on fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabrics were analyzed. Sateen weave silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabric shows higher total hand value, stretch properties and better thermal comfort properties. Sateen and crepe weave stretch fabrics provided good fit. Sateen weave fabric exerted lower clothing pressure value in the range of 3-12 mmHg at all body locations in standing position and in different postures.     

Investigating ballistic impact on fabric targets with gripping yarns

The purpose of the research is to investigate the fabric structure (with gripping yarns) in influencing ballistic performance aiming to improve the ballistic performance of the currently used body armour materials. Thirteen different fabrics having gripping yarn were designed along fabric warp and/or weft directions. Their ballistic performance in terms of energy absorption has been studied and comparisons made among the single layered fabrics and between the two double layered fabrics, as well as to the conventional used a plain woven fabric for both cases. It was found that fabrics with gripping yarns have improved fabric ballistic performance. The inter-jointed two-layer fabric performed better than the un-jointed two-layer fabric, and it showed a 16.6 % increase in the energy absorption. The implication of the research is that body armour can be made lighter without reducing ballistic impact performance by using gripping yarns.     

Effects of loom characteristics on the physical properties of PET fabrics for emotional clothing

The fabric defects complained by garment manufacturers are stop marks, streaky phenomena on the warp direction, thickness variation and color differences between edges on the right and left sides of the fabrics, which are partly due to the tension variation of warp and weft directions. It is well known that these defects are related to the difference of fabric mechanical property according to the loom characteristics and fabric position such as center and both edges parts of the fabric, which affect garment formability and wearing performance of garment. This research is focusing about which factor is dominant for the difference of fabric mechanical properties which affects garment formability and wearing performance between loom characteristic factor and fabric position factor such as center and both edges of the fabric, which is affected by warp and weft tensions. For this purpose, two kinds of looms were selected, and warp and weft tensions during weaving were measured and the mechanical properties of the fabrics woven by two kinds of looms such as tensile, bending, shear, compression and surface properties were also measured according to the positions such as center and both edge parts of the fabric. These fabric mechanical properties were examined with warp and weft tensions according to the looms and were also analyzed according to the positions of the fabric woven by two kinds of looms. The warp tension on the vicinity of center parts of the looms was much higher than those on the vicinity of both edges of looms. It revealed that the warp tension difference makes differences of fabric mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shear and surface properties except compressional property. And the differences of these mechanical properties according to the fabric positions and looms seem to make homogeneity of the fabric hand and tailorability of garment deteriorating.