Study on the natural dyeing of wool modified with enzyme

In this study, the natural pigment from sappan was used for the dyeing of wool fabrics after treatment with the protease and transglutaminase. The influences of protease and transglutaminase on the UV/visible absorption spectrum of aqueous extract of sappan were studied. The enzymatic modified wool was compared with non-modified wool in K/S value and fastness after direct dyeing and mordant dyeing. It was shown that protease and transglutaminase made the absorbance at the λ _max 540 nm in visible region increase. It suggested that there might be some interaction between the enzymes and sappan dye and the residual enzyme on wool fabric might affect the color of following dyeing. Compared to untreated wool, treatments with protease and transglutaminase enhance K/S value of wool dyed subsequently with sappan. Modification of protease led to some decrease in wet rubbing fastness, whereas transglutaminase had almost no influence on rubbing fastness. Enzymatic treatments have no influence on the washing fastness for samples dyed with sappan.     

Study on the dyeing properties of hemicyanine dyes. I. Acrylic fabrics

Three hemicyanine dyes were employed in dyeing acrylic fabrics following traditional cationic dyeing procedures. The influence of the substituting groups of the dye molecule on the sorption rate and sorption isotherms was analyzed. The results showed that those dyed acrylic fabrics using hemicyanine dyes had obvious fluorescent effect in the spectra range 550–750 nm. In addition, according to the EN-471 standard (2003), the chromaticity of dyed acrylic fabric was calculated to evaluate whether hemicyanine dye could meet the requirements of the fluorescent dye for high visibility warning clothing.     

Union dyeing of the photografted PET/wool blend fabrics with dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide

Dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide (DMAPMA) was grafted onto PET/wool blend fabrics by continuous UV irradiation. Union dyeing of the photografted fabrics was investigated using three reactive dyes of α-bromoacrylamide reactive groups. The influence of grafting yield, DMAPMA concentration, NaCl amount, pH value, and dyeing temperature on the dyeability was evaluated. The dyeability of both PET and wool components was improved significantly by the DMAPMA photografting and successive reactive dyeing. Although the dyeability of the PET component in the blend substantially was improved with higher grafting, equal dyeability between PET and wool was difficult to achieve due to more facile grafting and higher reactivity of the wool component compared with the modified PET component. However, the color fastness of the PET/wool blend fabric was excellent for all three colors. This study may offer a way to achieve union dyeing of PET/wool blend fabrics.     

LED-UV grafting of vinylsulfone dyes onto photo-oxidized wool fabrics

Photografting coloration of wool was carried out under UV-LED irradiation at room temperature using aqueous vinylsulfone dye solution containing vinylsulfonic acid as a comonomer. UV-LED irradiation of the 395 nm emission is more energy efficient, less damaging to the dyes, and much safer to human eyes compared with polychromatic mercury UV lamps. However, in case of the UV-LED lamps, the wool needs to be photo-oxidized either by UV/ozone or polychromatic UV irradiation before the dye photografting. The surface treatments increased the sulfur and oxygen contents in the modified wool surfaces. While the optimally photografted wool fabrics under the UV-LED lamp yielded a K/S value of 9.9, the K/S of the grafted wool increased to 25.2 and 13.6 after the UV/Ozone or polychromatic UV preoxidation at UV energies of 10.6 J/cm² and 25 J/cm² respectively. The color fastness properties of the photografted fabrics were far better than with those of the conventionally reactive-dyed fabrics, implying that the high-molecular-weight photografted dyes seemed to be more durable than the low-molecular dyes.     

Application of acacia natural dyes on cotton by pad dyeing

Coloration of textiles, traditionally achieved using natural dyes, commonly employs synthetic dyes at the industrial level. A revival of commercial interest in natural dyes has opened several research avenues. This paper investigates the application by padding of cotton fabric with 10 g/l of two natural dyes derived from the Acacia plant family. Three mordanting techniques were studied; of which post-mordanting produced the most even shade. Among the two mordants investigated, the use of copper sulfate resulted in a level beige shade at 15 g/l concentration while ferrous sulfate performed best at 5 g/l yielding a yellow-grey shade. An optimum process-sequence for the copper sulfate mordant was “pad (dye)→dry→steam followed by pad (mordant)→steam→dry”, and for ferrous sulfte it was “pad (dye)→steam→dry followed by pad (mordant)→steam→dry”. Typically a change in mordant resulted in a different shade with the same dye. The study concluded that padding is a readily adaptable process for the dyeing of cotton using natural dyes and acceptable fastness in shades can be obtained.     

Effect of laccase on dyeing properties of polyphenol-based natural dye for wool fabric

Chemical mordants are generally used during the dyeing process, to increase the uptake of natural dyes. Traditional mordants include metal salts, such as copper, iron, aluminum, chromium, and other metal ions. Continuous developments in bio-engineering technology focus on methods that lower the impact on the environment. In this regard, enzymatic processes show great promise in textile field, due to their efficacy, mild conditions, and environment friendly nature. Laccase is a multicopper oxidoreductase that catalyzes in-situ polymerization of small phenolic monomers to form a colorful polymer. In this study, effects of laccase treatment on the dyeing properties of wool fabrics, dyed with natural dyes (turmeric, grape seed extract, and Chinese gallnut), were investigated. The dyeing properties of the dyed wool fabrics were evaluated under different conditions, including laccase stoichiometry, temperature, pH, and reaction time. The structural changes of natural dyes, due to laccase catalyst were also examined by FT-IR. The results showed that laccase greatly influenced the dyeing performance of Chinese gallnut. Moreover, dyeing effects of the samples using post-mordanting method was better than the other two methods, under the same conditions. After laccase treatment, the dyeing properties of Chinese gallnut improved. Finally, factors affecting the dyeing process with Chinese gallnut were studied and the optimized conditions were determined through single-factor experiments.     

Ultrasound assisted extraction of natural dyes and natural mordants vis a vis dyeing

Most of the natural dyes require mordants for their fixation on textile materials. Natural mordants are thus gaining importance in order to get complete-natural dyeing. In the present work, natural dyes and mordants were extracted using conventional and ultrasound methods and comparative studies were made. The natural mordants namely harda and tamarind seed coat and natural dyes like turmeric, henna were extracted using conventional and ultrasound approaches and various extracts obtained were described in terms of their optical densities. In order to verify the extraction efficiencies, wool fabrics were dyed with extracts of various combinations of mordants/dyes and dyed fabrics were evaluated for their colour strengths and fastness properties. The extent of colour extraction was higher in case of ultrasound assisted extraction as compared to that of conventional method. The fabrics dyed using extracts of ultrasound method showed higher colour values as compared to those dyed using extracts from conventional methods thus confirming ultrasound as more efficient method of extraction.     

Cross-cultural study of color sensation and sensibility for Korean traditional fabrics with natural indigo dyeing

This study focused on fabric planning for environment-friendly fashion products for the international market. In order to achieve this objective, some Korean traditional fabrics (Mosee and Myungjoo) with natural indigo dye were selected and they were evaluated in terms of subjective color sensation and sensibility by two cultural groups (Korean and American college students). Also, color preference for the natural dye fabrics by each cultural group was predicted by colorimetric properties, color sensation, and color sensibility factors. Most bluish fabrics dyed with natural indigo colorants were likely to provide a cold and strong sensation. There were partially significant differences in terms of color sensation among six fabrics. The color sensibility for the naturally dyed fabrics was classified into three factors: ‘Classic’, Romantic’, and ‘Unique’. The color sensibility factor ‘Classic’ was the dominant factor for the naturally dyed fabrics with indigo colorant. There were cultural differences in terms of color sensation and color sensibility factors between Korean and American university students. Color preference of dyed fabrics with natural indigo was found to be influenced mainly by the color sensibility factors among colorimetric properties, color sensation, and color sensibility.     

Statistical optimization of wool dyeing with Alizarin Red S as a natural dye via central composite design

Recently a revival interest in the use of natural dyes in textile coloration has been growing. The major parts of natural dyes are anthraquinones. Depending on substituents, anthraquinone compounds are dyes, as represented by Alizarin Red S (ARS) which is a major constituent of the natural colorant madder. In this study, colorization of wool fiber by ARS as a natural dye was studied. The progress of the colorization process was followed spectrophotometrically at 500 nm as λ _max. The effective factors on the process were investigated using one factor at a time (OFT) method. Then, the central composite design (CCD) method was applied to design experiments for the evaluation of the interactive effects of the four most important operating variables. The values of the optimized factors for OFT and CCD methods in wool dyeing with ARS were respectively as follow: temperature 70 °C and 55 °C, L/R: 40/1 and 40/2, pH 5.0 and 2.5 and time 60.0 min and 42.0 min. The predicted results by CCD had significantly higher exhaustion percentages and relatively better fastness properties than OFT and were found to be in a good agreement (R²=0.9908) with those obtained by performing experiments. Finally, the obtained results were shown a good wash fastness for dyed wool with ARS.     

Reactive dyeing of meta-aramid fabrics photografted with dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide

Aramid fibers have been known to difficult to dye with conventional dyes and dyeing techniques because of its extremely high crystallinity and compactness. In order to make the aramid fibers dyeable to a bright color in deep shade, meta-aramid fabrics were photografted under continuous UV irradiation with dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide (DMAPMA) and benzophenone as a monomer and a hydrogen-abstractable photoinitiator respectively. Several factors affecting the photografting treatment of the meta-aramid fabrics were investigated including monomer and photoinitiator concentrations. ATR, ESCA and SEM analysis indicated significant alterations on the chemical structure and atomic composition of the photografted fabric surface and the fabric surface was covered with the grafted polymers. While the pristine meta-aramid fabrics showed no appreciable dyeability to the α-bromoacrylamide type reactive dyes, the grafted aramid fabrics showed the remarkably enhanced dyeability to the reactive dyes, which was proportional to the graft yield indicating the covalent bond formation between the dyes and the secondary amino groups in the grafted DMAPMA. In case of C.I. Reactive Red 84, a K/S value of 14.8 can be obtained with the grafted meta-aramid fabrics with a graft yield of 7.6 % (w/w). Also and the color fastness properties of the dyed fabrics was excellent in the conditions of washing, rubbing and solar irradiation.     

<Emphasis Type="Italic">Limoniastrum monopetalum</Emphasis> stems as a new source of natural colorant for dyeing wool fabrics

In the present study, an attempt has been made to dye the wool fabric with Limoniastrum monopetalum stems, as a source of natural dye, which has not been exploited so far. Optimization of extraction parameters was done. Optimum results of extraction process were obtained with a dye concentration of 60 g/l, a temperature of 90 °C during 100 min. The study of different factors effecting dyeability of wool fabrics by aqueous L. monopetalum stems extract showed that the pH of dye bath and dyeing temperature and time affected considerably the color yield. The best results were obtained at the following conditions; pH 2, 100 °C, and 60 min. Metal mordants, when used in conjunction with L. monopetalum dye, allowed to obtain various shades. The determination of phenolic contents of aqueous L. monopetalum stems extract showed a high amount of phenolic components. Based on RP-HPLC, the coloring extract of L. monopetalum stems contains tannins and polyphenols. The major identified phenolic compounds were procatechuic, Trans-cinnamic and gallic acids. Hence, aqueous L. monopetalum stems extract could be successfully exploited for dyeing wool fabrics with high color yield (K/S).     

Effects of low temperature plasma on wool and wool/nylon blend dyed fabrics

Knitted wool and wool/nylon blend dyed fabrics were treated with low temperature plasma (LTP) to achieve optimum shrink-resistance without impairing surface topography, colour or fastness to washing of the fabrics. As LTP tends to impair handle of the fabrics, both wool and wool/nylon blend fabrics were submitted to industrial softening and/or biopolymer treatments after LTP treatment, leading to hydrophilic wool and wool/nylon blend fabrics with improved shrink-resistance without any colour changes and good fastness to washing. The results obtained were compared with those obtained by an industrial shrink-resist treatment.     

Synthesis and spectral characterization of novel azomethine disperse dyes derived from pyrazolone moiety and their dyeing performance on polyester fabrics

A series of new azomethine dyes based on pyrazolone system have been synthesized via different routes. The solvatochromism for the dyes was evaluated with respect to spectroscopic properties in various solvents. The dyes were applied as disperse dyes on polyester fabrics and gave shade poor to excellent light fastness, washing, perspiration, sublimation, and rubbing fastness properties. Also the position of color in CIELAB coordinates (L*, a*, b*) and K/S value were investigated.     

Effect of enzymatic treatment on the dyeing properties of protein wool fibers

Two proteolytic enzymes were used as auxiliaries in the dyeing of wool fabrics with acid dyes. The effect of the enzymes on dye exhaustion (%E) and dye uptake (K/S) was studied at 70, 85, and 98 °C and compared to the corresponding values obtained for the control samples which were dyed without enzymes under the same conditions. Two commercially available dyeing auxiliaries commonly used for the dyeing of wool at low temperatures were also used under the same conditions and compared with the dyeings made with and without enzymes. Treatment with transglutaminase was done in order to compensate the damaging effects of protease. The study shows that the enzymes could be used as auxiliaries in the dyeing of wool at lower temperatures.     

Properties of basic dyes on polyacrylonitrile treated m-aramid fabrics

Treatment of polyacrylonitrile (PAN) onto m-aramid fabric was carried out by pad-dry-cure method using dimethylformamide (DMF) dissolved acrylic fiber solution. The obtained PAN treated m-aramid fabric was dyed using exhaustion method with basic dyes. The effect of PAN treatment on fabric stiffness property was acceptable with acrylic fiber solutions ranging from 1 wt% to 4 wt%. Whilst, more than 4 wt% PAN treated fabrics exhibited undesirable stiffness. The dyeing results showed that PAN treated m-aramid fabrics exhibited a significant increase in color strength when compared to untreated fabric, arising from an increase in anionic dye sites (styrene SO₃ ^? group). Wash fastness was comparable to that of untreated fabric, indicating the strong interaction between dye molecules and the PAN. Rubbing fastness of treated fabrics was not affected by treatments with PAN concentrations lower than 4 wt%. Further increase in PAN concentration led to poorer rubbing fastness property due to the problem of surface dyeing. For light fastness, the PAN treatment failed to improve the light fastness property which is the main disadvantage of basic dyeing of aramid fabric. Finally, in case of PAN treatments with the range of 1 wt% to 4 wt%, the flame retardancy property of PAN treated m-aramid fabrics was found not affected by the percent add-on. However, above 4 wt% PAN treatment, the flame retardancy performance became deteriorated.     

Effect of pigment particle character on dyeing performance of cotton fabrics

The cotton fabrics were dyed by exhaust method using the pigment dispersions as colorant, and meanwhile the effects of particle character on dyeing performance were further investigated. The results showed that the larger zeta potentials, the higher K/S value, pigment uptakes, rubbing and washing fastness of the dyed cotton fabrics were. Adsorption isotherms were belonging to Langmuir type when zeta potentials were about 0.46 mV and 31.39 mV respectively. The cotton fabrics that dyed by the pigment dispersions with small particles had high K/S value, rubbing and washing fastness. The chemical structure of pigment had little influence on pigment uptakes, and all kind of pigment dispersions reach to 98 % uptakes after 30 min but exhibit various uptake rates at initial stage.     

Effect of using cold plasma on dyeing properties of polypropylene fabrics

The low temperature plasma (LTP) technique is used widely to modify polymer and textile materials. This paper describes the development of a plasma system for textile treatment. Polypropylene (PP) has a very low value of the surface free energy (approximately 20–25 mJ/m²). Due to low surface energy, Polypropylene has very weak hydrophilic properties. By controlling the plasma variables, such as the nature of gas, the discharge power, the pressure and the exposure time, a great variety of surface effects can be generated. In this paper, we report the effect of cold plasma of O₂ and N₂ gases at various time of exposure on the dyeing and physical properties of PP fabrics. The results show a significant increase in the color depth upon dyeing after treating PP fabrics with low temperature plasma of O₂ and N₂. For comparing the amount of fabrics dye exhaustion, we have used reflective spectrophotometer. The morphology of the modified surfaces has also been investigated using scanning electron microscopy (SEM). And also FTIR was used to examine the functional groups of the corresponding samples.     

Isolation, identification and dyeing studies of betanin on modified acrylic fabrics

Mature red fruits of Opuntia ficus-indica contain two soluble pigment, betanin and indicaxanthin. The optimal conditions for dye extraction were to mix 50 g of juice from cactus pears with 100 mL of acidified water as solvent for dye extraction. Two main dyes were purified from the pigment extract by chromatography and identified by UV-vis, HPLC and LC-MS techniques as indicaxanthin (15 mg per 100 g) and betanin (280 mg per 100 g). The effect of dye bath pH, salt concentration, dyeing time and temperature was studied. The optimal conditions for dyeing modified acrylic fabrics with betanin dye were carried out at 50 °C for 45 min at pH 5. Un-mordanted samples have good properties of water and washing fastness. Mordant CoSO₄ was found to give good light fastness (rating 5).     

Extraction, identification and dyeing studies of Isosalipurposide, a natural chalcone dye from Acacia cyanophylla flowers on wool

A chalcone compound Isosalipurposide 1 was qualitatively isolated from Acacia cyanophylla yellow flowers. The dyeing of wool fabrics with this chalcone compound as a natural dye has been studied. The effect of dye bath pH and dyeing temperature were investigated. The obtained shades were bright with generally a good fastness. A post-mordanting method was used in the dyeing of wool with this chalcone dye. It was found that, generally, mordanting improved light fastness especially in the case of zinc sulphate.     

Application of liquid organic salt to cotton dyeing process with reactive dyes

Reactive dyes are used widely in cotton dyeing process. Reactive dyeing uses high amounts of inorganic salts to accelerate dye exhaustion. These salts are then discharged to the effluent, leading to serious environmental problems. Biodegradable organic salts can alternatively be used in the dyeing process. In this paper, a new liquid organic salt was synthesized by acid-base neutralization, which was used to replace inorganic salts in reactive dyeing. Dye exhaustion in organic salt dyeing was similar to the values in conventional dyeing. However, dye fixations were slightly lower in organic salt dyeing than in conventional dyeing. The washing fastness of dyed fabrics with organic salt was excellent. Experimental results showed that dye exhaustion reached the maximum value when the concentration range of organic salt was from 20 g/l to 40 g/l. In addition, the optimal alkali concentration in organic salt dyeing was found to be about 30 g/l. These parameters suggested organic salt could replace inorganic salt in reactive dyeing process.