Study on the dyeing of wool fabrics with Phytolacca berry natural dyes

Dyeing of wool fabrics with natural dyes from Phytolacca berries has been studied. The effect of dye concentration, dye bath pH, dyeing time and temperature were discussed. The influence of chitosan application on the dyeing properties of wool fabrics was investigated. The SEM photographs of chitosan treated wool fabrics clearly depict the deposition of chitosan on the fibers. The effect of chitosan concentration, dye bath pH, dyeing time and temperature has been studied by orthogonal experiment. It has been proved that the dyed wool samples pretreated by chitosan have higher color fastness, faster dyeing rate, and better antibacterial properties compared with untreated ones.     

Effect of laccase on dyeing properties of polyphenol-based natural dye for wool fabric

Chemical mordants are generally used during the dyeing process, to increase the uptake of natural dyes. Traditional mordants include metal salts, such as copper, iron, aluminum, chromium, and other metal ions. Continuous developments in bio-engineering technology focus on methods that lower the impact on the environment. In this regard, enzymatic processes show great promise in textile field, due to their efficacy, mild conditions, and environment friendly nature. Laccase is a multicopper oxidoreductase that catalyzes in-situ polymerization of small phenolic monomers to form a colorful polymer. In this study, effects of laccase treatment on the dyeing properties of wool fabrics, dyed with natural dyes (turmeric, grape seed extract, and Chinese gallnut), were investigated. The dyeing properties of the dyed wool fabrics were evaluated under different conditions, including laccase stoichiometry, temperature, pH, and reaction time. The structural changes of natural dyes, due to laccase catalyst were also examined by FT-IR. The results showed that laccase greatly influenced the dyeing performance of Chinese gallnut. Moreover, dyeing effects of the samples using post-mordanting method was better than the other two methods, under the same conditions. After laccase treatment, the dyeing properties of Chinese gallnut improved. Finally, factors affecting the dyeing process with Chinese gallnut were studied and the optimized conditions were determined through single-factor experiments.     

Statistical optimization of wool dyeing with Alizarin Red S as a natural dye via central composite design

Recently a revival interest in the use of natural dyes in textile coloration has been growing. The major parts of natural dyes are anthraquinones. Depending on substituents, anthraquinone compounds are dyes, as represented by Alizarin Red S (ARS) which is a major constituent of the natural colorant madder. In this study, colorization of wool fiber by ARS as a natural dye was studied. The progress of the colorization process was followed spectrophotometrically at 500 nm as λ _max. The effective factors on the process were investigated using one factor at a time (OFT) method. Then, the central composite design (CCD) method was applied to design experiments for the evaluation of the interactive effects of the four most important operating variables. The values of the optimized factors for OFT and CCD methods in wool dyeing with ARS were respectively as follow: temperature 70 °C and 55 °C, L/R: 40/1 and 40/2, pH 5.0 and 2.5 and time 60.0 min and 42.0 min. The predicted results by CCD had significantly higher exhaustion percentages and relatively better fastness properties than OFT and were found to be in a good agreement (R²=0.9908) with those obtained by performing experiments. Finally, the obtained results were shown a good wash fastness for dyed wool with ARS.     

Effect of enzymatic treatment on the dyeing properties of protein wool fibers

Two proteolytic enzymes were used as auxiliaries in the dyeing of wool fabrics with acid dyes. The effect of the enzymes on dye exhaustion (%E) and dye uptake (K/S) was studied at 70, 85, and 98 °C and compared to the corresponding values obtained for the control samples which were dyed without enzymes under the same conditions. Two commercially available dyeing auxiliaries commonly used for the dyeing of wool at low temperatures were also used under the same conditions and compared with the dyeings made with and without enzymes. Treatment with transglutaminase was done in order to compensate the damaging effects of protease. The study shows that the enzymes could be used as auxiliaries in the dyeing of wool at lower temperatures.     

Union dyeing of the photografted PET/wool blend fabrics with dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide

Dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide (DMAPMA) was grafted onto PET/wool blend fabrics by continuous UV irradiation. Union dyeing of the photografted fabrics was investigated using three reactive dyes of α-bromoacrylamide reactive groups. The influence of grafting yield, DMAPMA concentration, NaCl amount, pH value, and dyeing temperature on the dyeability was evaluated. The dyeability of both PET and wool components was improved significantly by the DMAPMA photografting and successive reactive dyeing. Although the dyeability of the PET component in the blend substantially was improved with higher grafting, equal dyeability between PET and wool was difficult to achieve due to more facile grafting and higher reactivity of the wool component compared with the modified PET component. However, the color fastness of the PET/wool blend fabric was excellent for all three colors. This study may offer a way to achieve union dyeing of PET/wool blend fabrics.     

Sonicator dyeing of modified cotton, wool and silk with Mahonia napaulensis DC. and identification of the colorant in Mahonia

Mahonia napaulensis DC. (local name—Taming) family Berberidaceae, produces natural dye from its stem which has been used for dyeing textiles by the Apatanis (a tribe of Arunachal Pradesh) since ancient times. Sonicator dyeing with Mahonia napaulensis showed marked improvement in dye uptake. It showed that pretreatment with metal mordant (2%, w/w with respect to the fabric) improved substantially the fastness properties for dyed cotton, silk fabrics and wool yarn. Five fractions were isolated from column chromatography of the stem extract of Mahonia. Attempts have been made to identify these fractions by matching the spectral data which indicated that they were from a well-known isoquinoline alkaloid family.     

Extraction, identification and dyeing studies of Isosalipurposide, a natural chalcone dye from Acacia cyanophylla flowers on wool

A chalcone compound Isosalipurposide 1 was qualitatively isolated from Acacia cyanophylla yellow flowers. The dyeing of wool fabrics with this chalcone compound as a natural dye has been studied. The effect of dye bath pH and dyeing temperature were investigated. The obtained shades were bright with generally a good fastness. A post-mordanting method was used in the dyeing of wool with this chalcone dye. It was found that, generally, mordanting improved light fastness especially in the case of zinc sulphate.     

Dye-resist properties of hetero-multifunctional dye-resist agents in acid dyeing of wool

The dye-resist effect and leveling properties of hetero-mulifunctional dye-resist agents in acid dyeing of wool were investigated. The dye-resist agent with dichlorotriazinyl group achieved better resist effectiveness than those with monochlorotriazinyl group. The resist effectiveness was improved by increasing the number of sulfonate group in dye-resist agents. Also, the resist agents with more sulfonate groups showed better dye-assist effectivness, attributable to the increased electrostatic attraction between dye-resist agents and the cationic dye. However, the leveling properties of dye-resist agents decreased with the number of sulfonate groups in the molecule.     

Application of silver nanoparticles as an antibacterial mordant in wool natural dyeing: Synthesis,antibacterial activity,and color characteristics

Madder is a natural colorant which is commonly applied with metal salts as a mordant to improve its affinity to fibers and color fastness. Madder produces an insoluble complex or lake in the presence of metal ions on mordanted fabric. In this study, wool fabric was pretreated with AgNPs (silver nanoparticles) as a mordant, then dyed with madder. The wool fabric samples were examined by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and their colorimetric characteristics were evaluated. The formation of spherical silver nanoparticle was confirmed using UV-Visible spectroscopy, SEM images, and elemental analysis. The average size of synthesized silver nanoparticles on the surface of wool fibers is around 73 nm. The dyed wool samples were pretreated with different concentration of Ag⁺ ions or AgNPs, which showed higher color strength value compared to untreated dyed wool fabric. This pretreatment also presented good antibacterial activity.     

Proteolytic enzymes reactions on wool yarn and surfactants effects on the enzyme treatment

In this study, the effects of enzymes on wool yarn in the presence of different salts (ammonium sulfate, sodium tetraborate, and di-sodium hydrogen phosphate) were investigated. Alcalase 2,5 LDX and Savinase 16 LEX were selected as proteolytic enzymes. In addition, the effects of surfactants (Sandozin NRW, Irgasol NA, Erkantol NR, and Sandozin EH) on the enzyme treatment of wool yarn were evaluated. The results indicated that the effects of enzymes on wool yarn were greatest in the presence of sodium tetraborate. Furthermore, the properties of wool yarn such as weight loss, strength loss, and hairiness were influenced by these surfactants. The SEM images of the treated samples confirmed the obtained results.     

Application of acacia natural dyes on cotton by pad dyeing

Coloration of textiles, traditionally achieved using natural dyes, commonly employs synthetic dyes at the industrial level. A revival of commercial interest in natural dyes has opened several research avenues. This paper investigates the application by padding of cotton fabric with 10 g/l of two natural dyes derived from the Acacia plant family. Three mordanting techniques were studied; of which post-mordanting produced the most even shade. Among the two mordants investigated, the use of copper sulfate resulted in a level beige shade at 15 g/l concentration while ferrous sulfate performed best at 5 g/l yielding a yellow-grey shade. An optimum process-sequence for the copper sulfate mordant was “pad (dye)→dry→steam followed by pad (mordant)→steam→dry”, and for ferrous sulfte it was “pad (dye)→steam→dry followed by pad (mordant)→steam→dry”. Typically a change in mordant resulted in a different shade with the same dye. The study concluded that padding is a readily adaptable process for the dyeing of cotton using natural dyes and acceptable fastness in shades can be obtained.     

Optimization of dyeing condition for wool/cotton union fabric with direct dye using box-behnken design

Wool/cotton union fabric was dyed with a direct dye in union shade. The dyeing was performed in a single bath in relation to four factors: leveling agent (Lyogen SMKI, 0–1.5 % oww), electrolyte (sodium sulfate, 0–10 %), dyeing temperature (85–95 °C), and dyeing time (15–60 min). The dyeing was characterized by dye bath exhaustion (%), color strength (K/S value), washing fastness, and light fastness of dyed sample. Response surface analysis showed that the exhaustion of direct dye increased with electrolyte, dyeing temperature, and dyeing time while the K/S value followed a linear shape with leveling agent and dyeing temperature. An optimized recipe was formulated based on response surface strategy and numerical optimization solution.     

Dyeing properties and colour fastness of wool dyed with indicaxanthin natural dye

This research work involves the dyeing of wool with indicaxanthin, a natural dye extracted from fruits of Opuntia ficus-indica. The optimal conditions for dye extraction were to mix 50 g of Juice from cactus pears with 100 mL of 80% aqueous ethanol as solvent for dye extraction. Liquid chromatography was applied for the separation. Two main dyes were obtained, which were identified as indicaxanthin (75 mg per 50 g) and betanin (5 mg per 50 g). The effect of dye bath pH, salt concentration, dyeing time and temperature were studied. The optimal conditions for wool dyeing with indicaxanthin dye were carried out at 70 °C for 90 min with the pre-treatment of various metal salts as mordant. The colour yields of the dye on the wool were found to be highly dependent of the pH, optimum results being obtained at pH 4. The K/S of wool increased in the order of the dyeing using KAl (SO₄)₂ > MnSO₄ > CoSO₄ > FeSO₄ > none > ZnSO₄ > CuSO₄. Un-mordanted samples have good properties of water and washing fastness. Mordants KAl (SO₄)₂ and CoSO₄ were found to give good light fastness (rating 5).     

Ultrasound assisted extraction of natural dyes and natural mordants vis a vis dyeing

Most of the natural dyes require mordants for their fixation on textile materials. Natural mordants are thus gaining importance in order to get complete-natural dyeing. In the present work, natural dyes and mordants were extracted using conventional and ultrasound methods and comparative studies were made. The natural mordants namely harda and tamarind seed coat and natural dyes like turmeric, henna were extracted using conventional and ultrasound approaches and various extracts obtained were described in terms of their optical densities. In order to verify the extraction efficiencies, wool fabrics were dyed with extracts of various combinations of mordants/dyes and dyed fabrics were evaluated for their colour strengths and fastness properties. The extent of colour extraction was higher in case of ultrasound assisted extraction as compared to that of conventional method. The fabrics dyed using extracts of ultrasound method showed higher colour values as compared to those dyed using extracts from conventional methods thus confirming ultrasound as more efficient method of extraction.     

Isolation, identification and dyeing studies of betanin on modified acrylic fabrics

Mature red fruits of Opuntia ficus-indica contain two soluble pigment, betanin and indicaxanthin. The optimal conditions for dye extraction were to mix 50 g of juice from cactus pears with 100 mL of acidified water as solvent for dye extraction. Two main dyes were purified from the pigment extract by chromatography and identified by UV-vis, HPLC and LC-MS techniques as indicaxanthin (15 mg per 100 g) and betanin (280 mg per 100 g). The effect of dye bath pH, salt concentration, dyeing time and temperature was studied. The optimal conditions for dyeing modified acrylic fabrics with betanin dye were carried out at 50 °C for 45 min at pH 5. Un-mordanted samples have good properties of water and washing fastness. Mordant CoSO₄ was found to give good light fastness (rating 5).     

Improvement in fastness properties of phase-change material applied on surface modified wool fabrics

The comfort of textiles is important and one area under evaluation is the development and application of Phase Change Materials, PCMs, in order to impart thermal adaptability. PCMs research for textiles has also focused on the use of polyethylene glycol (PEG). While there is a good adhesion between fibre and PEG polymer for cotton and polyester fibres, polymer adhesion to wool fibres appears poor and loosely bound within the yarn and had dislodged and crumbled. Therefore in this paper, the effect of changing the wool fibre surface energy and surface charge, shrinkproofing, on performance properties of thermally adaptable wool fabrics were studied. Untreated, gaseous fluorinated, as well as Chlorine-Hercosett treated 100 % wool fabrics have been evaluated to obtain highly cross-linked PEG with acceptable fastness properties. The surface interface was effectively probed by XPS & ToF-SIMS and characterised the loss of surface lipids, the nature of the fibre oxidation and deposition of Hercosett polymer on the wool fibre. The results indicate the necessity of having high surface energy in order to obtain appropriate adhesion and binding higher amount of solid polymer to wool fibres which results in superior thermal activity, better durability, and enhancement in felting performance.     

Properties of wool/spandex core-spun yarn produced on modified woolen spinning frame

Spandex has been successfully applied on modified worsted spinning system to produce spandex core spun yarn. However it’s difficult to produce wool/spandex core-spun yarn on woolen spinning system with the same modified device because the drafting device of the two systems is quite different. A new method is introduced to apply spandex on woolen spinning system in this paper. Core-spun yarn produced in this way has good appearance and quality by comparing with normal yarn. A series of experiments were carried out to study the influence of spandex drafting ratio and yarn twist factor on tensile properties and elasticity of core-spun yarns. The results indicate that core-spun yarn with spandex drawing ratio of 2.5 and twist factor of 13.63 has highest value of tenacity and breaking elongation.     

<Emphasis Type="Italic">Limoniastrum monopetalum</Emphasis> stems as a new source of natural colorant for dyeing wool fabrics

In the present study, an attempt has been made to dye the wool fabric with Limoniastrum monopetalum stems, as a source of natural dye, which has not been exploited so far. Optimization of extraction parameters was done. Optimum results of extraction process were obtained with a dye concentration of 60 g/l, a temperature of 90 °C during 100 min. The study of different factors effecting dyeability of wool fabrics by aqueous L. monopetalum stems extract showed that the pH of dye bath and dyeing temperature and time affected considerably the color yield. The best results were obtained at the following conditions; pH 2, 100 °C, and 60 min. Metal mordants, when used in conjunction with L. monopetalum dye, allowed to obtain various shades. The determination of phenolic contents of aqueous L. monopetalum stems extract showed a high amount of phenolic components. Based on RP-HPLC, the coloring extract of L. monopetalum stems contains tannins and polyphenols. The major identified phenolic compounds were procatechuic, Trans-cinnamic and gallic acids. Hence, aqueous L. monopetalum stems extract could be successfully exploited for dyeing wool fabrics with high color yield (K/S).     

Cross-cultural study of color sensation and sensibility for Korean traditional fabrics with natural indigo dyeing

This study focused on fabric planning for environment-friendly fashion products for the international market. In order to achieve this objective, some Korean traditional fabrics (Mosee and Myungjoo) with natural indigo dye were selected and they were evaluated in terms of subjective color sensation and sensibility by two cultural groups (Korean and American college students). Also, color preference for the natural dye fabrics by each cultural group was predicted by colorimetric properties, color sensation, and color sensibility factors. Most bluish fabrics dyed with natural indigo colorants were likely to provide a cold and strong sensation. There were partially significant differences in terms of color sensation among six fabrics. The color sensibility for the naturally dyed fabrics was classified into three factors: ‘Classic’, Romantic’, and ‘Unique’. The color sensibility factor ‘Classic’ was the dominant factor for the naturally dyed fabrics with indigo colorant. There were cultural differences in terms of color sensation and color sensibility factors between Korean and American university students. Color preference of dyed fabrics with natural indigo was found to be influenced mainly by the color sensibility factors among colorimetric properties, color sensation, and color sensibility.