Ultrasonic dyeing of cationized cotton fabric with natural dye. Part 2: Cationization of cotton using Quat 188

The dyeing of cationized cotton fabric with 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride 69% (Quat 188) using Cochineal dye was studied using both conventional and ultrasonic techniques. Factors affecting dye extraction and dye bath exhaustion were investigated. The results indicated that the dye extraction by ultrasound at 300 W was more effective at lower temperatures and times than conventional extraction. Also, the colour strength values obtained were found to be higher with ultrasound than with conventional techniques. However, the results showed that the fastness properties of the dyed fabrics with ultrasound are similar to those of the conventional dyed fabrics. The scanning electron microscope (SEM) and X-ray diffraction (XRD) were measured for cationized cotton fabrics dyed with both conventional and ultrasound techniques, thus showing the sonicator efficiency.     

Effect of laccase on dyeing properties of polyphenol-based natural dye for wool fabric

Chemical mordants are generally used during the dyeing process, to increase the uptake of natural dyes. Traditional mordants include metal salts, such as copper, iron, aluminum, chromium, and other metal ions. Continuous developments in bio-engineering technology focus on methods that lower the impact on the environment. In this regard, enzymatic processes show great promise in textile field, due to their efficacy, mild conditions, and environment friendly nature. Laccase is a multicopper oxidoreductase that catalyzes in-situ polymerization of small phenolic monomers to form a colorful polymer. In this study, effects of laccase treatment on the dyeing properties of wool fabrics, dyed with natural dyes (turmeric, grape seed extract, and Chinese gallnut), were investigated. The dyeing properties of the dyed wool fabrics were evaluated under different conditions, including laccase stoichiometry, temperature, pH, and reaction time. The structural changes of natural dyes, due to laccase catalyst were also examined by FT-IR. The results showed that laccase greatly influenced the dyeing performance of Chinese gallnut. Moreover, dyeing effects of the samples using post-mordanting method was better than the other two methods, under the same conditions. After laccase treatment, the dyeing properties of Chinese gallnut improved. Finally, factors affecting the dyeing process with Chinese gallnut were studied and the optimized conditions were determined through single-factor experiments.     

Dyeing, fastness, and deodorizing properties of cotton, silk, and wool fabrics dyed with gardenia, coffee sludge, Cassia tora. L., and pomegranate extracts

Four kinds of natural dying solutions (natural colorant extracts) were obtained by extraction from gardenia, coffee sludge, Cassia tora. L., and pomegranate using water at 90°C for 90 min with a liquor ratio (solid natural colorant material/solvent water, weight ratio) of 1/10. The dyeing, colour fastness, and deodorizing properties of cotton, silk, and wool fabrics dyed with natural colorant extracts were compared. It was found that these properties were significantly dependent on the concentration of extracts, the structure of colorant, and the kind of fabrics. The order of colour strength (K/S) is Cassia tora. L., pomegranate, coffee sludge, and gardenia. Colour fastness (light, water, and perspiration fastness) was in the range of 2nd–5th grades. The deodorizing performance of fabrics dyed with various natural colorant extracts was in the range of 50–99 %. The deodorizing performance increased in the order of gardenia < Cassia tora. L. < coffee sludge < pomegranate. Especially, the deodorizing performance of all fabrics dyed with pomegranate was found to be highest at 99 %.     

Dyeing and antibacterial properties of <Emphasis Type="Italic">Liriope platyphylla</Emphasis> fruit extracts on silk fabrics

Dyeing and antibacterial properties of a natural dye extracted from Liriope platyphylla fruit applied on silk fabrics have been studied. The total phenolic content (1109.13±69.02 mg), total flavonoid content (530.60±89.44 mg), and total anthocyanin content (492.26±77.79 mg) were measured in 100 g fresh weight of L. platyphylla fruits. In addition, ten anthocyanins and four flavanols were identified in L. platyphylla fruits by high performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection coupled with electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD/ESI-MS). A broad variation in color shade and color depth can be achieved with mixtures of dye extracts and metal mordants. Purple, blue, and pale green were main color shades of silk fabrics dyed with the extracts. The fastness of dyed silk fabrics except for control dyed fabrics against light, washing, and rubbing were acceptable with at least a grey scale rating of 3. The antibacterial activities of L. platyphylla fruit extracts were retained on dyed silk fabrics even after home washing 30 cycles. Mordanting with metal salt mordant had a positive effect on antibacterial activity of dyed silk fabrics in this study. Among them, aluminum and copper were the most effective mordants for improving antibacterial activity of silk fabrics dyed with L. platyphylla fruit extracts. The costs of natural dyeing of per silk fabrics kg by the extracts from L. platyphylla fruit were also calculated on laboratory scale.     

A study on combining natural dyes and environmentally-friendly mordant to improve color strength and ultraviolet protection of textiles

In this study, natural dyes were extracted from five plants, namely diospyros kaki, dioscorea cirrhosa, millettia (jixueteng), ecliptae, and macrocarpa nucuma, using environmentally-friendly solvents, including ethanol and deionized (DI) water. A plant mordant, tannin extracted from Emblica officinalis G., and a metal mordant, copper sulfate, were used in the pre-dyeing process. Cotton and silk fabric samples were treated using the five natural dyes without and with mordanting for comparison on their color strength and characteristics as well as protection against ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Results revealed that Emblica officinalis G. had the highest total phenol content, followed by dioscorea cirrhosa. The presence of abundant phenolic groups in the natural dyes and mordant makes them effective coloration agents for fabrics. Cotton and silk fabrics dyed using ecliptae without pre-mordanting had the highest K/S values. Silk fabrics had higher K/S values than cotton fabrics, indicating greater color strength in pre-mordanted silk treated with DI water-extracted dyes. Natural mordant used before treatment with natural dyes contribute to significant enhancement in color strength, and Emblica officinalis G. alone could darken the color of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with plant pigment. Moreover, treatment with natural dyes after mordanting can increase ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) and the enhancement in UVR protection is greater and more significant in cotton fabrics than in silk fabrics, and in fabrics treated with DI water-extracted natural dyes than in those treated with ethanol-extracted ones. In conclusion, pre-dyeing with natural mordant followed by treatment with natural dyes extracted using environmentally-friendly solvents can enhance significantly K/S and UPF, offering directions for manufacturing textiles without environmental hazards but with good appearance and health benefits.     

Multifunctionalised silk using <Emphasis Type="Italic">Delonix regia</Emphasis> stem shell waste

The use of natural dyes and natural finishes on textiles has become a matter of significant importance because of the increased environmental awareness to avoid some hazardous synthetic dyes and synthetic chemicals. The Delonix regia stem shells were extracted in distilled water methanol and ethanol solvents. Phytochemical analysis was carried out for the presence of bioactive chemical constituents such as saponin, terpenoid, flavonoid, glycoside, phenol and tannin using the standard procedure. All the tests showed positive for the presence of components except saponin in methanol and ethanol extract. The qualitative antibacterial analysis was done by AATCC 147 method with excerpts from three different solvents both against S. aureus (gram-positive) and E. coli (gram-negative) bacteria. Delonix regia stem shell extract (DSE) in distil water was used for natural dyeing of mulberry silk fabric. Pre-mordanting and post-mordanting of silk fabric were carried out using alum and myrobalan mordants. Treated fabrics showed a substantial increase in colour depth (K/S) and adequate wash, light and rubbing fastness properties without and with mordanted and dyed silk fabrics. Quantitative antibacterial analysis by AATCC 100 method was done on dyed silk fabric which showed very good resistance both against bacteria S. aureus and E. coli bacteria. Dyed silk fabric also showed good to very good ultraviolet (UV) protection property. The physicochemical composition of the untreated and without mordant treated silk fabrics were analysed by attenuated total reflection (ATR) Fourier transforms infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, scanning electron microscope (SEM), energy dispersive spectrometry (EDS) and atomic absorption spectrophotometer (AAS). In addition to that wash, durability was also measured of dyed silk fabric for antibacterial and ultraviolet protection (UPF) properties according to AATCC 61 2A washing method.     

Dyeing properties and colour fastness of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with<Emphasis Type="Italic">Cassia tora L.</Emphasis> extract

A natural colorant was extracted fromCassia tora L. using buffer solutions (pH: 2–11) as extractants. The dyeing solution (Cassia tora L. extract) extracted using pH 9 buffer solution was found to give the highest K/S values of dyed fabrics. Cotton and silk fabrics were dyed withCassia tora L. extract at 60°C for 60 min with pre-treatment of various metal salts as mordants. It was found thatCassia tora L. extract was polygenetic dyestuffs and its major components were anthraquinones. Studies have been made on the effects of the kind of mordant on dyeing properties and colour fastnesses of cotton and silk fabrics. The K/S of cotton fabrics increased in the order of the dyeing using FeSO₄>CuSO₄>ZnSO₄>MnSO₄≅Al₂(SO₄)₃>NiSO₄>none, however, the K/S of silk fabrics increased in the order of the dyeing using FeSO₄>CuSO₄>ZnSO₄≅Al₂(SO₄)₃>MnSO₄≅NiSO₄>none. It was found that the K/S values of dyed fabrics were largely affected by the colour difference (ΔE) between mordanted fabric and control fabric. However, they were not depended on the content of mordanted metal ion of the fabrics. Mordants FeSO₄ and CuSO₄ for cotton fabric, FeSO₄, CuSO₄, and Al₂(SO₄)₃ for silk fabric were found to give good light fastness (rating 4).     

Deodorizing and antibacterial performance of cotton, silk and wool fabrics dyed with Punica granatum L. extracts

Natural dye extracts were obtained by extraction from Punica granatum L. using water as an extractant at 90 °C for 90 min with various liquor ratios (solid Punica granatum L.(wt.): solvent water(wt.); 1:100–1:5). Dyeing was carried out using a 1:50 dyeing bath ratio at 80 °C for 60 min by exhaustion method. This study focused on the effect of liquor ratio on dyeing properties and deodorizing/antibacterial performance of various fabrics (cotton, silk and wool) dyed with Punica granatum L. extract without mordants. The optimum liquor ratio was found to be 1:10. By IR, UV-visible spectroscopies and HPLC analysis, the main component in Punica granatum L. extract and the yellow colorant component were found to be ellagic acid. By GC/MS analysis, the major volatile components of pristine Punica granatum L. powder were found to be acetic acid (area: 25.84 %), ethanol (area: 17.97 %), acetoin (area: 13.11 %), acetaldehyde (area: 8.96 %), isobutanal (area: 4.90 %). All dyed fabrics (cotton, silk and wool fabrics) displayed outstanding deodorizing performance (99 %) against ammonia gas and excellent antibacterial performance (bacteriostatic reduction rate: 99.9 %) against Staphylococcu aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae.     

Antibacterial properties and color fastness of silk fabric dyed with turmeric extract

The use of non-toxic and eco-friendly natural dyes on textiles has received much attention due to the increased environmental awareness in order to avoid some hazardous synthetic dyes. In the present study, an eco-friendly approach was developed to impart color and antibacterial properties to silk fabrics dyed with turmeric extract as a non-toxic natural colorant. The natural colorant was extracted from Curcuma Longa rhizome. Copper sulfate, ferrous sulfate and potassium aluminium sulfate were applied in a pre-metallization process as mordanting agents. Antibacterial properties of treated fabrics were evaluated against common pathogenic bacteria, Staphylococcus aureus (Gram-positive) and Escherichia coli (Gram-negative). The effects of dye concentration and mordant types on the obtained color hues, antibacterial efficiency and color fastness of the fabrics were investigated. The results indicated that mordanted and dyed fabrics possessed desirable antibacterial properties. Complete antibacterial activity of the treated fabrics was obtained with 3 %owf (on weight of the fabric) copper sulfate. It was also shown that increasing the dye concentration could lead to a more efficient antibacterial activity on the mordanted dyed fabrics. An optimum level of the antibacterial activity was observed in the sample treated with 30 %owf of turmeric. Furthermore, the results of CIE L*, a*, b* values, FTIR, washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of the dyed fabrics were reported. The mordanted dyed silk fabrics exhibited desirable color fastness properties. These studies proved a direct relationship between the degree of antibacterial activity of the fabrics treated with turmeric and the metals ion concentration.     

Dyeing of modified acrylic fibers with curcumin and madder natural dyes

Hydrophobic fibers are highly crysta lline and non-polar polymers hence pose a big problem for dyers. Modified acrylic fiber containing different amounts of amidoxime groups as a function of the nitrogen content was obtained and dyed with curcumin and madder natural dyes. The dyeing parameters, such as dye concentration, dye bath pH, salt concentration, temperature, and time and the effect of alum and ferrous sulfate used as mordants were investigated. Compared with the dyeings obtained from modified acrylics, those of blank samples appeared less in color strength values. The color strength was proportional to the nitrogen content of the sample and the maximum value was obtained at pH 2 and pH 5 using madder and curcumin, respectively. The fixation of the dye molecules to the modified acrylic fibers was investigated to show mainly ionic and physical bonds. The washing, perspiration, and rubbing fastness properties for the dyed samples were enhanced by application of alum. The light fastness ratings were also improved using ferrous sulfate especially for the case of the samples dyed with madder.     

Eco-dyeing and antimicrobial properties of chlorophyllin copper complex extracted from Sasa veitchii

Cotton fabrics were dyed with the natural chlorophyll derivates (chlorophyllin, Chlin) after treatment with and without chitosan. The water-soluble Chlin extracted from Sasa veitchii based on Japanese bamboo leaves were investigated in order to improve the textile coloration and antimicrobial activity. The antimicrobial activity of the dyed fabrics that had been pretreated with chitosan as a biomordant over a concentration range of 0∼0.7 % was tested against two common gram pathogens: Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. The color depth as measured by the K/S value, the color difference and the colorfastness to washing and light were also evaluated. The fabrics treated with chitosan resulted in an increase in dye uptake in all cases compared with the corresponding untreated fabrics, and did not affect fastness of washing and light. The cotton fabrics dyed with mordant and CuSO₄ extracts appeared to have over 99.9 % of antimicrobial activity, while MeOH extracts showed 71.8 %.     

Dyeing properties of wool fabrics dyed with Vitis Vinifera L. (black grenache) leaves extract

In this work, water-extraction of Vitis Vinifera L. (Black Grenache) leaves and analysis of aqueous extracts for anthocyanins were investigated. Vegetable leaves were cultivated in North of Tunisia at different dates. Anthocyanins were identified as main constituents in these natural dyeing materials using high performance liquid chromatography (HPCL). Dyeability of wool and its fastness properties using Vitis Vinifera L. leaves extract were also determined. Aqueous extract of Vitis Vinifera L. leaves has markedly yielded shades with good fastness properties. Thus, affordability is a point favorable for Vitis Vinifera L. leaves. Effects of dye bath pH and temperature on dyeability and fastness proprieties of wool fabrics by aqueous extract of Vitis Vinifera L. leaves were evaluated. Experimental results showed that fastness properties of dyed fabrics ranged from average to very good. Vitis Vinifera L. leaves extracts showed potential to dyeing wool fibers under highly acidic conditions (pH ≤2). The results obtained here revealed that natural dyes extracted from Vitis Vinifera L. leaves can be cost-effective for dyeing wool fabrics.     

Study on the dyeing of wool fabrics with Phytolacca berry natural dyes

Dyeing of wool fabrics with natural dyes from Phytolacca berries has been studied. The effect of dye concentration, dye bath pH, dyeing time and temperature were discussed. The influence of chitosan application on the dyeing properties of wool fabrics was investigated. The SEM photographs of chitosan treated wool fabrics clearly depict the deposition of chitosan on the fibers. The effect of chitosan concentration, dye bath pH, dyeing time and temperature has been studied by orthogonal experiment. It has been proved that the dyed wool samples pretreated by chitosan have higher color fastness, faster dyeing rate, and better antibacterial properties compared with untreated ones.     

Natural dye extraction from waste barks of Turkish red pine (Pinus brutia Ten.) timber and eco-friendly natural dyeing of various textile fibers

In this study, a natural dye extraction was carried out to isolate dyestuff extract powder from the waste barks of Turkish red pine (Pinus brutia Ten.) timber which is not a common natural dyestuff source. The natural dyestuff powder obtained was applied to cotton, flax, wool, silk, tencel, polyamide and acrylic fibers accompanied by simultaneous application of alum and natural oak ash mordants. Color properties were investigated including rub-, light- and wash-fastness performance. Differently dyed fiber samples exhibited slightly different shades of beige, brown and brownish-yellow depending on the mordant used and fiber type. Alum mordanted samples exhibited better color properties. The highest (63.4) and the second highest (45.3) f(k) color yield values were observed for alum mordanted silk and wool samples, respectively. Dyed fabrics showed excellent wash fastness, very low staining performance, and moderate light- and rub-fastness.     

Application of <Emphasis Type="Italic">Sterculia Foetida</Emphasis> Fruit Shell Waste Biomolecules on Silk for Aesthetic and Wellness Properties

There has been growing interest in the use of bioresource waste for natural dyeing and finishing. This paper discusses dye extraction from the novel source fruit shell waste of Sterculia foetida and its application on mulberry silk fabric to confer aesthetic coloration and wellness properties such as ultra-violet (UV) protection and antibacterial properties. Treated fabrics showed a substantial increase in color depth and adequate wash, light, and rubbing fastness properties for dyed silk fabrics with and without mordanting. Pre-and post-mordanting of silk fabrics were carried out using mordants such as alum, harda (myrobalan), and copper sulfate. UV-visible spectrophotometric analysis of fruit shell extract (FSE) at different pHs and FSE with three different mordants at neutral pH was used to understand the phenomena of dye-fiber interaction. The treated fabrics characterised by ATR-FTIR, SEM-EDS, and XRD analysis indicate the nature of dye fiber interaction justifying the multifunctional properties. The treated fabric also showed very good ultraviolet protection property and antibacterial properties both against S. aureus and E. coli bacteria even after ten washes. The results indicate that Sterculia foetida fruit shell extract offers an excellent potential as coloration, antibacterial, and ultraviolet protective agent for mulberry silk fabric.     

Upgrading of UV Protection Properties of Several Textile Fabrics by Their Dyeing with Grape Pomace Colorants

The desire to offer clothes protective properties against the harmful UV rays continues to attract the interest of researchers. Several works have been elaborated in this topic and have proved that the clothes do not protect sufficiently against the solar ultraviolet radiation. Their protectiveness depends on the fiber type, the fabric composition, the fabric construction and the dyeing method. This research presents a novel approach which target the improvement of the textile protective properties against UV rays by their dyeing with grape pomace aqueous extract. These properties were tested in combination with several fabrics (natural and synthetic) and mordants (potassium alum and ferrous sulphate). Through this study, it has been shown that the UV-protective properties of the several dyed fibers were upgraded after dyeing with the grape pomace extract, and is intensely relying on the types of fibers and mordants.     

One-Bath Union Dyeing of Wool/Acrylic Blend Fabric with Cationic Reactive Dyes Based on Azobenzene

Three unreported cationic reactive dyes based on azobenzene were synthesized using a novel synthetic route. Synthesized dyestuffs containing three primary color dyes were characterized by FTIR, H-NMR, LC-MS, Element Analysis and UV-vis spectroscopic techniques. The absorption spectra of dyes were measured in three solvents with different polarities. The dyeing and color fastness properties of three cationic reactive dyes on wool, acrylic and wool/acrylic blend fabrics were determined. The optimum pH for wool and acrylic fabrics were 6 and 5, respectively. Effect of temperature, time on dyeing properties and color fastness properties on wool fabric showed the same tendency with acrylic fabric. The K/S value of wool fabric dyed with three dyes was similar to that of acrylic fabric when both fabrics were dyed simultaneously in the same dyebath using low dye concentration. Wool/acrylic blend fabric dyed with three cationic reactive dyes using onebath one-step method achieved good union dyeing property and excellent color fastness.     

Investigations on C-glycosyl flavonoids from Rhynchosia capitata,its antimicrobial and dyeing properties

Natural dyes extracted from a novel source Rhynchosia capitata (R. capitata) Heyne ex roth were applied to cotton fabric by applying traditional and pad dyeing processes using pre-, post- and simultaneous-mordanting techniques. Both dyeing processes were carried out in the presence of natural mordants: Myrobalan, Pomegranate rind, Rhizhophora mucronata fruits, Manjistha, and eco-friendly metallic mordants such as tannic acid, stannous chloride (SnCl₂), ferrous sulfate (FeSO₄), and copper sulfate (CuSO₄). The range of color developed on dyed materials was evaluated in terms of (L*, a*, b*, C*) CIELAB coordinates and dye absorption concentration on textile materials was studied by using K/S values. Natural mordant Rhizhopora mucronata fruits exhibited good absorption value. It was found that metallic mordants FeSO₄ and CuSO₄ exhibited higher K/S values than SnCl₂. For other mordants except FeSO₄ shade developed on cotton fabric varied from pale yellow to brown. The fastness properties ranged from good to excellent. High pressure thin layer chromatographic analysis for solvents of varying polarity has been investigated and maximum yield was obtained from 80 % aqueous ethanol fraction. Antimicrobial activity was carried out with the aid of two human pathogenic strains, Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumonia and the cotton fabric dyed with plain extract of R. capitata shows good activity.     

Cross-cultural study of color sensation and sensibility for Korean traditional fabrics with natural indigo dyeing

This study focused on fabric planning for environment-friendly fashion products for the international market. In order to achieve this objective, some Korean traditional fabrics (Mosee and Myungjoo) with natural indigo dye were selected and they were evaluated in terms of subjective color sensation and sensibility by two cultural groups (Korean and American college students). Also, color preference for the natural dye fabrics by each cultural group was predicted by colorimetric properties, color sensation, and color sensibility factors. Most bluish fabrics dyed with natural indigo colorants were likely to provide a cold and strong sensation. There were partially significant differences in terms of color sensation among six fabrics. The color sensibility for the naturally dyed fabrics was classified into three factors: ‘Classic’, Romantic’, and ‘Unique’. The color sensibility factor ‘Classic’ was the dominant factor for the naturally dyed fabrics with indigo colorant. There were cultural differences in terms of color sensation and color sensibility factors between Korean and American university students. Color preference of dyed fabrics with natural indigo was found to be influenced mainly by the color sensibility factors among colorimetric properties, color sensation, and color sensibility.     

Natural dyeing of cotton with <Emphasis Type="Italic">Xylocarpus granatum</Emphasis> bark extract: Dyeing,fastness, and ultraviolet protection properties

In this research we investigated the dyeing of cotton fabrics with extracts of Xylocarpus granatum, a mangrove plant with a long history of use in leather tanning and textile dyeing. X. granatum bark was extracted and spray-dried, yielding a tannin-rich, reddish-brown powder. This powder proved a suitable colorant for the natural dyeing of cotton with promising color fastness properties to wet treatments (washing, water, sea water, and perspiration), hot pressing, crocking, and light exposure. However, the dye alone produced only weak levels of coloration and therefore metallic salt mordants were employed to improve the color strength, through the formation of insoluble tannate complexes. The resulting fabric K/S values were dependent on the mordant used and exhibited the following trend: ferric sulfate > sodium dichromate > copper sulfate > potassium aluminum sulfate > no mordant, for fabrics exposed to mordants before and after dyeing. Mordanting resulted in slight variations in shade and color fastness. In most cases, the color fastness properties were preserved, except for color fastness to light and hot pressing, for which lowered ratings were found for some mordants. Stiffness and mechanical performance were not greatly affected by dyeing or mordanting, except for sodium dichromate mordanting which significantly stiffened and weakened the fabric. The ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) of all the dyed samples achieved the maximum (50+) level, highlighting the excellent UV shielding properties of the fabric. Overall, X. granatum bark extract is a promising, effective colorant for the natural dyeing of cotton in terms of appearance, fastness, and physical characteristics.