Effect of fibre diameter and cross-sectional shape on moisture transmission through fabrics

The current work incorporates an experimental study on the effect of fiber cross sectional shape and fibre diameter on moisture transmission properties of the fabric. Water vapour transmission of the fabrics was measured using the PERMETEST. In plane liquid flow through the fabric was measured using a gravimetric in-plane wicking tester and vertical movement of liquid along the fibres against gravity was also observed using a vertical wicking tester. With the change in shape factor and fibre diameter, it is seen that with increase in fibre specific surface area wicking rate through fabric increases, whereas water vapour permeability of the fabric reduces.     

The effects of yarn number and liquid ammonia treatment on the physical properties of hemp woven fabrics

The effects of yarn number and liquid ammonia (L/A) treatment on the physical properties of woven fabrics prepared with pure hemp spun yarns were investigated. As a result of L/A treatment, the crystal structure of hemp fiber was changed from cellulose I to the mixtures of cellulose III and cellulose I and its crystallinity was slightly decreased by 13 %. The crease recovery of hemp fabric treated with L/A was improved upto 78 %. The washing shrinkage of hemp fabric treated with L/A decreased significantly to less than 0.4 %, while the washing shrinkage of hemp fabric prepared with the fined yarn was superior to that of hemp fabric prepared with the coarsed yarn. Especially, the wicking speed and drying ratio of hemp fabrics treated with L/A were higher than those of the untreated as yarn number increased. However, it was found that there is no significant effect on the UV protection of the L/A treated hemp fabrics.     

Physical and comfort properties of the hoisery knit product containing intermingled nylon elastomeric yarn

There are several studies related with knitted fabric containing elastomeric yarn. These studies have been carried out only on fabrics containing naked elastomeric yarn, i.e., without intermingling. And most of them have focused on dimensional and extension-recovery properties of the fabric. Of course, intermingling yarn parameters such as number of knots and draw-ratio will affect the properties and performance of the fabrics. This paper presents a study about the effect of draw-ratio and number of knots, which are important parameters in intermingled nylon-elastomeric yarns, on the physical and comfort properties of hosiery knit products. To see the relationship and significance, bivariate correlation analysis and analysis of variance have been carried out. It has been seen that increase of draw ratio and number of knots lead to an increase in dimensional change, stitch density, fabric weight, and lead to a decrease in fabric spirality, abrasion, fabric wicking (wickability in course direction is less than that of wale direction). Fabric thickness increases with an increase in draw ratio and a decrease in number of knots. The number of knots and the draw-ratio do not affect the fabric drying rate. However, an increase in the draw ratio and the number of knots result in an increase in initial water content before beginning the drying process. But, an increase in initial water content is not so high as to affect the drying rate.     

Modelling tearing behavior of durable press finished woven fabric

Tearing strength is one of the most important and critical properties related to durable press finished cotton woven fabric. In the past, modelling of tearing strength of cotton woven fabrics was based on untreated cotton woven fabric but not in durable pressed finished fabric. In this paper, a mathematical model was established to demonstrate the tearing strength mechanism of durable press finished cotton woven fabrics by dimensional analysis based on yarn diameter, cover factor, Young’s modulus and fabric elongation. The proposed model agreed well with experimental results and the proposed model can be used for optimizing durable press finishing process of cotton woven fabric.     

Moisture and thermal permeability of the hollow textured PET imbedded woven fabrics for high emotional garments

This study examined the effects of the total porosity, pore size, and cover factor on the moisture and thermal permeability of woven fabrics made from DTY (draw textured yarns) and ATY (air jet textured yarns) composite yarns with hollow PET (polyethylene terephthalate) yarns. The wicking of the hollow composite yarn fabrics was found to be superior to that of the high twisted yarn fabrics, which may be due to the high porosity in the hollow composites yarns, but this was not related to the cover factor. The drying characteristics of the hollow composite yarn fabric with high porosity were inferior compared to the high twisted yarn fabrics due to the large amounts of liquid water in the large pores, which resulted in a longer drying time of the fabric. The thermal conductivity of the hollow composite yarn fabrics decreased with increasing measured pore diameter due to the bulky yarn structure. The effects of the hollowness of the yarn on the thermal conductivity were more dominant than those of the yarn structural parameters. The air permeability increased with increasing measured pore diameter but the effects of the cover factor on the air permeability were not observed in the hollow composite yarn fabrics. The effects of porosity on the moisture and thermal permeability of the woven fabrics made from the hollow composite filaments were found to be critical, i.e., wicking and air permeability increase with increasing porosity. In addition, the drying rate increased with increasing porosity and the thermal conductivity decreased with increasing pore diameter, but were independent of the cover factor.     

A new approach for numerical identification of bending behavior of plain woven fabric

There is a variety of approaches for investigating bending behavior of woven fabrics. Some of them are based on fabric deformation with one edge fixed; the others are based on measurement of force, moment or energy producing bending deformation. In all methods, bending properties is acquired after testing prepared fabric samples. Therefore, in this work an attempt is made by a mechanical model and a novel calculation technique to determine bending characteristics of the plain woven fabrics before sample production. Theoretical data including bending length, bending rigidity and bending modulus were directly determined for supposed fabric samples with a given yarn count and yarn density using Peirce’s structural model for plain woven fabric and a especial code written in Maple12. Besides, fabric samples with the defined characteristics were woven on a Sulzer-Ruti weaving machine. Then, these fabrics were tested for bending behavior using Shirley bending tester. Comparison showed good agreement between predicted and measured bending characteristics of the fabrics. However, theoretical bending rigidities of the samples were more than experimental values.     

茶叶烘干机干燥数学模型的建立 Ⅱ.茶叶烘干机多薄层干燥模型

把绿茶揉捻叶在链板式茶叶烘干机内的干燥过程视作一个多薄层的干燥过程,并依据薄层叠代计算的原理,建立了茶叶烘干机多薄层干燥数学模型,在进叶叶层厚度为3—4厘米、进风温度为85—120℃和链轮转速为3—7转/分钟的干燥条件下,出叶含水率的模型预测值与实测值之间的绝对差均值为1.49(%,湿基),烘干机干燥过程含水率变化的模型预测值与实测值之间的均方差小于0.03145。     

Application of artificial neural network (ANN) for prediction of fabrics’ extensibility

In the field of clothing technology, prediction of the fabric properties is very important because the fabric is the basic element of every clothing item. Knowing the fabric properties it is possible to predict fabrics’ behaviour during process of clothing manufacturing (in phase of cutting, sewing and ironing) as well as clothing items’ behaviour during usage. According to the fabrics’ characteristics and model design it is possible to predict appearances of the clothing items and their draping which can be presented with many computer simulations. In this paper extensibility of the fabric which appears during a small forces loading on the fabrics are investigated. Loading of small forces on the fabric appears in each phases of clothing manufacturing processes and during usage of clothing items. Investigations are managed on 50 fabrics which are weaving in twill weave and 100 % wool. The basic characteristics of fabric (density of warp and weft, mass per unit area, thickness) are defined according appropriate standard methods and tensile properties in the warp and weft directions are measured using KES-FB1 measuring system. Using an artificial neural network (ANN) prediction of extensibility properties of the fabrics are done, results are compared with experimental values and deviations are determined. ANN is an adaptive system that changes its structure based on external or internal information that flows through the network during the learning phase. They can be used to model complex relationships between inputs and outputs or to find patterns in data. Based on the implemented investigations, minimal deviations between experimental and predicted values are obtained and can be concluded that ANN can be used for prediction of the fabrics properties.     

咖啡豆的热风干燥特性及其干燥过程中风味成分变化规律研究

以海南当地的咖啡鲜果为原料,测定其干基含水率和干燥速率,探索咖啡豆在不同干燥温度和载重量条件下热风干燥对干燥速率的影响,以及干燥过程中咖啡豆挥发性成分的变化规律,并建立咖啡豆热风干燥的动力学模型。结果表明:干燥速率随温度的升高而升高,初始阶段干燥速率较快;由于咖啡鲜果单层摆放,不同载重量对干燥速率影响不显著;挥发性物质的种类随水分含量的降低而增多,其中醛类化合物相对百分含量逐渐降低,而酯类、酸类、醇类化合物相对百分含量均逐渐增加,烃类化合物略有增加;采用3种模型进行非线性回归拟合以模拟咖啡豆的干燥过程,结果表明单项扩散模型(Henderson and Pabis)的拟合度最好。     

A mechanical model for felt in impulse drying: A cellular materials approach. II. Experimental validation

High-intensity paper drying processes involve the complex phenomena of multiphase transport in porous media. Impulse drying is such a process, in which enhanced liquid water removal is the key to energy savings. This paper concerns the study of the mechanical behavior of felts used in the papermaking industry, namely those applied in the press section of the paper machine. Here, a viscoelastoplastic model based on the cellular solids theory is presented, and its range of adequacy explored using data from uniaxial laboratory experiments. The model predictions show some agreement with the experiments but accurate documentation of multiphase-flow parameters and a proper heat and mass transport model, able to describe the multiphase transport in the course of the pressing event, would certainly improve the performance of the model.     

Action of a finishing product in the improvement of the ultraviolet protection provided by modal and modal sun fabrics: Modelisation of the effect

The ultraviolet protection factor of a fabric is a quantitative measurement of the effectiveness of the fabric to protect the human skin against ultraviolet radiation. The protection provided by uncoloured cellulosic fabrics is, in general, too low, but can be improved by the finishing treatment with UV-absorbers. In the present paper Modal and Modal Sun fabrics with different compactness, and hence with different initial Ultraviolet Protection Factor values, are treated with several concentrations of an UV-absorber, according to a predefined experimental plan. The influence of each variable as well as their interaction on the response ultraviolet protection factor is analysed and a statistical model for predictions is proposed.     

Drying morphologies and emport rate effect on wetting and spreading behaviours

The main idea of this work is to study the different phenomena of spreading, evaporation, and diffusion that bound to the ink-jet printing. The coating film is studied as well as its drying morphologies and its wetting behavior. Then the drop water spreading on coated fabric is investigated. At that time spreading kinetic is characterized by the digidrop 3S which permits to measure precisely the various parameters such as contact angle, diameter, height, volume and drop profile in contact with the support during wetting phenomenon. This survey shows, on the one hand, that the coating film structure is deeply affected by drying morphologies. On the other hand, drying conditions influence different parameters of kinetic drop spreading on virgin glass and cotton material. Then the increasing of coating film thickness encourages the drop spreading.     

云南小粒种咖啡热风干燥特性及其数学模型

以云南小粒种咖啡为原料,探究小粒种咖啡热风干燥特性及最佳数学模型,为咖啡热风干燥工艺提供参考。对小粒种咖啡湿豆进行热风干燥,用正交试验的方法研究其在不同热风温度、风速、铺装厚度和搅拌转速下的热风干燥特性,比较10种数学模型在热风干燥特性中的适用性。结果表明：热风风速在干燥实验中对传热传质有催进作用;搅拌可加快热传递提高热效率,减少干燥时间;铺装厚度主要影响干燥用时,铺装厚度与干燥速率变化成反比;咖啡干燥以降速干燥为主,无明显恒速干燥阶段,热风温度对热风干燥的干燥特性影响最大;对正交试验进行极差、方差分析可知,温度40℃,风速1 m/s,搅拌转速2 r/min为最优热风干燥方案,最佳数学模型为Logarithmic模型,热风温度、热风风速与搅拌转速3个因素对热风干燥总时长影响的极差值为19、6.67、5.5,3个因素在95%置信区间下P值为0.011、0.082、0.391。主次顺序为热风温度A>热风风速B>搅拌转速C;由评价指标R²、SSE、残差均方及对比实验数据与常用干燥模型进行非线性回归拟合分析,结果显示Logarithmic模型拟合度最好,其中R²为0.986444、SSE为0.021734、残差均方为0.002075。该数学模型可预测云南小粒种咖啡湿豆的热风干燥特性曲线,也为实际的生产与加工提供依据和参考。     

Porosity and capillarity of weft knitted spacer structures

A geometrical model of weft knitted spacer structures made with mono-filament yarn has been analysed to understand the spacer yarn path. Theoretical models have been created to predict the porosity and the radius of the capillaries of a knitted spacer structure depending on their geometrical parameters, such as course spacing, wale spacing, stitch length, fabric thickness, count of yarn and fibre density. Polyester knitted spacer fabrics were produced with different parameters; their porosity was determined by measuring the weight and compared with the theoretical porosity. The validity of the model was confirmed by experimental results. The porosity of knitted spacer structures made out of mono-filament yarn can be maintained above a certain level by adjusting the fabric parameters such as fabric thickness, course spacing and wale spacing.     

Comparison of regression and adaptive neuro-fuzzy models for predicting the bursting strength of plain knitted fabrics

The aim of this study was to compare the response surface regression and adaptive neuro-fuzzy models for predicting the bursting strength of plain knitted fabrics. The prediction models are based on the experimental data comprising yarn tenacity, knitting stitch length and fabric GSM as input variables and fabric bursting strength as output/response variable. The models quantitatively characterize the non-linear relationship and interactions between the input and output variables exhibiting very good prediction ability and accuracy, with ANFIS model being slightly better in performance than the regression model.     

玛咖块根流化床干燥特性及动力学研究

本试验采用流化床工艺干燥玛咖块根,考察了不同进气温度、空气流量、物料粒径3个主要因素对玛咖块根湿基含水率、失水速率曲线的影响,得到了玛咖块根流化床干燥各因素条件下的失水变化规律。并根据得到的实验数据建立了玛咖块根流化床干燥的动力学模型,并对得到的模型进行统计检验及验证。结果表明：玛咖块根流化床干燥的最佳模型为Page模型,拟合方程为：ln（-lnMR）＝-6.499+0.014 3T+0.0154V+0.708L+(1.556-0.001 46T-0.003 11V-0.185 L）lnt。该拟合方程能较好地描述玛咖块根流化床干燥过程,并能准确预测各阶段玛咖块根的含水率及失水速率。     

Preparation and characterizations of polypyrrole on liquid ammonia pre-treated wool fabric

Wool fabric was treated with liquid ammonia at -40 °C for 30 and 60 s prior to the application of polypyrrole (PPy). The polymer was deposited on wool fiber using the chemical oxidation method with 0.02 and 0.05 mol/l (Py) monomer concentration and FeCl₃ as a catalyst. Functional groups of wool samples were analyzed using FT-IR, and surface morphology was investigated using SEM micrographs. Properties such as water absorbency, surface resistivity, abrasion resistance, weight add-on, and air permeability of coated specimens were explored. The FT-IR outcomes revealed the liquid ammonia pre-treatment changed the amount of amide I (NH), cystic acid, cystic monoxide, and dioxide content of the fiber. SEM micrographs revealed the descaling of wool surface after pre-treatment and smooth coating of polymer. Pre-treatment of wool in liquid ammonia improved absorbency of wool fabric with respect to the treatment duration. The surface resistivity of wool fabric decreased with the increase of monomer concentration and pre-treatment duration. The results of abrasion resistance confirmed that the pre-treated fabric exhibited lower loss of polymer after 200 cycles of abrasion. The weight of the fabric was increased and air permeability decreased when the monomer concentration and liquid ammonia pre-treatment duration was increased.     

Flame-Retardant and Wear Comfort Properties of Modacrylic/FR-Rayon/Anti-static PET Blend Yarns and Their Woven Fabrics for Clothing

This study examined the flame retardant, anti-static, and wear comfort properties of woven fabrics from two types of yarns composed of modacrylic, FR-rayon, cotton, and anti-static PET fibers. The FR-rayon-blended modacrylic fabric mixed with anti-static PET fibers exhibited better flame-retardant and anti-static properties than those of the cotton-blended modacrylic fabric. In addition, the absorption and drying properties of the FR-rayon-blended modacrylic fabric were superior to those of the cotton-blended modacrylic fabric. The thermal conductivity of the FR-rayon-blended fabric was lower than that of the cotton-blended one, whereas the water vapor permeability was slightly higher than that of the cotton-blended one. These wear comfort properties of the FR-rayon-blended fabric were attributed to the micro-pores and longer fiber length of the FR-rayon fibers, as well as their yarn and fabric structural parameters. This study suggests that FR-rayon-blended modacrylic fabric has better flame-retardant and anti-static properties in both twill and rip weaves with good warmth keepability, and higher water and vapor transmission properties than cotton-blended one. In addition, the FR-rayon-blended modacrylic clothing exhibited a better wear comfort feel than the cotton-blended one due to the lower microclimate humidity. This means that FR-rayon-blended modacrylic fabric makes it more comfortable to wear than cotton-blended one.     

Analysis on the pilling factors of cashmere knitted fabric

The effect of cashmere yarn twist, knitted fabric density, and cashmere properties on pilling rates of cashmere knitted fabric is investigated in this paper. The experimental results show that yarn twist and fabric density have little influence on pilling rates of cashmere knitted fabric for yarn 38.4 tex/2 when yarn twist varies from 234 T/m to 272 T/m, and the fabric density is 9.7, 10.7, and 11.2 yarns/inch, respectively. The length of cashmere fiber, in particular less than 7.5 mm, is responsible for the pilling rates of cashmere knitted fabric based on optimal scaling regression analysis.