Analysis and tensile characterization of air-entangled textured polyester woven fabrics depending on interlacement and yarn sets

The aim of this study was to understand the failure mechanism of two dimensional dry fabric structure considering yarn sets and interlacements. For this purpose, data generated on air-entangled textured polyester woven fabric under the simple tensile load and analyzed by developed regression model. The regression model showed that warp and weft directional tensile strengths of satin fabric were higher than those of plain and rib fabrics in unravel sample. This might be related to the number of interlacements of the fabrics. There was not a considerable difference between warp directional tensile strength of ravel and unravel satin fabrics, whereas weft directional tensile strength of ravel satin fabric decreased rapidly with respect to its unravel form. The satin fabric showed the highest warp directional tensile strength among the others. The lowest weft directional tensile strength was received from ribs fabric. In semi-ravel sample, all fabrics showed low warp and weft directional tensile strength values except in plain fabric. Warp directional tensile elongation of plain fabric was the highest in unravel sample. Satin fabric showed the highest warp directional tensile elongation in the ravel sample. Warp directional tensile elongations of all the fabrics in the semi-ravel sample became low. Weft directional tensile elongation of satin fabric was the highest in unravel sample. In addition, satin and plain fabrics showed the highest weft directional tensile elongations in the ravel sample. Weft directional tensile elongations of all the fabrics in the semi-ravel sample became low except in ribs fabric.     

Analysis and tensile-tear properties of abraded denim fabrics depending on pattern relations using statistical and artificial neural network models

The aim of this study is to develop new pattern denim fabrics and characterize the mechanical properties of these fabrics after abrasion load. Furthermore, tensile and tear strengths of these fabrics have been analysed by using the Artificial Neural Network (ANN) and statistical model. All denim fabrics were first abraded and subsequently tensile and tearing tests were applied to the abraided fabrics seperately. Actual data generated from the tests were analyzed by ANN and regression model. The regression model has shown that tensile strength properties of the abraded large structural pattern denim fabrics are generally low compared to that of the small structural pattern and traditional denim fabrics. On the other hand, when the abrasion cycles are increased tensile properties of all denim fabrics are generally decreased. Tearing strength of weft and warp in the abraded large structural pattern denim fabrics are between small structural pattern and traditional denim fabric. On the other hand, when the abrasion cycles are increased tearing strength properties in the weft and warp for all denim fabrics are generally decreased. The results from ANN and regression models were also compared with the measured values. It is concluded that almost all values from ANN are accurately predicted compared with those of the regression model. Therefore, we suggest that both methods can be used in this study as viable and reliable tools.     

Empirical modelling of tensile strength of woven fabrics

Aesthetic properties of fabrics have been considered as the most important fabric attribute for years. However, recently there has been a paradigm shift in the domain of textile material applications and consequently more emphasis is now being given on the mechanical and functional properties of fabrics rather than its aesthetic appeal. Moreover, in certain woven fabrics used for technical applications, strength is a decisive quality parameter. In this work, tensile strength of plain woven fabrics has been predicted by using two empirical modelling methods namely artificial neural network (ANN) and linear regression. Warp yarn strength, warp yarn elongation, ends per inch (EPI), picks per inch (PPI) and weft count (Ne) were used as input parameters. Both the models were able to predict the fabric strength with reasonably good precision although ANN model demonstrated higher prediction accuracy and generalization ability than the regression model. The warp yarn strength and EPI were found to be the two most significant factors influencing fabric strength in warp direction.     

Effect of weaving process on tensile characterization of single and multiple ends of air-entangled textured polyester yarns

The tensile properties of air-entangled textured polyester single and multiple yarn ends before and after weaving were analyzed. The effects of weaving process considering fabric unit cell interlacement and number of yarn ends were evaluated by regression model. For this purpose, plain, ribs and satin woven fabrics were produced. The yarns were raveled from fabrics, and the tensile tests were applied to these yarns. The developed regression model showed that the number of interlacement and crimp ratio on the warp and weft yarns influence their tensile strength. Tensile strength of raveled yarns decreased compared to that of the bobbin yarn due to the effect of weaving process. This property degradation on the ravel yarns considered process degradation. Generally, when the number of warp and weft yarn ends increases, the warp and weft yarn tensile strengths for each fabric type decrease, whereas the warp and weft yarn tensile elongations slightly increase. The results from regression model were compared with the measured values. This study confirmed that the method in the study can be a viable and reliable tool. The research finding could be useful those who work on preform fabrication.     

Analysis and off-axis tensile characterization of air-entangled textured polyester woven fabrics depending on unit cell interlacing frequency

The aim of this study is to analyze and determine the off-axis tensile properties of air-entangled textured polyester fabrics based on unit cell interlacing frequency. For this purpose, continuous filament polyester air-entangled textured yarn was used to produce plain, ribs and satin woven fabrics. The fabrics were cut from the warp direction (0°) to weft direction (90°) at every 15° increment, and tensile tests were applied to those of the off-axis samples. The strength and elongation results were introduced to the statistical model developed, and regression analyses were carried out. Hence, the effects of off-axis loading and interlacement on the directional tensile properties of the fabric were investigated. The regression model showed that off-axis loading influences fabric tensile strength. On the other hand, interlacement frequency is the most important factor for fabric tensile elongation. The results from the regression model were compared with the measured values. This study confirmed that the method used in this study as can be a viable and reliable tool. Future research will concentrate on multiaxially directional fabric and the probability that it will result in homogeneous in-plane fabric properties.     

Selection of yarn for the predefined tensile strength of cotton woven fabrics

In order to meet the required strength of a fabric, selection of yarn is difficult because tensile strength of woven fabric depends upon a number of factors. Still, the manufacturers have to use hit and trial method in order to select the yarn for the required tensile strength of fabric. This study was carried out to develop regression equations for the prediction of yarn tensile strength suitable for the predefined strength of cotton woven fabrics. These equations were developed by using empirical data obtained from two hundred and thirty four fabric samples prepared under a systematic plan with different constructions. Prediction proficiency and precision of these regression equations were evaluated by correlation analysis of the predicted and actual warp and weft yarn strength values of another set of thirty six fabric samples. The results show a very strong prediction precision of the equations.     

Predicting tensile strength of yarns required for producing PET/Cotton blended woven fabrics of a pre-defined tensile strength

This study was aimed at developing statistical models for the prediction of tensile strength of warp and weft yarns required for attaining a pre-defined strength of PET/Cotton blended woven fabrics. The models were developed based on the empirical data obtained from carefully developed 234 fabric samples with different constructions using 15, 20, and 25 tex yarns in warp and weft directions. The prediction ability and accuracy of the developed models were assessed by correlation analyses of the predicted and actual warp and weft yarn strength values of another set of 36 fabric samples. The analyses showed a very strong ability and accuracy of the developed statistical prediction models.     

Warp and weft directional tensile properties of multistitched woven fabric E-glass/polyester nano composites

The aim of this study was to understand the warp and weft directional tensile properties of the developed two dimensional (2D) multistitched multilayer E-glass/polyester woven nano composites. It was found that the warp and weft directional specific tensile strength and modulus of unstitched structure were higher than those of the machine stitched and machine stitched/nano structures due to stitching caused filament breakages. When the nano silica material in the unstitched E-glass/polyester composite structure increased, the warp and weft directional specific tensile strength and the modulus of the unstitched/nano structures increased. The failure of warp and weft directional 2D unstitched and unstitched/nano woven E-glass/polyester composite structures had a complete delamination in their cross-sections. But, the failure of warp and weft directional 2D stitched and stitched/nano woven E-glass/polyester composite structures had a local delamination in their cross-sections and the failure was confined at a narrow area. The warp and weft directional specific damaged areas of unstitched structure were higher than those of the stitched and stitched/nano structures. Also, the warp and weft directional specific damaged areas of machine stitched structure were slightly higher than those of the machine stitched/nano structure. It could be concluded that the addition of nano silica to the stitched structures improved to their damage resistance.     

Comparison of tensile properties of co-woven-knitted and multi-layered biaxial weft-knitted fabric reinforced composites

The co-woven-knitted (CWK) fabric and multi-layered biaxial weft-knitted (MBWK) fabric were produced using glass filaments as warp and weft inserted yarns and high tenacity polyester as stitched yarns. Vacuum Assisted Resin Transfer Molding process was used to produce the two composites. Tensile tests were carried out in the course, wale and slanting directions of the composites, respectively. Specific stress-strain curves and failure modes of the two composites were investigated and compared. Results reveal that tensile strengths and elastic moduli of the two composites in the course and wale directions are better than those in the bias direction. All the composite samples fracture in the brittle damage mode. Furthermore, the buckling due to different inserted ways of the warp and weft yarns has a few influences on the tensile properties of the two composites. This research may lay a foundation for the establishment of the process windows for the co-woven-knitted reinforced composites.     

Effects of loom characteristics on the physical properties of PET fabrics for emotional clothing

The fabric defects complained by garment manufacturers are stop marks, streaky phenomena on the warp direction, thickness variation and color differences between edges on the right and left sides of the fabrics, which are partly due to the tension variation of warp and weft directions. It is well known that these defects are related to the difference of fabric mechanical property according to the loom characteristics and fabric position such as center and both edges parts of the fabric, which affect garment formability and wearing performance of garment. This research is focusing about which factor is dominant for the difference of fabric mechanical properties which affects garment formability and wearing performance between loom characteristic factor and fabric position factor such as center and both edges of the fabric, which is affected by warp and weft tensions. For this purpose, two kinds of looms were selected, and warp and weft tensions during weaving were measured and the mechanical properties of the fabrics woven by two kinds of looms such as tensile, bending, shear, compression and surface properties were also measured according to the positions such as center and both edge parts of the fabric. These fabric mechanical properties were examined with warp and weft tensions according to the looms and were also analyzed according to the positions of the fabric woven by two kinds of looms. The warp tension on the vicinity of center parts of the looms was much higher than those on the vicinity of both edges of looms. It revealed that the warp tension difference makes differences of fabric mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shear and surface properties except compressional property. And the differences of these mechanical properties according to the fabric positions and looms seem to make homogeneity of the fabric hand and tailorability of garment deteriorating.     

Assessment of color strength and color difference values of polyester fabrics containing continuous weft yarns after abrasion

This paper assesses the color difference and color strength values (K/S) obtained for eight disperse-dyed polyester fabric samples with different fabric construction parameters (weft yarn type, weft yarn count, weft density and fabric weave) after four sets of abrasion cycles. Warp yarn type and count, warp density, and warp yarn twist are the same for all fabrics. Fabric samples are dyed in a commercial red disperse dye (C.I. Disperse Red 74:1) and four different abrasion cycles (2500, 5000, 7500, 10000) are used. TheK/S values of the abraided fabrics and color difference values between the control fabric (dyed but not abraided) and abraded fabrics are calculated. The main differences in theK/S and color difference values are observed between 0–2500 abrasion cycles. The high tenacity of the polyester fibers and continuous polyester yarns causes some fuzz but no pilling formation on the fabric surface that lead to increasedK/S values and color differences. Fiber dullness, yarn thickness, yarn density and fabric weave are concluded to have different effects on the appearance after abrasion.     

Reflectance prediction of colored polyester fabrics by a novel formula

This paper focuses on the reflectance prediction of colored (unicolored) fabrics considering relationship between fractional reflectance values and cover factors of fabrics woven from polyester yarns. A novel equation for the calculation of relation between fractional reflectance and cover factor was proposed and usage of the equation was assessed by reflectance measurements. 48 dyed polyester fabrics having different constructional parameters were used and fabrics differed from each other by their cover factors. Warp yarn type and count, warp density and warp yarn twist were the same but weft yarn count, weft yarn fiber count and weft density were different for the fabrics in experimental sub-groups. The reflectance measurements were conducted on the dyed fabric samples as well as on the individual yarn systems (warp and weft) of the same fabrics. The proposed equation was tested according to different fabric constructional parameters and reasonable results with the experimental data were obtained. The possibilities of general use of derived mathematical relations between theoretical and measured reflectance values were researched. The relation obtained was used to explain the effects of different constructional parameters on reflectance behavior of fabric surfaces.     

Mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for emotional garment to the rapier loom characteristics

This study examined the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics woven using various rapier weaving looms. For this purpose, the warp and weft yarn tensions during weaving were measured on the three types of rapier looms, and the fabric mechanical property changes due to the warp and weft tension differences were measured and analyzed according to the fabric position and particular rapier loom using the KES-FB system. The warp tension variation along the loom width direction in P-GTX loom showed the lowest value compared to FAST and THEMA looms. The warp tensions on the central part of the three types of looms were much higher than those on the left and right sides of the looms. The extensibility and bending rigidity of the fabric woven by P-GTX rapier loom showed lower values than those of FAST and THEMA looms, which appears to have originated from the low warp and weft weaving tensions of P-GTX rapier loom. On the other hand, the compressional property and shear modulus showed compromised results due to lateral deformation by compression and constraint deformation of the warp and weft by shear. The friction coefficient of the fabric surface woven by FAST loom showed the lowest value due to the flatter surface by the high warp tension. The mechanical properties of the fabric loaded by a high warp tension on the central part of the loom were also affected by the high weft yarn crimp due to the wider spacing between warp yarns by the higher warp tension during weaving, which makes the surface of the central part of the fabric flatter and smoother than the edge part of the fabric.     

Predicting the tensile strength of polyester/cotton blended woven fabrics using feed forward back propagation artificial neural networks

Tensile strength plays a vital role in determining the mechanical behavior of woven fabrics. In this study, two artificial neural networks have been designed to predict the warp and weft wise tensile strength of polyester cotton blended fabrics. Various process and material related parameters have been considered for selection of vital few input parameters that significantly affect fabric tensile strength. A total of 270 fabric samples are woven with varying constructions. Application of nonlinear modeling technique and appreciable volume of data sets for training, testing and validating both prediction models resulted in best fitting of data and minimization of prediction error. Sensitivity analysis has been carried out for both models to determine the contribution percentage of input parameters and evaluating the most impacting variable on fabric strength.     

Crimp analysis of worsted fabrics in the terms of fabric extension behaviour

Inside a woven fabric structure, warp and weft yarns acquire crimp as a result of yarns interlacing according to the weave pattern. Since warp and weft yarns are oriented in two perpendicular directions, applying tensile load in one direction causes extension in the load side and fabric contraction in the opposite direction. This process was investigated in this study by using an image processing procedure and it was found that fabric’s extension is in coincidence with yarn’s de-crimping process in the same direction. After the de-crimping stage, yarns in the load direction will be extended and at the same time crimp in the other direction will be increased, until jamming phenomenon happens in the fabric structure. The crimp interchange between warp and weft yarns follows a three-order polynomial function with a turning point in which the yarns in the load direction have no crimp.     

A study on the structural properties of plain fabrics using the lenticular model

The structural properties of a plain fabric were considered using the lenticular model. The structure of a plain woven fabric can be defined in terms of warp yarn number, weft yarn number, warp fabric density, weft fabric density, warp crimp, and weft crimp. Many structural variables of the plain fabric could be calculated by the lenticular model using these terms. Also, this model can be used to explain the geometry of the flattened yarns that occur during the weaving process. Flattening factors of threads for various types of fibers were calculated, compared, and explained with the number of yarn twist. Flattening factors were found to affect the structural variables of the fabric such as fabric thickness, air permeability, and yarn crimp. Yarn crimp was also studied with variation of the structural variables of the fabric.     

Evaluation of the structural properties of plain fabrics woven from various fibers using Peirce’s model

Peirce’s fabric model has been widely used to predict the structural behavior of various plain woven fabrics. The structure of plain woven fabric can be defined in terms of the warp yarn number, weft yarn number, warp fabric density, weft fabric density, warp crimp, and weft crimp. The warp and weft yarn diameters are calculated from the warp and weft yarn numbers, and the effective coefficient of the yarn diameter is defined by using this model. We have investigated structural properties, such as the effective coefficient of the yarn diameter, yarn crimp, and fabric thickness for two different fabrics in which the constituent yarns are assumed to be either incompressible or compressible. This model is also applied to various plain fabrics woven from cotton, rayon, wool, linen, nylon, acetate, polyester, and silk yarns.     

Effect of filament size on the water transport of weft and warp knitted fabrics

Warp and weft knitted fabrics comprising polyethylene terephthalate/Co-PET sea-island bicomponent fibers were fabricated in this study. The knitted fabrics were treated in alkali solution to develop knitted fabrics composed of nano-scale filaments. The structural change and water transport behavior of the alkali-treated knitted fabrics were then compared. Results revealed that the filament diameters decreased from 20 µm to 850 nm after alkali treatment. The porosities of warp and weft knitted fabrics decreased by 4.8 % and 10.1 %, respectively, whereas their area densities increased by 68.8 % and 67.2 %, respectively. The wicking height and wicking rate of both types of fabric composed of microfilaments increased with prolonged alkali-treatment time. However, the water absorption properties such as absorption capacity and absorption rate of the knitted fabrics composed of nano-scale filaments significantly increased because of their low porosity and high area density.     

Development of moisture transition ability on porous complex structured woven fabric with convergence of pattern,porosity, and plasma technology

A porous complex structured woven fabric was manufactured to maximize the moisture transition ability of the prepared fabric by increasing the absorptive property of the fabric through surface modification using plasma, which is a dry modification method. Porous single and complex structured woven fabrics were produced by applying pattern, porosity, and plasma technology, including fabric patterning based on the sheath/core complex structure, the formation of porosity by removing the weft thread or warp thread, and hydrophilic surface treatment using plasma and the improvement in water absorption of different fabrics by the porous and plasma treatment was investigated. Therefore, two different types of fabrics were prepared. One is the porous single structured FAB-SINGLE fabric which was taken out in the direction of the Polyester (PET) warp thread of a general single structure to form a porous. Another is FAB-COMPLEX fabrics that the water-soluble polylactic acid (PLA) yarns with a 1.7 to 2.0 times longer absorption distance than that of PET yarns were inserted into the weft threads, and the PLA yarns were dissolved in a solvent to form the porous complex fabric. And then the physical properties and water absorption of the two types of fabric were compared after the plasma treatment. The results showed that when the FAB-SINGLE fabric, which has porosity induced by the removal of the warp threads in a certain gap, was plasma treated for 5 min, the contact angle was decreased to the extent that a measurement of the contact angle was impossible, whereas the fabric that had not undergone a plasma treatment had a contact angle of 123.6 o. The contact angle of the FABCOMPLEX with porosity caused by the dissolution of the PLA yarns was reduced from 76.8 o to 0 o after 3 minutes of a lowtemperature plasma treatment, indicating that the hydrophilic property was increased. In addition, the water absorption measurements showed that the absorption height was increased from 2.3 cm of the fabric sample that had not been treated with plasma to the highest absorption height of 8.3 cm, suggesting that the water absorption also increased with the improvements in moisture transition ability by the plasma treatment. The physical tensile strength of the fabrics was not changed by the plasma treatment, despite the changes on the fabric surface, suggesting that the combination of double complex structures and the plasma treatment helped improve the water absorption.     

A bio-antifelting agent based on waterborne polyurethane and keratin polypeptides extracted by protease from waste wool

A bio-composite made from keratin polypeptides and waterborne polyurethane was firstly employed as a bioantifelting agent for wool fabric. The keratin polypeptides, extracted from the waste wool fibers with the protease Esperase8.0L, possessed 5271 weight-average molecular weight. The bio-composites containing different contents of keratin polypeptides were applied for wool anti-felting treatment by a pad-dry-cure process. The results indicated that with increasing content of keratin polypeptides from 0 to 6 wt.%, the area-shrinking rate of the treated wool fabrics was decreased from 4.55 % to 0.47 %, respectively. The warp and weft tensile strength at break of the fabric was increased by 8 % and 12 %, respectively and reduced by about 55 % consumption of waterborne polyurethane. The film of bio-composites had more excellent thermal stability, higher mechanical property in elasticity, and better cytocompatibility compared with the pure waterborne polyurethane film.