用柞蚕丝素/柠檬酸对柞蚕丝绸的抗皱增重整理研究

为了改善柞蚕丝绸的服饰功能,自制柞蚕丝素与柠檬酸混合液对柞蚕丝绸进行抗皱增重整理。测试了柞蚕丝绸整理前及以不同整理剂整理后的折皱回复角、增重率、撕破强力、白度、悬垂系数、染色深度等性能指标,并通过正交试验确定柞蚕丝绸抗皱整理的最佳工艺条件为柞蚕丝素质量浓度30 g/L、柠檬酸质量浓度50 g/L、次亚磷酸钠质量浓度30 g/L、焙烘温度160℃、焙烘时间2.5 min,确定增重整理的最佳工艺条件为柞蚕丝素质量浓度30 g/L、柠檬酸质量浓度80 g/L、次亚磷酸钠质量浓度30 g/L、焙烘温度150℃、焙烘时间2.5 min。在最佳抗皱整理条件下,柞蚕丝绸的折皱回复角提高了36.7%,增重率为5.86%,撕破强力和白度的保留率分别为86.1%和90.8%,表观色深值增加1倍多。试验结果表明,柞蚕丝绸经柞蚕丝素/柠檬酸混合液整理后的抗皱性能、悬垂性能及柔软度和染色性能均有改善。

A Study on Anti-crease and Weight Increment Finishing of Tussah Silk Fabric with Tussah Silk Fibroin and Citric Acid Mixture

To improve the wearability of tussah silk fabrics,tussah silk fabrics were treated for anti-crease and weight increment finishing with the prepared tussah silk fibroin and citric acid mixture.The wrinkle recovery angle(WRA),weight gain,tearing strength,whiteness,draping coefficient,dyeing depth and other properties of tussah silk fabrics before finishing and after finishing with different finishing agents were determined and compared.The optimal finishing conditions for anti-crease of the tussah silk fabrics obtained from orthogonal experiment were as follows: mass concentration of tus-sah silk fibroin 30 g /L,mass concentration of citric acid 50 g /L,mass concentration of sodium hypophosphite 30 g /L,curing temperature 160 ℃,and curing time 2.5 min.The optimal finishing conditions for weight increment were as follows: mass concentration of tussah silk fibroin 30 g /L,mass concentration of citric acid 80 g /L,mass concentration of sodium hypophosphite 30 g /L,curing temperature 150 ℃,and curing time 2.5 min.The result showed that WRA of the treated silk fabric was 36.7% higher and the weight gain was 5.86% under the optimal anti-crease finishing conditions.Meanwhile,the tearing strength and whiteness retention rate were 86.1% and 90.8% respectively,and the apparent color depth was increased by over 1 fold.The above results indicated that anti-crease property,draping property,softness and coloring property of the tussah silk fabric can be improved by treatment with tussah silk fibroin and citric acid mixture.