The effect of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness of polyester fabrics

The effects of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness values of textured polyester woven fabrics with different constructional parameters were investigated. The warp yarn properties (type, count and warp density) were kept constant while the effect of variation in weft yarn density and weave pattern were studied. Measurements were conducted on pre-treated white fabric samples and the results assessed in relation to their constructional properties. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness values of polyester fabrics affected by fabric balance and fabric cover and the effects were related to fabric thickness, yarn densities, yarn crimp, positioning of yarns in fabric structure. A change in weave pattern from sateen to plain increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased the surface roughness. Similarly, an increase in weft density increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased surface roughness. In order to produce fabrics with smooth surface properties yarn density should be increased, yarn float lengths decreased, cover of fabrics increased and fabric balance improved.     

Assessing the relationship among fabric constructional parameters, fractional reflectances and cover factors of polyester fabrics by experimental and mathematical methods

This paper focuses on the assessment of the relation among constructional properties, fractional reflectances and cover factors of fabrics woven from polyester yarns. A novel equation for the calculation of the relation between fractional reflectance and fabric cover factor was proposed and the usage of the equation was assessed by reflectance measurements. 48 polyester fabrics having different constructional parameters were used and the fabrics differed from each other by their cover factors. The warp yarn type and count, warp density and warp yarn twist were the same but weft yarn count, weft yarn fiber count and weft density were different for the fabrics in the experimental sub-groups. The reflectance measurements were conducted on the pretreated but undyed fabric samples as well as on the individual yarn systems of the same fabrics. Fabrics with the same cover factors exhibited different fractional reflectances. Reflectances were found to be dependent on the cover factor as well as on yarn fiber fineness, yarn count, yarn density and fabric weave. The changes in crimp of the yarns according to different construction parameters also governed the changes in fractional reflectances of fabric surfaces. The proposed equation was tested according to different fabric construction parameters and it was concluded that fiber fineness and weave pattern were among the most important parameters which govern the total light reflectances from the fabric surfaces, although they are not incorporated in the calculation of the fabric cover factors. The proposed equation was used to explain the effects of these components on the reflectance behavior of the fabric surfaces and on fabric cover.     

Evaluation of the structural properties of plain fabrics woven from various fibers using Peirce’s model

Peirce’s fabric model has been widely used to predict the structural behavior of various plain woven fabrics. The structure of plain woven fabric can be defined in terms of the warp yarn number, weft yarn number, warp fabric density, weft fabric density, warp crimp, and weft crimp. The warp and weft yarn diameters are calculated from the warp and weft yarn numbers, and the effective coefficient of the yarn diameter is defined by using this model. We have investigated structural properties, such as the effective coefficient of the yarn diameter, yarn crimp, and fabric thickness for two different fabrics in which the constituent yarns are assumed to be either incompressible or compressible. This model is also applied to various plain fabrics woven from cotton, rayon, wool, linen, nylon, acetate, polyester, and silk yarns.     

Comparative study of cellulase treatment on low stress mechanical properties of cotton denim fabric made by torque-free ring spun yarn

Cellulase is useful for bio-polishing cotton fabrics which enhances their aesthetic performance instead of stonewashing process. Torque-free ring spun process is a widely used technique to produce newly low-twist and balanced torque yarns with soft hand. In this paper, denim fabrics woven with torque-free ring spun yarn and conventional ring spun yarn respectively were treated with cellulase under the same condition and their fabric handle, expressed as low stress mechanical properties, such as tensile strength, bending, shearing, compression and surface performance were investigated by Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F). After cellulase treatment, both denim fabrics revealed better flexibility, elasticity recovery, raised shearing stiffness, fluffier and improved smoothness. While torque-free ring spun yarn made denim fabric showed a better fabric handle than conventional ring spun yarn made denim fabric.     

Effects of sample dimensions on pull-out properties of woven fabric structures

The aim of this study was to understand the effects of fabric sample dimensions on pull-out properties of fabric weaves. Polyester woven fabrics were used to conduct the pull-out tests. A yarn pull-out fixture was developed and data generated from this research. Yarn pull-out forces depend on sample dimensions, fabric density, fabric weave, and number of pulled ends in the fabric. Results showed that multiple and single yarn pull-out forces of long samples were higher than those of short samples, and the multiple yarn pull-out force was higher than that of the single yarn pull-out force, and dense fabric has high pull-out force. Plain fabric weave showed high single and multiple pull-out forces compared to ribs and satin fabric weaves. The regression model could be used in this study as a viable and reliable tool. This research could be valuable for development of multifunctional fabrics in technical textile applications.     

Woven Kenaf/Kevlar Hybrid Yarn as potential fiber reinforced for anti-ballistic composite material

Woven Kenaf/Kevlar Hybrid Yarn is the combination of natural and synthetic fibers in the form of thread or yarn. The yarn is weaved to form a fabric type of fiber reinforced material. Then, the fabric is fabricated with epoxy as the resin to form a hybrid composite. For composite fabrication, woven fabric Kenaf/Kevlar hybrid yarn composite was prepared with vacuum bagging hand lay-up method. Woven fabric Kenaf/Kevlar hybrid yarn composite was fabricated with total fiber content of 40 % and 60 % of Epoxy as the matrix. The fiber ratios of Kenaf/Kevlar hybrid yarn were varied in weight fraction of 30/70, 50/50 and 70/30 respectively. The composites of woven fabric Kenaf/Epoxy and woven fabric Kevlar/Epoxy were also fabricated for comparison. The mechanical properties of five (5) samples composites were tested accordingly. Result has shown that of value of strength and modulus woven fabric Kenaf/Kevlar Hybrid Yarn composite was increased when the Kevlar fiber content increased. Therefore, among the hybrid composite samples result showed the woven fabric Kenaf/Kevlar Hybrid Yarn composites with the composition of 30/70 ratio has exhibited the highest energy absorption with 148.8 J which 28 % lower than Kevlar 100 % sample. The finding indicated there is a potential combination of natural fiber with synthetic fiber that can be fabricated as the composite material for the application of high performance product.     

Pull-out properties of polyester woven fabrics: Effects of softening agent and interlacement on single and multiple yarn pull-out forces and analysis by statistical model

The aim of this study was to understand the effects of softening treatment on pull-out properties of plain, ribs and satin fabrics. Polyester woven fabrics were used to conduct the pull-out tests. Data generated from these tests included pullout force, crimp extension and fabric displacement. A developed yarn pull-out fixture was used to perform single and multiple pull-out tests on treated and untreated polyester fabrics. Yarn pull-out forces depend on fabric treatments, fabric density, fabric weave, and the number of pulled ends in the fabric. The results of regression model showed that multiple and single yarn pull-out forces of treated fabrics were lower than those of untreated fabrics. The multiple yarn pull-out force was higher than that of the single yarn pull-out force, and that dense fabric had a high pull-out force. Treated and untreated plain fabrics had high single and multiple pull-out forces compared to those of treated and untreated ribs and satin fabrics. Yarn crimp extension depends on directional crimp ratios in the fabric and the number of pulled yarn ends. High directional crimp ratio fabric showed high directional yarn crimp extension. Fabric displacement depends on the number of pulled yarn ends and also fabric treatments. Fabric displacement in multiple pull-out tests showed high fabric displacement compared to that of single pull-out tests. On the other hand, the regression model could be used in this study as a viable and reliable tool.     

Influence of the deformation mode on seam slippage in woven fabrics

In the present study the influence of the deformation mode, of the specimen elongation deformation, of the fabrics?? weave type, of fabrics?? direction and of the position of seam allowances in respect to the stitching line on the seam slippage in the raw plain, twill and combined-twill weave fabrics was investigated. Fabrics were woven with the warp yarn of 20×2 tex 70 % cotton and 30 % PES blended 2-ply spun yarn and the weft yarn of 18 tex 100 % PES folded multifilament yarn using jacquard weaving machine ??Lindaucer DORNER GmbH??. Seam slippage of the investigated woven fabrics was determined using the new simple and compact technical device suitable to test fabrics for seam slippage property within five different deformation modes: an uniaxial tension of seams with opened seam allowances on the surface of metal table; an uniaxial tension of seams with bent to one side allowances in respect to stitching line on the surface of the metal table; an unrestricted uniaxial tension of seams; a bagging of seams with bent to one side allowances in respect to the stitching line using the plastic hollow cylinder; a bagging of seams with opened seam allowances using the plastic hollow cylinder. The results of the research had proved that seam slippage of the investigated woven fabrics was dependent on the deformation mode, on the elongation of sewn specimens, on the location of allowances in respect to the stitching line, on the fabric weave type as well as on the woven fabric direction.     

Predicting bending rigidity of woven fabrics using artificial neural networks

This paper reports an investigation on the predictability of bending property of woven fabrics from their constructional parameters using artificial neural network (ANN) approach. Number of cotton grey fabrics made of plain and satin weave designs were desized, scoured, and relaxed. The fabrics were then conditioned and tested for bending properties. Thread density in fabric, yarn linear density, twist in yarn, and weave design were accounted as input parameters for the model whereas bending rigidity in warp and weft directions of fabric formed the outputs. Gradient descent with momentum and an adaptive learning rate back-propagation was employed as learning algorithm to train the network. A sensitivity analysis was carried out to study the robustness of the model.     

Electromagnetic shielding characteristics of woven fabrics made of hybrid yarns containing metal wire

In this study, electromagnetic shielding characteristics of woven fabrics made of hybrid yarns are investigated. For this purpose, initially the hybrid yarns containing stainless steel wire are produced with hollow spindle covering technique, and then eight different fabric samples are produced using these hybrid yarns. Electromagnetic shielding values of fabric samples are determined by a test set up based on enclosure measurement technique. Measurements are made in the frequency range of 30 MHz-9.93 GHz. Test results show that woven fabric samples investigated in this study have 25–65 dB electromagnetic shielding effectiveness for incident frequency. It was also shown that the direction, density and settlement type of conductive hybrid yarn in fabric structure are important parameters affecting electromagnetic shielding characteristics of woven fabrics.     

Mechanical properties and hand evaluation of hemp woven fabrics treated with liquid ammonia

The effects of liquid ammonia (L/A) treatment on the mechanical properties and hand of 100 % hemp woven fabrics were investigated by the KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric). Tensile energy and tensile resilience were increased by the L/A treatment. Bending and shearing values such as bending rigidity, bending moment, shear stiffness, shear hysteresis of the L/A treated fabrics were lower than those of the untreated ones. Compressional linearity and compressional energy were decreased while the compressional resilience was increased by the L/A treatment. From the hand evaluation, the primary hand values as well as total hand value of the hemp fabric were markedly increased by the L/A treatment, especially when yarn number was fine. Therefore, L/A treatment was found to be an effective method of improving the flexibility and softness of hemp woven fabrics.     

New production method for a plain weave figured fabric

A new production method for figured fabric has been developed. The figured fabric generated in this study is a plain weave piled fabric and it shows the same figure on both sides unlike those fabrics woven on dobby or jacquard looms. It is woven by a specialty yarn called the chenille yarn which is obtained by separating each warp of a base fabric woven in leno structure. The base fabric is woven by inserting different colored weft each time in a certain sequence arranged according to the target figure image. A CAD software and a computerized controller have been developed to control all the motions of a conventional rapier loom and to handle the numerous weft insertion schedule efficiently.     

Electromagnetic interference shielding effectiveness of SS/PET hybrid yarn incorporated woven fabrics

A detailed study of electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMSE) of woven fabrics made of polyester and stainless steel/polyester blended conductive yarn was presented in this research work. Fabrics with different structures were analyzed and their shielding behavior was reported under different frequencies. Shielding efficiency of fabric was analyzed by vector network analyzer in the frequency range of 300 kHz to 1.5 GHz using coaxial transmission line holder. The effects of different fabric parameters such as weft density, proportion of conductive weft yarn, proportion of stainless steel content, grid openness, weave pattern and number of fabric layers on EMSE of fabrics were studied. The EMSE of fabric was found to be increased with increase in proportion of conductive yarn in the weft way. With increase in overall stainless-steel content in the fabric, the EMSE of fabric was increased. As such weave is considered, it did not have significant effect on EMSE of fabrics. But fabric with lower openness and aperture ratio showed better conducting network, hence better shielding. With increase in number of layers of fabric and ply yarns, EMSE of fabric was increased.     

Photoilluminance of different woven structures by treatment with phosphorescent pigment

The work is focused on study of photoilluminance of woven fabrics. Plain, twill, and matt woven structures are investigated after application of the phosphorescent agent. Samples were kept under observation for different periods of time in completely sealed box where light couldn’t enter from any side. Lux meter was used to measure the intensity of light. As the charging time increases, glowing time also increases and the weave structure having greater capacity to absorb light radiations from the source, glows for a longer duration of time. The weave having larger number of intersections facilitates greater absorption of light photons and the weaves having relatively lower number of intersections have a smaller capacity to absorb light radiations. Longer yarn floats in the fabric, tend to reflect higher portion of light, which in turn causes less charging of the phosphorescent fabric. Thus a shorter glow time is observed. Tensile and tear strength was mesaured for all fabric samples before and after application of phosphorescent pigment so as to observe the effect of treatment on mechanical properties.     

Effect of softeners and crosslinking conditions on the performance of easy-care cotton fabrics with different weave constructions

This study reports an experimental investigation on the effect of softeners, crosslinking conditions, and laundering on the comfort related and low stress mechanical properties of cotton fabrics with different weave constructions. Softeners with different chemical natures, in conjunction with the crosslinking agent and catalyst, were padded onto the cotton fabrics of three types of weave constructions, viz. plain, twill, and a newly developed plant-structured weave design. Two crosslinking conditions, namely dry and moist curing conditions, were compared. Scanning electron microscope (SEM) and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscope were used to visualize and quantify the morphological and chemical changes on fabrics. The experimental results showed that the dry-crosslinking condition is preferable to achieve better comfort and easy-care properties, while moist-crosslinking condition is a better choice when strength-related properties are the main requirement. The study further showed that silicone elastomer softener can be applied to improve fabric strength whereas micro-emulsion of functional amino-polysiloxane plus emulsion containing polyalkylene is beneficial for comfort characteristic. The plant-structured cotton fabric finished in the dry-crosslinking condition with softener in nano-emulsion form can result in superb water absorption, excellent air permeability, good handle, acceptable strength, and improved easycare property.     

Prediction of the fabric’s crease recovery property with Taguchi design of experiment

The creasing characteristic of fabrics is affected by many factors like yarn twist, fabric density, fabric constructions, fabric thickness apart from the fiber type. In the first part of this study, the effect of yarn fineness, yarn twist, fabric tightness and weave construction factors on crease recovery was studied. In the second part of the study, in order to improve the creasing recovery of the fabrics, shape memory alloy (SMA) wires were used and the effect of shape memory alloy (SMA) wire on the crease recovery of cotton fabrics produced with different types of weave constructions were determined. Due to the high cost of SMA wire and the weaving operation adversity the two experimental plans were designed according to Taguchi design of experiment (TDOE). From the analysis of the first part, it was found that the yarn linear density had the greatest effect on fabric crease recovery compare to others. Twist coefficient was the second, weft density was third and the weave construction had the least significant effect on the crease recovery. The fabrics produced with coarser and low twisted yarns with high tightness and longer floats in the weave construction have higher crease recovery property. In the second part of the study, the application of the SMA wire significantly increased the crease recovery angle of the fabrics. The thickness of the SMA wire is very important and the effect depends on the wire thickness. The increase of the SMA wire thickness increases the crease recovery significantly. However it must be appropriate with the yarn and fabric properties. The distance between the SMA wire distances was expected to increase the crease recovery however the effect was found not significant. The fabrics produced with coarser yarns with longer floats in the weave construction have higher crease recovery property. However, statistically the effects of these parameters were found not significant due to the dominant effect of the wire thickness.     

Key Characteristics of a Novel Silk Yarn from Fresh Cocoons

We studied the key characteristics of a novel silk yarn reeled from fresh cocoons. Compared with traditional silk yarn, this novel silk yarn displayed better mechanical properties, especially in terms of a higher breaking stress and toughness, and exhibited a different surface morphology. A cross-sectional observation and the sericin content results illustrated that different sericin coatings on the silk yarn reeled from fresh cocoons surface did not improve the mechanical properties. The degumming and tensile testing analysis indicated that degummed silk fibroin of novel silk yarn is able to resist deformation and fracture better than silk fibroin of traditional silk yarn. The FTIR results revealed that the selected techniques is an important contributor to the silk fibroin mechanical properties, because novel technique brought higher percentage beta-sheet structures in novel silk yarn fibroin than traditional silk yarn. The new technique that using novel silk yarn has improved its mechanical properties and it is expected that the silk yarn with superior mechanical properties could be used in fabrics transistors, electrodes and reinforced biomaterials.     

Assessment of the surface roughness of cotton fabrics through different yarn and fabric structural properties

The effects of some yarn properties (i.e. type, count, twist level, ply number, unevenness and crimp) and fabric constructional properties (i.e. cover, thickness and balance) on surface roughness values of cotton woven fabrics were investigated. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness values of fabrics were affected from yarn and fabric properties and the effects were related to fabric balance, fabric cover (not cover factor), fabric thickness and crimp values of yarns in fabric structures. Surface roughness values of fabrics decreased as yarn fineness and yarn twist levels increased but as yarn ply number decreased. Also, surface roughness values gradually decreased from open-end yarn constituting fabrics to combed yarn constituting fabrics. Results showed that different properties of yarns caused changes in yarn crimps in fabric structure and also governed the changes in fabric balance, as well as changes in roughness of fabric surfaces. The changing properties of yarns and impact of these properties on fabric construction affected the formation of cotton fabric surfaces from smooth to coarse.     

Mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for emotional garment to the rapier loom characteristics

This study examined the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics woven using various rapier weaving looms. For this purpose, the warp and weft yarn tensions during weaving were measured on the three types of rapier looms, and the fabric mechanical property changes due to the warp and weft tension differences were measured and analyzed according to the fabric position and particular rapier loom using the KES-FB system. The warp tension variation along the loom width direction in P-GTX loom showed the lowest value compared to FAST and THEMA looms. The warp tensions on the central part of the three types of looms were much higher than those on the left and right sides of the looms. The extensibility and bending rigidity of the fabric woven by P-GTX rapier loom showed lower values than those of FAST and THEMA looms, which appears to have originated from the low warp and weft weaving tensions of P-GTX rapier loom. On the other hand, the compressional property and shear modulus showed compromised results due to lateral deformation by compression and constraint deformation of the warp and weft by shear. The friction coefficient of the fabric surface woven by FAST loom showed the lowest value due to the flatter surface by the high warp tension. The mechanical properties of the fabric loaded by a high warp tension on the central part of the loom were also affected by the high weft yarn crimp due to the wider spacing between warp yarns by the higher warp tension during weaving, which makes the surface of the central part of the fabric flatter and smoother than the edge part of the fabric.