Evaluation of the structural properties of plain fabrics woven from various fibers using Peirce’s model

Peirce’s fabric model has been widely used to predict the structural behavior of various plain woven fabrics. The structure of plain woven fabric can be defined in terms of the warp yarn number, weft yarn number, warp fabric density, weft fabric density, warp crimp, and weft crimp. The warp and weft yarn diameters are calculated from the warp and weft yarn numbers, and the effective coefficient of the yarn diameter is defined by using this model. We have investigated structural properties, such as the effective coefficient of the yarn diameter, yarn crimp, and fabric thickness for two different fabrics in which the constituent yarns are assumed to be either incompressible or compressible. This model is also applied to various plain fabrics woven from cotton, rayon, wool, linen, nylon, acetate, polyester, and silk yarns.     

The effect of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness of polyester fabrics

The effects of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness values of textured polyester woven fabrics with different constructional parameters were investigated. The warp yarn properties (type, count and warp density) were kept constant while the effect of variation in weft yarn density and weave pattern were studied. Measurements were conducted on pre-treated white fabric samples and the results assessed in relation to their constructional properties. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness values of polyester fabrics affected by fabric balance and fabric cover and the effects were related to fabric thickness, yarn densities, yarn crimp, positioning of yarns in fabric structure. A change in weave pattern from sateen to plain increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased the surface roughness. Similarly, an increase in weft density increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased surface roughness. In order to produce fabrics with smooth surface properties yarn density should be increased, yarn float lengths decreased, cover of fabrics increased and fabric balance improved.     

Assessing the relationship among fabric constructional parameters, fractional reflectances and cover factors of polyester fabrics by experimental and mathematical methods

This paper focuses on the assessment of the relation among constructional properties, fractional reflectances and cover factors of fabrics woven from polyester yarns. A novel equation for the calculation of the relation between fractional reflectance and fabric cover factor was proposed and the usage of the equation was assessed by reflectance measurements. 48 polyester fabrics having different constructional parameters were used and the fabrics differed from each other by their cover factors. The warp yarn type and count, warp density and warp yarn twist were the same but weft yarn count, weft yarn fiber count and weft density were different for the fabrics in the experimental sub-groups. The reflectance measurements were conducted on the pretreated but undyed fabric samples as well as on the individual yarn systems of the same fabrics. Fabrics with the same cover factors exhibited different fractional reflectances. Reflectances were found to be dependent on the cover factor as well as on yarn fiber fineness, yarn count, yarn density and fabric weave. The changes in crimp of the yarns according to different construction parameters also governed the changes in fractional reflectances of fabric surfaces. The proposed equation was tested according to different fabric construction parameters and it was concluded that fiber fineness and weave pattern were among the most important parameters which govern the total light reflectances from the fabric surfaces, although they are not incorporated in the calculation of the fabric cover factors. The proposed equation was used to explain the effects of these components on the reflectance behavior of the fabric surfaces and on fabric cover.     

Electromagnetic interference shielding effectiveness of SS/PET hybrid yarn incorporated woven fabrics

A detailed study of electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMSE) of woven fabrics made of polyester and stainless steel/polyester blended conductive yarn was presented in this research work. Fabrics with different structures were analyzed and their shielding behavior was reported under different frequencies. Shielding efficiency of fabric was analyzed by vector network analyzer in the frequency range of 300 kHz to 1.5 GHz using coaxial transmission line holder. The effects of different fabric parameters such as weft density, proportion of conductive weft yarn, proportion of stainless steel content, grid openness, weave pattern and number of fabric layers on EMSE of fabrics were studied. The EMSE of fabric was found to be increased with increase in proportion of conductive yarn in the weft way. With increase in overall stainless-steel content in the fabric, the EMSE of fabric was increased. As such weave is considered, it did not have significant effect on EMSE of fabrics. But fabric with lower openness and aperture ratio showed better conducting network, hence better shielding. With increase in number of layers of fabric and ply yarns, EMSE of fabric was increased.     

Assessment of color strength and color difference values of polyester fabrics containing continuous weft yarns after abrasion

This paper assesses the color difference and color strength values (K/S) obtained for eight disperse-dyed polyester fabric samples with different fabric construction parameters (weft yarn type, weft yarn count, weft density and fabric weave) after four sets of abrasion cycles. Warp yarn type and count, warp density, and warp yarn twist are the same for all fabrics. Fabric samples are dyed in a commercial red disperse dye (C.I. Disperse Red 74:1) and four different abrasion cycles (2500, 5000, 7500, 10000) are used. TheK/S values of the abraided fabrics and color difference values between the control fabric (dyed but not abraided) and abraded fabrics are calculated. The main differences in theK/S and color difference values are observed between 0–2500 abrasion cycles. The high tenacity of the polyester fibers and continuous polyester yarns causes some fuzz but no pilling formation on the fabric surface that lead to increasedK/S values and color differences. Fiber dullness, yarn thickness, yarn density and fabric weave are concluded to have different effects on the appearance after abrasion.     

Predicting bending rigidity of woven fabrics using artificial neural networks

This paper reports an investigation on the predictability of bending property of woven fabrics from their constructional parameters using artificial neural network (ANN) approach. Number of cotton grey fabrics made of plain and satin weave designs were desized, scoured, and relaxed. The fabrics were then conditioned and tested for bending properties. Thread density in fabric, yarn linear density, twist in yarn, and weave design were accounted as input parameters for the model whereas bending rigidity in warp and weft directions of fabric formed the outputs. Gradient descent with momentum and an adaptive learning rate back-propagation was employed as learning algorithm to train the network. A sensitivity analysis was carried out to study the robustness of the model.     

Organic solvent absorption characteristics of split-type microfiber fabrics

Split-type nylon/polyester microfiber and polyester microfiber fabrics possess drapeability, softness, bulkiness, and smoothness, so that they can be applied in various industrial fields. In particular, these fabrics are able to absorb various organic solvents, and can be used as clean room materials. To investigate the chemical affinity between solvents and the compositional materials of these fabrics, the contact angle of thermally pressed film fabrics was measured with different solvents. The thermally pressed nylon/polyester fabric films showed a chemical attraction to formamide. The sorption properties of the microfiber fabrics were investigated using a real time testing device, and these tests showed that the sorption behavior was more influenced by the structure of the fibrous assembly than by any chemical attraction. The effect of the fabric density, specific weight, and sample structure on the sorption capacity and rate was examined for various organic solvents. The sorption capacity was influenced by the density and the specific weight of the fibrous assembly, and knitted fabric showed a higher sorption capacity than woven fabric. However, the sorption rate was less affected in lower viscosity solvents. On applying Poiseuille’s Law, the lower viscosity solvents showed higher initial sorption rates, and more easily penetrated into the fibrous assembly.     

Prediction of the fabric’s crease recovery property with Taguchi design of experiment

The creasing characteristic of fabrics is affected by many factors like yarn twist, fabric density, fabric constructions, fabric thickness apart from the fiber type. In the first part of this study, the effect of yarn fineness, yarn twist, fabric tightness and weave construction factors on crease recovery was studied. In the second part of the study, in order to improve the creasing recovery of the fabrics, shape memory alloy (SMA) wires were used and the effect of shape memory alloy (SMA) wire on the crease recovery of cotton fabrics produced with different types of weave constructions were determined. Due to the high cost of SMA wire and the weaving operation adversity the two experimental plans were designed according to Taguchi design of experiment (TDOE). From the analysis of the first part, it was found that the yarn linear density had the greatest effect on fabric crease recovery compare to others. Twist coefficient was the second, weft density was third and the weave construction had the least significant effect on the crease recovery. The fabrics produced with coarser and low twisted yarns with high tightness and longer floats in the weave construction have higher crease recovery property. In the second part of the study, the application of the SMA wire significantly increased the crease recovery angle of the fabrics. The thickness of the SMA wire is very important and the effect depends on the wire thickness. The increase of the SMA wire thickness increases the crease recovery significantly. However it must be appropriate with the yarn and fabric properties. The distance between the SMA wire distances was expected to increase the crease recovery however the effect was found not significant. The fabrics produced with coarser yarns with longer floats in the weave construction have higher crease recovery property. However, statistically the effects of these parameters were found not significant due to the dominant effect of the wire thickness.     

Sound absorption and viscoelastic property of acoustical automotive nonwovens and their plasma treatment

Sound absorption property, viscoelastic property and the effect of plasma treatment of four automotive nonwoven fabrics on these properties are discussed in this research paper. Needle-punched fabrics used for vehicle headliner include 2 polyester fabrics made of hollow polyester fibers or solid polyester fibers, and 2 polypropylene-composite cellulose fabrics made of jute fibers or kenaf fibers, manufactured with the same web structure of apparent fabric density and fabric thickness. Hollow polyester fiber fabric has the highest sound absorption and the highest loss factor, the second highest is jute fiber fabric. The viscoelastic property is found to be related to the sound absorption property of fabric. The plasma treatment on nonwoven fabrics changes their sound absorption and viscoelastic property as well as their fabric weight and pore size. Hollow polyester fabric shows the increased sound absorption and viscoelastic property after the treatment with the increased pore sizes, while regular polyester fabric displays insignificant changes. The cellulose fabrics are more affected by plasma treatment compared to the polyester fabrics in terms of fabric weight loss and pore size, and jute fabric is more affected than kenaf fabric due to fiber weakness. The jute fabric demonstrates the decreased sound absorption and viscoelastic property, while kenaf fabric shows the increased sound absorption with the unchanged viscoelastic property after the treatment.     

Application of electrospun polyurethane web to breathable water-proof fabrics

Electrospun web may possibly be widely applied to protective garments or specialty textiles due to its high level of protection as well as comfort. Of particular interest in this study is to develop waterproof-breathable fabric by applying electrospun web of polyurethane directly onto the substrate fabric. The optimal electrospinning condition was examined with regards to the concentration, applied voltage and tip-to-collector distance. Solvent-electospinning of polyurethane was performed at the optimum condition, using N,N-dimethylacetamide as solvent. The thickness of 0.02 mm of electrospun web was applied onto the polyester/nylon blended fabric. For comparison, the polyester/nylon fabrics were coated with 0.02 mm thickness of polyurethane resin membranes adopting four different conditions. The electrospun PU web/fabric was compared to resin coated fabrics in terms of water-proof and breathable properties. The electrospun web applied fabric showed higher air permeability, vapor transmission, and thermal insulation properties than resin coated fabrics, which can be translated as greater comfort sensation of electrospun applied fabrics. However, water resistance value of electrospun web applied fabric did not reach that of resin coated fabrics.     

Engineering design of woven fabrics using non-traditional optimization methods: A comparative study

This work aims to design woven fabrics with desired quality at optimum manufacturing cost by choice of suitable weaving parameters such as count, crimp and thread spacing of warp and weft yarns. To fulfill this goal, we endeavor to devise search based non-traditional optimization methods such as genetic algorithm, particle swarm optimization and simulated annealing for efficiently finding the appropriate combination of weave parameters. The quick response capability of the non-traditional optimization methods would benefit the fabric manufacturers for efficient determination of the required weaving parameters to produce the engineered fabrics. The experimental validation confirms that the particle swarm optimization is most suitable technique for engineering design of woven fabrics.     

An investigation in structural parameters of needle-punched nonwoven fabrics on their thermal insulation property

The thermal characteristics of hollow polyester fibers were compared with solid polyester fibers in order to study their processing behavior and performance characteristics. The effects of different processing and structural properties including fiber diameter, bulk density of layer, and surface pressure on layers of needle-punched nonwoven fabrics with hollow fibers on thermal resistance properties were also investigated. The results show that hollow fibers have a higher thermal resistance in comparison with solid ones. This is a consequence of air trapping inside the fibers, higher bulkiness, and higher surface area of hollow fibers. Furthermore, thermal resistance of microfibers is better than those of macrofibers in both hollow and solid fibers. The thermal resistance of nonwoven subjected to this study, have an inverted-U-shaped pattern versus the bulk density of the fabric. The results also showed that thermal resistance of needle-punched nonwoven fabrics can be affected by the range of heater temperature during the test, however considerably can be affected by fabric thickness as a main structural property of nonwoven fabrics.     

Handle,fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn woven stretch fabrics

Hybrid yarn was produced by twisting silk with nylon covered lycra yarn. Silk of 20 D in warp and hybrid yarn in weft was woven to develop lustrous woven stretch fabrics for sari blouse. Silk and hybrid yarn fabrics were produced in three different weaves namely plain, crepe and sateen. An in-depth study was carried out to understand the effect of weave on thermal comfort; low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties. Nine blouses (3 samples× 3 figures) were constructed from three different woven stretch materials for fit assessment and objective pressure comfort test. The effect of fabric weave, low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties on fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabrics were analyzed. Sateen weave silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabric shows higher total hand value, stretch properties and better thermal comfort properties. Sateen and crepe weave stretch fabrics provided good fit. Sateen weave fabric exerted lower clothing pressure value in the range of 3-12 mmHg at all body locations in standing position and in different postures.     

Antistatic effect of atmospheric pressure glow discharge cold plasma treatment on textile substrates

Hydrophobic synthetic textile substrates, nylon and polyester fabrics, were continuously treated in an atmospheric-pressure-glow-discharge-cold-plasma reactor using He and air. The samples were evaluated for antistatic properties by measuring the static charge build-up and half charge decay time. The 60 sec air-plasma treated nylon fabric produced only 1.53 kV of charge and showed a significantly smaller half decay time of 0.63 sec compared to static voltage of 2.76 kV and a half decay time of 8.9 sec in the untreated nylon fabric. In comparison, the He plasma treated nylon fabrics showed relatively less improvement by producing static charge built-up of 2.12 kV and half charge decay time of 1.1 sec. Similar improvements were obtained for polyester (PET) fabrics as well. The treated samples showed good antistatic properties even after five laundry wash cycles. The surface characteristics of the samples were investigated using SEM, AFM, and ATR-FTIR. The results revealed that the improvement on antistatic properties are attributable to increase in the surface energy of the fabrics due to the formation of hydrophilic groups and increase in the surface area due to the formation of nano-sized horizontal and vertical channels on the fibre surface. The study suggests that plasma treatment may be used for imparting effective antistatic finish on otherwise hydrophobic substrates.     

Reflectance prediction of colored polyester fabrics by a novel formula

This paper focuses on the reflectance prediction of colored (unicolored) fabrics considering relationship between fractional reflectance values and cover factors of fabrics woven from polyester yarns. A novel equation for the calculation of relation between fractional reflectance and cover factor was proposed and usage of the equation was assessed by reflectance measurements. 48 dyed polyester fabrics having different constructional parameters were used and fabrics differed from each other by their cover factors. Warp yarn type and count, warp density and warp yarn twist were the same but weft yarn count, weft yarn fiber count and weft density were different for the fabrics in experimental sub-groups. The reflectance measurements were conducted on the dyed fabric samples as well as on the individual yarn systems (warp and weft) of the same fabrics. The proposed equation was tested according to different fabric constructional parameters and reasonable results with the experimental data were obtained. The possibilities of general use of derived mathematical relations between theoretical and measured reflectance values were researched. The relation obtained was used to explain the effects of different constructional parameters on reflectance behavior of fabric surfaces.     

苎麻／涤Sirofil织物性能及品质研究

将Sirofil纺纱方法应用于苎麻/涤纶混纺,开发了苎麻/涤纶Sirofil织物。基于FAST、KES客观评价系统以及织物的基本物理指标的测试结果,对设计的织物的性能和风格进行了讨论和评价。     

Pull-out properties of polyester woven fabrics: Effects of softening agent and interlacement on single and multiple yarn pull-out forces and analysis by statistical model

The aim of this study was to understand the effects of softening treatment on pull-out properties of plain, ribs and satin fabrics. Polyester woven fabrics were used to conduct the pull-out tests. Data generated from these tests included pullout force, crimp extension and fabric displacement. A developed yarn pull-out fixture was used to perform single and multiple pull-out tests on treated and untreated polyester fabrics. Yarn pull-out forces depend on fabric treatments, fabric density, fabric weave, and the number of pulled ends in the fabric. The results of regression model showed that multiple and single yarn pull-out forces of treated fabrics were lower than those of untreated fabrics. The multiple yarn pull-out force was higher than that of the single yarn pull-out force, and that dense fabric had a high pull-out force. Treated and untreated plain fabrics had high single and multiple pull-out forces compared to those of treated and untreated ribs and satin fabrics. Yarn crimp extension depends on directional crimp ratios in the fabric and the number of pulled yarn ends. High directional crimp ratio fabric showed high directional yarn crimp extension. Fabric displacement depends on the number of pulled yarn ends and also fabric treatments. Fabric displacement in multiple pull-out tests showed high fabric displacement compared to that of single pull-out tests. On the other hand, the regression model could be used in this study as a viable and reliable tool.     

黄麻／棉织物服用性能探讨

本文通过试验测定了黄麻／棉织物的服用性能，并与苎麻／棉，涤／棉，纯棉等织物的服用性能进行比较，结论表明黄麻／棉织物作为服用织物是可行的。     

Seam pucker and formability of the worsted fabrics

The purpose of this study is to objectively evaluate the seam pucker as a fabric formability and to analyze the effects of the fabric structural and sewing parameters to the seam pucker properties of the worsted and wool/polyester blend fabrics. The seam pucker of the worsted and wool/polyester blend fabrics according to the different types of fibre composition were surveyed by measuring fabric mechanical property using KES-FB and FAST systems and also seam puckering test was conducted by objective and subjective methods. In addition, the effects of fabric structural and sewing parameters to the seam pucker were investigated using statistical analysis. It was revealed that the effects of fabric structural parameters to the seam pucker were dominant than those of sewing machine conditions. It was shown that low pressor foot pressure and shuttle tension make good seam pucker, and high sewing speed and shuttle tension make bad seam pucker. And it was also shown that the precision on estimating of the seam pucker by KES-FB system was much higher than that of FAST system. And seam pucker values between objective and subjective methods showed good correlation.