The effect of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness of polyester fabrics

The effects of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness values of textured polyester woven fabrics with different constructional parameters were investigated. The warp yarn properties (type, count and warp density) were kept constant while the effect of variation in weft yarn density and weave pattern were studied. Measurements were conducted on pre-treated white fabric samples and the results assessed in relation to their constructional properties. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness values of polyester fabrics affected by fabric balance and fabric cover and the effects were related to fabric thickness, yarn densities, yarn crimp, positioning of yarns in fabric structure. A change in weave pattern from sateen to plain increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased the surface roughness. Similarly, an increase in weft density increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased surface roughness. In order to produce fabrics with smooth surface properties yarn density should be increased, yarn float lengths decreased, cover of fabrics increased and fabric balance improved.     

Assessing the relationship among fabric constructional parameters, fractional reflectances and cover factors of polyester fabrics by experimental and mathematical methods

This paper focuses on the assessment of the relation among constructional properties, fractional reflectances and cover factors of fabrics woven from polyester yarns. A novel equation for the calculation of the relation between fractional reflectance and fabric cover factor was proposed and the usage of the equation was assessed by reflectance measurements. 48 polyester fabrics having different constructional parameters were used and the fabrics differed from each other by their cover factors. The warp yarn type and count, warp density and warp yarn twist were the same but weft yarn count, weft yarn fiber count and weft density were different for the fabrics in the experimental sub-groups. The reflectance measurements were conducted on the pretreated but undyed fabric samples as well as on the individual yarn systems of the same fabrics. Fabrics with the same cover factors exhibited different fractional reflectances. Reflectances were found to be dependent on the cover factor as well as on yarn fiber fineness, yarn count, yarn density and fabric weave. The changes in crimp of the yarns according to different construction parameters also governed the changes in fractional reflectances of fabric surfaces. The proposed equation was tested according to different fabric construction parameters and it was concluded that fiber fineness and weave pattern were among the most important parameters which govern the total light reflectances from the fabric surfaces, although they are not incorporated in the calculation of the fabric cover factors. The proposed equation was used to explain the effects of these components on the reflectance behavior of the fabric surfaces and on fabric cover.     

Assessment of color strength and color difference values of polyester fabrics containing continuous weft yarns after abrasion

This paper assesses the color difference and color strength values (K/S) obtained for eight disperse-dyed polyester fabric samples with different fabric construction parameters (weft yarn type, weft yarn count, weft density and fabric weave) after four sets of abrasion cycles. Warp yarn type and count, warp density, and warp yarn twist are the same for all fabrics. Fabric samples are dyed in a commercial red disperse dye (C.I. Disperse Red 74:1) and four different abrasion cycles (2500, 5000, 7500, 10000) are used. TheK/S values of the abraided fabrics and color difference values between the control fabric (dyed but not abraided) and abraded fabrics are calculated. The main differences in theK/S and color difference values are observed between 0–2500 abrasion cycles. The high tenacity of the polyester fibers and continuous polyester yarns causes some fuzz but no pilling formation on the fabric surface that lead to increasedK/S values and color differences. Fiber dullness, yarn thickness, yarn density and fabric weave are concluded to have different effects on the appearance after abrasion.     

Manufacture technique and electrical properties evaluation of bamboo charcoal polyester/stainless steel complex yarn and knitted fabrics

There are derivative problems of electromagnetic wave radiation accompanying the advances of science and technology nowadays and secure protections are also emphasized gradually. To shield these electromagnetic wave radition jeopardizing people’s health, in this study, stainless steel wires were the core yarn and bamboo charcoal polyester textured yarns were the wrapped yarn. The bamboo charcoal polyester/stainless steel (BC/SS) complex yarns were manufactured using a rotor twister machine. The BC/SS complex knitted fabrics were woven with the complex yarns employing a circular knitting machine. Three manufacture parameters were the wrapped amount of the complex yarn (2 to 6 turns/cm), the lamination amount of the knitted fabrics (1 to 6 layers) and lamination angles of the knitted fabrics (0°/0°/0°/0°/0°/0°, 0°/45°/90°/−45°/0°/45°, and 0°/90°/0°/90°/0°/90°). The knitted fabric exhibited the lowest surface resistance 32.3 Ω/sq. Optimum electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMSE) was 45 dB when the knitted fabrics were with 0°/45°/90°/−45°/0°/45° laminating in 0.51 GHz.     

The Effects of Fabric and Conductive Wire Properties on Electromagnetic Shielding Effectiveness and Surface Resistivity of Interlock Knitted Fabrics

Our aim in this study was to investigate the effects of course density, yarn linear density and thickness and type of conductive wire on electromagnetic shielding effectiveness. Metal/cotton conductive composite yarns were produced by the core-spun technique on the ring spinning machine, involving stainless steel, copper and silver coated copper wires with 40 μm, 50 μm, 60 μm thicknesses and Ne10/1 and Ne20/1 count yarns. The interlock fabrics were knitted on a 7G flat knitting machine with the three different machine settings. The EMSE and the surface resistivity of knitted fabrics were measured by the co-axial transmission line method according to the ASTM-D4935-10 standard in the frequency range from 15 to 3000 MHz and by the ASTM D257-07 standard, respectively. It was observed that all fabrics shielded around 95 % of electromagnetic waves at low frequencies, 80 % at medium frequencies and 70 % at high frequencies. Increasing the course density and thickness of conductive wire in interlock knitted fabrics increased the EMSE correspondingly. The knitted fabrics that had been produced with high yarn count showed greater EMSE because there was less isolation. The effect of the metal wire type was highly significant between 15 and 600 MHz.     

Handle,fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn woven stretch fabrics

Hybrid yarn was produced by twisting silk with nylon covered lycra yarn. Silk of 20 D in warp and hybrid yarn in weft was woven to develop lustrous woven stretch fabrics for sari blouse. Silk and hybrid yarn fabrics were produced in three different weaves namely plain, crepe and sateen. An in-depth study was carried out to understand the effect of weave on thermal comfort; low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties. Nine blouses (3 samples× 3 figures) were constructed from three different woven stretch materials for fit assessment and objective pressure comfort test. The effect of fabric weave, low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties on fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabrics were analyzed. Sateen weave silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabric shows higher total hand value, stretch properties and better thermal comfort properties. Sateen and crepe weave stretch fabrics provided good fit. Sateen weave fabric exerted lower clothing pressure value in the range of 3-12 mmHg at all body locations in standing position and in different postures.     

Electromagnetic shielding characteristics of woven fabrics made of hybrid yarns containing metal wire

In this study, electromagnetic shielding characteristics of woven fabrics made of hybrid yarns are investigated. For this purpose, initially the hybrid yarns containing stainless steel wire are produced with hollow spindle covering technique, and then eight different fabric samples are produced using these hybrid yarns. Electromagnetic shielding values of fabric samples are determined by a test set up based on enclosure measurement technique. Measurements are made in the frequency range of 30 MHz-9.93 GHz. Test results show that woven fabric samples investigated in this study have 25–65 dB electromagnetic shielding effectiveness for incident frequency. It was also shown that the direction, density and settlement type of conductive hybrid yarn in fabric structure are important parameters affecting electromagnetic shielding characteristics of woven fabrics.     

Reflectance prediction of colored polyester fabrics by a novel formula

This paper focuses on the reflectance prediction of colored (unicolored) fabrics considering relationship between fractional reflectance values and cover factors of fabrics woven from polyester yarns. A novel equation for the calculation of relation between fractional reflectance and cover factor was proposed and usage of the equation was assessed by reflectance measurements. 48 dyed polyester fabrics having different constructional parameters were used and fabrics differed from each other by their cover factors. Warp yarn type and count, warp density and warp yarn twist were the same but weft yarn count, weft yarn fiber count and weft density were different for the fabrics in experimental sub-groups. The reflectance measurements were conducted on the dyed fabric samples as well as on the individual yarn systems (warp and weft) of the same fabrics. The proposed equation was tested according to different fabric constructional parameters and reasonable results with the experimental data were obtained. The possibilities of general use of derived mathematical relations between theoretical and measured reflectance values were researched. The relation obtained was used to explain the effects of different constructional parameters on reflectance behavior of fabric surfaces.     

Evaluation of bamboo charcoal/stainless steel/TPU composite woven fabrics

Composite woven fabric satisfies what people require. Bamboo charcoal (BC) has been identified as a multifunctional material that has far-infrared ray, anions, deodorization and etc. BC fibers and yarns were made of bamboo charcoal powders and have further become a pervasive materials used in textile industry. In this study, cotton yarns, stainless steel/cotton (SS/C) complex yarn, bamboo charcoal/cotton (BC/C) complex yarns were woven into the plain, twill and Dobby composite woven fabrics. The warp yarn was composed of cotton yarns, and the weft yarn was made up of BC/C and SS/C complex yarns with a picking ratio of 1:1 and 3:1. Thermoplastic polyurethanes (TPU) film was then attached to the composite woven fabrics, forming the BC/SS/TPU composite woven fabrics. Tests of electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMSE), far-infrared emissivity, anions, water resistance, and water vapor permeability measured the single-layer, two-layer and four-layer composite woven fabrics, obtaining a far-infrared emissivity of 0.95 by 39.8 counts per minute, an anion count of 149 amount/cc, an EMSE of −11.87 dB under frequency of 900 MHz, a surface resistivity of 8×10⁻⁶ Ω/square, a water resistance of −8219 mmH₂O, and water vapor permeability of 989 g/m²·h and 319 g/m²·24 h in accordance with JIS L 1099 A1 and ASTM E96 BW.     

Predicting bending rigidity of woven fabrics using artificial neural networks

This paper reports an investigation on the predictability of bending property of woven fabrics from their constructional parameters using artificial neural network (ANN) approach. Number of cotton grey fabrics made of plain and satin weave designs were desized, scoured, and relaxed. The fabrics were then conditioned and tested for bending properties. Thread density in fabric, yarn linear density, twist in yarn, and weave design were accounted as input parameters for the model whereas bending rigidity in warp and weft directions of fabric formed the outputs. Gradient descent with momentum and an adaptive learning rate back-propagation was employed as learning algorithm to train the network. A sensitivity analysis was carried out to study the robustness of the model.     

Evaluation of the structural properties of plain fabrics woven from various fibers using Peirce’s model

Peirce’s fabric model has been widely used to predict the structural behavior of various plain woven fabrics. The structure of plain woven fabric can be defined in terms of the warp yarn number, weft yarn number, warp fabric density, weft fabric density, warp crimp, and weft crimp. The warp and weft yarn diameters are calculated from the warp and weft yarn numbers, and the effective coefficient of the yarn diameter is defined by using this model. We have investigated structural properties, such as the effective coefficient of the yarn diameter, yarn crimp, and fabric thickness for two different fabrics in which the constituent yarns are assumed to be either incompressible or compressible. This model is also applied to various plain fabrics woven from cotton, rayon, wool, linen, nylon, acetate, polyester, and silk yarns.     

Prediction of the fabric’s crease recovery property with Taguchi design of experiment

The creasing characteristic of fabrics is affected by many factors like yarn twist, fabric density, fabric constructions, fabric thickness apart from the fiber type. In the first part of this study, the effect of yarn fineness, yarn twist, fabric tightness and weave construction factors on crease recovery was studied. In the second part of the study, in order to improve the creasing recovery of the fabrics, shape memory alloy (SMA) wires were used and the effect of shape memory alloy (SMA) wire on the crease recovery of cotton fabrics produced with different types of weave constructions were determined. Due to the high cost of SMA wire and the weaving operation adversity the two experimental plans were designed according to Taguchi design of experiment (TDOE). From the analysis of the first part, it was found that the yarn linear density had the greatest effect on fabric crease recovery compare to others. Twist coefficient was the second, weft density was third and the weave construction had the least significant effect on the crease recovery. The fabrics produced with coarser and low twisted yarns with high tightness and longer floats in the weave construction have higher crease recovery property. In the second part of the study, the application of the SMA wire significantly increased the crease recovery angle of the fabrics. The thickness of the SMA wire is very important and the effect depends on the wire thickness. The increase of the SMA wire thickness increases the crease recovery significantly. However it must be appropriate with the yarn and fabric properties. The distance between the SMA wire distances was expected to increase the crease recovery however the effect was found not significant. The fabrics produced with coarser yarns with longer floats in the weave construction have higher crease recovery property. However, statistically the effects of these parameters were found not significant due to the dominant effect of the wire thickness.     

Simulation of the weave structural design of synthetic woven fabrics

This study surveys the basic procedure of data base system of the fabric structural design which can be linked with existing pattern design and garment design CAD systems. For this purpose, the theoretical and empirical equations related to the fabric structural design are analyzed and discussed with various fabric specimens. The fabric structural parameters such as weave density coefficient, cover factor and yarn density coefficient of various kinds of fabrics are calculated using the empirical equations. These calculated fabric structural parameters of many kinds of polyester and nylon fabrics are compared and discussed with weave pattern, and materials such as polyester and nylon. Furthermore the difference between fabric structural parameters calculated by empirical equations are analyzed with polyester and nylon fabrics as a basic study for data base system of the fabric structural design. Finally, the weave density coefficients of polyester and nylon fabrics were analysed and discussed with shrinkages of dyeing and finishing processes, and also surveyed according to the weaving company and weave structural parameters such as weave pattern and denier.     

New production method for a plain weave figured fabric

A new production method for figured fabric has been developed. The figured fabric generated in this study is a plain weave piled fabric and it shows the same figure on both sides unlike those fabrics woven on dobby or jacquard looms. It is woven by a specialty yarn called the chenille yarn which is obtained by separating each warp of a base fabric woven in leno structure. The base fabric is woven by inserting different colored weft each time in a certain sequence arranged according to the target figure image. A CAD software and a computerized controller have been developed to control all the motions of a conventional rapier loom and to handle the numerous weft insertion schedule efficiently.     

Effect of weaving process on tensile characterization of single and multiple ends of air-entangled textured polyester yarns

The tensile properties of air-entangled textured polyester single and multiple yarn ends before and after weaving were analyzed. The effects of weaving process considering fabric unit cell interlacement and number of yarn ends were evaluated by regression model. For this purpose, plain, ribs and satin woven fabrics were produced. The yarns were raveled from fabrics, and the tensile tests were applied to these yarns. The developed regression model showed that the number of interlacement and crimp ratio on the warp and weft yarns influence their tensile strength. Tensile strength of raveled yarns decreased compared to that of the bobbin yarn due to the effect of weaving process. This property degradation on the ravel yarns considered process degradation. Generally, when the number of warp and weft yarn ends increases, the warp and weft yarn tensile strengths for each fabric type decrease, whereas the warp and weft yarn tensile elongations slightly increase. The results from regression model were compared with the measured values. This study confirmed that the method in the study can be a viable and reliable tool. The research finding could be useful those who work on preform fabrication.     

Influence of the deformation mode on seam slippage in woven fabrics

In the present study the influence of the deformation mode, of the specimen elongation deformation, of the fabrics?? weave type, of fabrics?? direction and of the position of seam allowances in respect to the stitching line on the seam slippage in the raw plain, twill and combined-twill weave fabrics was investigated. Fabrics were woven with the warp yarn of 20×2 tex 70 % cotton and 30 % PES blended 2-ply spun yarn and the weft yarn of 18 tex 100 % PES folded multifilament yarn using jacquard weaving machine ??Lindaucer DORNER GmbH??. Seam slippage of the investigated woven fabrics was determined using the new simple and compact technical device suitable to test fabrics for seam slippage property within five different deformation modes: an uniaxial tension of seams with opened seam allowances on the surface of metal table; an uniaxial tension of seams with bent to one side allowances in respect to stitching line on the surface of the metal table; an unrestricted uniaxial tension of seams; a bagging of seams with bent to one side allowances in respect to the stitching line using the plastic hollow cylinder; a bagging of seams with opened seam allowances using the plastic hollow cylinder. The results of the research had proved that seam slippage of the investigated woven fabrics was dependent on the deformation mode, on the elongation of sewn specimens, on the location of allowances in respect to the stitching line, on the fabric weave type as well as on the woven fabric direction.     

Analysis and tensile characterization of air-entangled textured polyester woven fabrics depending on interlacement and yarn sets

The aim of this study was to understand the failure mechanism of two dimensional dry fabric structure considering yarn sets and interlacements. For this purpose, data generated on air-entangled textured polyester woven fabric under the simple tensile load and analyzed by developed regression model. The regression model showed that warp and weft directional tensile strengths of satin fabric were higher than those of plain and rib fabrics in unravel sample. This might be related to the number of interlacements of the fabrics. There was not a considerable difference between warp directional tensile strength of ravel and unravel satin fabrics, whereas weft directional tensile strength of ravel satin fabric decreased rapidly with respect to its unravel form. The satin fabric showed the highest warp directional tensile strength among the others. The lowest weft directional tensile strength was received from ribs fabric. In semi-ravel sample, all fabrics showed low warp and weft directional tensile strength values except in plain fabric. Warp directional tensile elongation of plain fabric was the highest in unravel sample. Satin fabric showed the highest warp directional tensile elongation in the ravel sample. Warp directional tensile elongations of all the fabrics in the semi-ravel sample became low. Weft directional tensile elongation of satin fabric was the highest in unravel sample. In addition, satin and plain fabrics showed the highest weft directional tensile elongations in the ravel sample. Weft directional tensile elongations of all the fabrics in the semi-ravel sample became low except in ribs fabric.     

Pull-out properties of polyester woven fabrics: Effects of softening agent and interlacement on single and multiple yarn pull-out forces and analysis by statistical model

The aim of this study was to understand the effects of softening treatment on pull-out properties of plain, ribs and satin fabrics. Polyester woven fabrics were used to conduct the pull-out tests. Data generated from these tests included pullout force, crimp extension and fabric displacement. A developed yarn pull-out fixture was used to perform single and multiple pull-out tests on treated and untreated polyester fabrics. Yarn pull-out forces depend on fabric treatments, fabric density, fabric weave, and the number of pulled ends in the fabric. The results of regression model showed that multiple and single yarn pull-out forces of treated fabrics were lower than those of untreated fabrics. The multiple yarn pull-out force was higher than that of the single yarn pull-out force, and that dense fabric had a high pull-out force. Treated and untreated plain fabrics had high single and multiple pull-out forces compared to those of treated and untreated ribs and satin fabrics. Yarn crimp extension depends on directional crimp ratios in the fabric and the number of pulled yarn ends. High directional crimp ratio fabric showed high directional yarn crimp extension. Fabric displacement depends on the number of pulled yarn ends and also fabric treatments. Fabric displacement in multiple pull-out tests showed high fabric displacement compared to that of single pull-out tests. On the other hand, the regression model could be used in this study as a viable and reliable tool.     

Comfort and handle related properties of P/V blended air-jet textured yarn fabrics

The effect of blend percentage on comfort and handle related properties of fabrics made from polyester/viscose blended air-jet textured yarn weft were studied and the results were compared with fabrics made from polyester/viscose ring-spun yarn wefts of similar linear densities. It is observed that with increase in polyester content in the blend, the air permeability and water vapour permeability reduces whereas thermal resistance, transverse wicking and shear rigidity increases both in ring-spun yarn and textured yarn fabrics and bending rigidity increases in textured yarn fabrics. Textured yarn fabrics exhibit lower air permeability and extensibility, higher thermal resistance, relative water vapour permeability, transverse wicking values and bending rigidity as compared to the ring-spun yarn fabrics.