Effects of bending properties and drapability on the hand and appearance of wool-blended Fabrics: Comparison of real clothing with online and 3D virtual garments

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of bending properties and drapability on the hand and appearance of wool-blended fabrics for comparison of real clothing with online and 3D virtual garments. Objective evaluations were performed by measuring mechanical properties of fabrics, while subjective evaluations were performed by subjects evaluating sensory images of fabrics; real clothing evaluations were performed offline and online, and 3D virtual garments were evaluated. Bending properties and drape coefficients of fabrics were affected by wool blending ratio, and fabrics with high wool blending ratio showed low stiffness, warm-cool, weight, and high smoothness, drapability image. In the real clothing evaluation, stiffness image showed many differences with online evaluation with respect to wool blending ratio. Objective bending properties and drape coefficients showed no correlation with subjective sensory images offline. For the online results, objective mechanical properties had good correlations with all sensory images except smoothness. Stiffness and warm-cool online scores were higher than the offline ones and the offline drapability was higher than the online one for 100 % wool fabrics. Thus, clothing was generally evaluated online as more hard and moist than real clothing. For the virtual garment evaluation, sensory images had no difference according to wool blending ratio compared with real clothing. Many differences in subjective sensory images between real clothing and virtual garments were observed, except for smoothness and weight images. The results showed that it is difficult to exactly predict the hand and appearance of clothing according to fabric properties using 3D virtual garment system.     

Fast garment drape simulation using geometrically constrained particle system

A simulation system for versatile garment drape has been developed. Using this system, the shape of a garment can be simulated in consideration of fabric physical properties as well as the interaction between fabrics and other objects. Each fabric piece in a garment is modeled using a geometrically constrained particle system and its behavior is calculated from an implicit numerical integration algorithm in a relatively short time. The system consists of three modules including a preprocessor for the preparation of fabric patterns and external objects, a postprocessor for the results of three-dimensional visualization, and a drape simulation engine. It can be used for the design process of textile goods, garments, furniture, or upholsteries.     

Garment pattern nesting using image analysis and three-dimensional simulation

A software system has been developed that designs garments made of figured fabrics and arranges the flat patterns on the fabric automatically. A series of image analysis techniques were used to find the repeat unit images of figured fabrics. Three-dimensional garment drape simulation was used to design garments using those repeat unit images as texture maps. Finally, a pattern nesting system was developed to arrange numerous flat garment patterns quickly keeping the continuity of the figures on them. This method could contribute to the increase of the reliability as well as the reduction of production cost by eliminating the unnecessary trial-and-error based processes.     

Investigating seamed woven fabric drape using experimental and virtual approaches

The aim of this study was to investigate the drape properties of seamed woven fabric using experimental and virtual approaches. Firstly, the influence of different seams on the fabric drape parameters was analyzed based on bending and draping experiments. Then, a preliminary drape simulation method for seamed fabric was presented using shell finite elements. The models with seams were simplified and separated into shell fabric partitions and seam partitions. The projection images of all models were extracted for calculating the drape coefficient and average radius. Through contrasting of drape profiles and correlate analysis of drape parameters, it shows that the drape properties between simulating and testing are very similar and correlated. Furthermore, their regression formulas of drape coefficient and average radius were given by regression analysis. The work has some helps for further study on evaluating and simulating the garment aesthetic performance in considering of seam’s mechanical properties.     

A comparative study of cotton knitted fabrics and garments produced by the modified low twist and conventional ring yarns

Spirality is one of the major potential problems in knitted fabrics and garments. It affects the aesthetics and physical properties of the garment produced, such as the seam displacement, shape retention, pattern distortion and sewing difficulties. In this paper, a comparative study has been carried out to evaluate the physical performance of 100 % cotton knitted fabrics and garments produced by the modified low twist and conventional ring yarns through the actual wearing and washing trials. Experimental results showed that the properties of side seam displacement, fabric spirality, dimensional stability and skewness change of the T-shirts and sweaters made by the modified single yarns are comparable to those of garments made from the control plied yarns but much improved when compared to those from the control single yarns. In addition, the pilling resistance and bursting strength of the knitted fabrics made by the modified single yarns can still maintain a reasonably high level at a low yarn twist.     

Development of a platform for realistic garment drape simulation

An integrated platform for garment drape simulation system has been developed. In this system, garment patterns from conventional two-dimensional CAD systems can be assembled into a three-dimensional garment on a parametrically resizable realistic human body model. A fast and robust particle-based physical calculation engine has been developed for garment shape generation. Then a series of geometric and graphical techniques were applied to create realistic impressions on simulated garments. This system can be used as the rapid prototyping tool for garments in the future quick-response system.     

Effects of loom characteristics on the physical properties of PET fabrics for emotional clothing

The fabric defects complained by garment manufacturers are stop marks, streaky phenomena on the warp direction, thickness variation and color differences between edges on the right and left sides of the fabrics, which are partly due to the tension variation of warp and weft directions. It is well known that these defects are related to the difference of fabric mechanical property according to the loom characteristics and fabric position such as center and both edges parts of the fabric, which affect garment formability and wearing performance of garment. This research is focusing about which factor is dominant for the difference of fabric mechanical properties which affects garment formability and wearing performance between loom characteristic factor and fabric position factor such as center and both edges of the fabric, which is affected by warp and weft tensions. For this purpose, two kinds of looms were selected, and warp and weft tensions during weaving were measured and the mechanical properties of the fabrics woven by two kinds of looms such as tensile, bending, shear, compression and surface properties were also measured according to the positions such as center and both edge parts of the fabric. These fabric mechanical properties were examined with warp and weft tensions according to the looms and were also analyzed according to the positions of the fabric woven by two kinds of looms. The warp tension on the vicinity of center parts of the looms was much higher than those on the vicinity of both edges of looms. It revealed that the warp tension difference makes differences of fabric mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shear and surface properties except compressional property. And the differences of these mechanical properties according to the fabric positions and looms seem to make homogeneity of the fabric hand and tailorability of garment deteriorating.     

A novel method based on loop shape for simulating knitted fabric using mass spring model

Fabric simulation is result of combining various methods that have been dramatically evolved during the decade. However, there still exist some limitations. One of the limitations in fabric simulation is lack of using fabric properties such as material, weave structure, density and so on in mass spring modeling. In knitted fabrics, this issue is more important due to their different fabric structures. In this paper, a new mesh based on loop shape for simulating 1×1 rib fabric is proposed which is called Loop mesh. By using the Loop and common meshes, 3D model of drape behavior in 18 types of knitted fabric are simulated. Results of simulation are compared with 3D shape of actual drape behavior in fabric samples which are achieved by depth camera. Results show that the Loop mesh is able to predict the drape behavior of knitted fabric with error value of 5 percent as compared with the real result. It can be found that the Loop mesh produced a closest drape shape to the actual fabric drape than other mesh models.     

Application of electrospun polyurethane web to breathable water-proof fabrics

Electrospun web may possibly be widely applied to protective garments or specialty textiles due to its high level of protection as well as comfort. Of particular interest in this study is to develop waterproof-breathable fabric by applying electrospun web of polyurethane directly onto the substrate fabric. The optimal electrospinning condition was examined with regards to the concentration, applied voltage and tip-to-collector distance. Solvent-electospinning of polyurethane was performed at the optimum condition, using N,N-dimethylacetamide as solvent. The thickness of 0.02 mm of electrospun web was applied onto the polyester/nylon blended fabric. For comparison, the polyester/nylon fabrics were coated with 0.02 mm thickness of polyurethane resin membranes adopting four different conditions. The electrospun PU web/fabric was compared to resin coated fabrics in terms of water-proof and breathable properties. The electrospun web applied fabric showed higher air permeability, vapor transmission, and thermal insulation properties than resin coated fabrics, which can be translated as greater comfort sensation of electrospun applied fabrics. However, water resistance value of electrospun web applied fabric did not reach that of resin coated fabrics.     

Determination of fabric physical properties for the simulation of Cusick drapemeter

A fabric drape shape database has been prepared to find the optimum combination of fabric physical properties for simulating the appearance of an actual fabric. First, an objective and quantitative evaluation method for the traditional Cusick drape tester has been devised. Then a virtual drape tester has been developed using an implicit integration based drape simulation engine to generate a series of virtually draped fabric with various physical properties. Finally, a search algorithm has been developed to find the optimum property combination for target fabric by comparing the simulated results with the Cusick drape tester result of that fabric.     

A new experimental study of influence of fabric permeability, clothing sizes, openings and wind on regional ventilation rates

In this study, a local ventilation rates (VR) measuring system based on stead-state method was developed. This system can measure the local VR of the right arm, the left arm, the chest and the back locations of the upper body garment simultaneously. The whole clothing VR can also be computed. To study the influence of fabric permeability, clothing sizes, hem opening, and wind on local VR of the right arm, the chest and the back of the working garments, 9 jackets with different sizes and fabric permeability (permeable, semi-permeable and impermeable) were made. The results showed that the local VR for each garment location were significantly different. The chest had the largest local VR. Clothing ventilation rates were not liner with garment sizes. Closing garment bottom decreased more air exchange for chest and back comparatively. Wind increased both local and whole VR significantly. But the impacts were different according to different locations.     

Handle,fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn woven stretch fabrics

Hybrid yarn was produced by twisting silk with nylon covered lycra yarn. Silk of 20 D in warp and hybrid yarn in weft was woven to develop lustrous woven stretch fabrics for sari blouse. Silk and hybrid yarn fabrics were produced in three different weaves namely plain, crepe and sateen. An in-depth study was carried out to understand the effect of weave on thermal comfort; low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties. Nine blouses (3 samples× 3 figures) were constructed from three different woven stretch materials for fit assessment and objective pressure comfort test. The effect of fabric weave, low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties on fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabrics were analyzed. Sateen weave silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabric shows higher total hand value, stretch properties and better thermal comfort properties. Sateen and crepe weave stretch fabrics provided good fit. Sateen weave fabric exerted lower clothing pressure value in the range of 3-12 mmHg at all body locations in standing position and in different postures.     

Simulation of the weave structural design of synthetic woven fabrics

This study surveys the basic procedure of data base system of the fabric structural design which can be linked with existing pattern design and garment design CAD systems. For this purpose, the theoretical and empirical equations related to the fabric structural design are analyzed and discussed with various fabric specimens. The fabric structural parameters such as weave density coefficient, cover factor and yarn density coefficient of various kinds of fabrics are calculated using the empirical equations. These calculated fabric structural parameters of many kinds of polyester and nylon fabrics are compared and discussed with weave pattern, and materials such as polyester and nylon. Furthermore the difference between fabric structural parameters calculated by empirical equations are analyzed with polyester and nylon fabrics as a basic study for data base system of the fabric structural design. Finally, the weave density coefficients of polyester and nylon fabrics were analysed and discussed with shrinkages of dyeing and finishing processes, and also surveyed according to the weaving company and weave structural parameters such as weave pattern and denier.     

Shadow Moiré aided 3-D reconstruction of fabric drape

The existing standard test method assesses draped fabrics two-dimensionally. In this study, a novel method is introduced to analyze and quantify fabric drapes in 3-D by using shadow moiré method. Six different woven fabrics with dissimilar drape behaviors have been analyzed. A drape index has been mathematically derived from the moiré patterns employing the shadow moiré topography technique. The results have been compared with the standard drape coefficient. The 3-D profile of fabrics has been graphically formed and displayed applying the moiré fringes?? data.     

Formability analysis of worsted woven fabrics considering fabric direction

Over years predicting fabric behaviour during garment manufacturing process was considered by researchers in order to reduce manufacturing problems and achieve high quality products. Fabric formability which is affected by bending and tensile behaviour through the application of small loads is a property which can predict fabric performance precisely. However, this property changes regarding fabric direction and is not constant. In this study, fabric formability is examined for worsted woven fabrics in a more detailed way by evaluating this property in various fabric directions. It was concluded that fabric formability could be expressed as a sinusoidal function of sample orientation towards warp direction. Moreover, studying several weave structures with different weft densities reveals that the less the firmness of fabric construction the more the value of fabric formability which indicates the better adaption of fabric to the exerted deformation.     

Flexural stiffness of core spun cotton/spandex weft knitted structures under relaxation and machine washing treatments

In this research work, behavior of flexural stiffness of core spun cotton spandex single jersey, 1x1 rib and interlock fabrics was studied under relaxation and machine washing treatments. Results are compared with similar fabrics made from 100 % cotton. Fabric weight density increased with the progression of treatments and it is proportionate to the fabric tightness factor (stitch length^?1). Even though both types of fabrics had same machine set stitch lengths, cotton/spandex fabrics have shown the higher fabric weight densities than that of 100 % cotton fabrics. Although 1x1 rib and single jersey fabrics knitted with the same machine set stitch lengths, rib fabrics have given higher fabric weight densities than single jersey fabrics. Among the three knitted structures, interlock fabrics with higher machine set stitch lengths gave the higher fabric weights. Fabric stiffness and flexural rigidity have given higher values under the progression of treatments and it was found that higher values of stiffness have given by cotton/spandex knitted fabrics compared to their cotton fabrics. Fabric stiffness and flexural rigidity in wale direction were higher than that in course direction, but it is only observed in single jersey fabrics. However, 1x1 rib and interlock fabrics have shown an opposite behavior. It was also observed a positive correlation between TF (i.e.: stitch length^?1) and bending length/flexural rigidity in both fabric types. Lower flexural rigidities reported with single jersey structures and highest values gave with interlock structures of cotton/spandex and cotton fabrics.     

Organic solvent absorption characteristics of split-type microfiber fabrics

Split-type nylon/polyester microfiber and polyester microfiber fabrics possess drapeability, softness, bulkiness, and smoothness, so that they can be applied in various industrial fields. In particular, these fabrics are able to absorb various organic solvents, and can be used as clean room materials. To investigate the chemical affinity between solvents and the compositional materials of these fabrics, the contact angle of thermally pressed film fabrics was measured with different solvents. The thermally pressed nylon/polyester fabric films showed a chemical attraction to formamide. The sorption properties of the microfiber fabrics were investigated using a real time testing device, and these tests showed that the sorption behavior was more influenced by the structure of the fibrous assembly than by any chemical attraction. The effect of the fabric density, specific weight, and sample structure on the sorption capacity and rate was examined for various organic solvents. The sorption capacity was influenced by the density and the specific weight of the fibrous assembly, and knitted fabric showed a higher sorption capacity than woven fabric. However, the sorption rate was less affected in lower viscosity solvents. On applying Poiseuille’s Law, the lower viscosity solvents showed higher initial sorption rates, and more easily penetrated into the fibrous assembly.     

Effects of fabric surface energy on human thermophysiological responses during exercise and recovery

The present paper reports a study on influences of fabric surface energy of cotton and polyester garments on clothing microclimates and human thermophysiological responses during intermittent exercise and recovery. Eight healthy males wearing the garments prepared performed exercises and rest according to the following protocol: rest for 30 min, run on treadmill for total 60 min of three sessions with different intensity and duration, and then sit quietly for 30 min for recovery, all at 30 °C and relative humidity of 30 %, while the microclimate humidity (H _mc ) and temperature (T _mc ), the clothing outside surface humidity (H _co ) and temperature (T _co ), the skin temperatures and ear canal temperature (T _{ear_canal} ) were measured. The garments are made of: (a) hydrophilic and hydrophobic cotton knitted fabrics, and (b) hydrophilic and hydrophobic polyester knitted fabrics. During and after exercise, for cotton, hydrophilic garment resulted in significant lowerΔH _mc , ΔH _co , ΔT _mc during recovery, higher , lowerΔT _{ear_canal} andΔT _forehead . For polyester, hydrophilic garment resulted in significantly lowerΔH _co , ΔT _co , higher , higherΔT _forehead during E1, E2 and recovery session but lower during E3. In summary, surface energy of cotton garments had significant influences on human thermophysiological responses during exercise and recovery, and hydrophilic cotton garment was better than hydrophobic one to reduce heat stress. Surface energy of polyester garments had influences of lower significance, and hydrophilic garment appeared better than hydrophobic garment.     

苎麻／黄（红）麻织物服用性能测试分析

本文通过实验测定了苎麻/黄(红)麻混纺交织织物的服用性能，并与苎麻织物的服用性能进行比较，结论表明苎麻/黄(红)麻混纺交织织物具有良好的服用性能。     

Property Comparison of Woollen Fabrics with Fusible and Printable Interlinings

Suits produced now are high class with good quality due to advanced manufacturing techniques. Woollen fabrics and interlinings are the major materials for suit manufacture. Using woollen fabric and interlining to produce quality fabric has become an important production process. However traditional fusible interlinings are costly and involve a tedious production process, and they have some drawbacks such as strike through and bubbles. In this study, a printable interlining is proposed which can be used in place of fusible interlining. Screen-printing technique directly prints on the shell fabric and it is named printable interlining which enhances quality and reduces operational cost for garment manufacturers. Fabric quality is generally perceived through fabric hand value. Based on a series of laboratory experiments carried out to investigate total hand value and low-stress mechanical properties, this paper compares the impact of fusible interlining and printable interlining on woollen fabric using the Kawabata Evaluation System. Total hand value and five low-stress mechanical properties, tensile, bending, shearing, surface and compression were obtained. The results prove that printable interlinings can replace fusible interlinings on woollen fabrics and improve the fabric total hand value and bending, shearing and tensile properties. Printable interlining can be widely used in mass suit production with simple control process and it is cost-efficient.