Evaluation of the structural properties of plain fabrics woven from various fibers using Peirce’s model

Peirce’s fabric model has been widely used to predict the structural behavior of various plain woven fabrics. The structure of plain woven fabric can be defined in terms of the warp yarn number, weft yarn number, warp fabric density, weft fabric density, warp crimp, and weft crimp. The warp and weft yarn diameters are calculated from the warp and weft yarn numbers, and the effective coefficient of the yarn diameter is defined by using this model. We have investigated structural properties, such as the effective coefficient of the yarn diameter, yarn crimp, and fabric thickness for two different fabrics in which the constituent yarns are assumed to be either incompressible or compressible. This model is also applied to various plain fabrics woven from cotton, rayon, wool, linen, nylon, acetate, polyester, and silk yarns.     

Effect of weaving process on tensile characterization of single and multiple ends of air-entangled textured polyester yarns

The tensile properties of air-entangled textured polyester single and multiple yarn ends before and after weaving were analyzed. The effects of weaving process considering fabric unit cell interlacement and number of yarn ends were evaluated by regression model. For this purpose, plain, ribs and satin woven fabrics were produced. The yarns were raveled from fabrics, and the tensile tests were applied to these yarns. The developed regression model showed that the number of interlacement and crimp ratio on the warp and weft yarns influence their tensile strength. Tensile strength of raveled yarns decreased compared to that of the bobbin yarn due to the effect of weaving process. This property degradation on the ravel yarns considered process degradation. Generally, when the number of warp and weft yarn ends increases, the warp and weft yarn tensile strengths for each fabric type decrease, whereas the warp and weft yarn tensile elongations slightly increase. The results from regression model were compared with the measured values. This study confirmed that the method in the study can be a viable and reliable tool. The research finding could be useful those who work on preform fabrication.     

Selection of yarn for the predefined tensile strength of cotton woven fabrics

In order to meet the required strength of a fabric, selection of yarn is difficult because tensile strength of woven fabric depends upon a number of factors. Still, the manufacturers have to use hit and trial method in order to select the yarn for the required tensile strength of fabric. This study was carried out to develop regression equations for the prediction of yarn tensile strength suitable for the predefined strength of cotton woven fabrics. These equations were developed by using empirical data obtained from two hundred and thirty four fabric samples prepared under a systematic plan with different constructions. Prediction proficiency and precision of these regression equations were evaluated by correlation analysis of the predicted and actual warp and weft yarn strength values of another set of thirty six fabric samples. The results show a very strong prediction precision of the equations.     

Predicting bending rigidity of woven fabrics using artificial neural networks

This paper reports an investigation on the predictability of bending property of woven fabrics from their constructional parameters using artificial neural network (ANN) approach. Number of cotton grey fabrics made of plain and satin weave designs were desized, scoured, and relaxed. The fabrics were then conditioned and tested for bending properties. Thread density in fabric, yarn linear density, twist in yarn, and weave design were accounted as input parameters for the model whereas bending rigidity in warp and weft directions of fabric formed the outputs. Gradient descent with momentum and an adaptive learning rate back-propagation was employed as learning algorithm to train the network. A sensitivity analysis was carried out to study the robustness of the model.     

Analysis and off-axis tensile characterization of air-entangled textured polyester woven fabrics depending on unit cell interlacing frequency

The aim of this study is to analyze and determine the off-axis tensile properties of air-entangled textured polyester fabrics based on unit cell interlacing frequency. For this purpose, continuous filament polyester air-entangled textured yarn was used to produce plain, ribs and satin woven fabrics. The fabrics were cut from the warp direction (0°) to weft direction (90°) at every 15° increment, and tensile tests were applied to those of the off-axis samples. The strength and elongation results were introduced to the statistical model developed, and regression analyses were carried out. Hence, the effects of off-axis loading and interlacement on the directional tensile properties of the fabric were investigated. The regression model showed that off-axis loading influences fabric tensile strength. On the other hand, interlacement frequency is the most important factor for fabric tensile elongation. The results from the regression model were compared with the measured values. This study confirmed that the method used in this study as can be a viable and reliable tool. Future research will concentrate on multiaxially directional fabric and the probability that it will result in homogeneous in-plane fabric properties.     

Analysis and tensile characterization of air-entangled textured polyester woven fabrics depending on interlacement and yarn sets

The aim of this study was to understand the failure mechanism of two dimensional dry fabric structure considering yarn sets and interlacements. For this purpose, data generated on air-entangled textured polyester woven fabric under the simple tensile load and analyzed by developed regression model. The regression model showed that warp and weft directional tensile strengths of satin fabric were higher than those of plain and rib fabrics in unravel sample. This might be related to the number of interlacements of the fabrics. There was not a considerable difference between warp directional tensile strength of ravel and unravel satin fabrics, whereas weft directional tensile strength of ravel satin fabric decreased rapidly with respect to its unravel form. The satin fabric showed the highest warp directional tensile strength among the others. The lowest weft directional tensile strength was received from ribs fabric. In semi-ravel sample, all fabrics showed low warp and weft directional tensile strength values except in plain fabric. Warp directional tensile elongation of plain fabric was the highest in unravel sample. Satin fabric showed the highest warp directional tensile elongation in the ravel sample. Warp directional tensile elongations of all the fabrics in the semi-ravel sample became low. Weft directional tensile elongation of satin fabric was the highest in unravel sample. In addition, satin and plain fabrics showed the highest weft directional tensile elongations in the ravel sample. Weft directional tensile elongations of all the fabrics in the semi-ravel sample became low except in ribs fabric.     

Using artificial neural network to predict colour properties of laser-treated 100% cotton fabric

In this paper, artificial neural network (ANN) model was used for predicting colour properties of 100 % cotton fabrics, including colour yield (in terms of K/S value) and CIE L, a, and b values, under the influence of laser engraving process with various combination of laser processing parameters. Variables examined in the ANN model included fibre composition, fabric density (warp and weft direction), mass of fabric, fabric thickness and linear density of yarn (warp and weft direction). The ANN model was compared with a linear regression model where the ANN model produced superior results in prediction of colour properties of laser engraved 100 % cotton fabrics. The relative importance of the examined factors influencing colour properties was also investigated. The analysis revealed that laser processing parameters played an important role in affecting the colour properties of the treated 100 % cotton fabrics.     

Analysis and tensile-tear properties of abraded denim fabrics depending on pattern relations using statistical and artificial neural network models

The aim of this study is to develop new pattern denim fabrics and characterize the mechanical properties of these fabrics after abrasion load. Furthermore, tensile and tear strengths of these fabrics have been analysed by using the Artificial Neural Network (ANN) and statistical model. All denim fabrics were first abraded and subsequently tensile and tearing tests were applied to the abraided fabrics seperately. Actual data generated from the tests were analyzed by ANN and regression model. The regression model has shown that tensile strength properties of the abraded large structural pattern denim fabrics are generally low compared to that of the small structural pattern and traditional denim fabrics. On the other hand, when the abrasion cycles are increased tensile properties of all denim fabrics are generally decreased. Tearing strength of weft and warp in the abraded large structural pattern denim fabrics are between small structural pattern and traditional denim fabric. On the other hand, when the abrasion cycles are increased tearing strength properties in the weft and warp for all denim fabrics are generally decreased. The results from ANN and regression models were also compared with the measured values. It is concluded that almost all values from ANN are accurately predicted compared with those of the regression model. Therefore, we suggest that both methods can be used in this study as viable and reliable tools.     

Enhanced visualization of simulated woven fabrics

The woven fabric graphics designed with available computer aided design (CAD) systems using different colored warp and weft yarns look quite different from the appearance of their actual fabrics. To enhance the visual effects of designed woven fabric graphics, this paper reports a modified CAD woven fabric system, which allows users to design a fabric using parameters including fabric weaves, yarn number, yarn material, fabric count, crimp shape of interwoven yarns, and illumination. This enhanced system can design both yarns and fabrics, and consider the transitional color effect around interweaving points of warp and weft yarns. Its simulation image quality of woven fabrics has been greatly improved, and several textile mills and universities are currently using this woven fabric design system.     

Predicting the air permeability of polyester/cotton blended woven fabrics

The aim of this study was to model the air permeability of polyester cotton blended woven fabrics. Fabrics of varying construction parameters i.e. yarn linear densities and thread densities were selected and tested for air permeability, fabric areal density and fabric thickness. A total of 135 different fabric constructions were tested among which 117 were allocated for development of prediction model while the remaining were utilized for its validation. Four variables were selected as input parameters on basis of statistical analysis i.e. warp yarn linear density, weft yarn linear density, ends per 25 mm and picks per 25 mm. Response surface regression was applied on the collected data set in order to develop the prediction model of the selected variables. The model showed satisfactory predictability when applied on unseen data and yielded an absolute average error of 5.1 %. The developed model can be effectively used for prediction of air permeability of the woven fabrics.     

The effect of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness of polyester fabrics

The effects of fabric balance and fabric cover on surface roughness values of textured polyester woven fabrics with different constructional parameters were investigated. The warp yarn properties (type, count and warp density) were kept constant while the effect of variation in weft yarn density and weave pattern were studied. Measurements were conducted on pre-treated white fabric samples and the results assessed in relation to their constructional properties. A general overview of the results showed that surface roughness values of polyester fabrics affected by fabric balance and fabric cover and the effects were related to fabric thickness, yarn densities, yarn crimp, positioning of yarns in fabric structure. A change in weave pattern from sateen to plain increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased the surface roughness. Similarly, an increase in weft density increased the fabric balance and fabric cover, but decreased surface roughness. In order to produce fabrics with smooth surface properties yarn density should be increased, yarn float lengths decreased, cover of fabrics increased and fabric balance improved.     

A comparative study of finer conventional and modified cotton yarns and their resultant woven fabrics

A modified ring spinning technique has been recently developed by incorporating false twisting devices into the conventional ring frame. Its application on the coarser yarn counts (7–32 Ne) showed notable advantages in modified yarn and fabric performance. More recently, it was noted that this technique can also be applied for producing finer cotton yarns. Thus this paper aims to carry out a systematic study of the physical properties of the finer modified yarns (80 Ne) and woven fabrics with respect to the conventional ones. Physical properties of conventional and modified single yarns were evaluated and compared. These two types of single yarn were used for the production of woven fabrics. Moreover, the above two types of single yarn were also plied and used for the production of woven fabrics under a commercial condition. All woven fabrics were assessed in terms of fabric tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, fabric weight, and air-permeability as well as other fabric performance measured by the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES). Experimental results showed that finer modified yarns and fabrics exhibit higher strength, lower hairiness, and improved abrasion resistance, slightly better compression property, and smoother surface with relatively larger thickness.     

Handle,fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn woven stretch fabrics

Hybrid yarn was produced by twisting silk with nylon covered lycra yarn. Silk of 20 D in warp and hybrid yarn in weft was woven to develop lustrous woven stretch fabrics for sari blouse. Silk and hybrid yarn fabrics were produced in three different weaves namely plain, crepe and sateen. An in-depth study was carried out to understand the effect of weave on thermal comfort; low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties. Nine blouses (3 samples× 3 figures) were constructed from three different woven stretch materials for fit assessment and objective pressure comfort test. The effect of fabric weave, low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties on fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabrics were analyzed. Sateen weave silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabric shows higher total hand value, stretch properties and better thermal comfort properties. Sateen and crepe weave stretch fabrics provided good fit. Sateen weave fabric exerted lower clothing pressure value in the range of 3-12 mmHg at all body locations in standing position and in different postures.     

Assessing the relationship among fabric constructional parameters, fractional reflectances and cover factors of polyester fabrics by experimental and mathematical methods

This paper focuses on the assessment of the relation among constructional properties, fractional reflectances and cover factors of fabrics woven from polyester yarns. A novel equation for the calculation of the relation between fractional reflectance and fabric cover factor was proposed and the usage of the equation was assessed by reflectance measurements. 48 polyester fabrics having different constructional parameters were used and the fabrics differed from each other by their cover factors. The warp yarn type and count, warp density and warp yarn twist were the same but weft yarn count, weft yarn fiber count and weft density were different for the fabrics in the experimental sub-groups. The reflectance measurements were conducted on the pretreated but undyed fabric samples as well as on the individual yarn systems of the same fabrics. Fabrics with the same cover factors exhibited different fractional reflectances. Reflectances were found to be dependent on the cover factor as well as on yarn fiber fineness, yarn count, yarn density and fabric weave. The changes in crimp of the yarns according to different construction parameters also governed the changes in fractional reflectances of fabric surfaces. The proposed equation was tested according to different fabric construction parameters and it was concluded that fiber fineness and weave pattern were among the most important parameters which govern the total light reflectances from the fabric surfaces, although they are not incorporated in the calculation of the fabric cover factors. The proposed equation was used to explain the effects of these components on the reflectance behavior of the fabric surfaces and on fabric cover.     

Modelling tearing behavior of durable press finished woven fabric

Tearing strength is one of the most important and critical properties related to durable press finished cotton woven fabric. In the past, modelling of tearing strength of cotton woven fabrics was based on untreated cotton woven fabric but not in durable pressed finished fabric. In this paper, a mathematical model was established to demonstrate the tearing strength mechanism of durable press finished cotton woven fabrics by dimensional analysis based on yarn diameter, cover factor, Young’s modulus and fabric elongation. The proposed model agreed well with experimental results and the proposed model can be used for optimizing durable press finishing process of cotton woven fabric.     

Reflectance prediction of colored polyester fabrics by a novel formula

This paper focuses on the reflectance prediction of colored (unicolored) fabrics considering relationship between fractional reflectance values and cover factors of fabrics woven from polyester yarns. A novel equation for the calculation of relation between fractional reflectance and cover factor was proposed and usage of the equation was assessed by reflectance measurements. 48 dyed polyester fabrics having different constructional parameters were used and fabrics differed from each other by their cover factors. Warp yarn type and count, warp density and warp yarn twist were the same but weft yarn count, weft yarn fiber count and weft density were different for the fabrics in experimental sub-groups. The reflectance measurements were conducted on the dyed fabric samples as well as on the individual yarn systems (warp and weft) of the same fabrics. The proposed equation was tested according to different fabric constructional parameters and reasonable results with the experimental data were obtained. The possibilities of general use of derived mathematical relations between theoretical and measured reflectance values were researched. The relation obtained was used to explain the effects of different constructional parameters on reflectance behavior of fabric surfaces.     

Predicting tensile strength of yarns required for producing PET/Cotton blended woven fabrics of a pre-defined tensile strength

This study was aimed at developing statistical models for the prediction of tensile strength of warp and weft yarns required for attaining a pre-defined strength of PET/Cotton blended woven fabrics. The models were developed based on the empirical data obtained from carefully developed 234 fabric samples with different constructions using 15, 20, and 25 tex yarns in warp and weft directions. The prediction ability and accuracy of the developed models were assessed by correlation analyses of the predicted and actual warp and weft yarn strength values of another set of 36 fabric samples. The analyses showed a very strong ability and accuracy of the developed statistical prediction models.     

Effects of sample dimensions on pull-out properties of woven fabric structures

The aim of this study was to understand the effects of fabric sample dimensions on pull-out properties of fabric weaves. Polyester woven fabrics were used to conduct the pull-out tests. A yarn pull-out fixture was developed and data generated from this research. Yarn pull-out forces depend on sample dimensions, fabric density, fabric weave, and number of pulled ends in the fabric. Results showed that multiple and single yarn pull-out forces of long samples were higher than those of short samples, and the multiple yarn pull-out force was higher than that of the single yarn pull-out force, and dense fabric has high pull-out force. Plain fabric weave showed high single and multiple pull-out forces compared to ribs and satin fabric weaves. The regression model could be used in this study as a viable and reliable tool. This research could be valuable for development of multifunctional fabrics in technical textile applications.     

Mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for emotional garment to the rapier loom characteristics

This study examined the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics woven using various rapier weaving looms. For this purpose, the warp and weft yarn tensions during weaving were measured on the three types of rapier looms, and the fabric mechanical property changes due to the warp and weft tension differences were measured and analyzed according to the fabric position and particular rapier loom using the KES-FB system. The warp tension variation along the loom width direction in P-GTX loom showed the lowest value compared to FAST and THEMA looms. The warp tensions on the central part of the three types of looms were much higher than those on the left and right sides of the looms. The extensibility and bending rigidity of the fabric woven by P-GTX rapier loom showed lower values than those of FAST and THEMA looms, which appears to have originated from the low warp and weft weaving tensions of P-GTX rapier loom. On the other hand, the compressional property and shear modulus showed compromised results due to lateral deformation by compression and constraint deformation of the warp and weft by shear. The friction coefficient of the fabric surface woven by FAST loom showed the lowest value due to the flatter surface by the high warp tension. The mechanical properties of the fabric loaded by a high warp tension on the central part of the loom were also affected by the high weft yarn crimp due to the wider spacing between warp yarns by the higher warp tension during weaving, which makes the surface of the central part of the fabric flatter and smoother than the edge part of the fabric.     

Taguchi analysis of fabric shrinkage

This article reports on the effects of fabric constructional factors such as fabric sett, warp tension, back rest position, and pick insertion rate, on the warp-way and weft-way shrinkages of a three-up-one-down twill woven fabric using a Taguchi design of experiments. It was observed that the fabric shrinkage in the warp direction was mostly affected by the change in the number of picks per inch, followed by warp tension, number of ends per inch, number of picks per minute, and back rest position, respectively. The fabric shrinkage in the weft direction was found to be mostly affected by the change in number of ends per inch, followed by number of picks per inch, back rest position, number of picks per minute, respectively and least affected by warp tension. It was observed that the aforesaid five factors were able to explain 99.02 % and 82.81 % of the total variation of fabric shrinkage in the warp and weft directions, respectively.